Devil's bit

From Irish Climbing Wiki

Location: There are a few small outcrops on the Devils Bit(grid ref. S058 744 OSI sheet 59) the rock is conglomerate and can be loose in places. As most of the routes have been on-sighted (unless otherwise stated) care should be taken.

According to local legend, the mountain got its name because the devil took a bite out of it. There is a small gap in the mountain between one outcrop of rock (Long Rock) and another small plateau (Small Rock). The bite the devil allegedly took made this gap. The legend also suggests that the devil broke his teeth taking this bite and the Rock of Cashel fell from his mouth to where it now stands.

Approach: From Templemore take the R501 Borrisoleigh road for 3km. take the second right signposted Devil's Bit parking, follow this for 2km to a t-junction and turn right and after another 2 km turn left signposted Devil's Bit parking. The carpark is about 1km up this road. Follow a marked trail uphill for 15 minutes which rises steeply to a forestry road; access to all the crags can be made from here is a little further on. Small Rock is on your left (South) and Long Rock is on your right (North).

Small Rock

These first route's are located directly under the statue of Mary.

1.IP66 VS 4c 12m
H. Hennessy S McDermott 25/8/2007
Climb the crack two meters left of the statue. climb on good holds past chock stones until it is possible to step right. Continue to top.

H.Hennessy S McDermott 26/8/2007
Climb the corner 3m right of ip66.

The next routes are at the back of Small Rock.

3.PHYSICS HS 4b 8m
R.Hennessy H.Hennessy 9/9/2007
Just to the right of the cross there is a detached block, climb the crack behind this.

4. ON THE GAME V.Diff 10m
R.Hennessy (solo) 9/9/2007
5m left of Physics is a right trending crack follow this to top.

The next line is on the north face of Small Rock.

H.Hennessy R.Hennessy 9/9/2007
This climb starts 20m right of the descent it takes a line on a detached block which is marked by a horizontal break at half height. Climb the center of this.

Long Rock Area 1

The next lines are across the Bit on Long Rock and are marked by a series of corners. Routes are described left to right

1. The Dragon VS 4c 12m
J G O'Dwyer Dan Cobren 29/5/2006
Climbs the second corner.

2. Toasty Warm HVS 5a 13m
H.Hennessy B.Dunne 27/9/2007
Start 3m right of the Dragon, follow crack until it veers leftwards. Finish boldly up the face.

3. Bee HVS 5a 12m
H.Hennessy 25/8/2007
Start 4m right of the obvious small roof. Climb steeply for 3m to ledge; continue up crack to grassy ledge,finish up left hand crack.

4. Rumour Room VS 4c 12m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy summer 2008
Climbs the roof. start of a block climb to a grassy ledge and finish up centre of wall.

5. Spike S4a 12m
H.Hennessy (solo)
Climb the short corner right of Rumour Room to ledge and finish as for Bee.

The next two lines are around the corner and start below a small roof at 7m

6. Last Remaining Light HVS 5a 5m
H.Hennessy S.McDermott 20/10/2007
Start below roof. Climb to just below roof and traverse left on small holds to the arete take this to top.

7. Running Scared E2 5c 13 m
H.Hennessy 30/5/2009
Start as for the last route and climb straight through the roof.

Long Rock area 2

The next routes start about seventy meters to the right where the cliff rises again

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1. Clio S 4a 12m
H. Hennessy S McDermott 26/8/2007
At the far left of the crag start under a overhang, follow a crack to a grassy ledge and finish easily to top.

2. Lost VS 4c 10m
H. Hennessy (solo) 1/3/2009
Climb 3m right of Clio past overlap to top.

3. Concise VS 4c 10m
H. Hennessy S.Mcdermott
Start at a curving crack six meters right of lost,climb this and finish on the face above.

4. Aneurysm E1 5b 17m
H. Hennessy B.Dunne (abseil inspected) 29/8/2007
In the centre of the main face this line takes two cracks that run from 1/4 height to top, start below these at awide crack.

