Binnian Tors
The many tors of Slieve Binnian at J320234 provide a wide scope for excellent climbing at all grades in a high expansive setting. Whilst most of the routes are short, there is a reasonable selection of longer ones and the tors also offer good bouldering especially around North Tor. However the shortness of the routes is more than adequately compensated by the grandeur of the situations. All of this combined with good weather can make a varied, quality day-out.
The two main and recommended approaches are - a) for the summit area; from the car park (345219) at the bottom of the Carrick Little Track follow the track and up the Mourne Wall on the eastern slopes. The south end and Delta Tor areas are also most easily reached by this approach. b) for the North Tor; via the Carrick Little Track and Blue Lough to the Slieve Binnian/Slieve Lamagan col, then back southwards up the northern slopes of Slieve Binnian to the tor. A more strenuous approach which has become less popular and is really only suitable for the south end is via Wee Binnian and up the line of the Mourne Wall on the south-west slopes. All approaches take from one to one and a half hours.
South Tor
This is, naturally enough, the most southerly of the tors, but not to be confused with Beta Tor which lies just uphill and to the west, and separated from South Tor by an insignificant grassy ramp/col. The uphill side of the west face of South Tor is rather broken and easy angled and leads up left to a small col. The left-hand end of this west face is bounded by a small recess with a prominent arrowhead flake. This is the line of the first route.
Brimstone * 30m VD
D. Parkinson, C. Boyd. 1/2/59.
A nice little route. Climb the arrowhead flake and finish up easy rock above.
The Last Laugh 30m HS
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
Climb the flake, 2m right of Brimstone, to a groove at 2m, on the right. Up the groove and slab above to a horizontal crack and move left to finish.
Come Uppance 18m VD
J. Forsythe, D. Carson, T. Maguire. 10/6/79.
This takes a prominent, dark, shallow, flaky groove just around to the right from Brimstone.
Bandage 37m VD
B. Lane, J. Anderson. 16/4/69.
A poor route with a fair amount of vegetation. Up the grassy cracks a few metres left of the clean slab (of Pete's Delight). Either climb straight up the curving bulge (HS) or move right and then up to a grass ledge and finish as for Standing Stone Chimney.
The large clean slab just to the left of the jumbled blocks has the following two routes -
A Walk in the Clouds * 25m E3 5c
G. Murray and party. 8/6/96.
A serious proposition with no protection using friction and tiny friable edges - the holds are a lottery! Climb up on big pockets moving left to a horizontal break. Then directly up the steep white slab above keeping left at the top.
Pete's Delight * 25m HVS 4c
P. Coakley, I. Rea. (Solo). 15/5/82.
Interesting slab climbing but devoid of protection. As for the previous route to horizontal break but step right and make thin moves up a very shallow groove. Just above an inverted flake move right to a small corner, climb up to a ledge and continue up a corner with a pillar/spike to the top.
Standing Stone Chimney 46m VD
M. McMurray, T. Nevin. 10/52.
A fairly demanding but short initial pitch leads to a long ambulatory second with possible variations.
1) 9m Climb the shallow chimney in the recess behind the large jumble of blocks.
2) 37m Step left and up moderate rock bearing left to a loose flake in a corner. Climb up and walk to belay.
Variation The Wart HS 4b .
J. Forsythe, L. Marshall. 7/6/71
Start in the grassy bay just to the right of Standing Stone Chimney. 1) 9m Climb an easy-angled slab to left-hand edge of large ledge. Step left to climb the corner/crack at the back of the huge block which forms the right-hand side of Standing Stone Chimney, then step left to the top of Standing Stone Chimney.
Savage Skies * 31m E3 6a
G. Murray, B. James. 16/9/95.
This route takes the line of scoops and small pockets directly above the belay ledge on pitch 1 of Standing Stone Chimney with a short but intimidating crux. Make a hard pull off ledge to reach pocket and scoop, followed by a difficult step to reach higher pockets and flake above. Climb the easy groove above to belay.
Tart * 33m HVS 4c
D. Rankin. 18/8/73.
This route takes the steep hanging slab above the ledge on The Wart which is not totally unprotected but tread warily. Climb an easy-angled slab as for The Wart to a large ledge at the base of the wall with a steep ramp/corner going up left and a steep curvy finger crack on the right (Phart). Climb the ramp/corner and swing left onto the steep slab. Boldly ascend groove and corner crack to the top.
Dart * 33m HVS 4c
D. Rankin. 18/8/73.
As for The Wart to the ledge and continue right around the corner and climb a short diedre/crack that splits the left-hand arete of Pochle Perilous to the top of large flake. Ascend the go-ey slab above to finish just left of Pochle Perilous.
Phart * 33m HVS 5b
P. Wright, R. Bankhead, P. Turley. 4/82
Only a direct start to Dart, but worthwhile with a well protected crux. Start on the right-hand side of the grassy bay. Climb the jug-handle crack and swing onto slab. Up this and traverse left to the ledge below the steep right-trending finger crack. Climb this (crux) to the top of the flake and finish up the go-ey slab, as for Dart.
Pochle Perilous ** 43m HS 4b
W. A. Robertson, K. W. W. Double. /51.
An obligatory Mourne classic but the difficulties are unfortunately short lived. The main feature of the climb is the large white diedre at the lower end of the West Face.
1) 18m Up cracks on the lower plinth to base of the diedre. Belay on right.
2) 25m Delectably climb the diedre to the top. Beloisen Variation An easier finish can be made just below the top by stepping right and surmounting the overhanging lip.
Variation Climb On a Thin Shadow * E3 5c
P. Hargreaves,.
2) Climb the thin, staggered cracks near the left-hand arete of the white wall. Continue up and gain ramp (as for Dart) to the top.
Variation b) Days like This E2 5b
G. Murray, K. Lindsay. 1/7/95.
The arete just right of the diedre of Pochle Perilous. 2) Up diedre of Pochle Perilous 1m then step right to arete. Climb this and surmount the overhanging lip (as for Beloisen Variation). S. McIlwaine, D. Goddard. 25/6/88
Esoteric 30m VS 4c
G. Murray, T. Mercer. 18/5/95.
Start at pocked/quartz crack right of Pochle Perilous. Easily to large block just right of the base of the diedre of Pochle Perilous (possible belay). Climb the slab on the right to bulging wall which is climbed left of a groove and continue up slab easily to the top.
The remainder of the south face right of this is rather broken and routes may be found anywhere and few difficulties are encountered. However at the right-hand end where the south and east sides meet is a short steep wall of white rock that gives the following short problem -
Spiny Norman 12m HS 4b
D. Stelfox, H. McKee, N. Stevenson. 6/76.
Up the wall just left of a block by a dubious hold (crux) and finish easily straight up.
