Luggala G & H Buttresses

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G BUTTRESS

G Buttress is a mostly vegetated ridge-like feature whose climbing interest is related to the presence of a few rock outcrops where routes have been developed since the 1990s .
These outcrops are on the upper part of the ridge, separated by a long diagonal rake which stretches from bottom left to top right. Above the rake at the top of the ridge is a slabby area, undercut in part by an overhang; below and left of these slabs is a rocky ridge. Below and to the right of the rake there is a small crag capped by an overhang located just above a steep ravine and to the left of a mine adit.
The routes on the upper slabs and the ridge below it are approached by descending the rocky heathery rake from the right. The two routes on the ridge are described first and then the routes on the slab above.

1. OUT OF THE BLUE    50m    HVS    (5a)
Takes a direct line up the left side of the arête. Can be just about done in one long pitch though a belay is possible at the blocky ground at about two-thirds height.
Starts at the lowest part of the ridge at a short wall (damp underfoot). Move up onto a ledge and out left of arête to gain a clean groove just left of a small bulge with a spike. Up this, exiting steeply onto cracked slab below a projecting block. Climb up onto the block and up to a wall on the left which is taken near its right side to blocky ground; up a short wall and continue along the arête on the left before finishing up directly.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 3/8/2003

2. LAKE VIEW     *    55m    HS    (4b, 4b)
1 45m     Start at the bottom right side of the ridge and follow a more or less direct line to a final steep slab. Climb this directly, rather bold and delicate, or more easily to the right. Cross a grassy break to belay beneath the left-hand side of the Upper Slabs.
2 10m Finish delicately up the left-hand edge of the slab
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/8/1995

Below and slightly to the right of the ridge-line of the previous two routes there is an overhanging area of rock where a single route has been recorded. It is reached by abseiling down an overhanging wall and the slab below it to a grassy ledge.

3. DO OR DIE    18m    HVS    (5a)
Climb the middle of the slab via a quartzy vein to a bulge and traverse left to a block; up steeply past this to the base of a steep pedestal. Continue up right below wall to blocks in overhanging corner. Get standing on these with help from holds on the ramp above. Make bold committing moves up and out right to gain the ramp and, with relief, move left up the ramp to heathery ground.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 3/8/2003

The following climbs are on the Upper Slabs and are described from right to left, starting from the easiest point of access which is to the right of the overhanging wall in a niche to the left of a large perched block.

4. DAWN SWEPT    20m    HS    (4b)
Start in a corner to the left of the perched block. Up past block and climb the slab diagonally right to rock nose. Climb this past delicate section to gain a short crack and finish above.
J. Lyons, 21/8/1994

5. BRIEF ENCOUNTER    20m    VS    (4b)
Start as for Dawn Swept and climb the slab to the first corner on the right. Up this until it is possible to break out right onto the arête to finish.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 13/9/1995

6. SEARCHER         20m        VS    (4c)
Again start to the left of the large block and climb the slab to finish up the corner to the left of that of Brief Encounter.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 13/9/1995

7FALL OUT*         22m        HVS    (5a)
Start as for the previous routes and follow the slab to the base of a slanting cleft; climb this boldly to finish.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 19/7/1996

8. FRINGE BENEFIT    30m    VD
From the large block follow the crack diagonally left before making a delicate step around a bulging nose; take the leftward wide crack to finish.
Variation - Direct Finish S    (4a) - At the nose ascend via a good crack in the bulging slab.
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 31/7/1993

9. TIPPING POINT*    22m    E1    (5a/b)
Start 4m left of the large block below a short wall; up a slight groove in the wall and follow a slab directly to a steep shallow groove to the left of the cleft of Fall Out. Climb the groove which is steep to start and hard to protect (crux).
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 24/7/1998

10. SOLITARY PURSUITS*    22m    VS    (4c)
Start a few metres left of Tipping Point at a short chimney in the steep wall.
Climb the chimney and the crack above it leading directly to a broad, bulging arête. Climb this delicately to the right of an obvious crack.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 30/6/1996

11. EAVESDROP    *    30m    E1    (5b)
Climb the chimney as for Solitary Pursuits and gain the crack before moving out left onto the slab above the overhanging wall. Follow the edge diagonally left in an exposed and delicate situation to its finishing point.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 5/7/1995

The following climbs are found on the small outcrop more or less directly below the Upper Slabs. It is capped by an overhang with a niche escape exit in the centre. The crag is approached from the right and the routes start on a rather precarious sloping platform above a deep ravine.

