Luggala Main Face
Printed guidebook available here
This impressive expanse of rock is located between the slabs of South and Conifer Buttresses and the deep cleft of North Gully. The face is steep and split by a succession of overhangs. The rock is generally clean and free from the ubiquitous heather. The exposed, airy nature of the climbing is emphasised by the magnificent situation high above the waters of Lough Tay. The Main Face has some of the finest and hardest test-pieces at Luggala and with all those overhangs the future for hard rock desperadoes seems assured. It also has quite a number of adequately protected good climbs at grades between VS and E1.
There are several means of access to the Main Face. The left-hand upper wing of the Face is approached via Conifer Terrace. Climbs such as Banshee which start at the lowest point of the Face are approached by way of the steep grassy slopes to the far right of South Buttress which lead to grassy rakes and terraces above the Main Face Slabs. A number of climbs are reached from the right-hand side of the Face by traversing in from North Gully.
The first climbs described are found on the left-hand side of the Main Face, mainly below the Great Roof. They are best approached from Conifer Terrace via a narrowing in the Terrace at a shattered pillar. Some of the climbs begin directly off this right-hand end of the Terrace but others must be reached by scrambling up vegetated ground from the Terrace for 10 - 15m. All of these routes can also be reached from the top of the crag by scrambling down easy-angled slabs and vegetated gullies between Conifer Buttress and the Main Face. This is a quick approach from the top of Luggala but since the best line of descent may not be easy to find it is best suited to those who are familiar with the crag. This is ground where one could not afford to slip.
CLAIDHEAMH SOLAIS * 62m VS (4b)
Worthy of attention only for its final pitch with its delicate and exposed exit at the left-hand end of the Great Roof. The lead-up to the rock-climbing proper is nothing more than an extended heather scramble; far better to approach the final pitch via the other alternatives now available, with a Clingon - Claideamh Solais link-up being but one of the possibilities. The indeterminate start is about 35m right of the Scots pine on the Terrace and below the Great Roof.
1. 33m Scramble up the heathery gullies and slabs diagonally left until just above the level of a line of overlaps traversing the face on the right; a jutting prow is about 12m above.
2. 13m Traverse right along an obvious ledge-line for nearly 10m and step around an arête to a rock shelf. There is a good belay about half-way along the shelf.
3. 16m Climb the slab above, which is delicate, to the overhang and move left to the bottom of an obvious short groove. Move up until an exposed traverse right to a groove can be made (crux); up this to the top and a block belay. The belay platform is slanting. There is a letterbox placement at the top of the ramp and the block is off to the left of the ramp.When the second is secure at the block ensure that the leader is protected as the belay is being stripped.
T. Hand, J. McKenzie, 1/5/1971
PISCES * 118m HVS (?,4a,4a,4b,5a)
Start as for Claidheamh Solais.
1. 33m. Pitch 1 of Claidheamh Solais
2. 15m Move straight up to a bulge and then traverse diagonally right towards the exit groove of Claidheamh Solais. Belay just below the groove.
3. 27m Traverse right for 7m, descend for 2m and then right for 5m before descending a juggy groove for 5m (as for Pentax) to the obvious line on the right which is followed for 7m to the large ledge and spike belay.
4. 25m Cross the slab delicately to the corner, climb out right and then traverse right to the stance in the corner below the roof.
5. 18m Climb the crux pitch of Spearhead to the top.
S.R. Young, D. Ó Murchú, 1/9/1973
The next group of climbs starts about 15m up from the Terrace beneath a steep body of rock on the left side of the Main Face. This buttress-like area of rock is traversed by a line of small overhangs.
ALONG THE EDGE * 40m VS (4b)
Takes a line up the left edge of the Main Face. To start, scramble about 15m up a grassy gully from the Terrace to reach the bottom of a cracked gully-line just left of the steep slabs which are capped by a line of small overhangs at about 8m.
1. 40m Climb up the cracked gully for about 10m to a sloping ledge below an overlap. Move left for 1 - 2m to gain the base of the V-shaped groove above the overlap. Step out left onto a very narrow subsidiary slab along the edge of the main slab; follow this delicately until an easy-angled break below quartz-seamed slabs is reached. Climb these slabs up to the left side of projecting overhangs and work up beneath these to the finish.