The east side of South Tor is characterised by three rounded mini-buttresses which gradually rise in stature as one goes right. The first, left-hand mini-buttress gives a clean VD climb with ample holds, resting ledges and possible variations. The right edge, just before the grassy gully forms a blunt rib.
The Big Hype 14m HVS 5a
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
An eliminate up this rib starting at a set of flakes just left of the grassy gully. Follow these and move right around the rib into some grooves. Climb the grooves leftwards to rib and mantelshelf up to finish.
Right of the grassy recess is the middle outcrop.
Prayer 18m VS 5a
J. Anderson, P. S. Moynihan. 16/4/69.
An athletic start followed by tricky finesse. Start at the left-hand end of the middle mini-buttress. Swing up a short steep wall to a shelf. Traverse diagonally right under a second overhanging wall and delicately take twin grooves and onto the top.
Ne Obliviscaris * 30m VD
J. Anderson, J. Challenor. 1/3/58.
A fine little route, with satisfying but disjointed pitches.
1) 12m Climb the obvious open groove, to the right of Prayer, to a slab.
2) 18m From below twin grooves (of Prayer) move right up a short ramp and continue traversing right, moving up at a gap, to just above a large grass ledge. A short but pleasant crack/groove now leads left to the top.
The recess between the second and third outcrops provides Direct Route 25m M (J. R. White and party. 10/52.) but has no merit. The third mini-buttress is characterised by a steep left edge with an obvious left-facing corner, a large grassy ledge in the middle a few metres off the ground, and a deep groove at its far right-hand side.
Wild Trails 27m HVS 5a
G. Murray (Solo). 7/91.
Start at the base of the above mentioned left-facing corner. Up corner 3m and step delicately right onto edge and follow blunt arete to big slabby ledge. Step left around the edge and climb the thin crack in the wall to the top.
Step and Lep * 27m VD
M. McMurray, B. White. 10/52.
1) 18m Climb up to prominent grass ledge on the right side of the left arete, via flakes. Move up the left-slanting crack using a rocking hold, to the large ledge in the rocky bay above.
2) 9m Straight up the groove in the corner, or better, left up the pocked groove, right onto a flake and then straight up the slab just left of the corner.
Variation a) S 1) Work up the left-facing corner which gives a cleaner start.
Variation b) S
2) Continue left along pocked groove to finish delicately up the straight groove or climb the groove direct.
Van Torso 27m VD
P. Gribbon and Party.
Really only a dirty first pitch to Step and Lep. Follow the double cracks slanting up diagonally left from the large grass ledge in the middle of the outcrop to the large ledge in the rocky bay. Finish as for Step and Lep.
Variation S 1) Climb directly up using flakes to the left-hand side of the double cracks
A few metres right of Van Torso is a dirty open groove.
Pocahontas * 24m VS 4c
I. Rea, M. Rea. 14/2/87.
Although the crux is low down it has an uncanny air of unsettling most leaders. Start at the base of this dirty groove. Up to and climb the layback in the arete left of this dirty groove finishing directly up the crack in the middle of the upper slab.
Riot 24m S 4a
R. Cole, L. Carew. 17/8/69.
Climb the A-shaped slab right of the dirty groove (or up the dirty groove) and then move left onto an easy-angled slab. Climb the crack left of the niche which bulges at the start.
Grot and Groove * 24m S 3c
K. W. W. Double, T. Nevin. 11/52.
A highly enjoyable little outing.
1) 14m Climb the deep groove at the right-hand side of the outcrop, just behind a jumble of boulders. Belay in a secure niche below an overhang.
2) 10m Either exit out left and step back right and follow thin groove to the top or gain the groove directly by stepping off huge block (harder).
Olympia 20m S 3c
I. Rea, R. Bankhead. 31/8/96.
Start 2m right of Grot and Groove on top of boulders. Follow a line of holds on the slab and gain the niche (of Grot and Groove). Step onto the massive detached block and traverse along it for 3m. pull over onto the slab and follow scoops up the right side.
Beta Tor
This is just uphill from South Tor and its large slabby South Face (overlooking Little Binnian) is easily located, being a short distance to the right of the Water Commissioners Wall. The next five routes described below end on a large slabby platform below the final outcrop of the summit and descent can be made either right or left. The start of first route is found at the left edge of the slab up and left from the lowest point of the slab on a large grassy platform above a large white boulder.
Niche Route 52m HS 4b
R. R. Johnston and Party. 22/10/47.
Start in a niche formed by a huge detached triangular flake 20m.
1) 25m From the top of the flake awkwardly gain (crux) and follow the left slanting crack/groove. Follow the deeply cracked slab above.
2) 27m Up the left-hand edge of the slab and climb between flakes to the cracks above.
Organ 55m VD
I. Firth, J. Challenor. Circa 60.
Start just right of huge detached triangular flake below heather ledge.
1) 21m Up to heather ledge and layback up slabby corner (avoidable) and pull up left just under the overhang. Handy belay above the small overhang.
2) 34m Either up the groove on the right or the corner on the left and scrambling to finish.
Variation Direct Start E2 (5b.
I. Rea, R. Bankhead. 31/8/96
Up a deep wavy crack to an overlap. Layaway left to gain easy fault. Follow fault rightwards into corner to join Organ.
Angry Fool 40m HVS 5a
I. Rea, M. Rea, G. Murray. 27/6/93.
The difficulties are compressed into a few hard moves at the bulging wall. Start as for Organ. From heather ledge climb a streaked slab rightward to a pock-marked, bulging wall. Climb this on the left via an obvious jutting block, stepping right (delicate) to gain good holds and finish directly up.
Organ Pipe 45m S 4a
I. Bankhead, P. Wells. 10/6/88.
Start as for Organ. From heather ledge move right across slab to thin groove right of pock-marked bulging wall. Up this moving right at overlap past mossy patch to gain ledge on right. Continue rightwards up deep crack until possible to step left and up a crack. Easy slabs to finish.
Ancient Highway 35m E1 5c
G. Murray, K. Lindsay. 1/7/95.
The crux is a short, delicate section up a typical Mourne groove. Start 5m right of Organ in a bay below two large grassy grooves. Climb slab just left of left-hand grassy groove to join Organ Pipe but continue straight up thin groove through the overlap (crux) and easier ground to finish.
Western Dig 103m S
P. Gribbon, J. K. Millar. 29/12/52.
The difficulties are at the start and the route can be finished after a pleasant first pitch. After this the grade is VD and has a vegetated second pitch. Start near the lowest point of the slab just to the right of a black mossy streak.
