Kerry Head

The following few short climbs are located at the north west end of Kerry head on a steep cliff of solid old red sandstone. The cliff is located on an ancient promontory fort at GR Q675307. Access is by following the coast road west of Ballyheigue, and by following the dirt road which goes west from GR Q 695310.It is a steep cliff, with sufficient cracks and holds to warrant a visit, and there is some good scope for more climbing, even if the routes are short.

It is possible to scramble down easily to the base of the crag from the north side. This brings you to a large sloping slab/ledge. All these routes are very well protected with wires or friends.

PILFFILFIZZ! 6m HVS 5b
B Walsh, M O'Meara
Start one metre left of corner on some loose blocks below a thin crack.

RED CRACK 5m Diff
J. Bergin (solo)
This short route takes the clean vertical corner/crack to the north-northeast of the corner of the cliff proper.

COCO 8m HS 4b
J. Bergin, L. Storey. May 2011
This route takes a crack line about 2m to the south of the corner proper. Climb past three small undercut ledges, then up the crack to the top.

TRIXIE 8m VS 4c
J. Bergin, L. Storey. May 2011
This route starts about 4 meters from the corner. Climb steeply up the scoup to gain a good stance on the right at approx. 3m. Step left and steeply up the crack to the top.

SNAIL 9m VS 5a
B. Walsh, not seconded, June 2015
Start below the left hand side of detached looking block. Climb to crack and layback up to easier ground and top.

NASLI 10m VS 4c
J. Bergin, L. Storey. May 2011
Start approx. 15m from the corner, just before the lowest point of the cliff. Follow some broken ledges and cracks to a corner, up these, then the arête or nose to the top.

PLUTO 10m HS 4b
J. Bergin, L. Storey. May 2011
Start just to the right of the lowest point of the cliff. After an athletic start, follow the corner/scoup and then some flakes to the top.

DANGLING JANE HVS 5a
J. Bergin, L. Storey. May 2011
This route follows an obvious crack line about 10m to the south(right) of PLUTO. A gymnastic start in a recess leads to easier ground and the top.

JAKES BEANSTALK VDiff 10m
M omeara 5th august 2017
Far right of crag,climb starts at gap in overhanging blocks were red stone layer becomes flush with face. Climb left onto ledge with Samphire,climb goes straight up from here onto ledge with good nut anchors on top.

A GENTLE SQUEEZE 10m HS 5a
D. Lenihan, S. Strain 12/8/17
This route starts about 10 meters right of pluto, just left of dangling jane, line is straight up, protection is good.