The difficult traverse along the overlap can be avoided by moving along the ledge beneath the overlap until a groove in the slab above can be gained. Go up the groove and swing rightwards onto the slab before moving up to the break (4a).
J. Lyons, 28/6/1992
PATHFINDER * 40m VS (4c,4a)
Starts on a huge square block just right of the gully of Along the Edge at a protruding flake below the left side of a steep undercut slab. Belay to the left in the cracked gully.
1. 18m Gain the left side of the slab with difficulty, using the flake as a foothold until a good handhold on a faint rib of rock 2m higher can be gained. Move up beneath an overhanging block and gain the top of this block from the right. Work out left along a ramp beneath overhanging rock until the base of a V-shaped groove is reached; this ramp traverse becomes delicate and exposed near the end but a handhold high on the wall on the right will ease the difficulty somewhat. Climb the groove to a ledge and belay in a low crack to the left.
2. 22m Move back right and up the right wall via a flake spike to a sloping ledge from where a leftward-slanting cracked overlap can be gained. Continue up to an obvious blocky quartz hold at the end of the overlap just beneath a heathery groove. Move across left for 2m and finish up to the top. Alternatively traverse out right and, with the aid of a crescent-shaped hold above, pull up right and climb the steeper rock above to the finish.
J. Lyons, 7/6/1992
GATEWAY ** 50m E1 (5b,5a)
Although this is a somewhat eliminate line it offers good climbing on clean rock.
Start just right of Pathfinder beneath the steep undercut slab with a short finger crack.
1. 20m Gain the slab with difficulty using the short finger crack (do not resort to the flake on the left). Move up delicately to better holds beneath the overhang. Intrepidly surmount the overhang through a slight opening in its centre. Move up to a short wall to the left of a crack. Climb this on its left edge to a ledge and belay to the right on this ledge as for Claidheamh Solais.
2. 30m Move back left along the ledge below the roof. Move out left and delicately gain a white quartzy groove to the left of the Clingon chimney finish. Finish up easier ground diagonally left to a belay which is well back.
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/6/1992
THE TRAVELLER'S JOURNEY ** 40m VS (4c,4b)
An enjoyable route which starts just right of Gateway at the right-hand side of the undercut slab.
1. 20m Gain a ledge on the right and traverse delicately left around a bulge to gain a large ledge above on the right. Alternatively, gain this ledge by starting on the bottom left of the undercut slab (as for Pathfinder) before making a rising traverse towards the ledge. Move up left via a ramp, passing a bulge to reach the base of a wide crack in the wall on the right. Climb this to a horizontal ledge and belay a few metres to the right as for Claidheamh Solais.
2. 20m Move back left for about 4m and follow a partial crack-line delicately to ledges beneath the groove on Claidheamh Solais. Finish up either the chimney of Clingon or the exit traverse and final groove of Claidheamh Solais.
J. Lyons, 7/6/1992
CHARON * 30m E1 (5a)
Requires confidence, protection in places is either hard to find or to arrange. Start about 10m up from Conifer Terrace to the right of a narrow slab and just less than 10m below the huge square block on top of which the previous three climbs begin. Thread belay on a block.
Move up a slab to a corner on the right side of the block. Climb this to a ledge and then gain another ledge on the left. Move up left onto a steep slab (wire runner further to the left) and then slightly right and up the bulging wall to a horizontal blind crack and a slanting crack above it on the right to gain a large ledge. Move right a little and up a short wall or rib of rock to a steep slab. Follow a diagonal flared crack in the slab to a ledge. Belay on the left on the ledge as for Claidheamh Solais. Finish by escaping off left along the ledge-line or by continuing up directly to the top via a choice of other routes.
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 27/6/1992
DAWN SWEPT * 33m E1 (5b)
An intricate line with a bold crux sequence. Start as for Charon at a thread belay below the large square block.
Scramble up right to a short wall and slab and move up its left edge going diagonally left for about 10m until it is possible to gain the ledge on the wall on the right. Go up right onto a short rib of rock and gain height until it is possible to traverse leftwards via an exposed and difficult ramp (crux) to reach the wide ledge above. Move up left to a slight bulge and make a long step out right to the short wall on the right to gain the lower end of a large slab. Straight up this delicately to the Claidheamh Solais belay on the horizontal gangway. Escape off left easily via the ledge-line or finish up via a choice of other routes.
