Doan
J302261 The southern face of Doan presents a discontinuous series of slabs and walls which offer short but some interesting routes in grand surroundings. The most prominent features are the 'Elephant's Ear' slab in the middle of the rock mass and Pinnacle Buttress at the extreme right-hand end. There are also short crags just below the summit offering easy climbs or technical boulder problems.
The best approach is up the Ott Mountain Track from the car park (280278) on the Spelga road to the Sieve Lough Shannagh/Carn Mt col. Then contour round above Lough Shannagh to the crag, about one hour's walk. Climbs are described from left to right.
Practice Crack 10m D
Climb the crack on the furthest left-hand, small buttress.
Silent Song 12m S (3c)
The next buttress along contains a short steep wall, this can be climbed direct or from the right-hand side.
The 'Elephant's Ear' slab is the large prominent slab split in two by a vertical overlap. The right-hand slab is split by the deep forked crack of 1894.
The Secret of the Golden Flower 20m E4 5c
S. Reid, A. Whitcroft. /87.
A bold climb made even worse by the finish on very dodgy vegetation. Start beneath the elephant ear feature. Follow the obvious fault to roof to gain upper slab and groove (crux). Continue with difficulty up this protectionless groove to the obvious rightward traverse line. Gain arete and runners. Continue with caution up arete and vegetation to finish.
The Elephant's Ear * 33m VS 4c
R. Cole, M. Smith. 8/8/80.
A good route with adequate protection but for a few moves most leaders will wish the gear was just a trifle closer. Climb slab by corner until left-hand slab can be gained at heather ledge below overlap. Layback up crack and gain the top slab. Climb up rounded groove and move right at top to finish.
1894 * 30m VD
R. Cole, A. Carden. 13/4/79.
A good route despite its dirty appearance. Climb the prominent crack up the overlap and slab right of The Elephant's Ear. Move left into an awkward corner and finish more easily up wall.
The next two climbs are located on the slab right of 'Elephants Ear' slab.
Bravo Capatan * 26m E2 5c
G. Murray. 1/10/86.
This route climbs the obvious groove in slab which is deceptively awkward and involves bold but delicate laybacking. Climb arete to horizontal crack at 3m. Traverse left into groove and climb up to flake on the left. Move right across slab using shallow grooves to reach right arete and the top.
Small Blue Thing 24m VS 4c
G. Murray, A. Whitcroft. 24/8/86.
A rather unsatisfying route. Climb the right arete of the slab and move right to follow groove under roof. Then back left and up the obvious flakes to the top. Right of these routes is a mossy slab with a small cave high on the right and a pillar on its left.
Fag End ** 20m HS 4a
J. Crockard, R. Huddleston. R. Cole added a continuation from top of pillar in /79.
Surprisingly good despite its diminutive appearance. Takes the short diedre and follows the crack up the pillar, step right round rib and climb up to ledge and straight on up. For the original, poor, finish move out right below roof and bridge up to top over grass.
Bolderdash * 28m HVS (5a)
A. Carden, R. Cole. 8/82.
Again surprisingly good. Start 5m right of Fag End. A couple of steep moves lead to a delicate slab. On up past bulging block to left side of the small cave and climb the diagonal crack from the cave's roof. Then easily to top. Variation Left-Hand Finish E1 5c I. Rea, R. Bankhead. 27/4/96 Just above cave step left 2m to roof and directly up small corner.
The continuous wall of rock at the extreme right-hand end of the crag is known as Pinnacle Buttress.
Leaning Crack 14m VD
Start - at the left-hand end of Pinnacle Buttress at deep cracks formed by large pillars. Climb the flakes and finish by a deep and awkward chimney.
Numerous routes have been claimed in the vicinity of the next two routes. These however appear to be the most original and best composite lines.
Rockafella 14m S 4b
M. Rooney, T. Hawkins, D. Murray. 2/68.
Start - just right of Leaning Crack is a short left facing corner. Climb corner and finish by squeezing up the chimney to the top.
Security Check 24m HS 4b
D. Murray, T. Hawkins, M. Rooney. 2/68.
Entertaining and steep climbing but a bit grassy. Climbs the crack just right of Rockafella. Climb the crack up the steep wall, trend right to reach the corner and continue up easier ground.
Mawhinney's Birthday * 20m E1 5b
B. McBurney, D. Hughes. 11/9/82.
Just worthy of the grade with the difficulties short-lived. Start - 3m right of Security Check at the obvious corner crack up the middle of the buttress. Climb up crack to a dark corner capped by overhangs. Up corner and turn the overhang directly above.
Stop Making Sense * 20m E1 5c
G. Murray, A. Whitcroft. 24/8/86.
Start - 2m right of Mawhinney's Birthday. Climb crack and flakes to top.
Rough Trade * 20m E1 5b
M. Mills, J. Forsythe. 20/6/82.
Start - at the next crack right which curves left. Climb crack for 8m and swing into right-hand crack. Variation Direct Finish. 20m E1 (5b I. Rea, M. Rea. 11/88. Instead of climbing the right-hand crack continue directly up.
Undertow 15m VS 4c
G. Murray, A. Whitcroft. 24/8/86.
Start - at yet another crack 1m right of Rough Trade. Climb crack, step right to edge then back left to finish up slab.
