Eagle Rocks
J355284 At a height of nearly 600m above sea level with a generally northerly aspect, Eagle Rocks is not one of the most frequented of Mourne Crags. However this unpopularity is unjustified as the routes themselves are invariably on good steep sound granite although care is needed at the top of the Upper Cliffs in scrambling off past the steep boulderfield. Also the afternoon sun does warm the crag most of the year and the setting has a certain grandness high on the side of Donard overlooking Newcastle and the sea beyond. Although mostly short there are a number of quality routes, of all grades, and the crag is well worth a visit.
Approach to the crag is from Donard car park (374385) in Newcastle following the Glen River Track through Donard Forest. Leave the forest just below the old Donard Lodge Ice House and follow the main river path to the first major bend just before the forest stops to the right of the path. Cross the Glen River here and strike directly up towards the crag. The worst of the boulderfield below the crag can be avoided by gaining height by following the grass on the left and then traversing in right to the base of the Lower Cliffs.
The cliff is divided into -
THE LOWER CLIFFS - The small crag lying to the north-east and below the main or Upper Cliffs. Though short they have a number of worthwhile routes, are usually better sheltered from the wind, and are not cursed with the top layer of tottering blocks as are sections of the Upper Cliffs. Descent is easily achieved down either side of the crag.
THE UPPER CLIFFS These form a band of crags running from the north-west facing shoulder of Slieve Donard south-west for around 200m. At the left end good rock (including the Green Wall) gradually emerges from broken ground, soon to be split by Raven's Gully. To the right of this is the fine wall of Diamond Buttress and to the right again the broken ground of Jupiter Gully followed by Jupiter Wall, the most continuous section of clean rock on the crag. To the right again is more broken ground split only by two small pillars of good rock (Comet Buttress and West Arete Buttress) and then the crag finishes with Dagger Buttress.
Descents from the Upper Cliffs are either by careful negotiation of broken ground well to the left of the crag, or by a shallow gully to the right of The Dagger. In both cases there is usually a need to scramble up broken ground well above the top of the route before starting to traverse off, and extreme care should be taken in this area to avoid dislodging any of the piles of precariously balanced blocks.
GROOVED BUTTRESS - A small crag lying below West Arete at the right-hand end of the Upper Cliffs, characterised by three left-facing broad grooves. Descent is easily achieved down either side.
THE LOWER CLIFFS
The left-hand side of the lower cliffs has a short steep wall and to the left of this is a broken corner crack taken by Windy Crack 15m VD (A. McQuoid, D. Gamble. 9/4/78.) This marks the left-hand end of the first continuous area of rock on the cliff. In the middle of this area of rock is a blocky face which gives the line of Precipitation and forms the right edge of the short steep wall. The routes on this wall are described from left to right.
The Leech ** 15m E5 6b/c
L. Brown, C. Moore. 28/2/65. First free ascent E. Cooper, J. Suffern, 20/7/2005
An old aid route put up in 1965. Starts 2m left of The Thieving Magpieand follows the narrow crack on the left-hand end of the short steep wall.
The Thieving Magpie 20m E2 5c
E. Cooper, T. Cooper. 17/5/85.
Although short if this route was a film it would be a PG rating for seriousness. Start - 2m right of The Leech. Climb on the right of two thin cracks and up the wall above with increasing difficulty. Continue up the slab above to the top.
No Guts No Glory 30m VS 4c
P. Holmes, G. Murray. 21/7/85.
Start - 2m left of Precipitation. Climb the corner and continue up crack to the top.
Precipitation * 34m VS 4b
I. Brown, C. Moore. 26/9/64.
Quite strenuous and well protected. Start - at the right edge and follow the steep blocky face mentioned above. Either follow the edge, moving left and up blocks or directly up blocks to crack splitting the overhanging lip. Climb this (crux) and onto slab above. Follow this more easily to belay on the big corner ledge. Follow Piton Crack by finishing variations 1-4 or traverse off to the left.
Right and behind the blocky face of Precipitation is the distinct corner of Rowan Tree. The smooth left wall of Rowan Tree corner is split by the obvious deep crack of Piton Crack. Below are slabs leading to the foot of this wall.