M. McSherry, J. Lyons, 13/6/1992
HERITAGE ASSASSINS 54m HVS (5b,4c,4b)
This route takes a direct line up steep slabs to the crux overlap of Clingon. Above this it follows cracked grooves to the right of and parallel to the Clingon groove. Start at the base of a narrow slab just above a shattered block on Conifer Terrace and about 15m left of the start of Spearhead.
1. 16m Climb the steep narrow slab (bold and difficult) to the left of the crack. Continue up a higher slab directly to the crux of Clingon. An easier but pleasant alternative takes the crack on the right of the narrow slab and the right-hand side of the slab above to reach the Clingon belay (4a/b)
2. 23m Climb the Clingon overlap and a small overlap above and to the right of the Clingon groove. Move up to reach a line of cracks and follow these going slightly left (Pentax goes up a cracked corner further to the right) to a good belay position 4 - 5m below the roof.
3. 15m Move left beneath the roof and finish up as for Clingon or Claidheamh Solais.
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 27/6/1992
CLINGON ** 50m VS (3c,4c,4b)
A delightful route on the airy Main Face which takes the Spearhead start off Conifer Terrace.
1. 13m Climb Pitch 1 of Spearhead.
2. 20m From the belay move up to the left and climb the overlap (crux) working diagonally right to a stance on the rock above. Move back left a little and climb the obvious groove which becomes delicate near the top. Gain an excellent belay ledge, shared with Claidheamh Solais.
3. 17m Move back right and follow a flaky crack to the roof. Move left and gain the groove of Claidheamh Solais. Climb this and then the awkward chimney continuation above it, working left before an exit to the right near the top of the slab to a block belay.
C. Rice, P. Redmond, 9/10/1971
PENTAX * 50m VS (3c,4b,4b)
Start as for Spearhead
1. 13m Climb Pitch 1 of Spearhead.
2. 25m From the belay make a long step right onto the small ledge as for the start of Spearhead. Then go straight up a short wall to a sloping ledge. Move up slightly left (just above the Clingon groove) and then up a short corner to the right and a flaky groove directly above to the roof. Traverse delicately left beneath the roof to belay at the bottom of a groove.
3. 12m Move up the groove, traverse out right as for the crux of Claidheamh Solais and finish up this route.
S. R. Young, D. Ó Murchú, 1/9/1973.
SPEARHEAD ** 62m HVS (3c,4b,4a,5a)
Mostly Severe or easier as far as the Great Roof but the spectacular situation of the short crux section gives a memorable experience. Start on Conifer Terrace directly below the Great Roof in a short corner beneath an overlap to the left of which are slabs.
1. 13m Go up an easy slab on the left, veer right to a flake crack and continue up a leftward-sloping slab to a small belay stance at a cracked block.
2. 21m From the belay make a long step right to a small tilted ledge. Move across to the right and then up to a long diagonal fault which is followed to a short steep corner.
3. 10m Climb the corner and traverse out right to a stance in the corner beneath the Great Roof (old pegs and nut belay).
4. 18m The short but exposed crux sequence involves a hand traverse out right followed by a swing around the arête onto a slab and an awkward step up. Finish easily up the slabs.
J. H. Deacon, V. Stephenson, F. Winder 10/8/1959
The Great Roof *** E6 5c,6c
An exceptional route which exploits a strenuous line of weakness on one of the crags most challenging features. Start on the Conifer Terrace directly below the Great Roof beneath an overlap, as for Spearhead.
1) 5c 22m Climb up through the overlap (crux) to a series changing corners and grooves, joining Razorback for a couple of meters before continuing directly up the white slab to a ledge below the roof. Traverse rightward along the ledge then up onto the hanging slab to belay.
2) 6c 15m From the belay move up and left to the base of the roof. climb horizontally outward (for 4m past two peg runners, crux) on undercuts to gain the lip and an easier mantle to regain the vertical.
R. Browner, J. Gernon and R. MacAllister. 29.08.11
RAZORBACK *** 53m E4 (6b,5a)
Takes an intricate line up the Main Face to the left of The Gannets. Start below the crux groove of The Gannets near the right-hand end of Conifer Terrace. Belay in the cracked corner as for Spearhead.
1. 35m Move out right and climb a slab to a thin crack; climb up and rightwards to the base of the clean-cut crux corner of The Gannets (old peg). From here sequence out leftwards along the prominent break to an undercut overlap. Mantel this at its left end and then doddle back right to reach the huge left-facing corner which is climbed in a spectacular situation to a belay beneath the right-hand side of the Great Roof.
