Knockhourough

Situated about 18 miles from Limerick City. Grid ref. 832 470. From Limerick city follow the N24 Waterford road through Pallas Green (new) to a turn signposted for Doon (R507) (3.5 miles after Pallas Green). Take this road for 2.3 miles to a Y junction just after a small bridge (the crag may be seen over to the right at this point). Take the right branch of the Y until a further right turn can be made. Follow this past a farm on the right until the crag can be seen again across the fields to the right.

The crag seems to be of a metamorphosed limestone and has a large number of large and smooth holds. Only really worth one evening visit.

Routes are described from left to right.

DON'T SPEAK TOO SOON HS 4a
D. Hunt, C. Ahearne, J. Yelverton, 20th September 1995
Start about 1 m right of where the main wall drops to about 5 m.Climb directly to the top, passing just right of the small tree 2 m from the top.

BLACK BUM VS 4c
E. Fitzgerald (solo). 23rd September 1995
Follow the right-trending crack to the top.

LOOKS CAN DECEIVE HS 4a
D. Hunt (solo). 23rd September 1995
Start 2 m left of route 7.Climb straight up past bush stump to the top.

BELOW THE BOULDER VS 4c
D. Hunt. August 1995
Start about 1 m left of the small corner/crack on the main wall.Climb straight up over bulge to the top.

STAB CITY S 4a
D. Hunt (solo). 1st October 1995
This route follows the obvious crack near the middle of the main wall, just right of Below The Boulder. Start in the corner under the end of the overhang.Climb out from the corner into the crack, following it to the top.

SLIPSTONE 8m S
W. Walker, P. Treacy, W. Walker (Jnr), 12th April 1986
Takes the corner at the left end of the two tier wall finishing out left. An excellent climb.

THE CUTTING EDGE 10m VS 4c
D. Hunt (solo). 23rd September 1995
Start 1 m left of Quickstep.Climb strenuously up, moving slightly right to gain an awkward jug. -Continue on to the ledge, and from there directly to the top.

QUICKSTEP 8m M
W. Walker, W. Walker (Jnr). 12th April 1986
Takes the right arête of the two tier wall. Large holds but very smooth. Step carefully.

GALTY VIEW VD
D. Hunt (solo). 20th September 1995
Start 1 m right of the arête at the end of the tow tier wall.Climb direct to the top on good jugs.

BOXED IN M
D. Hunt (solo). 20th September 1995

CLAUSTRAPHOBIA M
D. Hunt (solo). 20th September 1995

BUSHES IN THE WAY 10m M
C. Ahearne (solo). 20th September 1995
Start 1 m left of the corner.Climb straight to the top, then traverse left 2 m to avoid getting cut to pieces by the bushes. Gain the top from here. The bushes preventing the above route from being finished directly were cleared and re-climbed by J. Yelverton on 23rd September 1995.

PIECE OF PISS 10m M
E. Fitzgerald (solo). 23rd September 1995
Follow the left trending crack to the top.

The following routes are on the block pinnacle, starting from the arête nearest the two tier wall.

HELIX 10m HS 4b
W. Walker, May 1986
Start at the left corner of the block pinnacle where a groove is undercut by the overhang on the front of the pinnacle.Gain the groove from the left and climb it to a large sloping ledge. Traverse right across the face of the pinnacle until the top may be gained with ease.

SIDESTEP 6m VS 4c
W. Walker, May 1986
Start in the gully just left of Helix and climb the wall of the pinnacle direct to the top.

MICRO 5b
D. Hunt (solo), 20th September 1995
More of a boulder problem than a route. Gain the top of the right arête of the pinnacle without using the corner.