Luggala Woody Wall & Conifer Buttress (Creag Conaisreach)
Printed guidebook available here
WOODY WALL
The steep imposing cliffs of Woody Wall are directly downslope from H Buttress. They face west and overlook the broad boulder field of South Gully. Aptly referred to as Flora Wall in the 1967 guide, the Face is heavily vegetated with everything from lichens to trees.
There have been few, if any, repeats of most of the Extreme climbs on this cliff and attempts on these routes might wisely require prior inspection especially in terms of any necessary cleaning. Until this happens the state and quality of some of the routes will remain in question. The main exception to this note of caution is the classic VS All Along the Watchtower.
The routes on Woody Wall are often steep and strenuous. The exposure and possible difficulties with protection give the climbing a certain air of seriousness.
DOWN AND OUT 65m VS (4c,4b,4a)
This route takes the left flank of Woody Wall. It starts high up on South Gully at a vegetated groove below an oak tree about 15m below where the gully forks right between H Buttress and Woody Wall.
1. 25m Scramble up the groove to the tree. Move right up a corner (crux) and exit left onto a good ledge. Climb the cracked overlap and continue up a wall to a heather terrace (possible escape left to the gully)
2. 25m Pull up into a niche below an overhang and climb this on the right (delicate). Trend right and then back diagonally left and continue up clean bulging rock to the right of the arête. Belay on a broad ledge just left of and below a rock tower.
3. 15m Follow the left inside edge of the tower until it is possible to swing out onto the face. Easy ground to the top.
S. Windrim, A. Latham (one aid point), 25/9/1975 Higgs, D. Ryan (first free ascent), May 1976
HYRAX * 52m HVS (4b,4c,4b)
A good route offering steep exposed climbing but marred by vegetation on the first pitch. Pitches 2 and 3 may be combined in a single pitch. Start at a block recess to the left of a large horizontal ledge partly obscured by trees. The recess is to the left of a large, partly sunken, grass-covered block and leading up left from the recess is a ramp with a clump of small holly trees.
1. 25m Gain the ramp a few metres left of the recess but the recess may be climbed directly (5a). Move up past the holly trees and surmount a short steep corner to a blocky ledge before continuing up the left-trending slab to an overlap and a jammed spike. Step around left below the overlap and up a ramp to a ledge and a tree belay.
2. 17m Move up diagonally rightwards from the tree to a narrow sloping ledge below a green wall. Pull up steeply to a horizontal flake (runner); the crux moves follow - a rightwards traverse across the wall and a difficult step up. Continue up steep rock on good holds to a ledge.
3. 10m Climb the short slab above to a large ledge and belay. Escape off leftwards to the gully or continue up easy vegetated grooves to the top.
K. Higgs, S.R. Young, 20/9/1975
NO. 1 THE LARCH 45m E1 (5b,5a)
This strenuous route starts 3m right of Hyrax.
1. 25m Climb the wall to an overlap at 4m and, using a small undercut, move up diagonally left to a blocky hold. Continue up to a small spike on the right and then up slightly left using flake cracks to gain a ledge at 13m. Climb the wall directly and more easily to the recessed ledge. Pegs (blades) may be needed for the belay.
2. 20m Gain the obvious overhanging groove above the belay which is strenuous but can be climbed on large holds to a ledge on the right; the groove is scruffy and sports a loose block! Step back left and then climb to a heather ledge. Move across left to a belay. Escape off left.
K. Higgs, S. Windrim, E. Goulding, 14/8/1977
WOODSTOCK * 55m E1 (5a,5b,4b)
A potentially fine route marred by vegetation above the demanding crux. Start a few metres right of a large slumped block on a sloping ledge. The route follows a green groove more or less up the centre of the wall.
1. 25m Climb a short wall to gain the base of the green groove. Follow the groove to a blocky overlap and surmount this awkward obstacle before moving left along a ledge to a large spike. Climb the wall above to a recessed ledge. Belay on the right side of the ledge.
2. 18m Boldly climb the left-trending overhanging crack (crux) until small ledges lead out left. Move along these and up to a grassy ledge. Belay at the base of a slab.
3. 12m Move up and across the slab on the left to a possible old peg runner. Climb the slab above to a belay. Escape off left.