2. 18m Finish up the final pitch of Spearhead.
D. Ó Sullivan, C. Sheridan, May 1988.
THE GANNETS *** 85m E3 (4b,5c,5a)
The crux pitch offers exposed and strenuous climbing on very steep rock. Reasonable protection. Start about 30m to the right and 20m below the start of Spearhead on a grassy ramp at the right-hand end of Conifer Terrace. The start of the crux pitch may also be reached by working up diagonally right from the start of Spearhead (see Razorback) or by traversing across right from the start of Pitch 2 of Spearhead.
1. 25m Climb the slab to the left of the corner and move back right to the corner. Climb this until it steepens and eventually move out onto a sloping ledge.
2. 25m Descend from the belay to a ramp running left. Traverse across this and climb up the slab to a thin crack. Move up and rightwards to the base of a clean-cut greenish corner (old peg). Climb the corner and move around the nose to gain a steep groove; go up this to good holds in a horizontal crack. Pull up and gain a small foot-ledge on the arête to the right. Step right and climb the groove with difficulty to a large ledge on the right.
3. 35m Climb the detached block on the right and move off this to gain a slabby groove on the left. Continue up to a short overhanging corner which is climbed until it is possible to swing out onto slabby rock on the right. Continue more easily up these slabs to a belay.
C. Rice, P. Redmond, (3 aid points) 18/4/1971
S. Billane, J. McKenzie, (2 aid points), 1973
K. Higgs, J. Colton, (1 aid point), May 1977
K. Murphy, C. Torrans, (First free ascent), 21/5/1984
JUNIPER JUNCTION *** 95m E5 (5c,6b,5a)
Sensational climbing on the edge of the buttress between The Gannets and Soyuz Ten. Although steep and very strenuous the presence of two peg runners in the area of the crux will stiffen your resolve.
Start on the grassy ramp that forms the right-hand end of Conifer Terrace about 4m left of Soyuz Ten below a left-facing corner.
1. 30m Move onto the slab and climb the corner to exit onto a huge ledge via a perched block. Move right across the ledge to the horizontal crack running through the blunt arête. Follow the crack right and then move back up left, as for Soyuz Ten, into a left-facing corner which leads to the belay for the aforementioned Russian neighbour.
2. 30m Follow Soyuz Ten again for a few moves to the right and mantelshelf onto a higher ledge. Now move precariously left and upwards to a position under the roof and two peg runners. Decide on and then execute the difficult sequence of moves leftwards under the roof to the lip before pulling up onto better holds (crux). Continue to an exposed stance below the hanging corner using hidden sidepulls on the left to gain initial momentum. Exit onto the white steep wall and traverse rightwards over the roof to an easy groove which leads to the garden belay of The Gannets.
3. 35m Finish up the last pitch of The Gannets.
D. Ó Sullivan, J. Dugdale, 1/9/1991
SOYUZ TEN ** 70m E3 (5c,5c)
Another impressive and sensationally exposed climb taking the prominent hanging groove up the steep buttress forming the centre of the Main Face. Start about 4 - 5m right of the start of The Gannets.
1. 30m Pull onto the slab and go up this to the overhang on the right. Climb this strenuously, pulling out right to a stance. Move up right and climb steeply to a wide crack in a flake. Traverse left to the arête, pull around this and move up to a small stance (old belay peg and good nuts).
2. 40m From the belay traverse out right, either by following a low line or by a mantelshelf onto a higher ledge. Climb the steep wall just left of an old peg runner. (The original ascent used a peg,now gone, for aid and went up to the right). Move up to a small slab (resting place) below a hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and climb it with further difficulty to reach better holds. Continue directly up and move slightly left at a horizontal flake. Go up easy slabs to a thread belay at a block.
S. Billane, P. McHugh, (3 points of aid), June 1970.
J. Levi, R. Richardson, (2 points of aid), 1976
R. Dean, T. Curtis, (first free ascent), 1982
SEARCH FOR SPOCK ** 45m E3 (6a)
This excellent route runs through the overhangs at the abseil point for Zodiac. To reach the start traverse in left via the first two pitches of Zodiac from North Gully or via Soyuz Ten and Zodiac at 6a but beware some loose blocks. Belay at the blocks.