1) 17m Step up short pocked wall moving left onto ledge. Continue delicately left crossing black mossy streak then back right and up to gain boulders. Follow a grass ramp leading up right passing rocky rib.
2) 24m Up slab and follow mossy fault then up right on flakes and ledges to a small cave.
3) 45m Exit cave and scramble up to the back of the slabby platform below a large crack on the right side of the summit outcrop.
4) 17m Take the large crack to the top.
Paradise and Lunch * 17m VS 4c
T. McQueen, I. Rea. 12/84.
Protection just after the crux. Start as for Western Dig. But at ledge traverse right to a short bulge (crux) and gain a shallow groove. Quit the groove to gain the right arete and continue up slab above.
Variation Some Other Rainbow 17m E1 (5c.
G. Murray, M. McNaught. /90
A direct start to Paradise and Lunch. Start 2m right of Western Dig.
The summit of Beta Tor is characterised by a steeper outcrop above the slabby platform where the third pitch of Western Dig and the other routes finish. The deep crack of the final pitch of this route is obvious above. Right of this is an obvious corner and the following micro-route is found on the steep but short right wall of the corner.
Little Rose 8m E1 5c
G. Murray, T. Mercer, B. James. 21/5/97.
Climb up to flake and the groove above.
3m left of the obvious deep crack of Western Dig is a bulging wall with a groove above giving the line of the following -
Big Bro 12m E2 5b
G. Murray, M. McNaught. 6/94.
Worthwhile with good moves but rock is a bit gritty/crumbly. Climb up wall from the left onto first break, around second bulge and then easily up groove to top. A slightly harder start directly gains the first break.
Little Bro 10m E2 5c
G. Murray, B. James. 8/6/96.
A short solo - unprotected. Start at gully wall left of Big Bro below a large horizontal pocket. Climb up to pocket and then make difficult moves using faint pock to easier slab above. 20m right and up from the start of Western Dig is a small slab lined with vertical grooves and marked on its left-hand side by a large mossy streak. It has the following three routes
Romasail * 15m VS 4b
P. Hargreaves, W. Galway. 24/5/88.
Pleasant climbing up fine rounded grooves and just merits the grade. Follow obvious left trending crack to gain clean vertical crack near the left of the slab. Up this to the top.
Hannah 15m HS
G. Murray (Solo). 7/91.
Up the groove in the middle of the slab until it is possible to step right into a heathery groove near the top.
Dominique 15m HS
G. Murray (Solo). 7/91.
Climb the grooves on the extreme right hand side of the slab.
The east side of the summit outcrop is steep and gives some short chimney problems and four mini-routes described below. At the left-hand end of this face is -
True Grit * 10m HVS 5a
A. McQuoid, P. Douglas. 6/79.
A strenuous and sustained outing. The obvious narrow corner crack, a few metres left of the most prominent chimney.
Wind of Change 10m E3 6a
G. Murray, M. Rea. 5/93.
Start 10m right of True Grit at twin grooves and right of deep cleft. Climb grooves by a series of gymnastic moves.
Trilogy 14m E3 5c
Right of Wind of Change is a wide easy angled rocky bay and on the left edge of the next buttress is a large square cave. Start at right-hand side of the cave. Climb out onto ledge and up overhanging dyke moving left to the lip which is climbed to easier ground leading to belay.
Back Burner 12m E3 (6a)
J.Gibson, J.McConville 2/8/09
The overhanging corner between ‘Trilogy’ and ‘The Message’ Start at the base of the corner climbing the good breaks on the left with good cams. Move to the right and through the steep exposed top section on slopers (crux)
20m right of the rocky bay and a few metres right of an obvious deep crack is a prominent nose of rock with a large round scoop at half-height on the right-hand edge defining the line of the following route -
The Message 12m E3 5c
G. Murray, A. McMullan. 18/5/95.
Climb the wall right of the nose in the corner until able to step onto the arete at small flake. Make a gymnastic move onto large scoop and continue up the wall above to easier ground.
Continuing further right there is a col between the north side of the tor and a small pancake buttress on the summit side. At this col, on Beta Tor, is a small semi-detached pinnacle, Capper's Pinnacle. There are short chimney problems at this north end and the east face but are usually greasy. When they are dry there is so much better on offer at the same grade elsewhere around the tors.
Capper's Pinnacle 15m VS 4c
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
Crumbly rock to the top of the pinnacle but worth it for the thrill of the jump. Climb up the flaky front of the pinnacle and jump from its top. Finish up the groove above.
Capper's Groove 12m S 3c
M. Mills, J. Forsythe. 1/8/81.
Climbs the groove and wide crack 4m to the right of the pinnacle.
Capper's Right-Hand Groove 15m D
J. Forsythe, M. Mills. 1/8/81.
Climbs the groove 3m below and 2m right of Capper's Groove.
The following four short routes are on the above mentioned small pancake buttress between Summit and Beta Tors. The first one is on the Annalong Valley side of this buttress towards its left-hand end and below a large pointed block near the top.
Hard Times 8m E1 5b
G. Murray, B. James. 22/7/95.
Climb a thin seam to the block and top.
The other three are on the Little Binnian side and 50m right of the Mourne wall at the Summit (left-hand) end of the tor near an obvious chimney and follow crumbly, even poor rock.
Marrowfat 14m HS
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
Climb rib on left of the obvious chimney.
The Nearly Man 14m HVS 5a
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
Up the left side of the rib, 2m right of the chimney, moving slightly right just below flake then straight up to the top.
We Deliver Wreaths 16m HVS 5a
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
Climb the rib, 5m right of the chimney, to a small overhang at 3m. Over this and move left into groove near the top.
Lower Summit Tor
This is downhill on the western side of the Summit Tor is a smaller almost hidden tor and for convenience is referred to as Lower Summit Tor. The left side of the tor forms a distinct edge bounded by a steep little wall with a flake system leading to a hanging groove (The Great Days.) However the right edge merges into the hillside and just left of the wall the worthless Nippon 18m D (J. Sloan, J. Murray. 17/5/64.) follows the vague rib. The routes are described from right to left.
The Homecoming 20m E1 5b
G. Murray, M. McNaught. 19/5/89.
At the right-hand end of the buttress is a wall covered in pockets and rugosities. Climb these until forced right at half height. Climb groove and slab to the top.
The One-eyed Money-Changer * 20m E2 5c
G. Murray, T. O'Dowd. 6/92.
Start about 1m left of The Homecoming below large pocket. Climb up into left-hand groove using the large pocket. Move left into curving corner and up to hanging crack and up this and groove above.