Bit Par 28m E1 5b
I. Rea, G. Murray. 17/10/85.
The route takes the wall and flake immediately right round the corner from Precipitation and just left of the crack of Piton Crack. High runner used in Piton Crack on first ascent. Finish as for Precipitation and Piton Crack.
Piton Crack * 33m S 4a)
M. McMurray, W. B. Gibson. 9/50.
An interesting and varied climb but 'The Hell and Damnation Crux' is nowadays perhaps overstated - or is it? Start at the base of the previously mentioned slabs leading to the foot of the wall split by the deep crack.
1) 15m Follow the left of the slabs to the foot of the corner of Rowan Tree (avoidable).
2) 18m Traverse left to the deep crack splitting the wall. Climb the crack (crux) to exit on the slab above. Move left to an obvious crack, up this and scramble to a large ledge around a right-angled corner of the rock and belay. Careful arrangement of protection is required to protect the second.
3) From this ledge which is about 10m below the top of the crag it is a simple scramble off to the left. However there are a number of more interesting but short possibilities - a) (4b) The deep vertical gash at the left end of the back wall. b) (4c/5a) The back corner, moving in from the left. c) (4c/5a) The crack splitting the right-hand wall. d) (4a) Step right round the front of the ledge to a smaller corner and follow it to the top.
Decadent Days 18m E1 5b
G. Murray, I. Rea. 17/10/85.
A short eliminate but a thoughtful crux. The route climbs the steep wall and faint groove between the crux crack on Piton Crack and the corner of Rowan Tree. Finish as for Piton Crack.
Rowan Tree 30m VD
R. R. Johnston, B. Blakie. 21/9/47.
Start - as for Piton Crack, taking the slab to the foot of the corner diedre at the left end of the back wall. Up corner to grassy ledge, then wide curving crack on the right to the top. Alternative finish up the shorter crack above. Variation finishes as for Piton Crack from the corner ledge.
Resonant Flakes ** 35m VD
A fine route which follows the cracked wall right of Rowan Tree. Start - at the bottom of the clean slab tongue below the middle of the back wall.
1) 15m Up slab tongue moving from bottom right to top left and reach large grass ledge below the cracked wall.
2) 20m From bottom left of the wall climb up and right across the hollow-sounding flakes to corner. Up this to large corner ledge and belay. Variation finishes as for Piton Crack.
Puppet 39m S 3c, 4a
T. Hawkins, M. Hawkins, D. Murray. 4/67.
Start - as for Resonant Flakes.
1) 15m As for Resonant Flakes Pitch 1.
2) 24m From the belay, move 5m right to base of a short slab. Up this to block, then up crack above to small overhang. Move up and right past this onto slab and follow crack to base of wall above. Move left into crack which is followed to spike. Follow crack above to top or take easier and usually drier variation on the right.
Z Route Direct * 38m S 4a
M. McMurray, B. Blakie. 4/49. (Original Route).
The right-hand end of the wall has a fine spillikin past which runs a good crack. The original Z Route wound its way about this and the broken rocks on the right. This more direct line however gives good continuous climbing. Start - at a steep crack directly below the spillikin Climb the crack and gain the left-hand side of the spillikin. Surmount the spillikin and step into the crack above. Continue on straight up cracks above to the top.
THE UPPER CLIFFS
The left end of the Upper Cliffs, where they gradually emerge from broken ground, is characterised by The Green Wall. To the right of this a series of generally broken ribs and rocky bays lead across to the left edge of Raven's Gully taken by Stratocumulus. A few routes belie the general appearance and give good climbing.
A Bit on the Side 22m S 4a
J. Forsythe, A. McDonald, M. Mills. 29/5/77.
Start - 3m right of the Green Wall at a shallow but regular diedre. Climb the diedre on decreasing holds, pulling right at the top.
Muffled Oaths 19m S 3c
J. Forsythe, R. Cole. 9/7/78.
Start - 5m right of the Green Wall, at mid height on the cliff is a grass ledge from which two diedres lead upwards. Climb to the ledge and take the left-hand, cleaner diedre.