12. OUT THERE    18m    HVS    (5a)
Start near the left end of the platform. Climb up left near the arête and traverse around the corner and move up the wall until possible to escape right beneath a small overhang.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 5/7/1995

13. FIRED UP    18m    VS    (4c)
Start up the left of a large narrow block and move right to gain the top of the block. From an awkward, out-of-balance stance move up the crack on the left to the overhang; step across right and then up the central niche to finish.
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon. 27/8/1995

14. SHINE ON    18m    VS    (4c)
Start at the large block and climb up to the right of it to a broad sloping ledge. Continue directly to the niche and finish.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 30/6/1996

15. CREEPY CRAWLY    18m    HVS    (5a)
Takes a diagonal line beneath the overhang from the bottom right to the niche exit.
Move up onto a ledge and traverse left to an overlap before edging further left around block; make delicate moves upwards to gain a higher line and the opening above.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 12/7/1996

TATTOO'D LADY    20m    HS    (4b)
Start as per Creepy Crawly, above the mineshaft entrance. Gain a ledge and move up over slabs to the the right side of a protruding block. Take a direct line up the groove above (crux) to gain a crack and finish up the slab above.
G. Galligan, P. O Leary. 3/7/2011

Some early routes were recorded on the lower vegetated reaches of G Buttress. They start about 100m below the more recent routes near the base of the ridge system. They are lichenous and vegetated and not recommended; they represent the first tentative probings of the earliest climbers at Luggala.

16. G BUTTRESS ORDINARY     100m     S
Start 13m to the right of the gully on the left side of the Buttress.
Take a line directly to the square-cut overhang at 30m. A lichen-filled groove provides the crux. Move left at the overhang and from there scramble to the top.
W. R. Perrott, 27/3/1949

17. G BUTTRESS RIDGE     100m     S
Follow slabs in the bed of a gully to the left of the ridge forming the right-hand edge of the buttress. After about 45m take to the ridge and follow this to the top.
W. J. Carroll, P. Crean, W. R. Perrott, 27/3/1949

18. WHIRLIGIG     56m     S    (3c)
This is essentially the ridge sector of the previous climb which has been straightened and partly gardened to give some reasonable climbing. Start to the right of the toe of the detached buttress below the ridge.
1. 10m Climb up the slab right of the toe of the buttress and continue up a slabby scoop bearing left to the top of the buttress. Walk up easy slopes to the foot of an easy-angled slab.
2. 20m Climb the slab to the wall. Climb onto a steep slab just right of the wall and continue up, first right and then traversing left and up to the foot of the next wall.
3. 11m Climb up to the left of the crest and regain the crest at a narrow gap (some loose rock). Follow the crest to another gap.
4. 15m Climb the rib, first on the right and then on the left (loose rock) to its junction with the main buttress.
J. Lynam, P. Conroy, 4/9/1983

About halfway between G and H Buttress there is a narrow rock ridge where two routes are found.

BORDERLINE    50m    VS    (4b)
Take the ridge-line more or less directly from the bottom left-hand corner to the final arete. Climb the arete or alternatively move left and climb a crack in the short wall to finish.
J. Lyons, 24/6/1995

PLAYTIME    12m    HVS    (5b)
A short route on the top left-hand side of the rock ridge starting at the base of a ramp. Gain the top of the ramp by its left edge or the short wall on the left. From the sloping slab climb the undercut block direct (crux).
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 26/6/1995

H BUTTRESS

The climbs on H Buttress are reached by descent gullies to its left and right. The gully on the left (when facing the cliffs) is West Face Gully and gives access on one side to the West Face of H Buttress and on the other to a small clean-cut buttress facing the top part of the West Face. The right-hand gully, South Face Gully, leads down to the South Face and to another small buttress to the right of the South Face and near the top of the gully. The following routes are on the small buttress near the head of West Face Gully.