Avalon Sunset 20m HVS 5b
G. Murray, M. McNaught. 19/5/89.
An off-putting off-width which thankfully eases quickly once committed. Start below obvious wide crack in the middle of the buttress. Climb easily up to the bulging crack. Up this (crux) to gain the groove above.
Dreams and Disappointments 20m E3 6a
G. Murray, R. Purvis. 31/5/97.
Start 1m left of Avalon Sunset. Climb straight up to pocketed short wall. Up this (runner in Avalon Sunset.) and slab above trending left to join the parallel pocketed line of Friction Addiction and up this to top.
Friction Addiction * 20m E2 5c
G. Murray, M. McNaught. 19/5/89.
Delightful slab climbing. Start as for Dreams and Disappointments. Climb groove and step left to large flake, pull around corner and friction up slab using pockets. Head for right-hand pair of parallel lines of pockets directly above. Climb up these pockets and pull onto slab above and continue to the top.
Monkey Business * 20m E1 5a
I. Rea, M. Rea. 5/87.
Protection available but a delicate and nervy finale. Start about 3m right of the left edge. Up twin-grooved fault to easier middle section. Finish up a few metres right of the left edge following pocketed seams passing an obvious scoop where a step left is made from one seam to another.
The Great Days * 20m E2 6a
G. Murray. T. O'Dowd. 6/92
Start Below the hanging groove at left edge. Climb flaky wall until an entry into the crack on edge is possible and then groove above which eases near the top.
The next three short routes are on the buttress to the left and above Lower Summit Tor. There is a spacious grass ledge, below the buttress, with a large boulder on its left-hand side. Reach this ledge by scrambling up the dirty slab left of Lower Summit Tor.
Drop the E 12m HS 4a
V. Moorhead, A. Weir. 25/5/97.
Start about mid-way between two mossy streaks below a thread. Climb bulge right of thread onto a ledge. Step delicately onto slab and step right to obvious line of pockets.
Ditka * 12m VS 4c
G. Murray, T. O'Dowd. 6/92.
A very pleasant introduction to the grade. Start just left of Drop the E at large pocket Climb up to flake, step left to another large flake and climb groove to top.
Wild Swans 12m VS 4c
G. Murray, T. O'Dowd. 6/92.
An inferior partner to Ditka spoilt by the grassy ledge. Start 3m left of Ditka and just right of the boulder at a corner with a groove to its right. Climb corner and move into groove past horizontal break to top.
Summit Tor
Summit Tor is the highest outcrop and has two rusting metal posts on its summit. The following routes are on the west side -
Flamingos Fly 18m E3/4 6a
G. Murray, B. James. 16/9/95.
Start 1m left of the Mourne Wall where a line of rusted spikes run up a small left sloping groove. Climb groove to the top of flake and make hard moves to exit onto large ledge. Climb the nose of rock left of the deep crack using breaks and pockets.
Troll 18m S
C. Moore, I. Brown, W. Jenkins. 15/5/66.
A prominent dirty rib and shallow chimney 15m left of the wall.
Hokey Pokey 18m HS 4b
W. Jenkins, I. Brown, C. Moore. 15/5/66.
The manky slab 5m right of Troll, finishing up its shallow chimney.
Brylcream Corner 30m VD
C. Moore, I. Brown, W. Jenkins. 15/5/66.
The filthy rib directly below the left-hand fence post. Start on its left and take the easiest line to the top.
Challenge for Youth 20m VS 4b
G. Murray (Solo). 8/88.
Up flakes and overlaps about 6m left of Brylcream Corner, finishing up a faint groove.
The Road to Mickle Seggie * 20m E2 5b
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
Start at a fang of rock which points down from the bottom of a faint groove, 2m left of Challenge for Youth. Climb up the fang and layback the groove up towards the pancakes of rock above. From these finish on up the slab to the top.
Unlimited Edition * 20m HVS 5a
M. Manson. 4/5/80.
Start at a faint groove 2m left of The Road to Mickle Seggie. Climb up this and over a small overhang into another groove passing a thread. Up the groove or step right and up to finish easily on slab above.
My Traitors Heart * 20m HVS 5a
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
Start 1m left of Unlimited Edition. Up the slab to the obvious flakes at 3m. Climb steeply up the flakes and up the slab to finish.
Fence Direct 37m VD
P. Gribbon and Party. 15/2/53.
This very poor route is on the east side of the tor. It starts just left of the wall, goes up the slab to a grass ledge and finishes up the rounded wall above by the easiest route.
Faith? 30m S 4a
Also on this side the original Gribbon guide mentions three slab routes Faith, Hope and Charity in the area to the right of the wall. This is the best line and well worth doing. It starts 20m right of the Mourne Wall below and left of a large block split by a crack, goes up mini left-facing corner, over bulges to a small left leaning corner. Up this, then up to a short right facing corner. Climb this and the slab above.
Gamma Tor
Just north of Summit Tor, the only climbs are on its western side overlooking Silent Valley. The face has a smooth slab with distinctive vertical groove lines bounded by a huge undercut block on the left. The prominent corner formed between this block and the smooth slab is Sennapod Corner. The routes are described from right to left.
Hocus Pocus 18m VD
T. Crouch, K. Norrie. 16/9/72.
Undistinguished twin cracks 9m right of Sennapod Corner.
Western Blue 18m E1 5c
I. Rea, M. Rea, K. Lindsay. 14/2/87.
Start 1m left of the twin cracks at the right edge of the slab. Up pocked seam (crux is just after the start) and finish easily out left at the final bulge. Variation Direct Finish E1 (5c) At the final bulge continue straight up crack to finish. G. Murray, M. McNaught. 8/88
Sennapod Corner ** 18m VD
C. Nuttal. 6/72.
A lovely little route, but unfortunately 'little' is the operative word. 1) 9m Climb the prominent corner at the left-hand end of the smooth slab. 2) 9m Step right and layback up the slab.
Seminary Gates * 18m S 4a
R. Telford, J. Forsythe. 16/9/72.
Pleasant, but not as good as Sennapod Corner. Climb the finger crack on the nose to the left of Sennapod Corner and take a choice of cracks to the top.
Variation Bethanie 20m E1 (5b)
G. Murray. 1/7/95.
A boulder problem start to Seminary Gates. Climb the thin groove below and right of Seminary Gates to large ledge. Using a flake gain the edge left of Sennapod Corner and continue easily to ledge and on up crack to top as for Seminary Gates.
Julie 20m E1 5b R. Purvis,
G. Murray. 31/5/97.
Start at the base of a slab and steep headwall left of Seminary Gates. Climb slab to below obvious crack in middle of wall which is climbed passing a horizontal break.
