Binn Braon

From Irish Climbing Wiki

These climbs are on the north-west face of the mountain within L7852. Approach via Gleann Eidneach to Mám Eidhneach, go straight through the gap and then keep left to find a faint sheep-track which contours across the upper edge of the scree beside the rocky steeper slopes of Binn Braoin. Pass a rockface with a gully on its right and cross the forestry boundary fence where it ends at the rock. A short way further along the track a big clean slab comes into view above on the left. Scramble up to the foot of the crag.

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Sundance 131m V Diff
D. Short, J. Lynam, (shared leads) 2nd June 1985.
Start on a heathery ramp sloping up to the left just beside a vague break in the slab.
1. 35m Climb on clean rock just left of the break, surmount a small overhang and continue more or less straight up on small but solid holds. At about 30m a small bulge is climbed and the route goes a little right (some loose rock) into a little recess.
2. 38m Move left out of the recess and continue up. After about 10m the angle relents and easier climbing leads to a big heather shoulder. Walk across this (50m) to the foot of the second slab aiming for the lowest point on the left.
3. 33m Climb the wall, trending right, and continue up the centre of the slab. Finish through a notch to a good ledge.
4. 25m Climb easily up a rib behind the ledge and continue to easy ground.

The next routes finish approximately level with pitch 2 of "Sundance". Descent is via a tricky gully to the right


G. Galligan, S.O Hanlon, 5/5/2012
Takes a straight line up the middle of the crag.
1. 28m. Start at the centre of the main face, halfway up the left-trending grass ramp. Climb the compact wall up to the start of the buttress on the left-hand side of the large obvious roof. Avoid the roof, progressing up the buttress to belay at a ledge at roof level.
2. 27m. Climb the short, curved staircase on the left. Continue up a shallow groove to a wall. Ascend the wall, avoiding the arête on the left, to reach a bulge with a deep vertical crack in its centre. Climb the bulge to gain easier ground above.

BLIND FAITH 88m S(3a, 4a, 3a)
P. O Leary, G. Galligan (alt leads), 6/5/2012
1. 30m. Start as per ‘Rolling Stones’ in the centre of the lower wall to reach the start of the buttress to the left-hand side and below the roof. Traverse right and upwards to the right-hand corner under the roof to belay.
2. 38m. Step out right 3 metres. Move up, trending slightly rightwards for 15m to a short groove. Climb the groove to a ledge and short blocky wall. Continue up to gain easier ground.
3. 20m. Climb the remaining slabs to a wide grassy terrace.

STONED & STARVING 75m S (-, 4a)
G. Galligan, S.O Hanlon, 14/9/2014
Start at right end of grassy ledge at the end of a small roof.
1. 30m. Ascend slabby wall directly to the right-hand end of the main roof. Belay at this point (same belay as per Blind Faith).
2. 45m. Step right onto slab and move up 5 metres to a small overhang. Continue left and up to directly above the belay point, onto ledges. Resist the temptation to continue left onto grass ledges. Instead climb the groove above into the obvious overhang and turn it on the left. Proceed upwards on easy ground until a suitable belay point is found.

R. MacCallum, G. Galligan (alt leads), 4/6/2012
Takes a line to the right of the main overhang, at the right edge of the face. Start at right end of grassy ledge.
1. 30m. Ascend slabby wall directly to below obvious slab, down and right of main overhang. Belay at this point.
2. 45m. Traverse right across slab to right edge and ascend directly by steep walls on good holds to below steep obvious bulge. Surmount bulge and continue directly up easier walls and slabs to block belay.

R. MacCallum, G. Galligan (alt leads), 4/6/2012
Starts up and left of horizontal grassy ledge. 1. 45m. Climb slabby walls on good holds directly to cross left-slanting heather groove; continue up slabby walls to the edge of the main face to belay. 2. 40m. Continue above on good slabs and surmount obvious cracked bulge (as shared with Rolling Stones). Continue more easily directly to belay on easier ground.

The next route lies on the next buttress to the west, high up, and can be best reached by traversing above the finish of Sundance across a gully.

Shipshape 41m D
D. Short, J. Lynam, (shared leads) 2nd June 1985.
Start at the centre of the base of the trapeze-shaped face which lies below the final wall of the buttress.
1. 21m Climb up into the recess below the overhang (beware of loose rock). Climb the overhang, which has excellent holds and good protection, and continue up to a broad ledge.
2. 20m Climb the wall above the ledge just left of a scoop. After about 12m the angle eases and moderate climbing leads to easy ground.From here a short scramble leads to the ridge of Binn Braoin about 100m east of the north summit.

On the north-west face are a long line of broken cliffs, little explored, which look well from Meacanacht. One route is recorded -

Cloudy Rib 250m M
Start about halfway along the cliff, immediately below a large nose. Climb the nose which is surprisingly easy and continue in as direct a line as possible up a succession of slabs, corners and walls to the summit ridge.