5. Catholic School Girls Rock HVS 5a 17m
H. Hennessy R.Hennessy 12/8/2007
Start as for last route after three meters traverse into corner follow this untill it is possible to step right. finish easily.
direct start climb boldly up to the corner.
H. Fogg G.Fogg H.Fogg 12/7/2008

6. Pursuit of Happiness E2 6a 17m
H. Hennessy B.Dunne (abseil inspected) summer 12/7/2008
Start below overhang make some bouldery moves to gain the crack, climb this to a ledge follow the next cract to top.

7. Snowstorm E2 5b 17m
M. Walsh C. Ennis, 23/3/2008
start at crack on the right wall under a big roof. traverse leftwards under the roof onto the face follow the arete to top.

8. Snatch VS 4c 18m
H. Hennessy C. Hanley 12/7/2008
five meters right of snowstorm is a corner follow this for eight meters and step left into another corner finish easily.

9. Mean Machine VS 4c 18m
H. Hennessy C.Hanley 12/7/2008
four meters right of snatch is stepped arete follow this to top.

10. Sticky Gear HVS 5a 16m
H. Hennessy R. Hennessy 1/9/2007
climbs the second corner at the far left of the face just right of a big slab.

11. Get on Top E1 5b 16m
H. Hennessy S. McDermott 13/10/2007
start ten meters right of sticky gear. climb the second crack on the face.

12. Primate HVS 5a 16m
M. Walsh H. Hennessy summer 2009
takes the wide crack right of get on top tricky move near top.

13. Decent Chimney s 4a 16m
H. Hennessy R. Hennessy 8/9/2007
in the middle of the face is a large detached block, climb a short corner and either bridge up the chimney or walk up the back!

14. Bliss E1 5b 16m
H. Hennessy R. Hennessy summer 2009
climbs the thin crack four meters right of decent chimney to a bulge at 3/4 height makea hard move past this and finish on good holds.

Long Rock Area 3

The next lines start sixty meters right on a south facing cliff clearly visible from the forest track.

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1. Hair Today Gone Tomorrow s 4a 15m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy 4/8/2008
Climbs the slab right of minor thing.

2. Minor Thing s4a 15m
H.Hennessy (solo)
Takes the corner with a slb on its right hand side loose rock near top

3. Disposition E2 5b 15m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy (abseil inspected) 30/5/2009
This route takes the striking arete at the left side of the crag. start as for minor thing, traverse right to the arete climb this with increasing difficulty.
Direct Start (5b)
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy B.Dunne summer 2009
Start directly below the arete, steep climbing poorly protected.

4. Given to Fly s4a 16m
H.Hennessy S.Mcdermott 15/9/2007
As for manapause but take the crack running under the roof then go straight up using goo grassy jugs.

5. Manapause VS 4b 15m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy S.Mcdermott 15/9/2007
Start below a grassy ledge to the right of a small roof, climb up into a scoop then move leftwards up a corner to top. poorly protected.

6. Unnamed E2 5c 14m
M.Walsh C.Ennis 23/3/2008
Climbs the wide crack four meters right of the roof.

7. Unnamed HVS 5a 14m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy B.Dunne summer 2009
The crack seven meters right of the roof.

8. Pebble Dash E1 5a 14m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy 15/9/2007
Start in the center of the face below a small corner with a thin crack in it. protection is hard to arrange.

9. Outer Limits E2 5b 10m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy 9/2008 (abseil inspected)
A bold line on the face just right of pebble dash. start of a detached block make some insecure moves to the sloping ledge and gear! mantle this and finish easily.

10. Wasted HS 4b 14m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy 19/8/2007
Start three meters right of outer limits take the left hand crack.overgrown.

11. Busted Knee HS 4b 14m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy 19/8/2007
Takes the right hand crack, big gear useful.

12. See Through S4a 12m
H.Hennessy (solo) 23/3/2008
Climb the wide cracked corner to the right of the arete. move left at the top to finish up busted knee

13. JD and Coke VS 4c 14m
H.Hennessy J.dollard 23/3/2008
Start as for light my way when the ledge is reached take the left hand crack through a small overhang which is hard to start.