BLUEPRINT FOR LIVING     15m     HVS    (5b)
Start at the centre of the buttress, 2m left of a shallow crack running straight up to a small projecting block at about 10m which is directly below a partly hidden overhang.
Move up and slightly right to gain a left-trending diagonal break 1 - 2m below the projecting block. Go straight up past the block and follow a short groove back left beneath the overhang to finish.
J. Lyons, 5/9/1991

PALADIN *    15m     VS    (4c)
Start 2m right of Blueprint for Living at a deep crack going up to a diagonal break. Climb the crack to a stance at the top of a ramp and then the short twin parallel cracks above (crux). Finish up to the left or right of the overhang.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 21/9/1986

WANDERER     13m     HVS    (5a)
Starts at the right side of the buttress, 2m right of a ramp. Climb the wall to large handholds at 6m. Swing around the arête to the slab on the right. Climb to the top up the short crack and slab, staying close to the arête.
J. Ó Reilly, J. Lyons, 16/8/1991

H BUTTRESS - WEST FACE

The West Face is not one continuous face but rather two buttresses offset by a short, cracked, bulging wall. The Upper West Face is the larger of the two with a dozen lines, some of which have two pitches. The Lower West Face has fewer routes and these are mostly rather short. Despite the somewhat broken and vegetated appearance of the West Face the climbs are generally clean with reliable rock. With some exceptions protection is reasonable and the Face does not have the serious air of some of the other cliffs at Luggala. The following climbs are found on the Upper West Face starting on the left about 30 - 40m down the gully at a small compact buttress.

24 IN THE BEGINNING        9m    VD
Takes the blocky cracked corner on the left flank of the small buttress.
S. O Hanlon, J. Lyons. 26/7/1996

25 ARTEMIS    10m    VS    (4c)
Start on the left side of the small buttress, taking a toe of rock to a short vertical wall - Friend high on left. Surmount the wall and finish more easily.
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon. 26/7/1996

26 BOULDER WALL     30m     HS    (4b)
1. 18m Start at the blocky corner and step right onto the small buttress. Continue right. and up over blocks to a large grass ledge and a block belay.
2. 12m Move slightly right along the ledge and either climb the steep wall just behind the boulder or climb the boulder and from its top step onto the wall. From the left end of a narrow ledge make a strenuous pull up a short steep wall. A few steps to the left near the top are awkward. Scramble to the top and belay.
W.R. Perrott, P. Kenny, 25/6/1950

27 EUREKA     12m     VS    (4c)
Start a few metres right of Artemis at a leftward-trending diagonal crack. Climb it to ledges and up these to a small overhang taken near its right side via a large block.
J. Ó Reilly, J. Lyons, 1/8/1990.

28 SPRITE     12m     S    (4a)
Start as for Eureka below a vertical crack-line. Follow the crack-line directly to the top. Move well back to belay at a large block.
J. Lyons, 15/11/1986

29 SCEPTRE     13m     HVS    (5a)
Start 2m down and right of Sprite, directly below a ledge with holly at 8m. Up directly to the ledge and climb the bulging nose of rock (crux) to your left.
J. Ó Reilly, J. Lyons, 1/8/1990.

30 LITTLE DORRIT     13m     VS    (4c)
Start 2-3m right of Sceptre at the right end of a narrow heather ledge on the left of a slabby wall. Take the left edge of the slabby wall to gain the grass ledge on the left. Move up to the ledge of Sceptre and then right into a corner which is climbed directly (crux) to the top.
J. Lyons, J. Ó Reilly, 1/8/1990.