Work up a weakness in the overhang and surmount the bulge using undercuts to reach small but firm holds above, which deposit you in a shallow area below a large overlap. Climb this to reach a steep crack which eases with height. Continue up the slabs to belay.
T. Burke, C. Torrans, 1986
MAIN FACE TRAVERSE * 79m VS (4c,4b,4a,3c)
This route crosses the lower section of the Main Face between two lines of overhangs. Start below and to the right of the Soyuz Ten start at a small slab on the Face.
1. 12m Moving right, climb a slab and the corner above to pull out right. Move further right to a vegetation patch and ascend to the bottom of a vegetated ramp.
2. 25m Climb diagonally right on small holds which become larger until a perched block can be gained. Traverse right to belay at an enormous block (top of Pitch 2 of Banshee).
3. 27m Traverse right behind the block and across easy grass ledges. Descend a slab (awkward) below a roof (top of Pitch 1 of Messiah).
4. 15m Traverse right and descend slightly. Step across to a grassy ledge. Move up a few metres before escaping easily into North Gully.
B. Healy, F. Winder, May 1959.
BANSHEE ** 135m E2 (5c,4a,5a,5a,4a)
Another blockbuster taking the central part of the Main Face. Start by scrambling up grassy slopes above the Main Face Slabs to the lowest point of the Main Face right of the vegetated end of South Buttress. Belay on slabby rock below a short ramp leading left.
1. 30m Climb the left-trending ramps and slabs to a grassy ledge. Move up a short steep corner on the right to gain a shoulder and step up to the right and then back left into a groove. Follow the groove with increasing difficulty to the overhang. Climb the overhang (crux) and continue up a short shallow groove to a small stance with a nut and old peg belay.
2. 22m Follow a grassy crack and then traverse left for a few metres. Follow a crack up the slab to blocks below the overhanging wall. Traverse right across the blocks to belay at a large detached block.
3. 13m Climb onto the detached block and up the short wall on the right which is hard to start. Move up the slab above to a flake crack belay.
4. 30m A fine pitch which starts directly up the quartzy rib below an overhang. Gain the overhang on good holds and make an awkward move left into a groove. Follow this to a resting place on the left. Traverse steeply right on large holds and move up the line of weakness to reach a heathery groove. Continue up for 3m to belay on a slab below an overhanging wall.
-15. 40m Traverse easy slabs left to the base of a chimney. Climb the chimney and pull out left onto slabs which are followed to the top.
VARIATION 3a. 13m The original line on Pitch 3 used a peg for aid to gain an overhanging corner on the left from the top of the detached block. The corner was then climbed and a slab above it to the same belay.
C. Rice, D. Milnes, (3 aid points), June 1972
J. Levi, R. Richardson, (2 aid points), April 1976; they discovered the free variation on Pitch 3.
K. Higgs, J. Colton, (first free ascent), May 1977; they eliminated the aid points on Pitch 1.
PRECIOUS METAL ** E7 6b, 6c, 5c 130m
A mega line up the Main Face, with a burly second pitch of technical steepness. The route begins on the grassy slopes above the Main Face Slabs. Start directly below a short right facing corner beneath the left end of the large roof that overhangs the slab.
1. (50m) Ascend the slab via overlaps and flakes to the corner which steepens to an awkward and serious exit (#2 RP) left onto a ledge. Traverse left across sloping ledges for 10m to belay at an ivy tangled block below a short left trending corner capped by a roof.
2. (20m) Climb easily up into the corner, then left with increasing difficulty to a stance below the roof. Crank rightward out beneath the roof, around the arête and onto the face, then up into a shallow niche to reach the base of a thin crack and layaways, which lead through the crux to improving holds as the angle eases below a large roof. Traverse out right under the roof to the old peg belay of Search for Spock.
3. (60m) Continue traversing rightwards under the roof for 7m, to where a committing outward stretch into a hanging corner breaches the roof and leads to easier ground on the slabs above.
A good rack of cams is useful.
Pitch 1 R. Browner and R. MacAllister. 29 May 2013
Pitches 2 & 3 R. Browner, P. Nolan. 26 June 2013 (Redpoint)
CALAMITY JANE 45m HVS (5a, 5b, 4c)
Start a few meters left of Banshee.