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 28/8/1977; first pitch climbed in 1975/1976
DEFINITELY NOT THE BEACH * 50m E2 (5b,5b)
A bold and fairly direct line, the hard sections of which are difficult to protect. Start about halfway along a large horizontal ledge at the base of a shallow groove midway between the starts of Woodstock and Caravan.
1. 25m Climb the groove and gain the ledge on the left; up diagonally left for a few moves (as for Caravan) before swinging out right onto a steep rib just right of the overhang. Move up the rib to a small nose over which a sling can be placed for protection. Gain a shallow groove to the left of the nose (crux); climb this to better holds and continue steeply to a tree belay.
2. 25m Climb the wall behind the tree to a stance (possible belay). Step right and descend a short slab to a square-cut block (as for All Along the Watchtower) before stepping up right to gain a higher traverse line which leads with difficulty to a block recess below an overhang. Break through the overhang at the obvious point of weakness and follow the left-trending fault with an awkward exit below the top.
S. Windrim, D. Windrim, K. Higgs, 5/9/1976
CARAVAN ** 50m E2 (5b,5b/c)
An impressive line through overhangs in the centre of the wall. Though the route starts to the right of Definitely Not the Beach it takes a line mainly to the left of it. Start near the right-hand end of a large horizontal ledge, below a recessed crack.
1. 25m Climb the crack for 5m, pull out left at an overlap and move leftwards to a ledge. Climb up diagonally left below an overhang to a small overhang in the centre of the wall (old protection peg). From the left end of the ledge make hard moves upwards through the obvious gap in the overhang. Move up and delicately right to a shallow groove; follow this to a long ledge and a tree belay on the right.
2. 25m Move back left along the ledge to a groove which is climbed until it is possible to traverse diagonally right to a good stance (possible belay) below an overhung corner where the crux sequence begins. Move up the corner to reach a good hold just below the lip of the overhang; using layaway holds on the left edge gain the V-groove above quickly. Move right onto a ramp and up easily to the top.
K. Higgs, D. Windrim, S. Windrim, 28/8/1976
ALL ALONG THE WATCHTOWER *** 62m VS (4b,4a,4b)
An unlikely line at such a reasonable grade on Woody Wall, offering exposure and spectacular situations on good rock. Start at the right-hand end of the horizontal ledge, directly above large trees. Belay a few metres to the left in a cracked recess as for Caravan.
1. 32m Climb the short corner to the right of the belay, with some awkward moves to gain the large white platform. Move off the platform by way of a narrow ramp on the left and up this until it becomes possible to climb up onto a small ledge. Make a delicate move left to a wide crack; up this and continue to a tree (possible belay). Making use of the tree, climb the steep wall above to a good belay ledge.
2. 15m Make a descending traverse rightwards down a slab and across to a square-cut block. Continue traversing on better holds to a stance on the lake side of the arête. This exposed pitch is more committing for the second.
3. 15m From the belay climb the clean groove above, moving left to the arête at a bulge. Continue up to a ledge and the final belay.
K. Higgs, S. Windrim, 19/4/1976
MAN Diesel ** E5 6a 18m
A super steep endurance test, above the large white platform on All Along the Watchtower.
Start at a short corner on the right hand end of the platform. Bridge the corner and jug the rising traverse leftward, passing a PR just before a resting ledge at half height and onward to join All Along the Watchtower again at the descending traverse ledge.
R Browner, H Hebblethwaite 9.9.2013
DECREPITATION 40m VS (4b,4b,4b)
The thoroughly overgrown first pitch is not recommended in its present state. The second pitch is worthwhile and can be reached by traversing rightwards from the start of All Along the Watchtower along a grassy terrace; this pitch also joins up with All Along the Watchtower. Start about 15m up from Terrace Corner just below the largest of the holly trees.
1. 30m Climb up to the holly tree and continue up left to a wide crack. Up this to a dirty corner and climb the slabby corner to a large ledge below a bulging wall.
2. 10m Climb the bulging wall above via a crack system to a large white platform to join All Along the Watchtower. Belay.