32 NIGHT RAVEN **     15m     E2    (5c)
Start 2m left of the Fear of Flying corner beneath a steep slab capped by an overlap. Climb up directly to reach a footledge below the overlap. Then follow the curving crack-line from the overlap to a broad clean ledge and belay. Finish by climbing the corner of Little Dorrit on the left or more easily by moving out right and then traversing off left.
J. Lyons, J. Ó Reilly, 23/8/1990. VARIATION ** Direct Finish (E3 6a) Climbs the overhanging crack directly above the belay.
H. Hebblethwaite, 1990's

33 FEAR OF FLYING *    32m     HVS    (5a,4a)
This climb takes the overhanging corner to the right of Night Raven; some good climbing on the first pitch but keep an eye out for brittle holds.
1. 20m Climb the corner and pull directly over the overlap to reach better holds. Move up to a grassy bay and continue up slightly right to belay behind an enormous block. It is possible to escape left to the descent gully at this point.
2. 12m Climb a short cracked corner above the belay, pull up steeply and follow a slightly grassy groove left, exiting by an obvious opening.
P. Coakley, P. Sloane, 14/8/1977

34 TWIN TRACK     23m     VS    (4c)
Start 2m right of the Fear of Flying corner at parallel cracks in the slightly overhanging wall.
Climb up to gain the top of the pedestal on the right. Move back left to a narrow ledge and, using good but well spaced holds, move up slightly right to gain the ledge above via a well defined parallel-sided slot.
Climb the wall behind using a slightly protruding block to gain the grassy slopes above. Move up to belay beneath the overhangs. Traverse off left to escape.
J. Lyons, 3/8/1991

35 PEDESTAL *     25m     E1    (5b)
Start just below and around the corner from Twin Track beneath the pillar with the obvious groove. The crux is sparsely protected.
Climb the face of the pillar, gaining the groove with difficulty (crux) and then the ledge above. Climb the wall directly behind, slanting right to a cracked groove. Up to ledges and climb the impending headwall behind. Belay as for Twin Track. Traverse off left.
J. Lyons, 3/8/1991

36 PHAETON     38m     HVS    (5a,4b)
Start at the corner groove at the right side of the Pedestal pillar.
1. 11m Climb the groove with increasing difficulty and exit right below the top to a sloping ledge. Move up to a belay on the grass ledge.
2. 27m Move up directly to a sloping ledge below the wall and then left to a short crack; up this and traverse right for 3m along a narrow ledge. Climb the short bulging wall and move up slightly left and then directly up to an overhanging chimney just left of a prow. Finish up the chimney on juggy holds.
K. Higgs, T. Hand, 9/8/1979

37 POLECAT     35m     HVS    (5a,5a)
Takes a direct but fairly contrived line between Phaeton and Bearcats. Start 2m to the right of Phaeton below a steep cracked groove.
1. 11m Climb the cracks to the ledges above.
2. 24m Move up to the horizontal crack in the vertical wall. Use the left-trending diagonal crack in a huge block to directly gain the top of the block; up and slightly right, using flake holds to gain the overhang and back left to gain a horizontal quartz ledge above. Continue up and right to finish at blocks and a thread belay as for Bearcats
J. Lyons, R. Kingston, D. Wall, 10/8/1989

38 BEARCATS*     35m     VS    (4b,4c)
A good route with a rather gymnastic crux.
Start a few metres right of Polecat at the base of a clean groove below the ash tree.
1. 11m Climb the cracked groove to the nose and tree.
2. 24m move up and slightly left to a ledge below a steep crack in an open corner. Climb directly up the corner (crux) to a grassy ledge. Continue up slightly left and over bulges and ledges to the top. Thread belay.
J. Mulhall, S. R. Young, 26/3/1972

39 SUNCHASER     39m     S    (4a,4a)
This rather vegetated and undistinguished climb begins in a large corner about 3m to the right of Bearcats.
1. 18m Climb the steep corner to an overhang. Move right below this and then up and back left above the lip of the overhang. Climb up to a ledge to reach a block belay.
2. 21m Move up over grass on the right to a crest (beware of loose blocks). Follow a narrow ramp up left before traversing slightly right; then up a short wall and blocks to the top.
S. R. Young, J. Leonard, 28/11/1971
VARIATION Direct Finish 18m VS    (4c). From the belay block, at the top of Pitch 1, climb up onto a ledge below an obvious steep groove in the face. This groove may also be gained from another block further up to the right. Climb the groove, using good incut holds, to a ledge. Continue over a blocky bulge to the top.
J. Mulhall, S.R. Young, 26/3/1972

The following climbs are found down around the corner from Sunchaser along a subsidiary buttress which forms the lower right-hand side of the West Face. This is the Lower West Face.

