Cooney Rock
The crag is located 500 metres down the road before arriving at Scailp na gCapaill. 400 metres before arriving at Scailp na gCapaill there is a parking place for 3 cars at the side of the road. From the parking, walk down ( away from Scailp na gCapaill) a further 100 metres and cross a low wall on the right into forest. The crag is 20 metres ahead in the woods. Access to the top of the crag is at the right-hand side. Follow the track cut through the gorse jungle to the top. It is also the descent.
The orientation route, Codex, takes the obvious crack that splits the centre of the wall.
Codex 25 metres VS 4c
(B. Proctor M. Daly) 20/4/2019
Climb the crack passing 2 technically difficult sections. Near the top step left onto the arete and climb the wall above using perfectly shaped pockets.
Kindred Spirits 20 metres E2 5c
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 15/4/2021
Route starts 2 metres left of Codex and at the obvious 'letterbox'. Climb the wall above the letterbox and arrange gear in a rightward trending diagonal crack. Up and left of this diagonal crack there is a foothold. Make hard moves up to gain the foothold and rest. Further difficult moves (crux) and a horizontal break is reached. Easier to top.
Breithlá 25 metres VS 4c
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 24/3/2019
Route starts 4 metres left of Codex and 2 metre left of obvious 'letterbox'. The route follows a faint crack up to an overlap at 6 metres. Climb the overlap up to an overhang at 10 metres. Climb this on the right and follow crack above to top.
Choctaw 170 20 metres E2 5c
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 15/4/2021
Route starts in a groove 2 metres left of Breithlá. Climb the groove to the R.H.S. of the overhang. Arrange protection in the horizontal crack above the overhang. Move up with difficulty and get established on the horizontal crack. Continue by a combination of crimps, side pulls and smears (crux) to gain better handholds and then a small ledge and rest. Up slab more easily to top.
Bluegrass 25 metres E3 6a
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 28/3/2019
Route starts 4 metres left of Breithlá. Climb the blackish groove which trends diagonally left at first and then diagonally back right to a stance below an overlap at 7 metres (first runner). Climb this leftwards to below an overhang. Climb the overhang (hard moves) and get established on small holds (poor rest) at the base of 2 parallel faint cracks (small wire protection). Climb these with increasing difficulty until respite is reached by gaining big T.G. jugs and ledge. Easy to top and block belay.
Sligo Sloper 25 metres HVS 5a
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 29/4/2019
Route takes arete 2 metres left of Bluegrass. Slope up diagonally leftwards to reach arete. Climb this (crux) to large ledge below short corner. Up easily to top.
Black Gold 25 metres E3 6a
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 30/3/2019
Route takes the black wall right of Codex. Climb the centre of the wall on large pockets to a horizontal break at 8 metres. Arrange protection and climb the wall by difficult moves, at first on the right, to gain a sloping foothold. Step back left to a small rounded pocket on the wall. Steady oneself and use crimps and side pinches for a few moves to gain a magic jug and gear. Up easily on pockets to top.
Carpetbagger 23 metres VS 4b
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 20/4/2019
Route takes the first groove right of Black Gold. Climb up to a sloping pulpit and from here climb the groove. Step left near the top onto the arete. Climb easily to top.
Ivy Groove 23 metres HS 4a
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 20/4/2019
Route takes next groove right of Carpetbagger. Climb to the pulpit and step right into the groove. Up this passing 2 steep sections to top.
Crack a-go-go 20 metres VS 4c
(M. Daly B. Proctor) 29/4/2019
Route follows curving crack in centre of wall right of Carpetbagger. Start from large ledge. Follow line of crack to ledge below top. Up easily to finish.