To escape, ab down to the grassy ledge at start of All Along the Watchtower (or finish up this route)
J. Mulhall, S.R. Young, 18/4/1976
GOLDEN OLDIES - SIDE ONE 33m VS (4b)
THe heavy growth of grass and lichen makes this an expedition for the foolhardy. It starts about 10m up from Terrace Corner in a niche below a small toppled holly tree.
From the niche climb up a few metres into a steep dirty corner with a quartz vein; move right onto a ledge and then up through holly to an overhung corner. Move left across a lichenous slab and then back right on better holds to a small ledge. Continue slightly left to a clean shallow groove in a wall; climb the groove and work up the steep slab to the left to the large white platform of All along the Watchtower. To escape, ab down to the grassy ledge at start of All Along the Watchtower (or finish up this route)
S.R. Young, J. Mulhall, P. Keegan, 25/10/1975
CONIFER BUTTRESS (CREAG CÓNAISÉARACH)
This area of rock lies above the long, vegetated Conifer Terrace which is marked by a few large conifers towards its right-hand end. The easiest way onto Conifer Terrace is at Terrace Corner just below Woody Wall where a short delicate traverse from South Gully gives access to the left-hand end of the Terrace. The climbing on Conifer Buttress is mainly on slabs although there are some steep corners and walls. There is a considerable overburden of turf in some places which affects the quality of the climbing, especially on the easier routes, some of which are poor and scrappy.
NO QUARTER ** 30m E1 (5b)
This excellent route, bold and delicate, takes a line close to the arête above Terrace Corner. Start just left of Terrace Corner.
Pull up onto a steep slab and then make committing moves across this for 3m to a vertical finger crack; use this to gain a ledge at the base of a clean-cut recess. Climb the left-hand wall via a ledge on the right to a small stance. Pull out right onto the face and follow a thin crack to a good foothold. Step up right and gain the arête (crux) which is followed to a tree belay. Escape by making a tricky scramble out left via a ledge or by abseiling to the gully.
R. Windrim, 5/9/1976 (previously top-roped).
MAN O' WAR ** 30m E3 (5c)
A fine route offering well-protected, technical climbing up the grooved wall between Aqualung and No Quarter, just right of Terrace Corner. Start at a niche 2m left of the dank corner of Aqualung
Follow the leftward-slanting crack until just a metre below the arête forming the left-hand edge of the wall. Make a delicate step back right onto an obvious foothold at the lip of the bulge (crux). Continue straight up the central groove-crackline and finish as for No Quarter to belay in the trees behind.
D. Ó Sullivan, T. Burke, 8/6/1986
AQUALUNG 32m VS (4c,4b)
Prone to seepage and spoiled by vegetation. Start just right of Terrace Corner at a steep corner crack in a recess. The two pitches may be combined into one.
1. 22m Move up the corner to the base of a wide shallow crack and climb this to gain a small ledge on the right with difficulty (crux). Continue more easily up the corner to a large ledge and belay.
2. 10m Follow the continuation of the corner crack to a tree belay. Alternatively, traverse out left from the belay ledge on an undercut flake and move up a slab to the trees.
Escape off by abseil from a tree or try traversing out left along ledges (about Severe).
K. Higgs, D. Windrim, 12/10/1975
STAGEFRIGHT ** 75m HVS (5a,5a,4a,4b)
Good climbing with an enjoyable first pitch and a bold, trying second pitch. Start 10m right of Terrace Corner at the base of a shallow white groove in a long narrow slab. Belay beneath the overlap on the right.
1. 30m Make an awkward step up left into a short groove. Climb this with difficulty and then move diagonally right up a ramp for 2m to a good crack; follow this to a wide grassy ledge below a short steep wall. Climb this wall directly. It is hard to start (old peg runner) and prone to seepage. Finish up a wide groove to the trees. Possible escape off left as for Aqualung.
A harder start (5a) to this pitch can be made by climbing the steep groove a few metres right of the normal start, to gain the crack above.
2. 18m Climb the short wall on the right behind the trees (aid of trees may be needed), move right, then up and back left. Make a hard move up to gain blocky holds beneath an overhang. Hand traverse left (crux) to a ledge on a sloping ramp. Move up the ramp to an obvious corner, climb this and pull out right onto a large ledge on the lake side of the face.
