From Glengarriff follow the L61 to Derreenacarrin (about 5 miles). Turn right GR V 887 512) and follow road to small track on R (GR V881 517). Leave cars here. Follow track to ruins, move in a north-westerly direction across some marsh ground plus stream until you come to a slab about 200m long, rising from 3m to 25m in height. About halfway along the slab it is split by a long grass ledge. The climbs are just right of the grass ledge.
There is a small section of steep slab about 6m wide, split with a few cracks. Just right of a wide grass crack there is a small thin crack (climbed by J. Leonard). 5m right there are a twin cracks 1m apart (the left one is 'Spider'. The slab between the two was climbed by D. Byrne.
Spider 25m HS
M. McCormick, P. Coakley. June 1981.
Climb the thin left crack for 6m, then climb the slab between the twin cracks. Rejoin the left crack 3m below the top. Belay well back.
Stunt Man 25m VS
P. Coakley, M. McCormick. June 1981.
Start: 2m L of 'Spider' beneath an S-shaped slab between cracks.
Climb the slab for 10m, move right towards a bulge and over this on good holds to the top on easy ground. Poor protection.