Plundering the Spirit 20m E2 5b
G. Murray (Solo). 7/91.
A short solo - unprotected. Start 2m left of Julie. Up grooves at the left edge of the slab, near the corner. Then move to the left-hand side of the headwall using flakes and pockets and finishing boldly.
Small Talk 10m VS 4c
G. Murray, B. James. 22/7/95.
An entertaining little problem. Start below a large boulder perched on a large block forming a prominent overhang. Climb up crack direct to overhang. Climb overhang by large flake on the left and up groove to the top.
Moth Catcher 12m VS 4c
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91
This is an unidentifiable outing just right of the gap between the Gamma and Summit tors on the Carrick little side at a lump of rock left of the obvious corner. Climb niche and gain a thin groove in the slab which leads to the top.
Following the spine of Binnian from Gamma Tor to the North are the Back Castles. These mini-tors provide numerous boulder problems and lead towards a wall at the south end of Delta tor.
Delta Tor
Lies about 350m north of the summit and its southern end is marked by a distinct wall. From this wall head down hill towards the Silent Valley with the wall on the left and turn right around the corner to find the west side overlooking the Silent Valley. Most of the routes are on this west side and they are described from right to left starting from the wall. The right-hand side of the face is split by a large left slanting grassy groove feature. To the right of this feature is a steeper buttress bounded on its right-hand side by a deep, wide groove starting 5m above the ground and about 25m left of the wall. This is Evening Groove.
The Delta Force 12m HVS 4c
G. Murray. 10/85.
Climb the flake then move to right-hand groove on the small facet of rock between Evening Groove and the easy gully to the right.
Evening Groove 12m S 4a
J. Forsythe, R. Telford. 16/9/72.
The above mentioned wide groove which bounds the steeper part of the buttress on its immediate right.
True Lies * 20m E2 5b
G. Murray. 5/96.
Bold after the flake on small but positive holds. Start 2m left of Evening Groove at obvious leftwards sloping crack. Up to ledge. Surmount flake and then climb the pockets on the right edge finishing up Evening Wall.
Evening Wall * 25m HVS 5a
First Ascent Unknown.
This route gives a good fight and the crack is lined with only slightly coarse sand paper. Climb the deep, steep crack about 5m left of Evening Groove.
The groove in the corner 2m left of Evening Wall has been climbed at HS.
McGuinness's Route 20m
D J. McGuinness. 7/5/78.
Climb the shallow black-streaked double groove 4m left of Evening Wall, finishing at a miniature col.
The wall left of McGuinness's Route is easy angled and seamed with vertical faults. These are, from right to left -
The Right One 15m VD
J. Forsythe. 19/6/81.
Start about 2m left of the right edge. Up slab to gain crack on right side of small indefinite pillar. Continue up groove from top of pinnacle.
Evening All 15m VD
J. Forsythe. 20/6/81.
The deeper groove 1m left of The Right One.
No Limits 15m E2 6a
G. Murray, C. Cartwright. 30/9/86.
Starts about 1.5m left of Evening All and climbs the bulging wall (crux) and shallow groove.
Tooth and Nail 15m S
J. Forsythe. 19/6/81.
The groove 2m left of No Limits.
Snake In The Grass 15m VD
J. Forsythe. 19/6/81.
The grass-filled crack 2m left of Tooth and Nail.
One Leg Samba 13m VD
J. Forsythe. 7/5/78.
The crack about 1m left again and just right of the blunt arete.
The crag now becomes more broken but about 30m left of One Leg Samba there is a small south-facing facet.
Small Change 10m VS 4c
G. Murray. 5/96.
Interesting steep climbing spoilt by a dirty finish. Start at the right-hand end of this facet below large pocket. Climb flakes passing large pocket, to difficult finishing moves.
Lorry 10m HS 4b
J. Forsythe, D. Pyper. 25/4/82.
Takes the wall and short deep crack up the middle of the facet.
Left of Lorry the end of the tor presents a small buttress facing west i.e. towards Silent Valley.
Delta Arete 20m D
J. Forsythe. 19/6/81.
Climb the indefinite arete at the left edge of this small face up to a ledge below where the arete is better defined. Step right and up groove to top.
At the extreme north end of the tor is a steep wall facing North Tor and overlooking Binnian Lough. If approaching from the routes on the Silent Valley side of the crag continue on round left of Delta Arete and passing a deep crack 10m left of the wall's right-hand edge. The climbs although short are entertaining and should not be dismissed because of the sunless aspect.
Cabin Fever 10m VS 5a
I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90.
A committing start on positive holds leads to an awkward finish. Start at a thin vertical seam 2m left of this deep crack. Up seam to horizontal break. Step right and finish up left trending crack.
High Country 10m HVS 5a
I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90.
More in this climb than it looks. Start at base of arete 2m left of Cabin Fever. Up arete to overhang. Step delicately right and finish straight up.
Something Else 13m S 4a
K. Lindsay, I. Rea. 13/9/90.
The obvious blocky arete 5m left of High Country finishing right at the top (easier on the left).
The Azure 15m HVS 5a
I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90.
Another route with a few thought provoking moves. Start the blunt rib 4m left of the obvious blocky arete of Something Else. Up flakes and edges to ledge below inset block. Traverse right and then directly up rib to ledge on left, finishing with a short traverse right into chimney at the top.
Jabberwock Tor
is the next tor immediately north and presents an excellent steep wall facing the Silent Valley. The right side of this wall has two distinct crack/seams and only the right-hand one is continuous giving the line of Psycho Killer. The first route is located right, around the corner on the south facing side, with a large flake below it and an obvious deep groove.
Streets of Gold 20m E1 5b
G. Murray. 6/94.
Start at wide groove between large flake and wall. Back and foot up flake to reach good hold on wall. Traverse right across wall for 2m to reach groove and continue up to where it widens and on up to the top.
Near the right edge of the west wall and just right of the crack line of Psycho Killer is a little bay.
Uncharted Territory E6 6c ** 10m
Andrew Marshall, Craig Hiller. 11/12/07(Headpoint)
Start 10m up the slope from Spectre where a horizontal break leads to a flake with pockets above. Traverse along the horizontal break until the flake is reached. A hard move off the flake leads to the pockets, a little exposure and the top comes into reach.
Spectre ** 20m E3 5c
C. Cartwright, G. Murray. 30/9/86.
A fine contrasting route - strenuous at the start leads to a delicate finale. Start in the little bay below the short corner capped by a small overhang. Climb thin crack to this small overhang and gain the right-hand groove above with difficulty. Step back left to climb wall and finish by left-hand groove.