3. 12m From the left end of the ledge climb a groove in a wall to a large grass ramp. Go up diagonally left to a belay inside the big arête.
4. 15m As Pitch 3 of All Along The Watchtower.
K. Higgs, D. Windrim, 4/8/1976
CURVED AIR ** 85m VS (4a,4a,4b)
Enjoyable climbing in a fine situation. The route takes a more or less diagonal line leftwards up Conifer Buttress to an exposed and airy final stance high above Woody Wall. The first two pitches may be combined in one run out. Start just over 30m along the Terrace from Terrace Corner at the undercut base of a clean leftward-trending groove (thread and nut belay) at a patch of clean rock underfoot.
1. 20m Gain small ledges on the right and move left to the base of the groove. Climb an awkward bulge at 5m and follow the groove to a large white ledge and optional belay.
2. 28m Climb the crack on the left and gain the short slab to vegetated ground. Move rightwards for 5m along this vegetated ground, then move left to scramble directly up same ground to a short wall. Climb this short wall to another vegetated section. Then continue scrambling leftwards for 12m to reach a wall with an 8m wide horizontal undercut (with a flake hold above its centre). Old peg below.
3. 37m Crux pitch. Climb the overlap above the peg, using a flake jug, and immediately traverse back left to gain a broad crack in the centre of the wall. Climb this to a left-trending groove and crack; go up this with one awkward move. Follow a ramp diagonally left close to the arête until a furze-covered ledge and belay is reached.( This belay needs large gear to protect e.g. Black Diamond size 3 blue Camalot ).
R. Windrim, K. Higgs, 20/4/1976
HEAVENLY BLUE * 85m HVS (5a,4a,4a)
An interesting route on clean rock for most of its length. The crux is short but delicate and testing. The climb starts as for Curved Air.
1. 40m Pull up onto small ledges on the right and go up further right for a few metres to gain a narrow and diminishing left-trending ramp. Follow the ramp and then the continuation crack until it peters out below a bulge. Surmount this delicately (crux) and scramble over vegetated ground to the middle of the undercut wall to belay as for Curved Air.
2. 15m Traverse out right below a bulge until sloping ledges can be gained. Traverse along these to the base of a long sloping corner.
3. 30m Climb the long corner and the arête above it to easier ground.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 3/5/1991
BREATHING SPACE 73m VS (4a,4c)
The first pitch is scrappy. The reasonable top pitch can be reached by starting up either Curved Air or Heavenly Blue.
Start about 20m right of Curved Air below a vegetated groove on the left side of a large nose of rock.
1. 40m Climb the groove for a few metres and then go left across a slab to a narrow heather ledge. Traverse along this and at its left end delicately gain the slab above. Continue up left to a heather rake. Either follow this easily or climb a sloping slab on the right to reach a short wall. Pull up onto a grass ledge. Move up diagonally left to the nut and old peg belay at the undercut wall which is shared with Curved Air.
2. 33m Climb the bulge on the right and move up slightly right to reach an overlap with a left-trending flake crack. Pull up onto the slab left of the crack (crux) and move up slightly left to a shallow groove system. Follow this directly to belay at large blocks. Thread belay. Scramble easily to the top.
K. Higgs, T. Hand, 12/8/1979
OTIS 84m S (3c)
Just right of Breathing Space at the base of a large nose of rock which is in line with the distinctive corner of Highway above.
1. 30m Climb the nose to a grassy ledge and then move diagonally left to a grassy ledge. Climb a steep, delicate slab and mantelshelf onto a ledge.
2. 17m Move right and climb a small slab to a spike at 6m on the right wall. Swing across on the spike and continue up steep rock and heather to a long grassy shelf. Thread belay up slightly to the right.
3. 12m Ignoring easier heather grooves, move diagonally left from the belay along a short ramp until possible to climb a crack just right of an arête to a huge heather shelf.
4. 25m Climb the easy slabs above to a ledge and finish up two short walls on the right.
F. Winder, A. C. Crichton, M. Brachi, P. Crean, 29/5/1950.
POST-PRANDIAL VARIATION 80m HS (4b)
Originally this was a variation on Otis but it is actually better than the original. Start as for Otis.
