Access restricted: During the bird nesting season, beginning of March until the end of July, climbers are kindly asked not to enter the quarry. Mountaineering Ireland is currently engaging with Kilkenny County Council to agree on access to the quarry going forward. Mountaineering Ireland thanks all climbers for their cooperation and further information will be provided in due course.
Location 515 392 Discovery Series no. 67
The easiest way to find this is to drive from Knocktopher towards Kilkenny along the main road. Take the first left turn into L8247 and continue for 1.94km until the quarry appears beside the road on your right. The quarry faces west and catches the evening sun but takes some time to dry out following wet weather.
The M9 now passes very close to the quarry, perhaps startling surprised climbers with thoughts of unclimbed rock. Approaching along this, exit at Knocktopher and proceed as above.
The rock is a crinoidal limestone of the Ballysteen formation with some clay content. Long-exposed surfaces tend to exfoliate in a character-building way.
1. Salt Peanuts F7a+ 7m
Follow crack to lower off. 4 bolts.
It looks easy but it's not.
H.Fogg, G.Fogg 8/6/2004
2. Seek and Destroy F6a 6m
H. Hennessy 21/2/2010
3. Tide's Out 4c/5a 6m
From the arete, move left and up. Seriousness depends on the `state of the tide' of gravel underneath.
N. Eager solo 2003
4. West Fork F6a+ 6m
Right fork of crack. 2 bolts
G. Fogg, H. Fogg 26.6.2004
5. Boppit Extreme F6b+ 6m
Left fork of Y-crack 2 bolts
(Cheat-blocks might be needed to reach the starting holds - crimp left and sidepull right)
H.Fogg, G . Fogg 26.6.2004
5(a). breakeven F6b+ 6m
a bouldery route just right of twayblade. 2 bolts.
H. Hennessy 25/2/2012
6. Twayblade F6a 6m
Flake crack to lower off. 2 bolts.
G.Fogg onsight on trad gear. 2003
unknown F6a 12m
The crack left of the roof on the right of the main face.
stretch armstrong 7b 14m
Start four meters right of bolt bandits, follow ledges up to an undercut, a big move leads into sustained climbing to the lower off.
H. Hennessy 3/10/2021￼
rising tide 7b+
The line between bolt bandits and stretch armstrong. Shared lower off with bolt bandits.
H. Hennessy 21/5/2022
. Bolt bandits F7b 14m
The line right of "Hugh's route" Climbs the seam that starts at half height. Flakey first half excellent second half.
H Hennessy 26/7/2020
7. Hugh's Route F7b+ 15m
Crimpy technical climbing up the main blank face. It's much harder in the sun. Very good.
H Fogg [onsight] 2/7/2010
the line right of omaha beach. Not fully bolted
8. Omaha Beach F6c+ 15m
Bridge up the striking corner. A hard struggle all the way. 7 bolts [you'll be glad of them all].
G.Fogg, H.Fogg 12/6/2004
9. Draighean Dubh F7c 12m (route no longer there)
The right hand crack on the very slightly overhanging wall.
10. Fist Full of Steel F7a 8m (route no longer there)
The left hand crack.
Three bolts H.Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 20/12/2008
11. La Mussara beg F6a+ 15m
12. Slimline F5+ 15m
A bit chossy. Four bolts.
H. Hennessy 2/2009
13. Otherside F6c 15m
H.Hennessy (toproped proir to ascent) 2/2009 Three bolts
14. Gates of Eden F6b 15m
Nice climbing up the arete. Crux at top.
four bolts H.Hennessy 24/12/2008
Wasteland F6a+ 12m
climb the arete on its left hand side.
H. Hennessy 22/1/2011 Three bolts
15. Intoxicated F6a 12m
a bit loose near the top.
H. Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 27/3/2010 Four bolts
The optimist's door 6c 12m
Left of "Intoxicated" the first line of glue in bolts.
D. Dillon 6/2020￼
forgotten flake 6b+ 12m
The line of glue in bolts left of "the optimist's door". Shared lower off.
H. Hennessy 6/2020￼