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[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]] | [[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]] | ||
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| + | '''<big>Clogherhead.</big>''' | ||
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| + | '''APPROACH.''' From the main street in Clogherhead village take the road signposted for Port Oriel Harbour and park at the top of the large public car park directly above the Harbour. Cross the stile in the wall and drop down to cross the wooden stile at the foot of the fence to join the grassy path. Continue along it, moving parallel to the coast, until you come to a fence (5 minutes). | ||
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| + | '''NORTH BUTTRESS.''' This is located about 20 m before the fence, below the foot of an earthen bank running down the hillside, and is reached by scrambling back N from near the bottom of the fence, to the foot of the buttress. Low to half tide only. (The slab to the R of the buttress is peppered with holds, providing pleasant scrambling), All climbs are described from R to L, facing the rock. All climbs start at sea level, best at low to middle tide. | ||
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| + | '''Winchy, winchy Spider.''' VS4c The R hand rib is the broadest one. From the top of the rib cross a gap and climb the short head-wall near the R edge. Belay well back. S.Daly. G.Moss. 23/6/25 '''No Flies on Me.''' HS4b The rib just L of above is the shortest one. From the top of the rib step across R and move up over a gap to climb the short head-wall near its centre. S.Daly, G.Moss 23/6/25 '''Babóg na Bealtaine.''' V.D. There are two shallow chimneys on the buttress. This climb follows the R-hand one. G. Moss 15/05/25 '''Walk into my parlour'''. VS4c. The rib immediately L of BnaB. S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25. '''Web of Intrigue'''. HVS5a. The L-hand rib. S. Daly, G.Moss 18/6/25 | ||
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| + | '''<big>THE MAIN BUTTRESS, R-hand side.</big>''' Descend via the grassy slope and rocks on the L (facing out) or, more easily, abseil. It is possible to scramble down from the bottom of the fence and traverse around to the foot of the R-hand side of the buttress but the lower rocks can be greasy after a high tide and in such case an abseil approach is preferable (go through a gap in the fence at the warning sign and follow a narrow path down to locate a suitable abseil point). | ||
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| + | '''Auld Lang Syne.''' V. Diff. The obvious crack on the R edge of the buttress. Climb the crack and move steeply up L, on biscuit coloured rock, at the top C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24. '''Ring in the New'''. Severe. The shallow corner immediately L of above. Spaced protection. C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24. '''No country for old men.''' HVS5a. 3m L of Ring in the New. A steep start leads to sustained climbing. S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25. '''Fiacail Forais''' V. Diff. Start 2m further L below and L of an obvious hanging rock tooth 3 meters above. Climb to a thread anchor around a flat block. G. Moss 19/3/25. '''Lú Lámh Fháda.''' V.Diff Start just L of Fiacail Forais below the L edge. Follow the edge to a thread anchor around a flat block. G. Moss 19/3/25. '''Habemus Papam.''' Severe Start at the bottom R of the deep dark recess just L of LLF. Climb the narrow ramp on the R side of the recess, difficulties increasing with height. G. Moss 8/5/25. '''Dubh Dorcha''' V. Diff. Start immediately L of HP. Climb straight up to a block belay. G. Moss 18/4/25. '''Tir na nÓg.''' HVS5a Start at the bottom L of the dark recess. Move up a short subsidiary slab until it is possible to pull across L to gain the bottom of the steep, narrow slab. Follow this, with interest, to the top. S. Daly, G. Moss. 23/6/25. | ||
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| + | <big>MAIN BUTTRESS L-hand side.</big> Access to this section, which is to the L of the dark recess, is easiest by abseil. | ||
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| + | '''Eitre Éasca''' Diff. Abseil down the obvious shallow chimney 4m S of the dark recess, to a ledge above the high tide mark. Move 4m R and climb on good holds to the foot of a groove at 4m. Follow the groove to the top. C. McGovern, G. Moss 4/5/25. '''Alternative Arete.''' VS4c . Abseil down the obvious shallow chimney 4m S of the dark recess and move 2m R along a ledge above the high tide mark. Climb on good holds to a large ledge. Climb the steep arete on the R. S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25. '''Trasna na dTonnta.''' V. diff. Abseil as for above to the foot of the shallow chimney with a small overhang at 4m. Climb the chimney. G. Moss 18/4/25 | ||
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| + | '''THE SOUTHERN SECTION.''' This area is about 70 m south of the main buttress, beyond a jumble of boulders and short slabs.. Two pointed, conical slabs feature prominently and the tops of these can be clearly seen from the main buttress. '''Approach.''' Follow the path from the car park for just under 10 minutes, to a section of wooden fencing on the L, topped by barbed wire. Cross here and go down, veering L, over steep grass and rock to where there are two obvious, steep, conical slabs. The most southerly of the two has a rusty bolted lower off on top but we could find no record of an ascent on the wiki or on UKC, so the slab may have been top-roped. The slabs and climbs on this section are described from L to R, moving back N. '''Time nor Tide.''' E1 5b. 4m L of the bolted slab there is a short, steep, wide slab. This climb follows a line just R of the L edge. S. Daly, G. Moss. 16/7/25. '''Seóltaí Geala''' . M Severe. The crack running up the L side of the bolted slab. Start from a sloping ledge below the slab, low to half-tide only. The crux being the last couple of moves. Most likely climbed before. First recorded ascent G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25. (Sile eyed up the thin, central crack but an incoming tide foiled any attempt.) '''Fumata Bianca.''' V. Diff. Climb the shallow corner between the two conical slabs. G. Moss. 8/5/25. '''Lá Breithe''' V. Diff. Climb the seaward face of the pointed buttress 15m N of the conical slabs. G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25 | ||
==Co. Mayo== | ==Co. Mayo== | ||
Revision as of 17:39, 2 October 2025
IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:
http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html
Introduction
There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:
Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)
Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and we'll forward on any info received to the relevant guidebook editors.
