From Irish Climbing Wiki


This information is taken from New Climbs 1978.

Oysterhaven (near Kinsale)
Approaching the area from Carrigaline, go through Nohoval and take the first turn on the L, following a cul-de-sac which leads, after two miles, to a farmhouse. There is a track from the farmhouse to the cliff. The climbs are located where the track meets the cliff, and are close together. Easy descent (leaving the climbs on the R) to a rocky platform.

From this platform R to L:

1. Corner 30ft. Diff.
P. Long, W. Gregor. March 1978.
There is a tricky move on small holds at the start, the rest is easy.

2. Foam Chimney 45ft. V. Diff.
C. O'Leary, G. O'Regan. March 1978.
Easy climbing for 30 ft., leading to a little ledge. Above this the chimney is vertical, with small holds. The crux is getting off the ledge. A little ledge on the R wall may be used to step across the chimney. Good protection.

3. Deep Chimney 55ft. S.
G. O'Regan, C. O'Leary March 1978.
A narrow deep chimney for about 25ft. leads onto an open area for about 10ft. to a ledge. The crux is getting off this ledge for the next 10 ft.(vertical). Steep to the top. Going up the R wall is easier near the top. Poor protection.

And here is the guidebook:





Scanned Text of the above Guidebook


Map. Ref. 704-485 O.S. 1/2" Sheet No 25

Compiled by P. Long.,

Oysterhaven is a very quiet scenic bay with 2 coves filled with small boats, 16 miles south of Cork city. The climbs are situated on a small promontory on the South Eastern tip of a broad headland less than a mile from the end of the surfaced road. The rock here is mainly carboniferous slates and grits end some climbs have a light coating of lichen but, in the dry, this has adhesive qualities every bit as good as the clean rock. The belays on top are minimal and in a few places the rock is fragile. As there have been very few second ascents the grades are only approximate. These climbs were done in '77 - '78.


1. Immobility S 4a 6m
P. Long (Solo)
Start 3 metres to right of normal descent route. Follow line of very thin crack. Long reach on advantage.

2. Lectern S. 6m
C. O'Leary (Solo)
Start 7 metro to right of "Immobility". Over slight bulge to top, on small holds.

3. Stepladders V.Diff 8m
S. O'Riordan (Solo)
Start: Obvious stepped shallow gully, 2 metres to right of Lectern. From foot of shelf, up awkward steps to stance. Final small chimney can be bridged or climbed directly.

4. Sockets V.Diff 9m.
P. Long (Solo)
Start 3 metres to right of 'Stepladder". Climb onto large ledge to fist sized Pocket above eye level and continue on good grips.

5. Socket-To-Me: V.Diff 8m.
C. O'Leary (solo)
Start at foot of centre of large detached block immediately to the right of alternative way down beside Socket. Straight up block and then up wall.

6. Toe-Knees-Up Diff 8m
S. O'Riordan (Solo)
Start base of block, right side. Follow edge of block to far edge and then climb either side of corner.

7. Equilibrium V.Diff 8m
P. Long (Solo)
Start base or block, right side. Layback diagonal crack to right and climb straight up to top.

8. Metastable H.S. 4a 10m.
S. O'Riordan and C. O'Leary
Start 2 metres to right of Equilibrium. Follow thin crack up slightly bulging wall and than directly to top. Strenuous.

9. Highway V.Diff 11m.
C. O'Leary and S. O'Riordan
Start 2 metres to right or Metastable. Follow crack diagonally to right and bridge straight up final small corner.

10. Pi-in-The-Sky V.Diff 10m.
C. O'Leary (Solo)
Start from top of diagonal crack of Highway. Follow ramp ascending gradually to right and then climb straight up.

11. Battenberg M.S. 20m
P. Long and J. Domoney
Start: This is the first climb on West facing wall, descend 4m from Highway to lower shelf.
(i) 8m Gradual ascent up to mentleshelf leading to platform
(11) 6m Bridge up gully at back of platform and emerge onto shelf on right via crack
(111) 6m Along shelf and climb corner on left. alternative shorter corner on right.

12. Ringroad: M.S. 12m
C. O'Leary and P. Long
Start from platform after mantleshelf move of Batternberg.
(1) 8m Move out right around block and follow ascending ramp to good stance.
(ii) 4m Bridge or climb corner on tort to join Battenberg again on final shelf.

13. Way-Out S. 6m or 9m
P. Long and C. O'Leary
Start from High-Water mark, immediately below start of Battenberg. Climb steep well to ledge end mantleshelf to join Ringroad or follow ledge to jolt Eagles Nest.

14. Eagles Nest H.S. 3c 20m.
P. long, J. Domoney and C. O'Leary
Start from H.W. mark at foot of mein chimney.
(1) 12m Straight up chimney with 2 spike belays and exit near top on right, up exposed arete to good stance
(2) 8m follow vertical crack to top.

15. Stretcher H.S. 4a 23m.
P. Long and J. Domoney
Start immediately to right of base of chimney.
(i) 6m Up on good holds over projecting block to large shelf on right.
(ii) 9m Up wall on right delicately and step over left 1 metre and up wall again to good stance on left. Strong fingers and arms needed.
(iii) 8m Step around block into scoop on right and follow diagonal ramp to left

16. Nose Cone M.S. 20m.
P. Long and J. Domoney
Start immediately to right of "Stretcher".
(i) 14m Straight up to large shelf on good steps end climb to left up exposed arete and continue to right to good stance.
(ii) 6m Climb onto block to left of scoop end then across it and finish straight up.