Arete Oriental 27m S 3c
D. Sloan, P. Gribbon. 21/5/54.
Start - to the right of the grassy bay with Muffled Oaths is a square stepped rib of rock. Climb up onto this rib on its left-hand side and finish up to the right above.
Joy 27m S 3c
C. Moore, B. Blakie. 5/3/66.
Start - 4m right of Arete Oriental below a diedre on the skyline. Climb ledges and mantelshelf into the diedre. Up this with more mantelshelves to the top.
Two routes, Ark 27m S (C. Moore, W. Jenkins. 5/65.) and Left Incline 18m S. (C. Moore, W. Jenkins. 28/5/66.) are claimed in the broken and crumbling rock and vegetation between Joy and Double X but are not worthy of attention.
Double X * 36m S 4a
I. Brown, H. Porter, B. McCormick. 28/6/64.
Deceptive but is a genuinely good route. Start - below a cracked corner and rib immediately left of the rocky bay which lies left of the mouth of Raven's Gully. Mantelshelf to a ledge and gain the crack/corner in the rib. Follow this for a few metres and then move right onto a wall and up to ledge. Up and then right on easier ground to the top.
The Trap 37m VD
R. R. Johnston, G. Maxwell. 21/9/47
Due to an oversight the word 'death' is missing from the route's name. Start - the rocky bay left of the mouth of Raven's Gully and Stratocumulus. Climb up blocks, moving left across the rocky bay to a vegetated rock scoop. Climb the shallow chimney (Maxwell's Gully) on the right to the top. Alternatively wimp out up the corner on the left.
Stratocumulus * 40m HS 4b
G. Earnshaw, C. Moore. 7/6/64.
Start - route takes the projecting square-cut buttress forming the left edge of Raven's Gully. Climb easy rock to the obvious crack splitting the buttress. Climb this, crux at square-cut overlap, to easier rock and the top of Chimney Wall. 20m of scrambling back to the top of the crag.
Parade * 25m HS 4a
C. Moore and Party. 19/9/64.
Start - on the left wall of Raven's Gully, 3m right of Stratocumulus. Climb up to diedre 3m from the ground, and up left wall of this to join top of Stratocumulus.
Rolling Thunder 25m HVS 5a
S. McIlwaine, B. Stewart, P. Murray (One rest point). 6/8/85. I. Rea (First free ascent). 17/10/85
Start - to the right of Parade at the flat, slash-marked wall. Climb the wall starting from the right-hand side and trending towards the middle.
Incandescent Blue 23m VS 4c
G. Murray, A. Carden, 1/5/85.
Start - 2m left of Chimney Wall. Climb the wall to thin crack. Up this with awkward mantelshelf to top.
Chimney Wall * 18m D
M. McMurray. 4/48.
Start - at a well broken fault line near the farthest corner of the left wall of Raven's Gully. Climb this on large holds to a rocky crest. Move right to the top of Raven's Gully to finish.
Raven's Gully Route 20m D
F. Martin. 15/3/36.
Climb the back wall of the gully which is usually wet.
Lichen * 21m HS 4b
J. Brown, F. Devlin. 21/9/63.
Start - at the back wall of the gully at a corner just right of Raven's Gully Route. Climb the left facing diedre to a ledge. Continue up the diedre above to an exit left to a large block belay.
Raven's Nest * 21m HS 4b
R. R. Johnston, R. Galway, D. McKee. 5/6/49.
Start - to the right of Lichen are a pair of steep cracks gradually tapering closer as they reach the top of the crag Follow the left-hand crack past a small cave under the bulging nose and on up the crack to the 'Nest' - the ledge above. Finish up the two cracks above to the top. The right-hand crack can be followed to give an easier start to the small cave, but a harder variation past the nose to the 'Nest'.
Late Opening * 25m VS 5a
L. Griffin, R. Merrick (One aid point). 11/5/71. P. Clerkin (First free ascent). /84.
Start - below and to the right of Raven's Nest, and just before the right edge of the gully, below a groove. Climb the break in the slab rightwards to a ledge at 5m, then straight up the slab to the bottom of the groove. Move up and step left (crux) out of the groove to ledge on the left and finish on wall just right of the top of Raven's Nest.
