Aill na Cronain
Introduction
CLIMBING NO LONGER ALLOWED HERE. See Access section below.
This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park.
Once down the descent gully it is worth moving about 50m out from the crag from where the skull shape of Skull Buttress becomes obvious. The routes in this area are self-evident from their names, with Skull Slab the right cheek. The East Side is north of the descent. To the north of the Skull Slab and the East Side areas the rock continues for another couple of hundred m's, the Far East Crag details the climbs on that section of rock. The crag ends with some large boulders suitable for bouldering.
15/4/2024 Folks landowner has been in touch with climbing.ie and is very dissatisfied with climber behavior and is banning climber access once again, at a guess its probably people taking the shortest route possible to the cliff across his field system and/or parking on narrow roads. Barry Watts
Access
Peregrines are known to nest here, so best to avoid from the beginning of March to the end of July. Nests with eggs have been seen here in 2016 and 2017.
As of April 2024, the landowner has revoked permission to access this crag, so please respect their wishes. NO CLIMBING until further notice.
Aill na Crónain Topo
Aill Na Cronain
Far East side
MAGIC CARPET RIDE VS 5a
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.
The first obvious crack line on the left edge of the buttress. The crux is getting off the magic carpet ledge and into the upper crack.
ALADDIN’S BIG TRIP HS
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.
Takes the slab and cracks 2m right of magic carpet ride, crux is gaining the first grassy ledge, side runners can be placed in the magic carpet ride crack to protect the start.
ALADDIN'S CRACK AND WALL 16m HS 4c
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.
Takes the wide crack and steep wall 4m right of Magic Carpet Ride.The steep final wall can be protected by placing gear in the crack on the left.
ALADDIN’S RAMP S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.
Start at the bottom right hand side of the detached buttress-pinnacle. Move up the short cleaned arête and the longer corner to arrive on the broad ledge, finish up the steep shallow right facing corner on the left to exit as for Butcher’s Block.
BUTCHER’S BLOCK HS 4a
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.
A nice line spoilt by a pile of ominous looking overhanging blocks on the right wall. Climb the leftward trending ramp left of the striking arête,take care of the blocks on your right. At the ledge move left for 3m climb the right facing corner.
PERIGEE CORNER S
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.
Climb the wide crack corner finishing steeply over the jammed ‘wrecking ball block’.
This corner may feel open and exposed or a well protected classic, depending on mood.
The Scenic Variation VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 27/9/2015.
Climbs the wide crack in the corner for 4m and traverse left along a ramp to finish directly up the wall.
BRIAN BORU WALL HS
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.
Start 3m right of Perigee corner, follow the twin cracks steeply to a ledge and continue up the next set of twin cracks to the top.
CIMA DELLA QUEVA 18m VS 5a
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.
Bouldery bridging and crack jamming at the start, climb the overhanging short corner 4m right of Brain Buru Wall to a ledge, finish up the right trencing crack/flake.
SPELEO HIGHWAY HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.
Start at the steep arête left and downhill of the large chimney cave. Climb steeply up the arete and short wall to reach a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack which trends leftwards and upwards out of the overhanging cave.
EXIT PURSUED BY A BEAR 20m HS 4a
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.
Climbs directly up the face of the cave right of Speleo Highway.
CRON'S CAVE Grade a clambering
First Ascent A man followed by a bear
First Recorded Ascent Conor Warner, November 2015.
Clamber with care into the cave and exit easily through the roof opening.
WHITE KNIGHT VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.
A steep gymnastic line with good protection and holds where it matters. Start on a blunt arête of rock. 3m left of Cath Deirgne, climb over ledges until just below the overhanging Knight block which is left of the ivy curtain. Surmount this block directly, and finish up the groove.
REGGAELATION 20m S 4a
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.
Climb the long corner groove right of White Knight, the last 5m are the crux.
COROFIN TRAMP VARIATION VS 5a
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.
Takes the steep wall and crack 2m right of the Reggaelation finish.
CATH DEIRGNE 16m HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 27/9/2015.
Start 2m left of Farranshone and follow the steep crack that is formed by the left hand side of the pillar mentioned above, step right to finish at the overhanging headwall.
CATH DEIRGNE DIRECT VS 5a
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.
Finish up the overhanging wall.
FARRANSHONE * 16m S
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.
A fine route on good rock, it starts just left of the ash tree and takes the obvious continuous arête and pillar. Climb the wide crack (harder than it looks) to reach a ledge and continue up the pillar.
COROLLA GROOVE HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.
This route ascends the cracked groove, left of Corolla Crusaders. Start as for Corolla Crusaders to the grassy terrace. Move up the same arete for 2m before traversing delicately left into the groove (crux) to finish directly up the wall.