40 SQUARE CHIMNEY     50m     HS    (4b)
An old route with a vague description. It appears to take the wide crack just right of the Sunchaser corner to a block belay above on the ridge before finishing up a series of walls on the left.
W.R. Perrott, P. Kenny, 25/6/1950

HOTSPOT     18m     VS    (4c)
Start below and to the right of the Sunchaser corner in a cracked niche at the head of a sloping slab. Move out right and gain ledges (awkward). Go straight up a tier of steep rock (crux) to a large ledge. Continue up right, entering a short ramp. From the top of this finish straight up the highest point of the wall on good holds.
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon, 31/7/1993.

NATURE WORSHIPPER     25m     VS    (4b)
Start 3m to the right of Hotspot beneath a small overhang capped by a ledge. Climb up beneath the overhang which is taken on the left to reach the ledge. Move 1m to the right and climb directly to the top.
J. Lyons, C. Ó Cofaigh, 8/11/1986

SPIRIT OF SOLITUDE     25m     VS    (4c)
Start 3m right of Nature Worshipper at a vegetated ledge beneath a short wall.
Move right to a diagonal crack and use this to gain the ledge above. Follow up short grooves and corners exiting via a niche in an overhang at the top, or more easily to the left of this.
J. Lyons, 15/11/1986

H BUTTRESS ORDINARY     62m     HS    (4a, 4b)
Start as for Spirit of Solitude at the beginning of a gangway.
1. 20m Follow the gangway to the crest of the buttress and climb up left to a recess.
2. 20m Climb the slab above the recess via a crack and continue up the crest over large blocks to a stance below a wall.
3. 22m Scramble up right and climb a short wall which leads to a bilberry (fraughan) rake. The wall above may be climbed at any point.
P. Green, W.J. Carroll, 27/5/1949

DETOUR *     30m     VS    (4c)
Start 4 - 5m down from Spirit of Solitude at the left-facing corner.
Take the corner and move back over the sloping ledge to climb the groove above. Move up to the right-hand side of a ramp just left of a narrow pillar of rock. Follow the ramp diagonally left to a position just below a short, cracked headwall. Finish up this.
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon, 31/7/1993.

TROUBADOUR     30m     S    (4a)
Start just down from Detour beneath a cracked rock bulge.
Make a bouldering start past the bulge and climb the short steep wall behind on good holds to a large ledge. Move up past blocks just right of steep rock. Move left along a ramp below the overhangs until escape is possible.
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon, 31/7/1993.

TOUCHSTONE *     23m     E1    (5b)
The crux sequence gives an interesting challenge.
Start beneath the rock bulge of Troubadour. Move out right past a ledge and up beneath a crack-line which trends up slightly left from above an overlap. Follow the crack directly past a difficult section (moving too far to the left disqualifies!) to good holds and the cleaned ledge. Continue up steep rock to a good belay at blocks.
J. Lyons, 1/8/1993.

ICARUS POINT     26m     VS    (4c)
Start 6 - 7m down from Troubadour directly beneath an obvious detached pillar at about half-height on the face. Climb a broken cracked groove to a ledge just beneath the pillar. Move up to the left of the pillar and then move out left to the right-hand end of a steeply tilted ramp; gain this and traverse left. Gain a narrow ledge above and traverse back right before finishing up on large holds.
J. Lyons, 18/9/1987

THE WOMBLES     42m     VS    (4c,3c)
Start near the bottom of the Lower West Face where an obvious broad ramp leads up left from a large ledge at a height of 3-4m.
1. 30m Gain the start of the ramp from the left by getting onto a spike and swinging out onto a sloping ledge before stepping up onto the left side of the larger ledge above. Climb the ramp to a bulge at 20m; surmount this with the aid of a dubious block (crux). Belay at the first available position.
2. 12m Continue along the ramp, passing under a small overhang before exiting a little to its left.
D. Walsh, J. Mulhall, 1974

SARABAND *    30m     E1    (5b)
This delicate and exposed climb takes the left edge of the steep narrow slab at the very lowest point of H Buttress. The bold crux can be protected to some extent by placements in the short crack-line of Normative Behaviour to the right. Start by climbing a groove on the left for about 5m. Gain the left side of the slab above and follow the left edge as closely as possible, at first with difficulty (crux) and then more easily to the top.
J. Lyons, 25/10/1987

