Union Woods

From Irish Climbing Wiki

Union Woods

Union Wall

Access: Can be accessed from Ballisodare and Collooney via forest tracks in Union Woods. Least complicated route is from the White Gates, near Union Foods (G692294). Follow track to "Crows Foot", a three way junction, and then take middle track. At the next junction take a right and head up hill on the track for about 900m. "Crag of Dan" appears first on left, which is now very overgrown. Union Wall is then 100m beyond this, also on the left.
OS Grid Reference: G682286

1 Awkward Friend 12m HVS
Jonathan Gilmore, Daniel O Brien, Conal Sexton 24 May 2016
Start 1m right of the bottom left of the crag and climb past the bulging eye-like feature diagonally towards the next bulging eye-like feature at two thirds height. Clamber over onto a shelf at 2m below the top and followed by an awkward unprotected move to the top  

2 Crack, Crack and a Prayer 12m HVS
Jonathan Gilmore, Conal Sexton, Daniel O Brien 24 May 2016
2m right of Awkward Friend, climb just to the right of the obvious rightward trending crack. Continue to the next crack, which is about 1 foot right of the first crack. Continue up to the shelf 2m below the top

A shorter crag to the left of the main crag has a number of routes on it. The top of this crag and also the main crag, can be accessed by a track to the right of the main face. The top of this crag has been cleaned since the topo photo was taken

3 Welcome to the Jungle 7m S
Daniel O’Brien, Jonathan Gilmore 17 May 2019
Follow the obvious crack in the middle of the crag, with the large eye like hollow. Juggy, with good protection

4 Tomtrooper 8m HS
Conal Sexton, Daniel O’Brien 28 May 2019
Climb the faint crack between “Welcome to the jungle” and “The walls have eyes”. Crux is at the top out.

5 The Walls have Eyes 9m HS
Daniel O’Brien, Conal Sexton 21 May 2019
Follow the obvious crack on the right edge of the crag. Juggy, with good protection all the way. Excellent wire placement just before top out