Raven Lunatic 30m HVS 5a
A. Carden, B. McBurney. 26/6/81.
Start - at the foot of the right edge of Raven's Gully, just right of Late Opening, below and slightly left of the undercut arete. Climb up blocks (take care, some are loose) to reach slab, trend rightwards across this to corner at right of the undercut arete. Step up and left onto the arete and up this to top.
An earlier route by Calvert Moore circa 65, called Determination, started up the diedre but broke left, below the crux, to finish on the upper section of the arete taken by Raven Lunatic.
The crag between Raven's Gully and Jupiter Gully is known as Diamond Buttress, containing the next 8 routes.
Determinate * 27m VS 4c
L. Griffin, R. Merrick. 11/5/71.
Good climbing marred by the green veneer. Start - to the right of the undercut arete of Raven Lunatic is a deep diedre followed by a smooth wall split by the crack of Big Wig. Determinate takes this diedre. Climb crack and chimney to a ledge at the foot of the diedre. Continue up this and pull out left at top onto slab (crux).
Big Wig ** 30m E2 5c
C. Moore, D. Dick (As original aid route Financial Deficit) November 1963,
M. Smith, R. Cole (First free ascent). Circa/80.
The route climbs the thin crack up the smooth wall to the right of Determinate.
4th Generation Youth E2 5c **
Paul Swail and Stephen Ferris, 12/05/2005.
Takes a line between Big Wig and No Quarter. Excellent fingery climbing with good protection. Climb Big Wig for 2m. Break right immediately to climb broken wall. Climb on positive crimps and sidepulls to top. Make tricky moves and exit via V-groove.
No Quarter * 24m E1 5b)
S. McIlwaine, B. Stewart (One Rest Point). 9/7/86.
I. Rea, P. Holmes (First free ascent).
6/88. Start - at the bottom of the right-trending ramp, just right of Big Wig, also shared with Severed Finger. Up ramp to big ledge then move left onto main wall and curving flake (crux). Continue up flake to top.
Severed Finger 28m VS 4c
R. Cole, M, Smith. /79.
Interesting climbing with doubt provoking blocks (but seem sound) on the steep finishing wall. Start - as for No Quarter at the right-trending ramp, right of Big Wig. Climb the ramp until it goes blank at half height, swing right onto arete and up to big ledge. Climb the steep juggy wall above to the top.
Variation Justin Time 30m VS 4c D. Stelfox, J. Caves, J. Peer. 14/8/83. A right-hand start to Severed Finger taking the left-facing corner of the pillar containing Flake Crack and gives an entertaining combination. Start - below and to the right of Severed Finger in the left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a ledge joining Severed Finger and finish up this.
Flake Crack * 27m VS 4a, 4c
F. Winder, D. Sloan. 17/7/54.
Can easily be done in a single pitch. Short but tricky enough crux. Start - at the crack in the centre of the projecting pillar about the middle of Diamond Buttress with an undercut nose on its right-hand side.
1 18m Climb the steep crack and flakes to reach an airy stance.
2 9m Climb the shallow chimney above to the top (crux). The corner of Mercy Street gives an alternative first pitch to gain the airy belay. This gives a fine route of a more even standard and raises the grade to HVS (5a, 4c) *.
Bismuth 36m HS 4a, 4b
G. Earnshaw, B. Owens. 3/62.
Start - as for Flake Crack.
1 18m As for Flake Crack Pitch 1.
2 18m Traverse up and right under the huge overhang to its right end. Poor finish up loose rock to the top. An independent and direct start has been climbed on the broken rocks right of Mercy Street directly below the overhang, but is no improvement over the original route.
Mercy Street * 30m E2 6a
S. Mcllwaine, B. Stewart. 14/6/86.
Start - 5m right and above start of Flake Crack at the bottom of a short ramp. Climb ramp until possible to move up past bottom overhang. Continue up corner to a step left onto to face and gain top of pillar (as for Flake Crack belay Pitch 1). Climb the small headwall above on thin holds (crux).
What's the Story? 20m E1 5b ***
C.Hiller, R.Bell, A.Marshall 20/4/07
A fun route with juggy climbing in an awesome setting. Start 2m right of Mercy Street below two overhangs. Climb up generous flakes to a stance below the first overhang. Continue through it to gain a rest on the slab below the final overhang and place protection. Make a blind move and feel your way over the lip (crux) and high step onto the slab above. Continue to belay with care.