NORMATIVE BEHAVIOR *     28m     HVS    (5b)
Takes a direct line up the centre of the slab starting a few metres right of Saraband. Up steeply to the overlap and pass this with difficulty (Friends useful). Continue up the centre of the slab with interest to blocks at the top right.
D. Ó Sullivan, J. Lyons, H. Hebblethwaite, 8/11/1986

PRESCRIPTIVE EXISTENCE    25m    HVS    (5b)
Start in a corner just right of Normative Behaviour. Climb the corner and step out left above the overlap, up past a flake and the bulge above it, following the rock rib above slightly left to finish.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 24/7/1998

H BUTTRESS - SOUTH FACE

This generally steep wall is recognisable by its horizontal to diagonal crack lines and the overhangs on its right-hand side. The climbing tends to be steep but not sustained, offering rest-points in between the energetic bursts. Protection is mostly reasonable though sometimes well spaced requiring a confident approach. Access to most of the routes on the South Face is either upslope via the toilsome scree of South Gully or downslope via the short gully on the right-hand side of the Face.
The following group of six short climbs is found on the upper left-hand side of the South Face where a buttress with small overhangs stands above the grassy rake of H Buttress Girdle. They are reached from the top of the crag by a short easy descent near the intersection of the West and South Faces and by then switching back to the left for a few metres to reach the shorter left side of the buttress.

ALONZO     8m     HS    (4b)
Start about 5 m down the ramp below a seam of white quartz and to the left of a faint vertical joint-line. Climb directly to the top, finishing a few metres left of the small overhang.
J. Lyons, 11/8/1991

TRINCULO     8m     HS    (4b)
Starts 1 - 2 m right of Alonzo, just left of the overhang above. Climb up to a square-cut platform and then move right to finish up the left side of the overhang.
J. Lyons, 11/8/1991

CALIBAN     9m     HVS    (5a)
Starts directly below the overhang above.
Move out onto the wall on the right and gain height to reach a good hold above a small square-cut overhang. Move up and out left of the overhang at the top of the wall, finishing as for Trinculo
D. Ó Sullivan, J. Lyons, 16/5/1992

MIRANDA     9m     VS    (4c)
Starts 2-3m right of Caliban at a head-height overhang ending in a flake on the right. Use the flake to gain the wall above. Climb straight up and finish to the right of the overhang above.
D. Ó Sullivan, J. Lyons, 16/5/1992

PROSPERO     10m     VS    (4c)
Starts 4-5m right of Miranda below a niche. Gain the niche and continue up past the short right-hand corners.
J. Lyons, J. Ó Reilly, 16/8/1991

ARIEL     17m    S    (3c)
Starts 5m down from Prospero at the base of the ramp on a narrow grassy platform. Climb the wall to the left of the groove, moving diagonally left and finishing to the left of a short headwall as for Unsafe For Horse Caravans..
J. Lyons, 11/8/1991

The following climbs are on the main South Face at or near its base.

OUTLAW *    50m     VS    (4a,4c)
Start near the bottom left-hand side of the Face on a heather ledge just left of the prominent pillar of Sirius. Scramble up a short heather-filled opening between two areas of rock to reach the ledge.
1. 15m Climb a rib of rock just left of the shallow groove, drifting left to a grassy ledge and belay below a short left-trending groove.
2. 35m From the base of the groove move a few metres right and climb the backwall directly (crux) to a grassy break; straight up on good holds to a long shallow groove which is followed with interest to the top.
J. Lyons, S. McMullan, 12/8/1990

SIRIUS *    50m     HVS    (5a,4c)
Start just right of Outlaw at the base of a prominent pillar split by a shallow dark-coloured quartz crack-line.
1. 28m Climb up the slabby face of the pillar to a heather ledge (crux); this is avoidable by easier bridging up the left side of the pillar. Continue up slightly right to gain a left-trending diagonal crack; climb up to a grassy break and belay beneath the steep wall.
2. 22m Climb the wall via a flake to gain a shallow V-shaped opening which gives access to a grassy ledge. Move up and right for a few metres to a steep wall just right of a heathery gully. Climb the wall near its left edge, using holds on the arête near the top. Scramble up broken ground.
J. Lyons, 25/9/1987