17. Ambulation: V.Diff 9m
P. Long (Solo)
Start from H.W. mark on right side of large cave. Climb slab at reasonable angle on small holds and finish up beside top of large corner.

18. Locomotion V.D. 9m
P. Long (Solo)
Start from H.W. mark, just to right of Ambulation. Follow line inside small corner up slab on small holds.

19. Black Crack M.S. 9m
P. long (Solo)
Start Block at H.W. mark to right of Locomotion. Step across and up into crack, awkward. Follow line of crack to top.

20. Straight Crack H.S. 4a 10m
C. Trotter and C. O.Mahony
Start from large ledge at H.W. mark around corner from Black Crack. Traverse left and down 2m into bass of large crack and then ascend using boot jams and several outside holds. Strenuous and airy.

21. Small Crack V.D. 5m.
P. Long (Solo)
Start same ledge as Black Crack. Climb crack direct from ledge.

22. Odyssey S. 75m.
P. tong (Solo)
This enjoyable traverse of the West and South facing cliffs begins at the outer corner of the cave.
(i) 25m Straight up small corner to large shelf and left up exposed arete of Nose Cone to stanve on left. Bridge or climb corner on left to final shelf of Battenberg M.S.
(ii) 25m Step across over gully end descend along ramp delicately to join Pi-In-The-Sky. Descend this ramp and near bottom step across and follow series of small ledges until a descent to detached block can be made. S.
(iii) 25m Descend far side of block and follow ledge until end of face is reached. V.D.


23. Viewpoint; V.Diff 17m.
P. Long (Solo)
Start at H.W. mark of cliff facing northwest, at rear of mein line of descent. Straight up corner on good holds and move onto face on final Sm to avoid bulge, more delicate here.

24. Outlook: V.Diff 12m.
P. Long (Solo)
Start: Same as "Viewpoint". Climb up over good steps in well on right.


25. Hang On D. 9m.
S. O'Riordan (Solo)
Start 5m to right of Quartz vein facing South.Climb up to Vee in shelf and then up crack in next block or crack on left.

26. Quartz Vein V.Diff 15m.
C. O'Leary and S. O'Riordan
Start: Base of large crack running diagonally to left. Straight up to where crack widens and step across to right and up quartz vein end finally diagonally to right.

27. Hang Up S. 20m.
P. Long and C. O'Leary
Start: Same es "Quartz Vein". Follow diagonal crack to stance on left and above stance hand traverse to right and then climb straight up corner on left.



28. Acapulco V.Diff 12m
C. O'Leary and S. O'Riordan
Start base of corner at southern end of cave. Climb corner to ledge and than move gradually left and upwards.

29. Big Chimney S 21m.
P. Long and C. O'Leary
Start base of V shaped large chimney at northern end of cave.
(i) 10m Up chimney on friction holds to small stance on right. Poor belay.
(ii) 11m Continue up chimney
Variation to pitch
(i): Climb flake on right side to stance.

30. Pinnacle Route M.S. 22m.
P. Long and S. O'Riordan
Start directly beneath overhanging pointed block 100 to right of Big Chimney.
(i) 10m Follow small fault diagonally to left and then straight up to sloping platform and along to extreme left edge.
(ii) 12m Step out around exposed corner and climb diagonally left on good holds and then tight to finish above 3m crack in small corner.

31. Stepped Corner V.Diff 17m.
C. O'Leary end P. Long
Start 5m to right of Pinnacle Route
(i) 5m Up diagonal crack and pull through narrow gap to sloping platform.
(ii) 5m Up well on right to smaller platform and move delicately around to small stance on right.
(iii) 7m A series of 3 large steps lead to top.
Variation: Platforms can be avoided by going direct.

32, Relaxez-Vous D. 12m.
P. Long (Solo)
Start 4m to right of 1st platform of Stepped Corner. This is the normal line of descent. Follow easiest line inside small corners.

33. Hang-Out S 3c 12m.
P. Long end C. Trotter
Start in corner to the left of small pool.
(i) 6m Slightly overhanging crack in corner to good stance.
(ii) 6m Up wall on good holds.

34. Hang-In M.S. 3c 10m.
P. Long and C. O'Leary
Start left edge of pool. Bridge onto separated block and across to small ledge and move right and then upwards. Than left and upwards to final shelf of Keyhole.

35. Oblivion HS 3c 8m.
P. Long and J. Domoney
Start right edge of pool. Climb directly to join Hang-In and finish at 2nd shelf of Keyhole.

36. Keyhole S 14m.
P. Long and J. Domoney
Start immediately to right of Oblivion.
(i) 3m Up small corner to small ledge. Nice choc position in hole above eye-level.
(ii) 5m Up longer corner and awkward pullover to aloping ledge.
(ill) 6m Gradual corner leading to ridge.

37. Sasanach V.Diff 18m.
C. Trotter end P. Long
Start immediately to left of overhanging corner. Up wall on good holds to large platform and then up crack in face and step out left and climb ridge along crest.