1. 28m Climb the nose to a grass ledge and move left a little to climb an open groove to where it steepens. Move left for 2m across a small slab. Climb short walls and vegetated ledges, moving back slightly right to a groove below a large overhang. Climb the groove to a grass niche directly under the overhang.
2. 15m Move left out of the niche and traverse delicately along the lower edge of a slab to the rib forming its left edge (crux). Continue up the rib to the left edge of the overhang and, with an awkward step left, pull up onto the long grassy shelf and belay as for Otis.
Finish up the last two pitches of Otis.
P. Kenny, W.R.Perrott, J. Lynam, 25/6/1950
HIGHWAY ** 70m VS (4c,4a)
Takes the obvious clean corner groove above the Otis nose. The first pitch is well worthwhile, the avoidable second pitch is much less so. Start as for Otis at the base of the large rock nose.
1. 35m Either climb the nose to a ledge (preferable) or the groove left of the nose to the same ledge. Scramble up to the base of a cracked groove and climb this, passing a bulge. Continue up the sharply cracked steep corner with the crux moves near the top. Belay on a recessed ledge from where it is possible to escape back right to Conifer Terrace.
2. 35m Climb directly above the belay for 15m to a small undercut buttress on the right. Move up the left side of this and then traverse steeply back onto a ledge on the front face of the buttress. Climb onto a higher ledge on the right and continue more directly to the top.
D. Windrim, S. Windrim, K. Higgs, 5/9/1976
Top pitch added by K. Higgs, P. Ewan, 16/7/1977
BYWAY * 33m HVS (5a)
Takes a direct line up to the right of the Highway corner with an exposed upper section. Start as for Breathing Space just left of the Otis nose at the base of slabs.
Climb the wall via a flake to a short shallow groove and up this to a ledge. Climb up onto a foot-ledge and then gain a crack-line above. Follow this to a horizontal break under the projecting base of the arête above. Gain the arête directly and follow it closely, using holds on its left edge (some protection on the right).
To escape, scramble over to the right and back down to the Terrace.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 7/6/1987
ABOVE THE WAVES 72m HVS (4c,5a)
A contrived line with some difficult sections but the situations are good. Start to the right of the Otis nose on the left-hand side of a compact area of slabby rock capped by an overhang.
1. 45m Climb up and then right to a shallow crack; then up delicately to a broad sloping ledge below an overhang. Take the overhang on the left and then go up to a heather terrace and a steep area of rock which is climbed via flakes near its left side to reach another terrace. Further steep rock is followed to belay in a corner below overhangs.
2. 27m Move up to a steep wall on the left of the overhangs. Climb this and swing out right to gain a ledge above the overhang. Move up to a square-shaped rock nose which can be taken on its right side and continue up the slab to another groove beneath an overhang. Climb the groove a short distance and then bridge out to a steep wall on the right. Up delicately to belay with small wires slightly to the right.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 7/6/1987
HIGHER RAPTURES * 42m HVS (5b,4b)
Start just right of Above the Waves near the left-hand side of a compact undercut slab capped by an overhang.
1. 22m Gain a finger crack directly with difficulty near the left side of the slab. Move up to a steep awkward section and surmount this to reach grassy ground and a belay.
2. 20m Follow a fairly central line through an area of steep and clean rock above, finishing beneath an obvious horizontal overhang.
Escape down right to the Terrace.
J. Lyons, J. Stark, 7/9/1990
OFFSIDE 23m HVS (5a)
Takes a thin crack-line in the central area of the compact slab.
Starts a few metres to the right of Higher Raptures. Follow the crack-line diagonally left for a few metres to a bulge. Pass this with difficulty (crux) and continue up to the overhang. Traverse right for 3-4 metres until it is possible to delicately gain the slab above and finish.
J. Lyons, L. Kennan, 8/10/1988
SWEET ERICA 64m S (3c)
A poor, heather-infested route which starts below a slab some 20m left of the large conifers.
1. 30m Climb the left-trending slab in the corner below the overhang. Continue up past heather ledges and a steep corner to a large heather ledge below the right side of an overhang.
2. 9m Move up and diagonally left below the overhang.