1. 20m Climb up onto the slabs using undercuts and pinches. Climb the slab above trending rightwards to belay at a short corner, below where the ground steepens.
2. 10m Climb the corner, then go leftwards below the larger roof to exit onto slab. Belay.
3. 15m Move right over the slabs to the base of the left-leaning corner. Bridge up this to belay at the large detached block at the top of the second pitch of Banshee/Main Face Traverse.
From here Zodiac, Banshee or Main Face Traverse can be followed to finish.
P. Keane, P. Owens, 3/10/1998. (Pitch 1 previously climbed - old chocks at belay).
QUESTION MARK 35m HVS (5a)/A3
This route runs up the slabs to the large overhanging corner which is aided to the top. Start on the grassy platform above Main Face Slabs almost 10m left of Messiah and to the left of an overlap.
1. 18m Climb up to the left of the overlap using layaway holds to a small ledge. Traverse left a little and then up a right-trending grassy crack to a grass ledge. Move up slightly and then right to a hard traverse to a belay ledge.
2. 17m Move up the slab to the overhanging corner and peg up this, the difficulty increasing with height to a finishing move on a sky hook.
R. Richardson, P. MacMeniman, August 1975.
MESSIAH * 75m E1 (4c,5b,3c)
The first pitch is scruffy but the worthwhile crux pitch can be reached by traversing in from North Gully (VD) Start about 10m to the right of the overlap start of Question Mark and below a small triangular overhang. Belay in a horizontal crack.
1. 35m Climb a groove until a step left can be made onto a slabby arête. Go up this and then slightly right to an overlap. Climb this and follow a grassy groove on the right and pull onto a slabby ledge below a roof.
2. 25m Climb the overhang on the right (crux) and move up and around right to a thin slab. Move delicately up this to reach a small stance (protection a bit sparse, small wires needed). Go up cracks on the left and follow a line of weakness to a ledge below an overhang. Block belay.
3. 15m Traverse left below the overhang and climb up to easier ground on the ridge. Belay well back.
C. Rice, D. Milnes, J. Mulhall, (4 aid points) 17/6/1972
K. Higgs, S. Windrim, (First free ascent) 12/6/1976
GILT EDGE ** 60m HVS (5a,4b)
This delightful route follows the right edge of the Main Face. It requires careful route finding. Start on a wide grassy platform about 15m right of the giant block on the top of Pitch 2 of Banshee. This point can be reached most easily by traversing in from North Gully, across the top of Pitch 1 of Messiah (about VD).
1. 35m Pull onto a short undercut slab, go up this and then traverse diagonally left for 5m. Climb straight up to an overlap and over this to a small grassy stance on the right. Move out left again and up steeply (crux) to just below the headwall. Move up right to a stance and groove inside the arête. Climb the left side of the groove to a ledge. Move out left for 2m into an airy position, before pulling onto the slab above. Go up a few metres to a block belay on the right.
42. 25m Climb up to the right of the block and immediately traverse back left to reach good holds. Using these move up and after 6m continue up right before finishing up a delicate slab to the right of a vegetated corner. Belay well back.
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 19/8/1979
ZODIAC ** 160m E1 (4a,5a,-,5b,4b,4b,4c)
A marathon right to left girdle of the Main Face giving reasonable and sometimes excellent climbing in very exposed and quite serious situations. Start as for Gilt Edge
1. 20m From a grassy platform pull onto a short undercut slab and up this until possible to traverse easily left along the slabby line of weakness to a good stance and a nut belay in a crack.
2. 30m Traverse horizontally left for 15m to a narrow vegetated ledge with a pointed block at foot-level. Climb down at the block (exposed) to a lower traverse line. Follow the sloping ramp diagonally up left to cracked blocks just below the roof. Old peg and nut belay.
3. 10m From the blocks move left a few metres and, using tension from the belay peg, descend 3m to the obvious horizontal gangway below the roof. Old peg and nut belay.
4. 20m Traverse left along the diminishing gangway until it peters out. From a very cramped and exposed position make hard moves left to better holds and a small stance, just below the groove of Soyuz Ten. Belay behind flakes.
