A very imposing crag above the Blacklion to Florencecourt road opposite Gortatole OEC. (Grid Ref. 110364, Sheet 26, Lough Allen) Routes are found on the extreme left on a gigantic detached flake, The Aiguille, distinguishable from a distance. It is designated a Nature Reserve. There are some seasonal restrictions. Climbers would be wise to contact Gortatole OEC (0365 348888) prior to arrival.
FANDANGO 40m VS 4b, 4c
Takes the obvious offwidth crack on the left of the Aiguille.
BLACK RHUMBA 44m E2 5c, 4c
R.Huddleston, R.Finlay (originally climbed as A2)M. Smith, A. Devlin 18th April 1982
1) 24m Bridge and jam corner to big overhang. Use ivy to move right to small ledge. Climb crack to second overhang. Undercut hand-jam to reach finger-jam on right above and gain off-width for one move (crux). Hand-jam crack until angle eases. Belay on grass ledge below second offwidth.
2) 20m Climb off-width to chockstone. Move left onto wall and gain a tree. Climb chimney to top.
THE LONGEST DAY 44m E2 5b, 5b
P.Nolan, D.Scott 21st June 1991
Start just to the right of an area of huge hanging curtains of ivy below a clean wide crack. 1) Climb the crack which is hard at the start and eases as height is gained. Belay on the sloping ledge. 2) Bridge and jam the steep crack above.
ASHTREE WALTZ 45m D
R.Finlay, R.Livingstone 1978
Climbs the tree filled gully on the right of the Aiguille.
DESCENT ROUTE D
M.Smith, A.Devlin 1983
Start at right end of meadow at centre of crag. D for first 5m then scramble and walk along ramp to top.