Gully on North East Facing Side

From Irish Climbing Wiki

Crotty’s Rock

Crottys Gully NE facing climbs.jpg

Crotty’s Gully - North-East Facing Climbs (listed from top to bottom of gully).

Robin, S, 8m
10/6/01 D. McNamara, P. Britton.
Climb the short inside corner crack and exit slightly to the left.

Ard na Greine, HS, 10m
10/6/01 D. McNamara, P. Britton.
Just right of Robin, climb the outside corner using the crack near its edge.

Amnesia, VS, 12 m
4/9/00 J. Bergin, C. Murray, D. McNamara.
2m to the right of Ard na Greine, climb the obvious crack.

Resurgent Prey, VS, 18m
4/6/01 P. Britton, J. Bergin, D. McNamara.
An obvious crack that tends rightwards with height.

Pilfered Penguin, HVS 5a, 22m
4/9/00 S. Daly, C. Murray.
Left Hand Finish 4/6/01 J. Bergin, P. Britton.
Some delicate moves near the start enable entry into a crack which leads to a platform on the right at 12m. Finish from the platform or else keep left prior to the platform for a more sustained finish (5a/b?).

Upper Right Terrace These routes are only accessible by abseil or as continuations of routes from the lower tier. Beware of some doubtful detached flakes in this area.

Crottys Gully NE facing 2 climbs.jpg

Saw-tooth, VS 4c, 21m
27/3/03, P. Britton, C. Ennis.
Directly above Pound Out, the crack is climbed with assistance from ledges (teeth) to the left. A detached flake!! is gained as you enter into a notch. Now bridge up the side of a pinnacle or tooth to the left, to its point. Go directly up via the cracks above and then slightly to the right. Step across to the back wall and finish up a shallow corner straight ahead.

Matrix, VS 4c, 21m
27/3/03, P. Britton, C. Ennis.
Same as for Saw-tooth until after the detached flake. Gain a small bit of height on the right hand side of the notch then step out onto the steeper face to the right. Climb this past a wide crack, which requires traditional climbing techniques. Next step across to the back wall and finish up a slabby line that veers slightly right with height.

Lower Tier A rope can be fixed in advance to assist exiting from the terrace at the top of these climbs. Alternatively, pitches can be combined with routes up the upper tier, but on less sound rock in places.

Crottys Gully NE facing 3 climbs.jpg

Dropped Penny, VS 4b, 22m.
27/3/02, P. Britton, M. Quinn, E. Taylor.
Below Pilfered Penguin, a series of three right facing corners provide obvious lines up to the mid way terrace. Dropped Penny is the leftmost, or first, of these corners. Entering the corner proper is the crux move. Belay at flake on terrace.

Pound Out, HVS 5a, 21m
27/3/03, P. Britton, C. Ennis.
Easy at the grade, and starting from the same point as Dropped Penny. This climb takes the rightmost, or third corner, in the series. A large clean looking crack leads to an overhanging finish. You’ll need large protection. At the top, there is a hidden nut belay in the crack behind.