3. 25m Climb a short wall above to a small tree and finish up the wall to the right.
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, D. Fawcett, 14/11/1971
CROCKS' CRAWL 57m D
Another heather expedition starting left of some large old trees at the top of a grassy slope by an undercut niche.
1. 30m Climb diagonally left across easy slabs and vegetated ground to a heathery ledge below the right side of an overhang.
2. 9 m Traverse left along the heather ledge below the overhang.
3. 23m Move out left and climb past a jutting nose of rock to reach a large grassy platform and possible belay. Go up the scoop on the left and exit left (exposed) or surmount the large dubious block to the right of the scoop (latter not recommended)
W. R. Perrott, W. J. Perrott, 27/3/1949
ORANMORE 50m VD
Start as for Crocks' Crawl close to trees.
1. 25m Climb the slab leftwards to the foot of a wall at about 18m (possible belay). Edge further left and make tricky moves to gain the grassy ground above. Go up right to the foot of a broad mossy ramp. There is a good block belay high on the right.
2. 12m Climb a V groove on the right of the ramp passing an awkward bulge at half-height until a good ledge beneath overhangs is reached.
3. 13m Climb the slanting chimney to below a jutting prow of rock and exit left or right of this.
B. Hilton-Jones, W. R. Perrott, F. Winder, J. Fitzgerald, L. Ó Reagain, J. Lynam, 19/6/1949
BROWNE VARIATION 29m VD
2a. 16m At the foot of the wall at 18m on Pitch 1 traverse left for 3m and climb a shallow scoop to reach the top of Pitch 2.
3a. 13m Move out left and up easy slabs below the roof to the top.
F. Winder party, 19/6/1949
ESCALATOR * 50m VS (4a,4c)
Takes a diagonal line along the left flank of a long wall with overhangs. Start at the right-hand of two conifers (the living one), a few metres right of the start of Oranmore
1. 25m Climb the right edge of the slab where it abuts the wall, taking a diagonal line leftwards. Where the slab narrows near the top take a slightly higher line, squeezing delicately left along the wall to a short crack 1 - 2m short of the vegetated ledges. Pull up onto the ledge above and scramble up for about 5m, passing under a large overhang to belay beneath an overhanging block.
2. 25m Move out left for 1 - 2m along the base of a wall and climb it directly to gain a ledge. Move up left of a large jammed flake to a sloping ledge and traverse left beneath a square-cut overhang and go up a short groove under a larger overhang. Move delicately left around a block and cross a gully to gain the lower edge of a slab which is traversed to its furthest limit. Finish up along the left edge of the slab.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 21/5/1991
CHEATER 40m S (4a)
A meandering route which starts about 20m right of the large old conifers at a slab below an overhanging corner.
1. 25m Climb the easy slab to the base of the corner and traverse left to the edge of the slab. Climb up a groove to a higher slab. Traverse right across this into a corner, crossing Humble Pie. Move slightly down and around the corner (exposed and tricky) to a grass ledge on the right and belay. (Watch out for rope drag on this pitch)
2. 15m Climb the slab above to the bottom of a groove; traverse right, then back left and exit up a steep wall on good holds.
P. Redmond, T. Murphy, 4/5/1971
HUMBLE PIE * 48m HVS (5a,5a)
A rather broken climb up a series of steep corners on the left side of a vertical wall; two of the corners are strenuous test pieces.
Start about 20m right of the conifers, at the slab below the line of the three big corners.
1. 25m Climb the right edge of the slab to an overhanging corner. Surmount this and move up a short groove to a slab which is followed easily to below a second steep corner, capped by two narrow blocks.
2. 23m Climb up steeply to gain thin finger slots in the corner. Go up this and exit left at the blocks. Move up to yet another steep corner and climb this on good holds to gain the narrow slab above (awkward). Follow the delicate stepped ramp to the top. Belay well back.
K. Higgs, D. Windrim, 11/9/1976
FUMBLE HIGH ** 45m E1 (5b,5a)
A short but strenuous and technical crux with protection which is awkward to arrange. Start beneath a left-trending crack in the overhanging wall, just down from the Humble Pie corner.
