Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil
We are indebted to Con Moriarty (Spórt Corrán Tuathail) for the following topos of winter climbing around Carrauntoohil in Co. Kerry.
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Gall Stones Grade III. 150M
John Hussey, Con Moriarty, Cathal Cudden, 05/01/2010
Location Coimín Grin (north of The Bone).
Climbs the obvious gully on north face of Cnoc na Péiste. Approach as for Cruach Mhór. Walk to Loch Coimín na Péiste trending right into Coimín Grin. Route starts on a slab of ice which leads into snowy gully. Climb this up into cave. From here move out left and up and belay on top of cave. Descend by traversing left and dropping down to Loch Coimín na Péiste.
An Titim Amach Grade IV 250m
John Hussey, Con Moriarty, Gene Tangney, 07/01/2010
Approach from Ard Na Locha Climbs the central of three gullies directly below Luigi's. Crux is on second pitch is a solid Grade IV icefall (see pic) Descend heavenly gates or continue up Luigi's to summit.
Buachaillí Caillte Grade IV 120m + 25m easy ground to the top
05/03/2016 Jakub Dominiczak, Sebastian Krzemien, Pawel Przybylo
This route starts at the left side of Central Buttress between Central Gully and O'Sheas Gully above Coimín Uachtarach.
- 40m III Climb the step rocks to get to the snowy field, follow it up till big broken block on your right, travers under it and belay off the block.
- 45m II From the belay climb up for about 25m till step rock barrier, from there trend leftwards for another 20m to the end of snowy field. Belay under the step rock. (in the middle of this pitch is easy escape from the route by travers to the right over the ridge and easy climb up to the top)
- 30m IV Climb up through the step rock to get to the ridge, follow the ridge for 20m, belay under wall of 2m height.
- 25m From belay easy ground to the top.
2b An Streapa - Left fork As the confines of the gully opens, climb left keeping the steep rock on your left hand side instead of taking the obvious right trending ramp and climb this wide snow slope for approx. 80mtrs as it narrows and leads to an obvious exit notch on the summit ridge at GR7945 8390
Piaras Kelly, Nigel Dixon, Jan Blaszczyk – March ‘14