Ballynahown
Ballynahown
A high clean limestone cliff 300m ESE of Leaba na hAon Bhó Crag of Oughtdarra. Located on commonage. You can approach it from the road/Burren Way to the East, there are a number of private houses and working farms along this road so careful and responsible parking and approach is required through the fields. It is also possible to approach from the West and North using approaches for Leaba na hAon Bho and Leacht na hAm
adan. Each approach takes about 20-30 mins. The ground around the crag is uneven, pitted with holes and wild to say the least so wear boots and trousers. There are a number of caves in the cliffs 100m North of the crag, an internet search of "Caves of Oughtdarra" should throw up the latest and most accurate cave surveys.
Peregrines are known to have nested here in the past, best to avoid it from March to August.
CLUB MED VD
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 11th August 2022.
Start 4m left of AN CATHACH on a ledge, climb the fist crack to a higher ledge, traverse left across broken ground to the pinnacle, climb the cracked wall at the back of the pinnacle to the top.
AN CATHACH 15m HVS 5b **
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011.
This route takes the prominent corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the corner crack and small holds on the left wall to get established. Follow the corner and horizontal breaks on the left wall. A series of bridging moves up the steep corner and a difficult move near the top get you to the top. Excellent belay seat 1m from the top. (An Cathach was a legendary monster who inhabited Scattery island and terrorised people!!!!!!!)
AN TEACH SOLAS 14m HVS 5a
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011.
This route starts at a steep wide crack in the middle of the crag.
Bridge up the corner, using hand jams in the crack, to a ledge above the wide crack. Continue through easier horizontal breaks above.
CRANNOG HS 4b
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011.
This great little route starts under the large overhang at the right hand end of the crag. Layback left up the ramp. Then climb up to the right hand side of the big roof. Using holds on the right of the roof pull through to gain the top.
CLARE ROCKET VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 11th August 2022.
This climb takes the blunt arete 3m right of CRANNOG. Climb the left hand side (steeply at first) and traverse right at the bulge to finish up the cracked wall above.
DOWN IN THE BOOM DOCKS S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 11th August 2022.
Start at the left facing corner in the right hand side of the recess right of CLARE ROCKET. Climb to the overhang, traverse left on the ledge below the overhang (awkward), move up right to climb the wide crack above the overhang.