A variation exists to climb the overhang directly to gain the groove. Awaiting FA.
COROLLA CRUSADERS S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.
Start 1m left of the tree, climb the wall to the grassy ledge. Continue up the textured wall on good holds just right of the arête.
RESTLESS NATIVES 16m S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.
Starts at the steep twin crack 2m right of the ash tree. Climb the crack, cross the ledge and finish up the wide crack in the slab above, medium to big gear essential.
PAMELA ANDERSON * HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.
A fine companion piece to Restless Natives. Start right of Restless Natives to the grassy ledge. Continue directly over a delicate step via a narrow crack to a stance under the upper arête. Finish up the attractive-looking crack in the wall just left of this upper arête. She’s a star!
ARTICLES OF WAR 18m HVS 5a
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/6/2016.
Start 2m left of The Lug Walk and just left of a hawthorne tree. Boulder up the wall just left of the arêteto reach better holds and the wide grassy terrace. Continue up the next short wall by the right hand-side to reach a ledge. Step left and finish up the steep smooth headwall by the prominent crack (crux).
THE LUG WALK D
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.
Long and easy but with good climbing for the grade. Start at the wide stepped corner groove 10m right of the tree, follow the groove line to the upper sloping ramp. Ignore the wide off-width crack on your left. Instead, take the arête 2m to it’s right, climb the arête to finish.
GLENMALURE LODGE FINISH HS
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.
Once in, it's tricky to get out of ! Finish up the wide off-width crack.
WILDCAT GROWL 25m S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.
Follow the prominent arête just right of the start of The Lug Walk.On reaching the large recess scramble up the front crag line to finish.
SUPER MOON BLOW VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.
Climb the steep groove (crux) 6m right of The Lug Walk to gain the terrace ramp. Move to the dark corner at the back of the ramp. Climb this corner to finish
East Side
CENTENARY CRACK 10m VD
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.
Easy and enjoyable. Takes the left-trending crack line 1m left of Cleft.
CLEFT 10m VD
I. Graham, K. Price, 4/5/1971.
Catapult-shaped corner, 30m left of the descent. Finish up left or direct over the jammed boulder.
BLOODLINE 10m S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.
Takes the crack line 3m right of Cleft to gain a niche. Veer right to avoid the overhang which is cappedwith ivy and a loose block.
AILEEN's ARETE 10m VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.
20m left of the descent and 4m right of the hawthorn tree there is a 10m high smooth wall. Climb the left hand side of the smooth wall to the sentry box/gully, Finish up the juggy arête on the left.
EAST SIDE STORY 10m HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.
Takes the slim crack in the smooth wall 2m left of Fright
FRIGHT 10m S
I. Rowe, K. Price, 14/8/1974.
The left hand of the twin cracks in the wall just left of the descent
DE GAULLE 10m MS
K. Price, I. Rowe, 14/8/1974.
The arete just right of Fright. Awkward at the top.
Skull Buttress
About 25m at its highest, the buttress looks remarkably like a skull when seen from a distance. Route names and descriptions refer to features of the skull.
HOLLOW, MAN 15m HVS 5a
H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.
Start just left of "eustachian tube" in a short corner, climb this up to a short steep wall underneath a small left facing corner made up of hollow flakes. climb this to top.
EUSTACHIAN TUBE 20m S
P. Coakley, M. McCormack, 1982.
Start just right of the descent on the extreme left of the buttress under an open-book corner at the top. Gain a large rounded ledge at 15m by a ridge weakness and climb the top corner on the right.
LOCKJAW 15m HVS 5a
F Cox, C Warner, September 1999.
Start 2m-3m right and down the hill from EUSTACAIN TUBE, there is a shallow groove leading up to a slab [directly below the finishing corner of DIAGONALS], climb this confidently to a large pocket [large cam] rockover delicately and so reach the ledge and finish up the corner.
CREST OF A WAVE 20m HVS 5a
H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.
Start just right of "lockjaw" at a thin curving crack, climb this to a good hold then move right along the lip of the overhang to meet "eureka" follow this to top.
MONKEY BUSINESS 20m E2 5c
H.Hennessy, R. Sohel, 24/9/2013.
A direct start to "crest of a wave" climb the center of the overhang passing three horizontal breaks, protection difficult to arrange.
DIAGONALS 25m S
K. Price, I. Graham, 12/12/71.
Start at the foot of the tortuous ridge just left of the foot of the buttress. Climb the ridge which is the left edge of the smooth cracked slab by weaving past the obstacles, left and right. At 17m step left and climb the same corner as Eustachian Tube.
EUREKA * 25m HS
D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.
Climbs the same ridge as Diagonals but directly. Finish straight (crux) up the headwall just right of the arête (right eye socket).
