Lamb's Head
To reach Lamb's Head you should take the Ring of Kerry road from either Sneem or Waterville to Caherdaniel. About 1km south of Caherdaniel turn west onto L7542 (which is signposted "Lamb Head) at the bottlebank. At the end of the road after 5km strike across the peninsula towards the lookout post, at 105m, map reference 526563. If you want to camp ask for permission at one of the houses near the end of the road. Park considerately. Climbs are found north west of the Head.
The rock is part of the Valentia slate formation
"Cuas" is the Irish for Zawn. The climbs in general are in the succession of ‘‘zawns” around the Head. Going from S.E. to N.W., the first zawn is N.W. of the island.The climbs in general are in the succession of ‘‘zawns” around the head. Going from S.E. to N.W., the first zawn is N.W. of the island
Cuas Teampal
Pippin 27m V.Diff
S. & M. Harris, June 1971
10m right of the Boundary Wall of the roof over the face opposite the black volcanic cracks. Follow the left hand cracks up three tiers of wall
Merry 30m Diff
G. Moyces, S. Harris, June 1972
2m left of Pippin. A short semicircular crack is climbed, then scramble until an easy traverse is reached on left and then finish up the centre of the slab
Tim's refusal 45m S
S. & M. Harris, June 1971
From the bottom of the black volcanic slabs at the first point it is possible to cross without wet feet follow a prominent crack leftwards to a ledge (stance in the triangle). Traverse right 3m and ascend the slab split by small horizontal crack (delicate). From the small ledge at the corner escape around the overhangs to the top.
Innominate 45m V.S.
C.Rice, M. Harris. June 1972
Follow "Tim's Refusal" to stance. Surmount the vertical rib on the left of the stance, Traverse left until crack is gained and climb the crack to the top.
Cuas Sraib an Capall
This is the next zawn. No Climbs
Cuas an Tabac
On the Kenmare side of the zawn is a steep cliff Just above water level. Here is
Weetabix 21m V.Diff
J Lynam, D. Mitchell, B. Kinsella. June 1972
Climb down an easy slab at the south end of the cliff and walk north beneath a steep wall. Just beyond the wall is a steep narrow slab. Start at its foot and climb the slab for about 5m and then move left onto a parallel narrow slab. Continue up using holds on the left edge to reach easier ground.
Cuas Aill Bán
This is the major climbing area offering some steep and serious routes. The zawn can be entered from both sides. On the Kenmare side by reversing stretches up to Diff standard. On the other try hard scrambling or reversing at "Peg Diversion" which is hard to find from the top.
All the routes so far are on the left-hand wall in the area of the white slab.
Free the people 30m V.S.
C Rice, M.Harris. June 1972
Just by the crack which gives access to the Cuas there is a break in the cliff which gives a narrow way to the top. This weakness can be clearly seen from the base of the white slab.
- Traverse from the white slab until 20 short of the access crack to the back of the zawn where a small slab split by a crack can be seen. about 6m above sea level in line with the weakness.
- Ascend to slab and up crack until top of rib is reached. Descend and belay in gully which steepens below to the sea.
- Climb out of gully to platform climb the crack at the back until forced out opposite overhanging wall. Reach for small shelf and heave. Gain further platform and go up horizontally bedded rock until easy ground is reached
Sloth 20m HS
S.Harris, G. Moyces, June 1972
On the white slab, traverse out and round the ear to a ledge. Back right and into a corner which is climbed to the top.
Sloth Arete 20m Severe
M. & S. Harris, June 1971
Climb the arete to the left of "Sloth".
Peg Diversion 20m Mod
M.Harris, June 1971
Follow the obvious crack to the left of the white slab. This route makes a quick entrance to or exit from the slab.