Psycho Killer ** 20m E3 6a
G. Murray, C. Cartwright. 30/9/86.
A varied route taking the previously mentioned right-hand continuous crack with a serious and committing start. Start at the shallow groove just left of the bay. Up the groove and crack above, finishing up pock marks in the corner above the ledge.
We're All learning E6 6c *** 15m
R. Bell, A. Marshal, R. Druce. 1/8/05(Top roped prior to ascent)
The layback crack left of Psychokiller is as good as it looks. Climb the crack untill it disappears 4m from the top. Continue regardless.
The Quick and the Dead E5/6 6b ** 25m
A. Marshall, S. Gordon. 9/06/06
Take the crack 2m left of 'We're All Learning' and make moves up the crack to a stance just over half height. Arrange protection and launch into a series of strenuous moves to reach the top. (Headpoint)
The left-hand end of the wall is bounded by an easy gully.
Leap of Faith 30m E4 6a
G. Murray, M. McNaught. 6/94.
Protection available but don't test it! Start about 20m right of the gully at the base of a clean groove with obvious bulge at mid-height and 2m left of grassy/green groove. Climb directly up to bulge and make a hard move to reach flake on right. Then move back into groove and climb groove to the top.
Jabberwock * 30m HVS 4c
J. Forsythe, L. Marshall, M. Popplestone. 7/6/71.
A fine route with a short but bold crux. Start about 5m left of Leap of Faith at a quartz vein. Climb the vein past a large pocket and on up stepping left to a ledge below the curving crack. Proceed awkwardly using this crack and pock marks on the right wall, to gain better holds on the right. Up groove to grass ledge and finish via the obvious crack.
Kindergarten Kop 30m El 5b
G. Murray, M. McNaught. 6/91.
Interesting climbing with the mossy groove cleaner than it looks. Start 3m left of Jabberwock. Climb up the thin quartz vein to slanting break and on up groove to large ledge of Jabberwock. Traverse a few metres right into a mossy groove (directly above the start of Jabberwock) and move up until you can reach a crack on the left and continue to the top.
The Terminator * 25m E4 6a
G. Murray, C. Cartwright. 30/9/86.
Doubtful protection then a bold rounded finish. Follow the flutings on the left edge of the right wall of the gully, occasionally using the knobbed vein on the right.
Commando 15m VS 4c
G. Murray, M. McNaught. 6/91.
Start in the gully left of The Terminator. Climb the set of flakes that trend left from the lowest point available in the gully and finish straight up.
Sad Man's Cleft S
On the north side of the tor near the path is a usually damp right-angled chimney/corner which has been climbed
Invisible Hands 20m VS 4b
I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90.
Start 1m right of this at an obvious hand crack on the right-hand edge of the wall formed by the corner. Climb this to a big ledge. Up awkward corner at back of ledge finishing right.
Better Days * 8m E1 5c
G. Murray, B. James. 5/8/95.
Climb the left-hand edge of the left-hand wall up flake and make a hard move (crux) to reach the top.
The next tor to the north is easy angled and of no interest.
North Tor
North Tor is the most satisfying of all the tors and an excellent venue for the middle grade climber. Although consisting of a large jumble of separate outcrops, it can most easily be divided into two separate blocks with one group of outcrops trending towards the Annalong Valley side, and the other trending along the spine of Binnian itself, with a prominent boulder-strewn col separating the two. For the purposes of route description the col will be used as a starting point, taking the Annalong side outcrops first and going anticlockwise.
Dreadlocks Holiday * 35m VS 5a
G. McCullough, M. McNaught. 12/9/81.
The difficulties are short lived but the crux is quite technical. Start at the col to the right of massive subsidiary slabby block. Up ramp and take the easy wide fault to finish up the prominent right trending finger crack which splits the steep slab facing Ben Crom. Variation Direct Start HS 4c Much more interesting than the original start. Start at inverted L-shaped crack on right-hand side of huge pointed flake. Using small flakes left of crack gain shelf. Up short corner and trend left to join the finger crack of Dreadlocks Holiday at large pocket.
A variation finish 5c (G. Murray. 31//5/97.) moves left after the crux of Dreadlocks Holiday to a pocket, then up a slab to ledge, and a thin seam just left of a pocket. J. Herron. 12/92. (Note: The variation seems to be attributed to G. Murray and J Herron on different dates. Not sure which is correct).
Hombre * E4 6a
Eddie Cooper, Dave Hamill & Jeremy Suffern 26-6-2005
Follow Dreadlocks Holiday dir. to a massive thread. Step down then right to gain a good pocket and short but absorbing traverse line leading to the arete(good 2.5 friend on right). Follow arete to top.
Thrill issues of the Jellyman ** E6 6b
Eddie Cooper, Dave Hamill & Jeremy Suffern 26-6-2005
Follow Dreadlocks Holiday dir. to a massive thread. Step down then right to gain a good pocket and short but absorbing traverse line leading to the arete(good 2.5 friend on right). Follow arete to top.
The Pooka MacPhellimey * 35m E1 5b
G. McCullough, T. Spiers (previously top-roped). 11/7/82.
A nice route with two contrasting difficult sections - a technical start followed by a few delicate and worrying moves. Start at the col at the base of the prominent sharp arete on the right. Layback up the arete, stepping right to horizontal break. Climb slab at its shallowest point, climb crack in corner and out left at final overhang to finish up by pocket.
Cajun Stomp * 20m VS 4b
I. Rea, G. Murray. 18/10/85.
It is permissible to place runners in the corner crack to protect the crux! Start up and right of The Pooka MacPhellimey is an obvious horizontal fault crossing the whole slab, start at its right end. Follow the fault until below the slabby blunt rib right of the corner crack. Go up this (crux) to overhang and traverse right to finish.
Gotta Go Back * 14m El 5a
G. Murray. 19/5/89.
A tricky start and a bold finish. Start 2m left of Cajun Stomp. Climb wall on flat holds to break of Cajun Stomp. Directly up slab above just left of obvious curving groove. Down and right of the above, the next obvious feature is a very steep nose with a deep cleft on its left-hand side.
Rhino Route * 18m D
P. Gribbon, M. McMurray. 20/9/53.
Takes the deep cleft.
Dr. Strabismus 20m VS 4c
G. McCullough. Circa /80.
Climbs a short bulging slab 4m left of Rhino Route and finishes up the left-leaning hanging crack above (very awkward).