The grassy groove to the right is known as Jupiter Gully and the crag to the right of this is Jupiter Wall.
Two poor routes The Cure 45m VS 4c) (C. Moore, I. Brown. 11/9/65) and Sorrow 18m S (C. Moore, B. Black. 5/3/66.) follow the grass of Jupiter Gully and head rightwards to a cave and then the top but have been superseded by the following route -
S.T.D. 22m HVS 5a
A. Carden, R. Caves, T. McClatchey. 30/5/81.
A 'delightful' route for the wide crack connoisseur only enhanced by the vegetation. Start - first clean crack right of Jupiter Gully. Climb up to small overhang at 5m. Through overhang to flake on left of crack than back into crack and up to grass ledge. Continue more easily up wide groove and on to top on good holds.
Ding-a-Ling 27m HVS 5a
M. Smith, A. Devlin, W. Holmes. 22/8/82.
Start - takes the crack between S.T.D. and Change the Script, directly below the left arete of the wall containing Change the Script. Climb the crack to reach a hold on the left and pull up onto ledge. Continue up corner above to top.
Change the Script ** 27m E3 6a
D. Agnew, J. Brown (As original Aid route Yo-Yo). 5/1/64. A. Weir, T. Fallon (One rest point). 8/97
A well protected route taking the fine overhanging wall topped by a perched block. Rest point used to clean then led on sight. Follow the thin cracks to small niche. (peg runner.) Move left and make hard moves through overhang. Continue up to ledges and escape left.
Change the Pants ***35m E5 6b
R. Bell, A. Marshall, C. Hiller. 20/4/7
An excellent direct finish to Change the Script with plenty of hard climbing. Follow Change the Script to the small niche and the old peg. Step up and right past a wobbly jug and climb the middle of the steep wall on spaced finger locks and side pulls.
Bonzo 37m HVS 5a
R. Cole, M. Smith, A. Devlin. 28/8/82.
Start - the corner crack right of Change the Script. Climb the corner/off-width (crux) for 5m, and continue on jams to broken ground and the top.
Greenpeace 49m VS 4b
A. Carden, G. Murray. 1/5/85.
The main, front face of Jupiter Wall, below and to the right of the wall of Change the Script, has a corner system on its left-hand end. Start - at a short crack 4m right of left-hand edge of Jupiter Wall. Climb crack then step left to grass ledge and up the green corner groove slanting left above to reach ledge on Starlight. (Belay). Finish as for Starlight.
Starlight ** 39m S 4a
C. Moore, F. Devlin. 8/11/62.
A varied, interesting route and one of the best for its grade and well worth the effort despite the finish. Start - 6m right of the left-hand end of the front face of Jupiter Wall at a small corner 2m right of Greenpeace. Up wall just left of this small corner a few moves, trend slightly right and then back left to ledge below more distinct corner. Move right and up to the bottom of the 'V' notch. Mantelshelf right and up to ledge. Scramble with care over loose flakes to the top.
Snitter * 47m HVS 5b
M. Smith, R. Cole, A. Devlin. 28/8/82.
Start - takes the straight crack up the wall between Starlight and Castelatus. Jam the crack up a slab to a ledge. Surmount a small pinnacle on the left then step back right to a finger crack and continue to the top with increasing difficulty. Finish carefully up the broken ground above.
Arctic Dreams * 50m E2 5c
I. Rea, M. Rea. 19/6/87.
Start - 1m right of Snitter. Follow a short crack to a shallow 'V' scoop. Traverse right to grass ledge and then up to right-hand side of large overhang. Up over roof (crux) until possible to step right to resting ledge. Step back left and continue up fault and blocky ledges to top.
The Proving Ground E3 5c
A.Marshall, C.Hiller, R.Bell 20/4/07.
Start as for Arctic Dreams, make moves up the slab until able to step right to the bottom of the corner. continue up the corner making moves through the roof (crux small friends handy) contine up the groove to a ledge. From this point pick the least vegetated route up to the top.
