Cliffs Of Moher

From Irish Climbing Wiki


These cliffs are unlikely to become popular, at least in the foreseeable future, given their serious nature and the difficulties of access. Access would be either by a super ab. or by boat. The following adventurous outings are included for the record. GR R033913

M. Fowler, N. Duggan, S. Sustad, May 1990.
This is the stack beneath Moher. Start near the left-hand side of the seaward face.
1/. 24m 5a Climb up a short wall to gain an open corner leading to an overhang. Traverse left beneath this and go up to a ledge on the left (northwest) arete. Traverse 10m right to belay beneath a corner.
2/. 21m 4c Climb the corner until it is possible to traverse easily right along a ledge to the wide crack leading up to behind a spectacular pinnacle. Belay behind the pinnacle.
3/. 22m 4c Move down right to a ledge and follow a crack and groove system to exit onto the south face. Alternatively back and foot up between the flake/pinnacle and the wall to reach the same point. Trend slightly right to gain the top via a short mole chimney.

S. Sustad, M. Fowler (alternate leads) May 1990.
Climbs the buttress beneath O Brien's Tower . Start 30m left of the crest of the buttress at a crack.
1/. 70m Climb up the crack for 30m to a traverse beneath overhangs. Traverse right to the west of the buttress and 10m round the corner to a crack which is climbed for 30m to a stance.
2/. 33m 4c Climb the crack just L of the stance which trends up L-wards and leads (via a short wide section) to a ledge . Move slightly L and climb a chimney system which leads to a good stance behind a prominent tower.
3/. 22m 4c Climb the crack line on the R and the groove on the R side of a pillar of rock to reach its top. Move up R for 10m to a ledge beneath a crack.
4/. 22m 5a/b Climb the crack to gain a niche. Leave this by a crack on its L side to gain a ledge just beneath the grassy shoulder.
5/. 27m A short wall leads to the grass. This leads easily to beneath the upper walls.
6/. 33m Easy climbing to below the prominent fault line.
7/. 18m 5b Climb to the obvious overhang and pass this on the L with difficulty. Belay 20m higher.
8/. 24m Continue in the fault line with much grass to gain a R-trending grassy ramp which leads to a stance beneath a long band of overhangs.
9/. 45m 5b Walk L-wards for 50m to a grassy break in the overhang. Make a difficult pull over this to gain grass leading to O'Briens Tower.

J.O'Sullivan, P. Stritch, May 2017.
The second smaller sea stack about a mile south of Braunaunmore.
On the East side of the stack there is a small crack, on the right of it, there are steps up to a large ledge at the bottom of the stack (plenty of room for a couple of kayaks). Make an easy move up to a higher ledge, from here the climb begins.
Scramble up easy terrain, following the crack to the left up the stack for the first third of the route. Continue to follow the crack up a shallow corner to a slight overhang. Move right and scramble the last third of the route with no gear. Belay off slings at the top, one place for a large nut. Watch out for the birds and loose rock!