Alternatively just email the info to newroutes@climbing.ie
Crag List
Co. Antrim
Dunseverick (Colmcille Climbers)
Ramore Head (Colmcille Climbers)
Runkerry (Colmcille Climbers)
Co. Armagh
Co. Carlow
Co. Cavan
Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta
Co. Clare
Croagh North/Rathborney Valley
Co. Cork
Co. Derry
Co. Donegal
Another Donegal Online Guidebook
Donegal PDF guidebook downloads
The 35 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.
Co Donegal (North)
Inishowen guidebook download Inishowen Film
Cnoc an Aifreann guidebook download
An Mhucais guidebook download Muckish Mountain Film
Co Donegal (western)
Gaoth Dodhair guidebook download
Mám an Leaca guidebook download
Poisoned Glen guidebook download
Gleann Bheatha guidebook download Glenveagh Film
Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara guidebook download Bingorms Film Tarquinn's Groove Film
Cró Bheithe guidebook download
Cionn Caslach guidebook download
Ceann na Cruaiche guidebook download Crohy Head Film
Winter Climbs guidebook download Muckish Winter Climbing Film
Co Donegal (Islands)
inis Oirthir guidebook download
Iompainn guidebook download Umphin Film
Tor Úi Arragáin guidebook download Tororragaun Film
Inis Oileantraigh guidebook download
An Cruit guidebook download Cruit Island Film
Uaigh guidebook download Owey Island Film
Árainn Mhór guidebook download Arranmore island Film
Rathlin O Birne Island guidebook download
Donegal Deep Water Soloing guidebook download Deep Water Soloing Film
Co Donegal (South West)
Glenlough Bay guidebook download Glenlough Bay Film
Donegal Sea Stack guidebook download Sea Stack Climbing Film
Glencolmcille guidebook download Skelpoonagh Film
Sail rock guidebook download Sail Rock Film
Muckross Head guidebook download
Eglish Valley guidebook download
Lough Belshade guidebook download
Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)
Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe
Co. Down
Moor Hill Quarry - Access Banned - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.
Co. Dublin
Co. Fermanagh
Co. Galway
Co. Kerry
Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula
Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head
An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island
Other
Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island
Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island
The Black Cliff, Valencia Island
Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil
Co. Kildare
Co. Kilkenny
Co. Laois
Co. Leitrim
Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta
Co. Limerick
Co. Longford
Co. Louth
Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest
Clogherhead.
APPROACH. From the main street in Clogherhead village take the road signposted for Port Oriel Harbour and park at the top of the large public car park directly above the Harbour. Cross the stile in the wall and drop down to cross the wooden stile at the foot of the fence to join the grassy path. Continue along it, moving parallel to the coast, until you come to a fence (5 minutes).
NORTH BUTTRESS. This is located about 20 m before the fence, below the foot of an earthen bank running down the hillside, and is reached by scrambling back N from near the bottom of the fence, to the foot of the buttress. Low to half tide only. (The slab to the R of the buttress is peppered with holds, providing pleasant scrambling), All climbs are described from R to L, facing the rock. All climbs start at sea level, best at low to middle tide.
