Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles

From Irish Climbing Wiki

Ben Bury/ Mweelrea Scrambles

Glencullin Ben Bury .jpg

R1 Sruhauncam Gully Scramble Grade 2 with 2 Waterfalls (Possible 'Portage') 740m ascent to Peak, (4.5km)

An atmospheric and interesting gully scramble mostly grade 1 and 2 scrambling with two hard waterfalls at half height, which can be missed altogether or a rope and wet suit strongly recommended. The gully/ stream can be followed all the way to the corrie lake, or continue by ascending the Glencullin ridge to the left onto Ben Bury summit (Grade 1 scramble). It should be noted that this would be a difficult gully to escape from in an emergency.

R2 The Steps Scramble Grade 2 - (Harder good quality climbing options exist on each 'step' ranging mostly between VD-VS) Around 740m ascent, 4km to Peak The obvious stepped buttress, directly above the scree, on the right side of the main Lugmore/ Ben Bury Corrie. A series of large rock steps with a full range of possible lines and grade, ranging from easy but very exposed scrambling through to steep rock routes which have so far ranged from V Diff to VS. The rock is generally solid sandstone,with the steeper faces being cleaner than the easier chimneys and gully's,some loose sections/ blocks do exist. Protection is also generally good, with medium cams useful addition to standard rack.

At half height a large 'crevasse' type cave thing, is well worth a look, it's deep and smells strange, a caver's paradise.

R3 Glencullin Rib Scramble Grade 1/2 Around 740m Ascent, and 4.2 km to Peak (Grade 3 Start) Mostly straight forward scrambling on the large rib to the left of the steps. A good link up to the final Glencullin Ridge which leads almost to the summit of Ben Bury. Note : The start of this RIB is steep and exposed, (rope recommended), the rib eases as height is gained