Gully on South West Facing Side

From Irish Climbing Wiki

Crotty’s Rock

Crottys Gully SE Facing Climbs.jpg

Crotty’s Gully - South-West Facing Climbs (listed from top to bottom of the gully).

Munching Mike, D, 8m
23/6/01, D. McNamara, P. Britton
Climb the deep inside corner crack.

Midsummer Madness, HS, 12m
23/6/01, D. McNamara, P. Britton
Between the Munching Mike and Hairy Hatman cracks, climb the broken face. Some committing moves towards the top can be avoided to reduce the grade to VD.

Hairy Hat-man, VD 8m
23/6/01, D. McNamara, P. Britton
Next inside corner crack to the left.

Teddy Boy’s Belly, S, 15m
23/6/01, P. Britton, D. McNamara
A rounded belly of rock at mid height and a square cut bolder at the top mark this climb. Some delicate moves at the start enable a leftward step onto the belly. Some further moves up the chest lead to easier ground above. Protection a bit sparse.

(Teddy Boy’s Armpit), HS 15m
7/6/03, N. Eager, R. Eager, N. Wall
A variation that starts more to the right and crosses over TBB at the neck.

Seacht Suas, S, 17m
27/10/01, P. Britton, H. McNamara
Look for the slightly upward facing ‘7’ shaped crack. Use this to gain easier ground above. Protection moderate.

Lycopodium, S, 25m
7/6/03, G. Fogg, P. Britton
Start 4m right of Helvic Bound. A short slab leads to a vertical overlap, which is followed until it tails off above to the right. Step right into a groove and move up leftwards to the steeper wall above.

Helvic Bound, VS 4c, 31m
7/6/03, P. Britton, G. Fogg
Start 3m right of Blue Vista. Climb the slab, staying left of a vertical overlap to reach the horizontal break and first runner at 7m. Now move slightly right, then straight up following the faint arête line to the top.

Blue Vista, S, 34m
10/6/01, P. Britton, D. McNamara
A super route with reasonable protection. The climb starts at a vertical crack left of which the rock is severely undercut. After an awkward start, follow the crack to a sloping terrace on the left at about 20m. Now step well out right onto the wall above and up, where a keen eye will acquire protection. Move up past a detached flake which is gained from it’s right hand side. Beyond a grassed area above lies a final steep corner. A difficult and stretched start to this enables a leftward exit.

Digitalis, HS, 20m
23/6/01, P. Britton, D. McNamara
Start as per Blue Vista. At 2.5m step left via a slight ramp and delicately reach a crack system. Climb the cracks. Avoid drifting rightwards into Blue Vista by making an awkward step leftwards at a flake. Exit at a grass terrace.

Blue Skies After Rain, E1 5c, 24m
7/6/03, G. Fogg, P. Britton
Start at the steeply undercut section just left of Blue Vista. A steep pull-up provides a slightly desperate start followed immediately by some delicate moves prior to regaining composure. Traverse leftwards and upwards to reach a vertical crack. Climb this to the overlap which is passed on the RHS. Finish up a pinnacle. Protection improves with height.