Mass Rock

From Irish Climbing Wiki

This is a small crag located on the south east side of Slieve Anierin just south of lough Nabellbeg. The crag ranges from six to eighteen meters and is about five hundred meters long. Stakes have been placed above the main crag and the righthand wall for belaying these are located behind a sheep track twenty meters behind the cliff.

Approach; From Drumshanbo take the Aghacashel road for 14km untill a left turn just before the village of Aghacashel is reached (first turn on the right when leaving Aghacashel). Follow this road for a further 3km untill a lefthand bend with a lane of to its right is reached. Follow the lane for 50m there is parking for two cars on the left. Walk through the gate and follow the waymarker posts right to the crag!

The routes are descibed from left to right.

1. Drumshambo Breakfast Roll E1 5b 15m
B.Seery, H.Hennessy (Ground up) 24/4/2011
Start just right of a right facing corner under a finger crack that starts at half height. Climb up to crack and make some excellant jamming moves to the top.

2. The Great Hunger E2 5b 15m
H.Hennessy, B.Seery (Cleaned prior to ascent) 24/4/2011
Start at the arete two meters right of Drumshambo Breakfast Roll. Climb steeply up to a ledge, place your gear and launch up the arete.

3. Feed Me D 12m
B.Seery (Solo) 24/4/2011
Essentially pointless. Climbs the chimney ten meters right of the Great Hunger, take care at the top.

The next routes start twenty meters right of the chimney behind a large detached block at the bottom of the steps up to the alter.


6. The Offering E4 6a 18m
M.Walsh, H.Hennessy (Cleaned prior to ascent) 24/4/2011
Start at a thin crack below and left of a roof at three quaters height. Hard bouldery moves lead up to a horizontal break, from here move right to good holds. Finish up the left side of the roof.

7. Dont Pull Mary E2 5c 18m
M.Walsh, B.Seery (Cleaned prior to ascent) 24/4/2011
Start two meters right of The Offering below a small right facing corner. Climb up to the roof and traverse right make a hard move out through the roof to a large ledge.

The next routes are on the detached block.

8. Jigsaw HS 4b 15m
H.Hennessy, C.Seery 24/4/2011
On the side facing the main cliff six meters left of the alter climb the thin crack past some loose blocks. simul abseil.

9. The 5th Ape VS 4c 15m
H.Hennessy, M.Walsh (Cleaned prior to ascent) 4/6/2011
Climbs the wide crack that runs through roof on the opposite side of the block. start at a left facing corner follow this to a large ledge below the roof, climb through this on huge holds.

The next routes start eight meters right of the large detached block.


10. Im in Heaven HVS 5a 15m
M.Walsh,H.Hennessy (Cleaned prior to ascent)4/6/2011
Start below a cleaned crack three meters left of the arete. Follow the crack to top.

11. Reaper E3 5c 15m
H.Hennessy, M.Walsh (Cleaned prior to ascent) 4/6/2011
Bold climbing up the arete. Start on the left side on loose blocks, climb up to a large horizontal at half height, make a short traverse right climb the face for three meters step back and finish up the arete.

12. Forbidden Fruit HVS 5a 15m
H.Hennessy (Cleaned prior to ascent) 2/5/2011
Climbs the splitter crack two meters right of Reaper. Pull through the roof to a good stance, follow the crack to top.

The next routes are on a small face to the right of a steep gully 15m right of Forbidden Fruit. Stake in place a few meters back behind a sheep track.

14. Mmm Boxty HVS 5a 14m
H.Hennessy, C.Seery (Cleaned prior to ascent) 2/5/2011
Start just right of the arete at the base of a crack, climb this to top.

15. How Much is Enough E1 5b 14m
B.Seery, H.Hennessy 03/07/11
Start 2m right of Mmm Boxty. Take a line straight to the top with thin moves between the horizontal breaks and moving through the bucket holds up higher.

16. OMG E1 5b 14m
H.Hennessy, B.Seery 23/4/2011
Start five meters right of Boxty below a crack that starts at three quaters height. climb up to base of crack and follow good crimps leftwards to a grassy ledge.

17. lord of the sheep HVS 5a 14m
H.Hennessy, M.Keogh 23/2/2013
Start just right of "omg" below a flake at five meteres, a hard move leads up to the horizontal break, from here continue straight up past the flake to a grassy ledge.