1. 18m Gain height and move left with difficulty to reach a good crack (crux); go up this and move left along a ramp to a short wall which is gained to reach a flat ledge. Follow a diagonal crack to belay (escape back to the Terrace is possible from here).
2. 27m A fine pitch which follows a groove-line through the overhang above. Continue up the groove directly above the belay. Move slightly left to the arête and climb up to the slab below the overhang. Surmount the overhang and follow the groove above until forced to step left. Follow the edge until possible to move straight up the slab to the top. Belay well back.
S. Windrim, T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 1/8/1977.
HIGH AND DRY ** 16m E3 (5c)
A strenuous climb which takes the thin crack up the wall to the right of Fumble High. Start as for Fumble High to gain the crack and follow it with increasing difficulty to the top.
D. Ó Sullivan, 11/7/1987.
TUMBLEDOWN * 13m E1 (5b)
Takes an overhanging cracked groove, 8m to the right of Fumble High. The strenuous nature of the crux may make protection difficult to place.
Move up left into a niche and then back right to the base of the groove. Move strenuously to easier ground. For a clean finish step left from the groove onto a slab and climb it to the top.
J. Lyons, J. Ó Reilly, 1/8/1990.
TEMPTATION 57m S (3c)
Start around the corner from the Fumble High wall at the base of easy angled slabs, 10m to the left of the lone pine tree at the northern end of the Terrace.
1. 20m Climb easily up slabs to the left and move up and around a corner to a grassy ledge below a short groove.
2. 16m Climb the groove wih difficulty and move left along a narrow furze ledge into a corner below an overhang. Exit right on good holds to gain a grass ledge and belay 3m further to the right.
3. 21m Climb directly up to the final wall, then delicately left below an insecure-looking block and swing onto the brow of the overhang. Move up vegetation to a second overhang which is passed on the right, using a broad, horizontal crack. Finish up easy slabs to belay.
C. MacMahon, J. Lynam, D. Kelly, P. Hepple, J. Fitzgerald, L. Ó Reagain, 25/6/1950.
SQUAWK * 40m HS (4a,4b)
Takes the clean-cut overhanging corner on the rock-prow high above the start of Temptation. The corner is interesting although there is little else to recommend. Start as for Temptation.
1. 20m Climb diagonally leftward up a slab or climb directly onto the slab (harder). After 10m move up to a curving crack in the backwall; go up this to a large grassy ledge and move 3m along this to a crack and belay.
2. 20m Gain the ledge above and move right to the obvious corner. Climb up to a large flake and climb the overhanging corner on sharp holds. Move up the slab above to a crack and final belay. Scramble off easily to the top.
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 16/4/1977.
BACK TO SCHOOL 62m HS (4b,3c)
Combines elements of Squawk and Temptation with a line directly up the slab above the first pitch of Squawk.
1. 52m Start as for Temptation. Move up the slab and follow the curved crack of Squawk to the large grassy ledge. Move slighly left and up the blank slab to beneath the overhang. Move left around the overhang using an insecure-looking block. Good belay just around the corner. If using 50m ropes a dubious belay can be used beneath the overhang as for the 2nd pitch of "Temptation".
2.10m Finish easily up to belay.
D. Madden, I. Christie, 31/8/2010.
HARVEST * 13m E1 (5c)
Starts in the undercut corner below and slightly left of the corner crux of Squawk. This point is reached by climbing Pitch 1 of Squawk.
Move out left and up over ledges to the leftward-slanting cracked groove; climb this which steepens near the top (crux).
C. Ó Cofaigh, N. Grimes, 31/8/1991.
SEARCHER * 15m VS (4c)
Start as for Harvest. Move up to the ledge below the crux corner of Squawk and climb the shallow groove slanting up to the left.
N. Grimes, C. Ó Cofaigh, 31/8/1991.
PALPITATION 16m HVS (5b)
Starts directly behind the pine tree. The line is contrived to avoid the vegetated groove on the right leading up to the overhanging corner.
Climb up the slab and surmount the overlap about 4m left of the holly tree to gain a shallow groove in the higher slab. Traverse boldly right on tiny edges (crux), entering the corner just above the vegetation. Climb the short overhanging corner out right on good holds to a stance and belay.
J. Lyons, 20/6/1991.
