Fanore

Introduction

A long low limestone cliff ranging in height from 3m to 10m. It is about 600m above and behind St Patrick's Church in Fanore. Park at Murrough Bridge, there are a few spaces on the grassy verge of the Khyber Pass road. Walk up the road towards the Pass for 200m and there is a stile on the right hand side, climb over this and head up the rocky hillside until you spot the escarpment line.

The first climbs are on the far left (as you face the cliff) and have a north westerly aspect to them. They run from right to left.

ICEBURGER * (1) 14m HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Climb steeply to the platform, climb the crack in the laid back slab and move right to finish.

CHOCK A LOT * (2) 14m S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start left and just lower down from the rock platform. Climb the cracked wall and finish up the right trending wide crsck, as the names suggests hexes are handy.

SPRINKLES (3) 10m VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start just left of CHOCK and climb the narrower cracks directly to the top.

I SCREAM (4) 10m VS 4c

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start 5m left of SPRINKLES at an arete, climb the wall left of the arete to a platform, finish up the steep wide crack above (crux).

COHEN (5) 10m S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start left of SCREAM and climb the left side of the buttress to a small ledge, climb up the steep cracked wall on your right which is left of the upper arete.

ELF ON A SHELF VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 5/2/2024.

SLACK TIDE 10m VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.

Climbs the left facing corner on the left of the overhangs.

BIKINI LINE * 10m VS 4c

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Climb the leftward slanting wide crack to a ledge finish directly up the vertical wall above.

BAYWATCH 10m S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.

THE HOFF 10m HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.

WALRUS 10m VD

Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/4/2023.

Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.

BEACH BUM * 10m VS 5a

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay, looks laid back and easy going from a distance but it turns out to be tougher than it looks.

CRUISE LINER 10m VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.

Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.