Doomore Crag

From Irish Climbing Wiki

Location: Follow the Ballina road from Balisodare. After 6.4km take the road signed for Coolaney. After a further 1.6km park in 'Glenwood' car park. Take Glenwood Forestry Trail to its end (15 mins). From the end of the trail there is a track, on the left, that leads up into the forest. Follow the track and after about 10 minutes you come to a circular ruin in an opening in the forest. The crag is visible from here on the right skyline, below the summit of Doomore (272m). The track continues on the right through the forestry for a further 200 metres and when it reaches open terrain you continue on the track for a further 10/15 minutes to the base of the crag (approx 45 mins from carpark).

The crag is a mountain crag with superb views over Balisodare Bay, Sligo Bay, Inishmurray and Slieve League to the north.

The crag has an amphitheatre main wall and a number of buttresses. It faces north west. There are numerous possibilities for new routes for those prepared to clean.

Atlantic Slab

Wild Atlantic Way 20m V.Diff
Martin Daly, Brendan Proctor, 3/06/2019
At the left end of the crag there is a superb west facing slab which is only obvious when standing under the crag. It catches the afternoon/evening sun. The slab was cleaned and the first route was done on this slab. The route takes the crack line on the left of the slab. Start at the left edge of slab and gain the base of crack. Climb the crack and gain a horizontal ledge at two thirds height (crux). Follow crack to top. Protection on demand. Stake belays. There are not many routes of this grade and quality in this region. It has the makings of a classic for its grade. It has atmosphere, great views, beautiful rock and evening sunshine (when its about) etc.