Swiss Valley
Swiss Valley
This huge crag is located just on the Leitrim side of the Glencar Valley. It is a truly magnificent crag with stunning views and a real "big-wall" feel to it. It would be very hard to find anything like it in terms of exposure and steepness for the grades. The main wall is covered in jugs, albeit a bit dusty prior to cleaning. The rock itself is likely the reason the awe-inspiring crag hasn't been climbed before because it doesn't lend itself well to the "ground up" approach due to very poor bands of rock. All routes done so far begin above the very loose rocks, hence the absail approach. All routes have been cleaned and top-roped prior to first ascent (apart from Yosef's route which was cleaned by Yosef and onsighted by Jon... and no, Yosef didn't name it). It is suggested others also clean and top rope new routes first given friability of the rock. The crag should be treated similarly to a sea cliff with all access from the top. There are access issues with the bottom and, as mentioned, the rock is quite bad in the bottom section.
It is very important when climbing any route on Swiss Valley to be careful not to dislodge or throw rocks down into the valley where they may kill or injure the grazing sheep or occasional hillwalkers. The steep grassy slopes mean that any rock fall will bounce all the way to the other side of the valley floor. This also means that if you drop your phone while taking a selfie you can forget about retrieving it from the bottom because it could have ended up anywhere.
A 50m absail will get you to the belay spots. Bringing an extra bit of rope to make an anchor makes things smoother but not essential. The last couple meters of routes (apart from Enigma and Prime Lime which as clean to the top) can be a bit grassy but not too bad as far as Irish standard go. Easily avoidable by pulling on the ab rope once grass starts but there is enough solid rock in the grassy part to climb as well.
The access from the top couldn't be easier. You can drive up a forestry road to the top of the mountain and walk 15min to the first route. There are laybys all along the road up that you can use. Be mindful of farmers that use the top as it is all commonage up there.
Here is a pin to the top parking:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/fjZgMUp9rb198oo47
Pin to the crag:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/4wB2qVF7nig7iNay5
Link to Topos and Pics
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1E7yuP1tr5u4W1AAGoARRPaH1gm6Y6vWS
1. Enigma** VS 30m
A beautiful corner climb and a great intro to the crag and perfect for those that don't want the exposure of the main wall right away. Belay at the bottom of the crack that runs the entire length of the corner. Overcome the block that sticks out 1/3 height. Finish on hidden jug pockets in a small overhang on the right hand wall. Lots of medium cams for the crack makes the climb more relaxed. Don't stray from the corner as it hasn't been cleaned elsewhere.
Yosef Dvores, Laura McMorrow, 2022
2. Prime Lime Climb E4/5 40m
An interesting climb on thin ledges that you crimp up the entire way with no real rests. Belay in the corner underneath the roof on the right. Traverse right under the roof and climb up on loose but unbudging blocks. Keep heading right until near the arete and able to head up until you can traverse back left on decent holds to a crack. Follow the crack up past a difficult section. At the top head leftwards by surmounting the roof to a clean finish to avoid loose rock
Yosef Dvores, Jon Gilmour, 7th May 2024
3. Fossil Features HS 25m
Belay in a small sentry box with a crack above it 1.5m left of the corner and above an overhang. Climb upwards and slightly leftwards at the top. The whole wall is covered with jugs so climb as you please. The rock is quite solid here with even the thinnest fossils holding strong. The top can be a bit loose.
Yosef Dvores, Jon Gilmour, 7th May 2024
4. Lime Light VS 50m
Possibly slighty harder than Enigma but much longer and rock quality a bit worse. Start at the large ledge 50m down. Offset nut up high on the right wall to belay from can be placed while absailing. Also use your ab rope for the belay! Climb the corner to near the top where you should traverse onto the overhanging wall on the right to finish and avoid the loose corner finish.
Yosef Dvores, Laura McMorrow, 2022
8. Lime in the ballnut E1 50m
The first and probably scariest route done at the crag. Start at a hanging belay just above a big overhang. Climb up and then around the arete to enigma. Done in a single pitch but can be split in two.
Yosef Dvores, Jon Gilmour, 17th May 2022
5. Yosef's route HVS 50m
Start on large ledge 50m down below obvious crack. Surmount the overhang on the left of crack and climb the left side of the crack (right side of crack very dusty) until jugs lead you slight leftward up to the top. The entire wall is just jugs so just head up and slightly left to reach the top and avoiding white dusty part on the right hand side of the crack.
Jon Gilmour, Yosef Dvores, 12th May 2023
6. Optimus Lime VS 35m
Abseil from the three solid round older stakes to a 0.5m rectangular grass platform at the bottom of shallow corner. Climb the corner to a sloping ledge of another corner. The start of this corner just above the sloping ledge is probably the crux. Continue up this corner to near the top where it is likely easier to move onto the face to finish. Again it's all jugs so you can move onto the face out of corner if desired.
Yosef Dvores, Gavin Conlon, 10th August, 2024
7. Little drops of coolness E1 45m
Start on a narrow ledge below a thin crack and a few meters above a bigger ledge underneath. Climb straight up, weaving whichever way tickles your fancy.
PROJECT
