Cape Clear Island

From Irish Climbing Wiki

At the western end of the island, the Bill of Clear is a twin pronged rocky headland of excellent sandstone, split by a blowhole cave

Easy Peasy Corner Severe 16m.
D.Walsh, D.Doyle Sept. 1991
At the very end of the furthest jutting section, a modest scramble finds you below a clean cut corner. Its easier than it looks.

In Search of the Red Eyed Vireo VS 16m
D.Doyle and D.Walsh Sept.'91.
This is the crack veering right, on the right hand wall of "Easy Peasy". Start at the foot of the corner and go for the crux above the niche. Loads of gear.

Phalaropian Tube HS 20m.
D.Walsh, D.Doyle Sept. '91.
On the inside wall of the outer prong, at the entrance to the blowhole, facing the boilerplate slab, there are some airy ramps descending downwards. Here you'll find a crack and ramp system rending to the right. Start on the ledge at the foot of the crack and climb steeply up to a bulge in the ramp at 10m (crux). From here finish up the ramp.

The smaller of the two prongs gas a vertically cracked "boiler plate" slab with broken ground on the right. A bleak corner is found still further right, with two small ledges to the bottom and an overlap at 6m.

Snow Bunting Severe 35m.
D.Walsh, S. Barrett, D.Doyle. Sep.'91.
Start on the lower of the two ledges mentioned and climb diagonally up left by footledges to surmount the overlap at 6m. Skip to the left again for 2m to a crack on the extreme edge of the slab, then up the pockmarks to finish up the ramp at the top of the slab.

Fastnet Frolic HS 32m
D.Walsh, D.Doyle Sept.'91
Start as for "Snow Bunting" but go straight up from the first footledge. Continue on over the overlap and up the finger crack in the slab above to finish on the right-hand side of the slab, left of the fourth corner on the top.

Dig Out VS 33m.
D.Walsh, S.Barrett Sept.'91
Once again start from the lower ledge and climb directly up the steep wall into a shallow scoop at the overlap. Move up into the crux twin cracks to finish directly above the third corner.

Lesser Whitethroat Severe 20m.
D.Walsh, D. Doyle Sept.'91
This time from the higher ledges climb the broken slab/crack, steep at the start and finish, where you exit by the second corner.