BREAK FREE     55m     VS    (4c,4b)
A meandering route which starts near the lowest point of the buttress below and to the left of the grotto-like formation and just beneath slabby rock with quartz veins.
1. 30m Climb directly up to a ledge. Move up and slightly right to a detached block set in a deep groove; pass this on the left, trending leftwards to pass another block. Continue up to a heathery ledge beneath a wall to belay as for Sirius.
2. 25m Move out left and follow a series of ledges and corners up to a grassy ledge beneath a prominent nose near the top of the face. Climb the nose directly to the top.
J. Lyons, D. Ó Reilly, 8/11/1986

BLUEBERRY BLOOD     56m     HVS    (5a,4c)
A reasonable line up the centre of the buttress, starting at its lowest point beneath the rock-arch or grotto.
1. 36m Climb up to and then over the roof of the grotto with the help of an obvious notch. Move slightly left across a quartz ledge and then climb up just right of a groove and large block to another ledge on the right beneath a pillar; climb this on its left side to vegetated ground and move over right to belay below large flakes as for Troy.
2. 20m Move back left and follow a line of weakness diagonally left to a short square-cut opening which leads to a ledge below the final wall. Climb this, starting a few metres right of the arête finish of Sirius, past short cracks and tiny ledges, moving slightly right before finishing below blocks in the corner above.
J. Lyons, J. Stark, 4/9/1990

H BUTTRESS GIRDLE     60m     M
This excursion, more on vegetation than on rock, follows a grassy ramp from right to left across the South Face and begins below the ivy-covered overhang. The ramp also provides easy access to the climbs Troy and Pooka on the upper, right-hand side of the face.
P. Kenny, W.R. Perrott, 25/6/1950

TROY *    25m     HVS    (5a)
This route on the upper part of the South Face is easily reached via H Buttress Girdle. Start 3m left of the chimney groove of Pooka below large flakes. Climb directly up the wall to a narrow foot-ledge at 10m. Move up slightly right and make a hard move to gain left-trending diagonal cracks. Follow the cracks directly to the top.
K. Higgs, T. Hand, 25/8/1979

POOKA *    25m     VS    (4c)
Start just right of Troy below a small chimney at the right-hand end of grassy ledges to the left of the ivy-clad overhang. The ivy is visible in the topo but has been removed in an abortive attempt to put up a new route.
Climb up into the chimney, exit steeply and continue up the short groove above. Follow a short series of ledges diagonally right; gaining one of these ledges is the crux. Gain the top of the ramp coming in from the right and climb the little groove on the left; up slightly left and finish straight up to the highest point of the final wall.
T. Hand, K. Higgs, 26/8/1979

THUNDERBOLT *     35m     E1    (5c)
Start near the right side of the buttress just right of the ivy-filled corner at a pointed block just below the left side of a slanting pillar.
Step off the spike onto the front face of the pillar and make thin moves to gain the left side of the short slab above. Up delicately to just below the overhang and across right to the other side of the slab (Friend runners); up more easily and onto the wall above, using a left-trending crack to gain height. At a horizontal break just right of the Bran niche move up and right to reach the broad easy-angled slab just below the roofs. Belay well back in a corner.
J. Lyons, J. Ó Reilly, 7/10/1990

LIGHTFOOT *     28m     E1    (5b/c)
Starts 2m right of Thunderbolt below a hanging groove.
From the top of a detached block gain the groove with difficulty (crux). Move up the groove to a ledge and across right for 1m; up to a small ledge and follow the vertical and parallel groove-cracklines to blocky ledges, finishing at a pointed block. Belay well back in the corner.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 21/5/1991