SKULL SLAB ** 25m VD
K. Price, I. Graham, 4/9/71.
This slab is the main feature of the buttress and is the true right cheek of the skull. Smooth, cracked and well protected. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and gain the lowest part of the slab at 4m diagonally left. Climb the slab and exit through the left eye socket above right.
Variation finish 5b Step left via awkward and perplexing move onto the high slab on left and climb headwall above. Variation forehead finish 5a F Cox, B Watts, Jan 1999 High up on Skull slab and before you exit out the Left eye socket it is possible to go up the ‘forehead’, 2m left of the slab and marked by a sapling on the right there is a small blank corner, finish boldly up this and the wall above.
SKULL'S NOSE 25m S
M. McCormack, P. Coakley, 1982.
Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The nose is the arête on the right of Skull Slab. Gain the arête from below right. Exit just left of the top of Skull Slab by a break in the headwall.
DIRECT START 4b M. Keogh, H Hennessy, 24/9/2013. Start directly below the arete underneath an overhang, climb up the right facing corner and out through the roof to meet skull's nose.
LEFT CHEEK 25m S
K. Price, I. Graham, 1/1/72.
Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Follow broken, easy rock on the right of the nose and gain Skull Slab just below its exit at the top.
RAVEN ** 20m E3 6a
P Owens, D Brosnan, May 2007.
Start just left of boulder and underneath the overhanging prow. Climb easy ground to gain a groove. Go up this for a few metres to where an overhanging break goes out right. Arrange wires here and traverse out right with increasing difficulty. Reach out right to grasp jug on the nose of the overhang and swing out to slab for a breather. Continue easily up the arête to the top.
THE SMIRK 22m & 18m S
C and A Warner, 6/6/13.
A two pitch enjoyable atmospheric traverse from right to left across ‘Skull Buttress’.
1. Start as for 'Left Cheek' and climb the enjoyable corner above to ‘Skull’s Nose’. Traverse across ‘Skull Slab’ to the corner half way up ‘Diagonals’. Belay here.
2. Follow ‘Diagonals’ left around the arête and up to a series of good ledges. Hand traverse left across ‘Eustachian Tube’ to easy ground.
SUNBANE * 20m E1 5c
T. Ryan, 30/4/83.
This is the deep V-groove with an overhang at one-third height on the right side of the buttress.
MAYDAY ** 20m VS
D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.
The right-slanting crackline right of Sunbane. Start as for Sunbane. Escape right at 2m with difficulty onto a short slab. Bridge over the overhang and step left. The strenuous crack above is the crux.
SKULL'S EAR 20m D
D. Rowe, I. Rowe, 1972.
The rib on the extreme right of the buttress.
BUTTERFLY 16m HS
D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.
6m right of Skull Buttress under the appropriately shaped skyline. Gain the obvious fault line to finish (crux) between the wings.
SKULLDUGGERY 8m S
D. Doyle, D. McMahon, 30/4/83.
The obvious south-facing chimney in the wall 100m right of Skull Buttress. Pleasant.
Falla Uachtarach
About 50m back from the top of Skull Buttress, at the next scarp line, is Falla Uachtarach with the following routes.
SANTA's LIST 10m S
David Brady, Darragh Heneghan, 4/3/2016.
20m left of DOM look for a leaning block of rocks left of Diamond Left. Climb the crack line to the right alongside and follow the crack line to the top.
DIAMOND LEFT 12m S Diamond Right 12m S
Darragh Heneghan, David Brady, 4/3/2016.
Diamond shaped looking piece of limestone visible from the top of Aill Na Cronain. Picture included. Climb up to the corner to the base of the diamond. Follow crack line for finish. Diamond Right gives a suitable alternative. Loose rock in places.
GREEN IS THE VALE S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/11/2018.
Start in the bay where the Diamond's begin, turn the overhang on the right by it's right hand side, continue up the wall and wide crack to top.
20m to the right there is
DOM 10m S
Ian Francis, Phil Ryan, 05/5/13.
Small boulder moves lead to a tight chimney. Follow the corner crack to top out.
CÉ’N SCÉAL 9m S
Shane Walsh, Terrance Glancy, 05/5/13.
Treat rock with care. Climb the flaky groove direct.
CREVICE CLAMP 14m S
Lar McLachlan, Shane Murtagh, 05/5/13.
Steep start leads to crescent shaped flake. Continue directly with interest to small grass ledge and scramble up the short wall.
SAINTS AND SINNERS 14m S
Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll, 05/5/13.
Tricky start leads to interesting and varied climbing on sound rock. Pass a ledge at 2/3 height and ascend a short crack to belay.
JENNIE 16m VD
Lower section Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.
