Inagh Valley

From Irish Climbing Wiki

Log an Choire Mhóir

The climbs are at the head of the more southerly of two corries overlooking Lough Inagh between Binn Doire Chláir and Binn an Choire Mhóir L815515.

Access - From the Srath Salach (Recess) to Kylemore road. Enter Derryclare Forest and nature reserve at Cúil na Ceártain. Cross the river and take the right fork when the track divides. Continue north to a small concrete bridge (3km from the forest entrance). Follow the stream out of the forest and thence towards the crag which is about one hour's walk from the bridge.

Ragged Ridge 200m D
M. Curran, J. Forsythe (alternate leads). 28.5.82.
This appears to be the ridge which was climbed by Joss, Nora, Ruth, Nick & Clodagh Lynam in Autumn 1976, and graded Moderate Takes the left hand edge of the scree gully on the left of the crag.

Deckled Edge 200m D
M. Curran/J. Forsythe alternate leads, 28th May 1982.
Takes the right hand edge of the scree gully on the left of the crag.

Herald Rib 220m VD
M. Curran/J. Forsythe alternate leads, 30th May 1982.
Start at the bottom of the obvious slab tongue at the base of the crag.
1. 130m Scramble up the tongue, across a gravel rake and belay at the top right-hand end of a second rake.
2. 42m Move up right on slab and make for a pulpit at the base of the huge shield of rock. Belay on pulpit.
3. 40m Obvious line up the middle of the shield, exiting by the W-shaped notch above. Continue up easier rock above to secluded mossy ledge.
4. 8m Step left and climb wall. Easier scrambling to the top of the crag follows.

(Repeated 24/04/22 - this route is now dangerously chossy)

The Knave 225 m VD
M. Curran/J. Forsythe alternate leads, 30th May 1982.
1. 130m As pitch 1 of Herald Rib.
2. 40m The left edge of the shield of Herald Rib is marked by a crack. Climb to another crack 8m to the left of this and parallel with it and follow it up, keeping to its left. Belay to the left at its top.
3. 25m Up slabby rock and traverse left under detached blocks to a grassy ledge and belay.
4. 30m Step up right on sloping ledges until the angle eases.
Descent is best to the right of the crag underneath some impressive panels of rock. The rock seems more shattered and protectable than Binn an tSaighdiúra.

Line of “spare ribs” c200m, V. Diff/ S (III) Conor Wonor, John O'Connor, Sandra O'Regan, 19/5/2019.

Log an Choire Bhig

This is the corrie just north of Log an Choire Mhóir. A large crag (not shown on the maps) on the southern slopes of Binn an Choire Bhig (Ben Corrbeg), grid ref. 816 532, it holds the sun for the best part of the day and the main face is quick-drying. With binoculars, the top of the crag can be seen from out on the road before entering the forest. Follow directions as for Log an Choire Mhóir. Continue heading north on foot to where the next stream crosses the road. The crag is reached in just over half-an-hour's steep walking from here, by following the stream for about ten minutes, then striking up right across the hillside. The right hand section of the crag is the lowest and the main section does not come into view until this has been passed. Climbs are described from right to left (N.B. All climbs so far have been done on sight, without prior inspection or cleaning).

Attempts to develop this crag have been hampered by poor weather but there is much scope here. The rock is quartzite, similar to Carrot Ridge etc., and is sound, though you may encounter small rocks lying on ledges or sitting in cracks, on first ascents.

20161030 143934.jpg

Righthand Crag.

Corr Chimney HS
G.Moss, E.Hackett, 30/4/1995.
The obvious deep chimney crack near the right hand end of the crag. There is a holly tree growing on a ledge at half-height.
Pitch 1.Climb the crack to a heather ledge and small holly tree. (Climb abandoned at this point because of heavy rain, 2nd pitch yet to be done)

Main Face

An abseil point has been placed (1997) above the Main Face just beside the top of Corner Climb. Check it is to your satisfaction before you use it!

Gothic Rib. 40m (50m to belay) S
G. Moss, B.Rowe, 24/5/1997.
Start at the foot of a blunt rib, just right of a large gothic recess at ground level.
Pitch 1. 25m. Climb a bulge in the rib via a short crack and continue up the slabby face of the rib to a good ledge.
Pitch 2. 15m. Climb the corner behind the belay and step right to a ledge. Move back left onto the face and finish up this. Scramble up about 10m to a belay.

Long Crack. 40m (50m to belay) HS (4b)
B. Rowe, G. Moss, 24/5/1997.
Start 4m left of the gothic recess at the foot of a crack which runs the full height of the crag.
Pitch 1. 20m. Climb the crack to a good belay ledge.
Pitch 2. 20m. Continue up the crack, slanting right to the overhang near the top. Climb this on jammed blocks and move up 10m for a belay.

Long Crack

Corner Climb 30m VS (4c)
G. Moss, B. Rowe, 25/5/1997.
Start as for Long Crack. Climb the crack for 2m then move diagonally left to gain the shallow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner, passing a good ledge at half-height, to reach a second ledge. Move left along the ledge and climb the overhang at a step to finish up the exposed wall above on small, but good holds.

Holly Arete. 25m VS (4b)
G. Moss, P. O Leary, 27/9/1997.
Start at the left end of a vegetated ramp, in a corner behind two small trees. This ramp lies above a large grey slab and is reached by a difficult scramble.
Make an exposed move out of the corner onto the arete and climb straight up over a bulge, before moving left into the corner, easier climbing leads to a belay well back from the edge. (a direct start up the slab is feasible, but it was wet at the time of the first ascent)