Electra ** 20m E1 5b
I. Rea. G. Murray. 18/10/85.
Absolutely delightful climbing from start to finish. Start from the short subsidiary gully about 10m right of Rhino Route. Climb obvious flake system to bulge at 10m. Traverse left and make hard moves (crux) to stand on sloping ledge. Finish up right. add comment
I Am Not Spiderman ** E4 6a
Eddie Cooper, Anthony 'the dude' Warnock, Dave Hamill 2nd April 2005
Start 8 metres left of Electra. Climb the arete to a ledge at 5m and move right to an awkward groove. From the top of the groove balance up right to a good hold at the end of the Electra traverse. Make tricky moves left to a flake which may allow the top to be reached.
Eazy Now * E6 6c
James Pearson, Simon Moore Easter 2004 (Headpoint)
10 metres to the right of Electra just around the corner, climbs the Z crack to its end with a hideous 6c mantle over the top. Short and sweet.
Below and right of Electra there is one more sizeable outcrop and then the tor peters out into the hillside. This outcrop has four routes.
Domino 15m HVS 4c
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
Start at the left edge of the above mentioned buttress, left of grassy groove. Move up then right into a shallow groove. Climb the groove and move back left to the rib and then on up to the top.
Moondance 15m HVS 4c
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
Start as for Domino. But after groove move right across a ledge to a series of flakes which are followed to the finishing slab at the top.
Wildwood Flower 20m VS 4c
I. Rea, M. Rea, R. Bankhead. 27/9/87.
Start at the lowest point of the buttress. Up via large hollow flake and cross overlap above on the left (crux) then easily to the top.
Famous for Wheaten Bread 20m HVS 5a
G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.
Start 2m right of Wildwood Flower. Up faint slanting groove then climb up using pockets (crux). Continue more easily to the rib on the right and follow the slab, just at the edge, to the top.
Continuing around the tor it starts to rise and presents a wall facing Ben Crom which gradually increases in size towards the boulder-strewn col. The best way to reach these routes is to return to the boulder-strewn col and continue on to the left side of this wall.
Bendies 10m HS 4b
R. Cole, M. Mills. 4/4/76
On the left side of the wall is a grassy right-trending gully. The route starts at the foot of the gully and climbs the crack on the left and the bulging wall above.
Warming Up 12m VD
J. Forsythe. (Solo). 20/6/81.
Start at a dirty right-trending fault 5m right of Bendies. Up fault and finish via twin cracks on the left.
The next two routes are about 10m right of the Bendies gully at a prominent left arching corner/groove.
Living In A Heartache * 22m VS 4c
G. Murray. 3/6/85.
A short climb but a lot in it with a thoughtful crux. Start 3m left of above mentioned arching corner/groove at a pocket. Climb wall by flakes, trending left to large flake. Up easily right to curving crack. Move right with trepidation to nose and onto ledge. Over slight bulge to top.
Left of Centre 25m E1 5b
G. Murray, R. Bankhead. 23/5/87.
Interesting climbing but a bit disjointed. Start at the left arching corner/groove. Climb left arching corner/groove until it is possible to step right onto ledge and up mini left facing corner to a good hold. Traverse right using big pockets and gain ledge on right. Keep traversing right and up broken fault.
Grimcrack 25m S 4a
M. Mills, J. Forsythe. 20/6/81.
Start 5m right of the above mentioned arching corner/groove. Climb the hollow slab and go up left to very short deep crack with a sod at its base. Mantelshelf up and finish out right passing another grass ledge and up a broken fault.
Pack of Hounds 25m VD
J. Forsythe, M. Mills. 20/6/81.
Start 5m right of Grimcrack at a series of right-pointing noses the lowest of which resembles a dog's head. Climb up these flakes and finish up the slabs above.
North Route 30m D
G. F. Martin and Party. 19/9/37.
A pleasant, meandering route with a number of variations. Start immediately left of a very smooth subsidiary slab near right-hand end of the face. Up right to grass ledge. From here two main alternatives are - a) move back left via large block, then easiest exit is left again and up blocks. B) up cleft and move right along ledge, then straight up to top. Variation Memories 30m VS 5aStart 2m right of North Route and left of Dreadlocks Holiday. Up a smooth, protectionless slab, trending right and step back left (crux). Finish as for North Route. G. Murray, M. McNaught. 5/91
The Mushroom Boyz 14m E7 6c
Simon Moore Aug 2003 top roped before the ascent
Climbs the blank looking 45 ft slab and arete starting at the base of the obvious arete about 10m right of the start of North Route. The route is protected?? by a purple alien on two cams only and a shit rp1, but the fall regardless would be pretty bad. Would be an amazing onsight if anyone could pull it off as it is quite technical.
I Am Spiderman ** E6 6c
Ricky Bell, Ali Wilson, Paul Swail Easter 2004 (Headpoint)
Just around the corner (in the gap) 20 metres to the right of the Mushroom Boyz. Climbs the groove project below the arcing arête starting up the diagonal hand crack, entering the groove with difficulty, exiting on a hard mono move.
Crystal Methods E8/9 6c***
Simon Moore 22/10/05 (toproped prior to first ascent).
Climb the obvious blunt, blank arete facing I am Spiderman from the ground. Gear is available at around 12 feet.
The rest of the routes now described are on the tor which lies roughly in a north/south direction and which presents two steep faces on its east and west sides. From the boulder-strewn col this tor is characterised by a smaller separate outcrop, an easy gully to its left and then the greater bulk of the Main Tor.
First Blood 12m E1 5c
G. Murray, I. Rea. 18/10/85.
Takes the left side of the smaller outcrop at the col, starting just right of the gully. Climb the thin seam on the left edge of the slab, traverse right and finish up the hanging crack on the left edge of the dark chimney.
Q Tips 14m VS 4c
G. Murray, R. Bankhead. 23/5/87.
Start 2m right of Fascist Architecture. Climb groove and then steep wall above on the left.
Fascist Architecture 14m HVS 5b
G. Murray, P. Gribben. 4/6/85.
Start at the foot of the pocked right-hand arete of the main tor, left of the easy gully. Climb arete to parallel cracks and good spike. Continue up the left-hand crack with difficulty to the top.
Rankin's Crack * 12m HS 4b
A good exercise in crack climbing. The obvious deep corner crack left of Fascist Architecture.
Jack's Crack 18m HVS 5a
The thin crack in the recess left of Rankin's Crack.
Down and left of Jack's Crack the face is characterised by an obvious rightward diagonal crack which peters out just below the top and gives the line of Tolerance. Two other independent routes have been constructed on this face from one complete original route and two later variations. The parentage of the original route is unknown, the two later variations are the progeny of T. McQueen and independently G. McCullough, the former in '85 and the latter a few years earlier.