Upper section Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, 28/10/2017.
Takes the crack 2m right of Saints and sinners with a tricky start, at two third height move right for 2m and take the leftward trending wide crack and corner to the top.
100m to the right the cliff rises up again giving the following routes.
REALT NA MARA 14m VD
Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016.
Delightful climbing on the left hand end of the buttress, climb a series of wide cracks and ledges to the top.
PIER HOUSE BATS 12m HS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.
Climb the shallow corner 3m right of Realt Na Mara, finish up the corner/chimney with difficulty.
BEAN MHEIRICEÁNACH 12m HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016
Start as for Pier House Bats, continue up the pleasant crack in the headwall.
MAGIC MÁLA 12m S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.
Climb the cracked arête past the tree to a ledge, finish steeply up the crack (crux).
ENGAGEMENT S
Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.
Climb the crack 1m right of the arete to a ledge, traverse right for 3m and climb the short left facing corner to a higher ledge, finish up the short steep headwall.
AUTUMN GLORY 12m HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.
5m right of the arête climb the cracked wall with steep moves to start.
ST MUNCHIN'S BREAKFAST 11m S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 8/9/2023.
Start between AG and FACILE below a wide crack, climb the wall right of this crack to a ledge where FACILE swings to the left, instead finish up the smooth cracked wall above.
FACILE 12m D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/10/2016
Takes the corner 4m right of Autumn Glory, follow the corner past a number of ledges to finish.
CLASH OF THE ASH 12m HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.
2m right of FACILE, climb the clean groove passing the over hang on the right, finish easily.
FEAR GORM 12m HS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, 9/10/2016.
Climb the groove 2m right of CLASH OF THE ASH.
CÚINNE DANA 12m S 4a
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.
Climbs the shallow corner 1m right of Fear Gorm, at the ledge continue up the short steep wall to finish.
DETENTION S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.
Start below and right of CÚINNE DANA, scramble up to the steep left facing corner, climb leftwards to a shelf and finish directly as for CÚINNE DANA.
SUSPENSION S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.
Climb the sreep wide crack 3m right of DETENTION.
EXPULSION S
Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.
Start 1m right of SUSPENSION, climb on small flat holds to reach a shelf and rest, veer slightly right up the cracked wall to finish.
POULATAGGLE EGGS 8m S
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 4/11/2018.
50m to the right there is a lone holly tree. Climb the wall to the right.
Small Wall
This pleasant 12m high wall is located halfway between Skull Buttress and the Ailwee Cave car park. All the routes are excellent, the best being Demon Dim and Poetic Majesty.
I DON'T BELIEVE IT! * 12m E1 5b
V. Cleary, J. Magee, May 2010.
10m left of the small wall there is a broken section with one obvious line up clean steep rock. Start on a short ramp and follow curving crack to horizontal break and then continue to the top. Nice technical movement.
CRACKITY JONES 12m D
D. Heneghan, D. O'Shea, 17/1/12.
2m left of Rotteroute, starting between two boulders on the ground, following the obvious crack up alongside the pillar. Top out just left of the overhanging slab.
ROTTEROUTE * 12m HS
D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.
Straight up from the leftmost triangular block on the ground. Follow the crack left of the large flake.
GROTTOROUTE * 12m S
D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.
Step off the right-hand triangular block at the grotto (niche) and go diagonally left to a crack on the right of a large flake. Straight to the top.
DEMON DIM ** 12m HVS
T. Ryan, 1983.
Start at the grotto and climb directly to the square-cut nick at the top.
FOLLYERUPPER * 12m HVS
D. Walsh, 4/8/83.
Start 3m right of the grotto. A high step onto the hollow flake. Weave left, then right to take the central overhanging bulge just left of the V-shaped nick in the skyline (crux).
THE SWEDISH AFFAIR HVS 5b
D. Owens, J. Hawkins, 19/9/1995.
Start on the hollow flake of FOLLYERUPPER and climb directly up to and through the bulge, avoiding the crack on the right and the footholds on the left.
PRICELESS * 12m VS
D. Walsh, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.
Start at the foot of the crack on the right of the buttress. Step off a rectangular block, then diagonally left to the central overhanging bulge which is turned on the right (crux). Stretchy.
THE SHIRE HVS 5a/5b
J. Hawkins, D. Owens, 19/9/1995.
Starting on the point of the rectangular block, climb the wall directly to the V-shaped nick on the skyline avoiding the crack on POETIC MAJESTY and holds on PRICELESS.
POETIC MAJESTY ** 12m VS
D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/1983.
The crack on the right of the wall above the rectangular block.
COVENANT 12m HS
T. Ryan, 1983.
The arête on the right of Poetic Majesty. Step left at half height. Climb the cracks to the top.