14. Light My Way S 4a 14m
H.Hennessy S.Mcdermott 20/10/2007
Start below an to the right of a large ledge. climb up to the ledge and climb the corner using a wide crack

15. Raging Demon HVS 5a 14m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy 19/8/2007
Six meters right of light my way is a clean crack that runs to half height climb this until it is possible to reach the aréte follow this to top.

To the right of raging demon is another face with some nice looking lines that would need cleaning. only two have been climbed so far.

16. Fallen Angel HVS 5a 16m
H.Hennessy B.Dunne 22/9/2007
This line takes a finger crack in the center. climb the first eight meters with difficulty untill ledge is gained move right and finish up easily.

17. Split Division HVS 5a 15m
J.Dollard H.Hennessy 23/3/2008
Ten meters right of fallen angel is a corner with its right hand wall overhanging. follow this to a ledge and make some delicate moves to top

18. Chimney Sweep VS 4c 14m
P.Scanlan R.Cunningham Feb 2012
Start two meters left of Pebble Dash, climb the obvious chimney to the top.Good protection.

19. April Fools HVS 5a 15m
P.Scanlan R.Cunningham 01 April 2012
Start four meters right of Fallen Angel and climb the finger crack, good protection. Some delicate moves to top.

20. Mirage S 4a 15m
R.Cunningham P.Scanlan April 2012
Start four meters right of April Fools and climb the easy crack to the top, good protection. .

21. Mirage HS 5a 15m
R.Cunningham P.Scanlan April 2012
Start five meters right of Mirage and climb the crack for 10 meters, traverse right to the top with delicate moves. .

Long Rock Area 4

These next routs are located fifty meters right of split division where the cliff rises again to about eight meters 100 0571.jpg

1. Almond finger V.Diff 8m
H.Hennessy (solo) 21/10/2007
Climb the thin crack on the left of the face.

2. Optically active S 4a 8m
H.Hennessy (solo) 21/10/2007
The crack four meters right of almond finger.

3. Comatose s 4a 8m
H.Hennessy (solo) 21/10/2007
Start in a corner eight meters right of optically active, reach a grassy ledge and fight your way through the heather above.

4. Oxidative Phosphorylation HS 4b 8m
H.Hennessy (solo) 21/10/2007
Take the left hand crack to a ledge at half height make har moves to top.

Long Rock Area 5

The next lines are on a small outcrop on the opposite side of area 1 on long rock. its best approached by walking along the top and scrambling down. the routes are on the lower outcrop


1. Grind HS 4b 10m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy 24/4/2010
This line climbs the arete near the center of the crag that starts off an overhang at 1/3 height. start to the right climb a corner for three meters and traverse left to the arete. follow this to top.

2. Disarm HS 4b 10m
H.Hennessy (solo) 24/4/2010
Climbs the corner right of grind.

3. Low Light V.Diff 10m
H.Hennessy (solo) 24/4/2010
Climbs the capped corner.

4. Damage Case E1 5a 8m
H.Hennessy R.Hennessy 24/4/2010
Climbs the slightly overhanging crack to the left of the slab. make some hard moves to to reach the slab finish easily.

5. Rockin Robin HS 4a 8m
H.Hennessy (solo) 24/4/2010
Climb the slab right of damage case no protection.

6. Setting Forth S 4a 8m
H.Hennessy(solo) 24/4/20010
The crack right of rockin robin.

7. Far Behind VS 4c 8m
H.Hennessy (solo) 24/4/2010
Start on good holds pull up over overhang and finish up slab easily.

8. Right Arete V.Diff 8m
H. Hennessy (solo) 24/4/2010
Climb the arete at the far right of the slab.

Long Rock Area 6

The next lines are on the opposite side of area 2 and are best approached by walking through the bit (gap between small rock and long rock) and heading northwards until the cliff rises up again to about twelve meters

1. Senor HVS 5a 10m
B. Dunne H. Hennessy 22/9/2007
Six meters left of overgrown pile of s**t take the crack that runs into a small corner. pull over the over hang at 1/2 height (crux) then continue to top.

2. Overgrown Pile of S**t S 4a?? 10m
H. Hennessy S. Mcdermott 2007
Climbs a corner to the far right. climb through loose rock to good grassy holds and more loose rock.