Screamers ** 30m VS 5a
A good climb with the technical crux at the start. Start about 10m right of the obvious rightward diagonal crack at the foot of another though shorter right-trending crack. Follow flakes diagonally up left, cross the main diagonal crack and gain very small right-facing corner crack. Up this and finish up right-trending crack.
Tolerance * 20m E7 6b
J. Dunne (Solo, after being top-roped prior to ascent). 8/94.
Start just left of Screamers. Climb directly up the easier lower slab and move directly up the steep wall, right of the obvious diagonal crack, on small edges to gain holds in base of groove. A nasty mantelshelf gains the groove and pull up right then more easily to the top.
The Penguin on Newcastle Beach * 30m E1 5b
Another good route named in dedication to a proprietor of the local climbing shop who mistook a damaged guillemot for a penguin and telephoned the RSPB with news of his discovery! (For a price he can be named!!) Start at the foot of the main crack. Go up left and climb short, bulging crack to ledge. Follow the thin crack on the right to the top.
The Enemy Within E4/5 6b **
A.Marshall, A.Miller 23/8/06 (Headpoint)
Start as for The Penguin on Newcastle Beach. Climb the rightward trending crack leading through Screamers and make a delicate step right to gain the flake of Tolerance.
On The Move 20m HVS 5a
I. Rea, M. Rea, R. Bankhead. 2/9/87.
Bad technique on the initial crack will leave your hands in a mess. Start at the col left of Screamers and right of Kimmage Groove where an obvious thin crack meets a left-slanting hand crack. Climb left-slanting crack, traverse left passing Kimmage Groove and continue left to big flake on York Street. Follow this for a few moves until possible to traverse right on well spread flat holds into Kimmage Groove and up to top.
The next routes lie on the opposite side of the tor. This, Silent Valley i.e. West side of North Tor is characterised at its right-hand side by two large outcrops split by the block-filled Tunnel Gully.
Kimmage Groove ** 30m S 4a
J. Morrison, P. Kenny. 13/5/51.
A fine route but with poor protection in the upper part - no place for the jitters. Start 2m right of York Street. Climb up fluted arete to ledge and finish up the crack in the slab above. The best of the easier routes on the tor.
York Street * 30m HS 4b
F. Winder, C. McCormack, P. Gribbon. 24/4/55.
A good old fashioned HS i.e. hard for the grade but well protected and an airy finish. Climb the single crack which leads to the double cracks on the wall just right of Tunnel Gully.
Fuzzy Logic HVS, 4c 30m *
C.Hiller, A Miller 23/8/06
Start as for York Street. Climb for about 5m to below the main twin cracks. Step out right to below the blunt arete and just right again continue up on a thin side pull to pockets. Move left to a large spike on the arete and arrange good protection. From here continue straight up the slab (no gear) to belay.
Tunnel Gully 30m D
Gives a pleasant clamber up the previously mentioned cleft and is harder than it looks.
Zuma * 20m HS 4b
I. Rea, M. Rea. 1/7/84.
Start immediately left of Tunnel Gully. Climb recessed crack and exit left. Traverse 2m left to large crystal pocket of Lancastration. Up pockets to final bulging wall, traverse right under it and finish up edge.
Militant Tendency * 20m HVS 5a
G. Murray, I. Rea. 18/10/85.
Start at groove 2m left of Zuma. Climb just left of groove to pockets. Step right into groove, go up and finish via right edge of slab as for Zuma.
Eos * 20m HVS 5a
I. Rea, G. Murray. 18/10/85.
Start 5m left of Zuma below an obvious black triangular overhang. Go up and pull onto right rib. A few moves up wall until possible to reach good hold at bottom of crack on left. Up crack and finish via right edge of slab as for Zuma. Variation
Saloon Bar Soviet * 20m HVS 5c
P. Holmes, M. McNaught.1/6/85.
Just one or two viscous moves explain the grade. Start just left of Eos. Climb the steep dogleg corner to a ledge. Finish by any of the other routes on the slab.
Lancastration ** 30m VS 4c
J. Leyland, P. Grindley. 27/3/59.
A fine combination of athleticism and delicacy. Start 5m left of Saloon Bar Soviet at a shallow corner with a large flake half way up it. From the left go up and gain deep crack on the right. Traverse right around the arete and go up the slab above via large crystal pocket, finishing up the right-hand arm of the Y crack. Variation Impending Bloom * E2 (5b). A direct start to Lancastration at a hanging crack 4m right of the normal start. Up groove using obvious jug and step left using pocket in steep slab to gain the dogleg crack. Finish up Lancastration. A. Weir, S. Armstrong.13/9/92
Lockjaw 30m HVS 5a
P. Hargreaves, A. Whitcroft. 22/8/87.
Really only a short variation but just enjoy the feel of that rough granite. Start as for Lancastration. Continue up corner to overhanging break. Continue to right and up. Left of Lancastration is a gap and then another smaller outcrop.
Meanstreak * 22m VS 4c
T. Snaith. 5/6/82.
A mouth watering off-size crack with the squirmiest exit in the Mournes - mere words cannot do it justice! Start at the right-hand side of this outcrop at an obvious large quartzy pocket. Up crack taking the left-hand branch and finish up chimney.
Blood on the Cracks * 30m E1 5c
G. Murray. 3/6/85.
Deceptive with a frustrating crux. Start 3m left of Meanstreak. Climb crack and make hard moves into left-hand groove. Up groove and move right on underclings. Finish up chimney.
Bouldering
Left and slightly lower down from the outcrop of Wildwood Flower is a large boulder which has a number of problems including two obvious grassy cracks running down its right-hand side. These are -Higher Ground 5b/c
5b/c the left-hand crack that runs up the right side; Wavelength 4c the right-hand grassy groove. Rave On 5a the flutes and scoops on the left side of the boulder; John Dunne 5a the obvious scoop 2m right.
On the next boulder left - Enlightenment 5b pull up on horizontal flakes at the left-hand side Gloria 4b 3m right, the flakes and easily up slab above.
20m left of the previous boulder and at about the same level is a separate facet of rock with a large boulder sitting in front. Near the right-hand edge is Mariposa 5b (I. Rea. 27/9/87.) which takes the edges and scoops at a large black and white discoloration. Left of this another problem starts from the top of the cleft formed by the large boulder. Step across the cleft and layback up the flake to the top
Around the corner and left of this boulder is Coney Island 5c, the rib with obvious scoop. On the next boulder left is Common One 4b the scooped white wall and into a slot at the top. On the pointed boulder nearest the path and left of Common One is Beautiful World 5c. Pull up onto small diagonal dyke traverse 1m until able to finish by pockets. All unaccredited descriptions G. Murray. 5/91. Some have been done before though never recorded (as usual).
See also Binnian Lough Crag