5. 15m Traverse easily left for 5m on a slab until it is possible to pull up over a bulge on good holds. Climb the obvious crack above to a large grassy ledge with a big block. Belay to the left of the block (top of Pitch 2 of The Gannets)
6. 20m From the left side of the ledge climb a narrow ramp diagonally left for 10m until it is possible to pull onto a slab below and to the left of the Spearhead roof finish. Traverse left a few metres and climb down and around into a corner (the top of Pitch 2 of Spearhead)
7. 45m From the corner step up and climb the slab delicately left to the obvious ledge below the roof. Follow this easily for 10m and then follow a juggy groove to the roof. Traverse left on good holds to the left end of the roof and instead of climbing the chimney finish of Clingon make a delicate step left to a narrow ramp and continue up the slab to the top. Much of this final pitch corresponds with Pisces in reverse although it does finish independently.
K. Higgs, H. Ó Brien, (one aid point) 9/9/1981
The following climbs are found on a steep wall adjoining the upper right-hand edge of the Main Face. They are most easily reached by descending to the left of North Gully from the top of the crag until the wall becomes visible on the right. Traverse carefully across slabs to reach the wall.
ASTERIX 40m E1 (5b)
Start beneath the obvious left-trending crack near the bottom left-hand side of the wall. Climb up to a stance at the beginning of the crack. Follow the crack leftwards passing dubious large blocks with care. Now make steep delicate moves (crux) to gain a ledge above. Move left for a few metres until it is possible to climb straight up easily to the top. Belay well back.
J. Lyons, L. Kennan, October 1988.
OBELIX * 27m E1 (5b)
Takes the central crack going slightly right on the wall above the slabs. Move up 2 - 3m to gain a narrow foot-ledge to the left of the crack. Make bold delicate moves rightwards to become established in the crack (crux). Good climbing to the top.
J. Lyons, October 1988.
MAIN FACE SLABS
Below the Main Face there is a large sweep of mostly easy-angled, vegetated slabs. They are separated from the Main Face by a grassy slope and terrace which can be easily traversed either to reach the start of Main Face routes or to move between South Buttress and North Buttress. Three old routes are recorded on these slabs but they are mostly broken and vegetated. There is a clean area near the left-hand side of the slabs where the next two routes have been recorded.
HAIRSPRING * 17m E1 (5a)
Start nearly half-way along a short wall which runs along the bottom of a mostly clean slab area on the left-hand side of the Main Face slabs. No protection.
Climb up slightly right over a short slab into a short, left-facing corner which is to the right of an obvious right-facing corner. Bridge up the short corner and gain the slab above. Launch straight up the slab, following an eliminate-type direct line to the top; going left or right is easier and reduces the grade. Thread belay well back.
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 4/10/1992.
GOSSAMER * 17m HVS (5a)
The route starts 4 - 5m to the right of Hairspring at an undercut niche beneath an S-shaped crack leading up to a crack going diagonally right on the slab above.
Bridge up the niche to gain the crack. Follow this to a small scoop at the top of the wall. From here launch out onto the slab, frictioning straight up to finish at its highest point.
J. Lyons, 12/7/1992.
ASH TREE SLABS 52m VD
Start in a small recess at the lowest left-hand end of the slabs and directly in line with a small ash tree.
1. 18m Climb the recess and continue up the vegetated crack in the slab above to a sloping grass ledge.
2. 18m Climb the next tier of slabs easily near its left end and move right across the grassy rake to a large flake belay.
3. 16m Climb the slab behind the flake, moving a little to the right. Belay on the grassy terrace below the Main Face. Escape down to the left.
A. C. Crichton, W.R. Perrott, D. Ó Sullivan, 19/6/1949.
PARENTS' CLIMB 65m D
Start about 40m right of Ash Tree Slabs and to the right of a short steep wall that runs along the base of the slabs above.
1. 40m Climb a groove in the slabs passing large blocks on the right to a stance on a grassy ledge. Follow a grassy line diagonally left, passing a concave slab which leads to a grass rake.
2. 25m Go straight up the slabs on small holds and move left to a deep crevasse behind a large flake where the route joins Ash Tree Slabs for a similar finish further up the grassy terrace.
A.C. Crichton, W.R. Perrott, D. Ó Sullivan, 19/6/1949.
GREAT GULLY BUTTRESS 100m M
This undesirable and somewhat dangerous vegetated scramble goes up the crest of the rocks to the left of North Gully. Keep as close as possible to the crest; halfway up bear a little left for slightly better climbing.
J.W. Millar, C. MacMahon, 27/3/1949.