BRAN **    42m     VS    (4a,4c)
A good route with a steep but well-protected crux. Start near the right side of the buttress where a large spiky block adjoins the face.
1. 20m Climb the corner groove on the left side of the spike for 4m. Traverse left for 5m, climb up a blocky groove and then up diagonally left to a grass ledge and belay.
2. 22m Climb up a short wall to a niche. Exit steeply from the niche (crux) and up the wall until an edge on the right is reached. Move left a few metres before finishing straight up to the top.
J. McKenzie, J. McKeogh, October 1972

UNSAFE FOR HORSE CARAVANS 60m     HS    (4a,3c)
This pleasant traverse of the South Face begins in a cave on the far right of the buttress, to the right of and up from the start of Bran.
1. 35m Climb up onto the spike on the left (the top of the first corner of Bran). Follow Bran as far as the grass ledge and move up until just below the niche. Make a thin traverse left for 4m. Climb a short groove on the left and continue along a narrow ledge for 2m before moving up and left to a large flake; up this to grass on the left and the rock-strewn gully.
2. 25m Move across the gully and up a wide ramp for a few metres. Where the ramp divides take a lower traverse line. Move beneath an overlap and then up slabby rock until it is possible to gain a delightful narrow ramp by moving left. The ramp slopes up left to the finish.
T. Hand, K. Higgs, 12/8/1979

DUO     35m     HS    (4b)
The two short and separate sections can be conveniently combined into a single route. Start just right of a cave at the lowest point of a small but steep buttress.
Climb the centre of the buttress to a grassy terrace and cross over this to climb a shallow cracked groove left of a slab to a break; up steeply to the right of the arête to finish. Thread belay well back to the right.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 29/5/1991

JAVELIN ***    53m     E1    (5b)
An excellent high-level traverse of the South Face with continuous interest and some testing sequences. The climb may be done in one long pitch if a belay is taken in the finishing gully just after leaving the face; alternatively belay just under the niche of Bran; this latter option reduces the problem of rope drag. Start to the right of and below the small Duo buttress right of the cave.
Up diagonally left to a ledge which dips leftwards; cross this and over the base of a narrow gully onto footholds beneath a large block. Hand traverse up slightly and left across this block with difficulty. Continue left, passing under a small square-cut roof and the base of the Bran niche. A few metres left of the niche leave the lower crack-line and make hard moves to gain a somewhat higher line which leads more easily to where this crack again splits. Follow the lower line up left to near its end before traversing left across a wall to a short horizontal crack and the gully beyond. Belay here or well up to the left above the buttress.
J. Lyons, J. Ó Reilly, 8/9/1991

COOKIE DUSTER     18m     HVS    (5b)
Takes the overhanging corner on the right side of the roofs on the upper right-hand side of the South Face; short and rather unwholesome looking but it gives a good problem.
Climb the corner to a ledge above it on the left; up onto the slabs and follow these easily to the large block and thread belay
J. Lyons, J. Ó Reilly, 16/8/1991

HOUR-GLASS     21m     VD
Start on the upper right-hand side of the South Face a few metres to the right of the dark corner of Cookie Duster. Climb the shallow groove and near its top traverse delicately left to gain the slabs above the roofs. Go straight up on the right and surmount the overlap in the process. Thread belay at the large block above.
J. Lyons, 22/9/1991

The following climbs are found on a small buttress to the right of the South Face near the head of South Gully.

BLOCKHEAD     10m     VD
This short route starts near the left side of the buttress at the base of vegetated slabs below an undercut wall. Climb the short wall below the lower overhang going right to a ledge beneath a higher overhang. Move out right and finish up left of the blocks.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 21/5/1991
VARIATION Direct Start HS    (4b). Start 2-3m further to the right and go directly up the wall to the ledge beneath the higher overhang.
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 21/5/1991

DECEIVING ELF     13m     HVS    (5a)
Start 5-6m right of Blockhead below an undercut, left-facing corner. Gain the corner with difficulty and continue up steeply to the roof. Move out right and finish up the slabs above.
J. Lyons, J. Ó Reilly, 7/10/1990

WHIRL-BLAST     13m     VS    (4c)
Start 3m to the right of Deceiving Elf at a crack leading up to an opening in the roof. Climb the steep crack to a thread runner and surmount the roof. Move somewhat left to climb the overlap and slabs to finish.
J. Lyons, J. Ó Reilly, 7/10/1990.