Castelatus * 43m E2 5c
G. Earnshaw, C. Moore (with aid). 13/6/65.
E. Cooper, I. Rea (First free ascent and direct start). 17/5/85.
In the middle of the wall, a pile of blocks lies at the foot of the crag. The original route starts just right of these blocks and leads easily to grass stance at 6m. Direct start (5a) starts right of this and follows the obvious line to the stance. Pull out right to a small ledge and, ignoring the old pegs, move further right to corner. Climb wall and arete right of this corner leading to broken ground. Easily but carefully to the top.
Aurora * 45m E2 5b
I. Rea, M. Rea. 17/5/85.
Start - route takes the wall between Castelatus and the rocky fault line of Milky Way. Up short steep wall and line of holds leading right to base of short corner. Swing right on good handhold to gain foothold on right wall. Directly up via obvious break in overhang and up ramp to finish as for Milky Way.
Milky Way 46m HS 4b
D. Dick, C. Moore. 21/6/63.
Start - 8m right of the large overhang in the middle of the wall at an obvious blocky fault line curving up right. Climb this fault line with care and easier rocks above to the top.
Galaxy Quest E1 5c *
C.Hiller 15/7/06
Start: 2m left of Eclipse under two obvious overhangs. Climb up beneath the overhangs and make the crux move through the left of the overhangs trending right above them. Continue straight up to a block belay.
Eclipse ** 40m VS 4c
I. Rea, R. Bankhead. 29/4/84.
A superb route reminiscent of a Lake District 'classic'. Start - immediately left of Solstice and 7m right of Milky Way, above a miniature cave. Climb a flake system for 10m until it is possible to make a few moves left to an exposed ledge. Up directly to reach small, left-facing corner above the Solstice overhang (Solstice crosses at this point). Step right and climb the left edge of the arete above. Climb blocks on the right and go up grass for 6m to good belays.
Solstice 48m VS 4b
D. Dick, C. Moore. 21/6/63.
Start - at the vertical crack 9m right of Milky Way, the last continuous line on Jupiter Wall, before it degenerates into grass. Strenuous laybacking and sloping holds to large sloping ledge. Traverse left under overhang (crossing Eclipse) to reach Milky Way at the top of the main wall. Easy rocks to finish but it is better to belay at first obvious ledge above the main wall.
Comet Buttress 28m VD
J. Forsythe, I. Rea. 29/4/84.
Start - a small triangular buttress set amidst grass and scree, half way between the right-hand end of Jupiter Wall and West Arete. The route follows cracks up the front of the buttress. Directly above Grooved Buttress is a small broken crag, about 50m right of Comet Buttress and 100m right of Jupiter Wall.
Anniversary Route 18m VD
J. Forsythe, H. McKee. 15/8/82.
Take grassy cracks in the left-facing wall, while West Arete follows the crest of the obvious rib.
Dirt Bird 25m E1 5b
I Rea & P Holmes, 26/4/04.
Start left of New Boots and Panties, at the flake. Climb over the initial bulge directly above the flake, then step right onto the arete. Up via thin flake/crack. Step right into New Boots and Panties and then immediately left below bulge. Make awkward pull over left side of arete, then back right to ledge. Finish directly up.
Crystal Fountains 25m E1 5b/c
I Rea & P Holmes 26/4/04
The clean arete between Anniversary Route(where is this?) and Dirt Bird. Start at a small lobe shaped flake. Go up arete to good ledges then out to the right and continue up via steep crack. Gain the top of the next pedestal from the left. Finish up the front face of the pillar.
New Boots and Panties 17m E1 5b
H. Walker, J. Harrup. 19/4/87.
Start - 2m right of the obvious grassy grooves of Anniversary Route at the left-hand of two corners right of a flake embedded in the ground. Climb the shallow, overhanging corner behind the flake and move into awkward layback crack above. Follow crack to ledge, then climb straight up corner above, or move right and up for easier finish.
West Arete 27m VD
B. Blakie, M. McMurray. 4/49.
Start - at the foot of the rib, as described above. Scramble up to the foot of a diedre. Climb this and step right below large block to rocking block, and up between blocks to top.
To the right of West Arete is another detached buttress, with a grassy left wall, but with a small clean facet on the left-hand side of the front face.
