Main Face

From Irish Climbing Wiki

Crotty’s Rock – Main Face

A number of ways have been forged up the arête on the main face of Crotty’s Rock. Maha Mind provides the most direct option and is recommended. However, all options recorded here are enjoyable. Ong Gong Arête, and its direct finish, were ground up ascent and thus follow natuarlly clean lines. The keen will start from the lowest point, but it is possible to skip the first step of rock on the first pitch, but the leader and belayer must first both get established directly under the square cut overhang above.

Main Face

[Not] Up For The Match 85m E1 4c 5a 5b
At the top left [eastern] side of the crag is a flat face and at its right-hand edge, a clean corner curving up and overhanging very slightly at the top.
Start at the gully below, to the left of the start of Maha Mind/Ong Gong Arete, which is bridged by a large block.

1. 30m 4c. Climb up below the block and chimney in behind it to emerge on a woodrush slope. Continue up this and onto the green ledge on right.

2. 30m 5a. Climb up deceptively easy-looking vegetated rock to base of top corner.

3. 25m 5b. Up the corner. A clean honest pitch in a spectacular situation.

G. Fogg [1 & 3] H. Fogg [2] 7/9/2014. Onsight.

Maha Mind
118m HVS 5b, P. Britton, S. Galwey, C Ennis (shared leads), August 2003
A line straighter than, and in part common with, O.G.A.

1. 5a 38m Same as pitch 1 of O.G.A.

2. 5a 32m A 2m layback move just above the belay concludes with a balance move into a shallow groove. Climb to the right of the rib above and then enter the large V groove beyond. Above the groove, climb the 3m right facing corner using a finger crack then move up and left into an enclosed belay.

3. 5b 50m Climb the left trending crack above, the last 3m is overhanging and off-width. From the good stance above, climb the right facing crack to its conclusion at 3m. Take a step up and right on the wall and climb delicately to the top, exit off the wall leftwards. Traverse some 8m over the broken blocks then climb to the final pinnacle.

Oh Gee finish to Maha Mind: P. Britton, C. Ennis (shared leads), 23 August 2003
Pitchs 1 & 2 as per Maha Mind.

3. 5a 20m Avoid the last overhanging 3m of the off-width crack by stepping left and then traversing back onto the top of the crack. Belay just beyond the crack.

4. 4b 30m Move a few metres rightwards onto the sharp arête and climb onto the top of a 3m block. Now step directly back left onto the exposed wall above the crack of the last pitch. Move delicately to the top of this; protection is limited but footholds are good. Traverse some 8m then climb up to the final pinnacle.

Main Face

Ong Gong Arête 124m HVS 5a, P. Britton, J.Morrissey, ( 25th July 1999)
This climb takes the longest possible line up the main face of Crotty’s Rock. The first pitch has some heather near the start and appears easy, however it proves otherwise and introduces the first of many enjoyable airy rightward steps. Start at 530m height about 10 m left of the remains of an old fence line.

1. 5a 38m - From the lowest point of the crag, climb the short slab to the heather terrace. Some 20m up the wall above a 2m square cut overhang is clearly visible; rejoin rock at a point directly below this*. Climb to a stance just under the square cut overhang (1½ tri-cam and size 1 cam recommended, no protection after this). Step boldly out to the right, initially using pocket holds. Continue delicately to the top of the steep slab. Move right 3m and up to a belay ledge.

Note:* (Alternatively, access from the left and setup belay for first pitch at this point on the sloping terrace.)

2. 4a 22m - Climb the right facing corner on the left of belay. Move up then traverse rightwards. Pass by the entrance to the large V groove; instead use the green tinged ramp to the right, which is gained by and an airy step. Climb the ramp with improving holds then move left to a belay ledge with a knee height cave.

3. 4a 15m - Climb another steep right facing corner using a finger crack then move up and left to where a short crack leads into an enclosed belay. Find protection at rear of this.

4. 4b 22m - Ascend from the belay near its outside edge, then move right to the main arête. Another airy step to the right followed by some awkward moves up a crack leads to the right hand side of the arête. Climb the wall above near it's outside edge. Belay at a spike on the now exposed arête.

5. - Direct Finish - P. Britton, G. Moss, T. O'Neill (6th May 2000)
5a/b 12m - Beyond the arête a large block rests against the final wall. Climb the block to a comfortable stance. From here traverse committingly rightwards into the base of twin cracks on the steep exposed face. Climb these to gain the top.

6. - Diff 15m Exit by a traverse and short climb to the upper pinnacle.

Original pitch 5. “Long John Finish” With enjoyable bridging and chimney moves.
Abseil down 15m from the belay spike (bring tat) onto the RHS of the arête. Move 12m to the right to below an obvious wide crack system.
(5) 4a 40m - Climb the large cracks and flakes with bridging moves to gain the chimney above. Then move past a block from where more pleasant chunky and/or chimney moves lead to the top.