King's Rock

From Irish Climbing Wiki

This small outcrop is on the north west side of Slieve Anierin and over looks lough Allen. although short its worth a day's visit, the rock is excellent and the views from the crag spectacular. All the climbing so far has been done on a ten meter high pillar at the far right of the crag.The main crag remains untouched. There are no good anchor's on top so it is advisable to bring another rope and anchor it to the ground on the opposite side of the route you intend to climb. descent is by simul abseil or downclimb "Amber".

Directions: From Drumshanbo take the Dowra road (R207) for 11km and turn right, the crag can be seen from the road. After 2km there is a lefthand bend with a lane off to its right follow the lane up to a farmyard. there is parking for two cars about 30 meters before the farm entrance. walk back down the lane and through a gate, its easier to walk along by the forest untill level with the crag as this involves less fence hopping! the walk is about fifteen minutes.

The routes are described left to right starting on the face looking out towards lough Allen.

Kings rock.jpg

Return of the king E1 5b 10m
H.Hennessy, M. Walsh (abseil inspected) 27/3/2011
Start below an overhang just left of the arete. Climb up to a ledge at half height, place some gear in the break and climb the face direct.

Mind those cows E1 5b 10m
M.Walsh, H.Hennessy (abseil inspected) 27/3/2011
Excellent climbing up the arete just right of return of the king. start on the left hand side of the arete. From the ledge make an awkward move onto the slab finish up the arete.

Kings rock 2.jpg

The cattle theory HS 4b 10m
H.Hennessy, C.Seery, M.Walsh 27/3/2011
start right of the arete climb the center of the slab to a crack at half height, follow this to top.

Amber S 4a 8m
H.Hennessy (solo) 9/2010
Start on the right side of arete, climb up to big ledge and follow crack to top.

Uncle Tom's tractor HVS 5a 8m
M.Walsh, H.Hennessy, C.Seery (abseil inspected) 27/3/2011
climb the thin crack in the center of the face to a large ledge. climb straight up on small holds.