Cannons in the Rain ** 20m HVS 5a
G. Murray, A. Carden. 1/5/85.
Fine climbing with sustained interest by either finish. Up the left arete to a ledge. Continue directly up the wall and crack above. This line matches the description of Kruschev claimed by G. Earnshaw in 1964 and graded S. Variation Left-Hand Finish** 20m E1 (5b I. Rea. 19/6/87. At the ledge step left around arete to climb up to prominent crack and the top.
Stalin * 18m HS 4b
R. Mowll, G. Reilly. 5/53.
Mixed finesse and ferocity for the grade. Start - 2m right of the left arete of the crag is a deep vertical crack/corner. Climb this crack strenuously for 9m to a good ledge. Follow the crack above to ledge on the left and swing right into a V recess, then up to belay.
Malenkov Variation ** 15m S 4a
Start - 3m right of Stalin. Climb the deep narrow corner crack to ledge shared with Stalin. Climb the deep cleft to the right of Stalin to the top.
Right of Stalin is a further area of broken ground and then a fine tower of rock marking the right-hand end of the Upper Cliffs. The tower is split by a thin crack which in the past has been used for artificial climbing practice and to the right of this is the deep cleft of The Dagger.
The Dagger * 21m D
M. McMurray, B. Blakie. 4/49.
Climb the deep cleft and detached flake, moving right at the top. Two traverses of the Upper Cliffs have been climbed. Neither is described here in great detail and it is left to the ingenuity and inventiveness of climbers to add their own variations.
Eagles Wings 210m VS
A. Carden, R. Caves. 17 and 18/4/81.
Start - on the Green Wall, 5m left of A Bit on the Side. Traverse across the good ribs and broken ground of Muffled Oaths, Arete Oriental, Joy, Double X to The Trap. Continue across Stratocumulus above the overhang and into Raven's Gully. On right to layback crack on Raven's Nest, then down and right across Late Opening and the wall of Big Wig to Severed Finger. Up to top of ramp and right to join Flake Crack. Down 5m and then traverse right under lower set of overhangs into Jupiter Gully. Down almost to ground level and up to first corner right of Yo-Yo. Right 3m to left-sloping ramp which is climbed to ledge. Continue right to heather gully and finish.
Meander 250m VS
C. Moore, I. Brown. 12/9/65.
Start - at knife-edge arete of Arete Oriental. Traverse right to The Trap to top of Chimney Wall. Down this to the foot of Raven's Nest. Up this, then traverse right before descending and traversing right to Flake Crack ledge. Cross Bismuth to grass gully of Jupiter Gully. Up The Cure, then traverse along the top to Starlight. Climb down to ledge, and down top section to Castelatus. Traverse right to Milky Way, then right across the Solstice traverse and right to the base of the buttress.
GROOVED BUTTRESS
Grooved Buttress is split by three, left-facing, broad grooves, which have been climbed although grassy and uninteresting. The first three routes below follow ribs of good rock between these grooves and give pleasant climbing.
Trident Left * 28m VD
M. McMurray, B. Blakie. 4/49.
Takes the arete between first and second grooves. Climb the crusty excrescence's on the right of the arete to gain ledge at half height. Follow arete to final steep wall where a step right leads to the top.
Trident Central * 27m HS 4a
M. McMurray, B. Blakie. 4/49.
Delicate and exposed taking the arete between second and third grooves. Follow a series of deep cracks in the middle of the arete, pulling up left onto a grassy ledge at half height. Step back right and continue up cracks to a steep corner with a small overhang on the right. Jam up past this to the top.
The next route, as mentioned above, follows the rib of rock right of the third groove which forms the right edge of the front face. Right of this is a further wall facing towards the Donard/Commedagh col.
Trident Right 25m D
M. McMurray, B. Blakie. 4/49.
Start - on the edge formed by the two walls. Climb the flaked wall to reach the arete and scramble up blocky wall above to the top.
Xolob 22m D
G. Cairns and Party.
Start - 2m right of Trident Right on the Donard/Commedagh col facing wall. Jam the obvious deep cracks, converging to one crack and reach the final block section of Trident Right which is followed to the top.
