Derreennawinshin
Derreennawinshin
Location: These crag's are situated at the old villages, along Killary Harbours Northern shore, on the south west slope of Mweelrea. As the crags are several km beyond the 'Killary Crags' I've added as seperate area. Access to this stunning and remote area is by long walk from Delphi Adventure centre or by boat access. The crags have a wild and atmospheric feel, and the old village adds a strong sense of history to the area. The lines here so far have been strong, solid traditional lines, with some additional harder lines climbed on top rope only.
Grid Ref: 793 648 Walk In 1 hour 30mins
Character: A fairly extensive range of mid-sized crags, with plenty of new route potential. Being south facing the crags dry quickly, and seem to have minimal seepage. The climbing is mostly on good, clean sandstone, with some less stable sections of shale and some volcanic intrusions. As fairly large and unexplored crags, sections of loose rock can be expected. Generally a quick abseil and clean will have most routes ready to climb. Protection on the lines so far has been from just adequate to excellent.
Climbs described left to right
1. Dive Bomber 38m HVS 4b, 5a *
Carl Maddox, Clem Quinn, June 2014
A wandering start is Redeemed, by the steep and excellent finishing crack.
1. 25m 4b. Start as for 'Bugs Life' 20 meters to the left of the main wall, at a short black, jagged arete and corner. Bridge the arete / corner to a tricky / bold move to gain grass ledge. Follow grass to second step. Move left to right across the middle wall, to rock over onto right slab. Follow crack in slab to step around high arete to 'Bugs Life' belay.
2. 13m 5a. Move left of belay to steep left crack. Climb steep, challenging and well protected crack directly.
2. Bugs Life 35m VS 4b, 4b *
Robbie Redmond , Carl Maddox - August 2013 (Climbed on-sight).
A good little adventure.
1. 25m 4b. Start 20 meters to the left of the main wall, at a short black, jagged arete and corner. Bridge the arete / corner to a tricky / bold move to gain grass ledge. Follow grass to second step. Move into central crack from the right with some tenuous moves, to make another bold finish onto second grass ledge and belay.
2. 10m 4b. Move up and slightly right to the superb corner crack. Follow this throughout, using a surprising variety of moves. Well protected, with large gear - An excellent pitch.
3. Angry Birds 34m HVS 5a, 5a **
Carl Maddox, Clem Quinn, June 2014
This route shares P1 of Jessica, then climbs a direct line up the exposed and bold left arete.
Start at the base of the main wall, at the obvious steep corner
1. 20m 5a. Move up shale rock, directly below the steep corner. Make a hard, high step and layback to gain the corner, steep sustained climbing follows the hanging corner, to belay at rock step, good protection .
2. 14m 5a. Straight up to steep, curving corner, (small gear), make an exposed traverse to left arete, then boldly follow the arete on small holds and limited protection to finish.
A great line, but with a committing and bold 2nd pitch.
4. Jessica 45m HVS 5a, 4b **
Robbie Redmond , Carl Maddox - August 2013 (Climbed after quick abseil clean).
A solid, traditional line, steep and exposed in places.
Start at the base of the main wall, at the obvious steep corner
1. 20m 5a. Move up shale rock, directly below the steep corner. Make a hard, high step and layback to gain the corner, steep sustained climbing follows the hanging corner, to belay at rock step, good protection .
2. 25m 4b. Make an ascending right traverse up and along wide crack to centre of wall. Traverse right again to far right of crag and base of groove and crack. Ascend groove in a fairly exposed position to finish.