Winchy, winchy Spider. VS4c The R hand rib is the broadest one. From the top of the rib cross a gap and climb the short head-wall near the R edge. Belay well back. S.Daly. G.Moss. 23/6/25 No Flies on Me. HS4b The rib just L of above is the shortest one. From the top of the rib step across R and move up over a gap to climb the short head-wall near its centre. S.Daly, G.Moss 23/6/25 Babóg na Bealtaine. V.D. There are two shallow chimneys on the buttress. This climb follows the R-hand one. G. Moss 15/05/25 Walk into my parlour. VS4c. The rib immediately L of BnaB. S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25. Web of Intrigue. HVS5a. The L-hand rib. S. Daly, G.Moss 18/6/25
THE MAIN BUTTRESS, R-hand side. Descend via the grassy slope and rocks on the L (facing out) or, more easily, abseil. It is possible to scramble down from the bottom of the fence and traverse around to the foot of the R-hand side of the buttress but the lower rocks can be greasy after a high tide and in such case an abseil approach is preferable (go through a gap in the fence at the warning sign and follow a narrow path down to locate a suitable abseil point).
Auld Lang Syne. V. Diff. The obvious crack on the R edge of the buttress. Climb the crack and move steeply up L, on biscuit coloured rock, at the top C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24. Ring in the New. Severe. The shallow corner immediately L of above. Spaced protection. C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24. No country for old men. HVS5a. 3m L of Ring in the New. A steep start leads to sustained climbing. S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25. Fiacail Forais V. Diff. Start 2m further L below and L of an obvious hanging rock tooth 3 meters above. Climb to a thread anchor around a flat block. G. Moss 19/3/25. Lú Lámh Fháda. V.Diff Start just L of Fiacail Forais below the L edge. Follow the edge to a thread anchor around a flat block. G. Moss 19/3/25. Habemus Papam. Severe Start at the bottom R of the deep dark recess just L of LLF. Climb the narrow ramp on the R side of the recess, difficulties increasing with height. G. Moss 8/5/25. Dubh Dorcha V. Diff. Start immediately L of HP. Climb straight up to a block belay. G. Moss 18/4/25. Tir na nÓg. HVS5a Start at the bottom L of the dark recess. Move up a short subsidiary slab until it is possible to pull across L to gain the bottom of the steep, narrow slab. Follow this, with interest, to the top. S. Daly, G. Moss. 23/6/25.
MAIN BUTTRESS L-hand side. Access to this section, which is to the L of the dark recess, is easiest by abseil.
Eitre Éasca Diff. Abseil down the obvious shallow chimney 4m S of the dark recess, to a ledge above the high tide mark. Move 4m R and climb on good holds to the foot of a groove at 4m. Follow the groove to the top. C. McGovern, G. Moss 4/5/25. Alternative Arete. VS4c . Abseil down the obvious shallow chimney 4m S of the dark recess and move 2m R along a ledge above the high tide mark. Climb on good holds to a large ledge. Climb the steep arete on the R. S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25. Trasna na dTonnta. V. diff. Abseil as for above to the foot of the shallow chimney with a small overhang at 4m. Climb the chimney. G. Moss 18/4/25
THE SOUTHERN SECTION. This area is about 70 m south of the main buttress, beyond a jumble of boulders and short slabs.. Two pointed, conical slabs feature prominently and the tops of these can be clearly seen from the main buttress. Approach. Follow the path from the car park for just under 10 minutes, to a section of wooden fencing on the L, topped by barbed wire. Cross here and go down, veering L, over steep grass and rock to where there are two obvious, steep, conical slabs. The most southerly of the two has a rusty bolted lower off on top but we could find no record of an ascent on the wiki or on UKC, so the slab may have been top-roped. The slabs and climbs on this section are described from L to R, moving back N. Time nor Tide. E1 5b. 4m L of the bolted slab there is a short, steep, wide slab. This climb follows a line just R of the L edge. S. Daly, G. Moss. 16/7/25. Seóltaí Geala . M Severe. The crack running up the L side of the bolted slab. Start from a sloping ledge below the slab, low to half-tide only. The crux being the last couple of moves. Most likely climbed before. First recorded ascent G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25. (Sile eyed up the thin, central crack but an incoming tide foiled any attempt.) Fumata Bianca. V. Diff. Climb the shallow corner between the two conical slabs. G. Moss. 8/5/25. Lá Breithe V. Diff. Climb the seaward face of the pointed buttress 15m N of the conical slabs. G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25
Co. Mayo
Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach
Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group
Co. Meath
Co. Monaghan
Co. Offaly
Co. Roscommon
Co. Sligo
Co. Tipperary
Co. Tyrone
Co. Waterford
Co. Westmeath
Co. Wexford
Co. Wicklow
Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing
