Ivy Chimney From the Ardbrugh Road entrance into the quarry, the path across to the east side of the East Valley leads straight to the Ivy Chimney area - a long wall of orange rock with a thick veil of ivy at its left-hand end.
Eliminate Wall - From Ivy Chimney follow the path right, along the base of the cliff towards the back of the quarry. Scramble up onto a large gently sloping slab, which rises up to meet the boundary wall. On the left of this slab the Eliminate Wall sweeps up and steepens towards the top.
The Ghost Slab - An inverted triangle of grey rock bordered on its left by a vertical wall and by a crack on its right. From the Ardburgh Road entrance into the quarry, follow the path along the west side of the East Valley. A blocky cliff rises up on the right. Beyond this cliff the path turns left and
Entering East Valley from the road a path leads left past the cottage gardens to a long south-facing wall. The first routes are located at the left hand end of the wall. To descend from these routes, walk across the top, to the left end of the wall and scramble down through the ivy jungle.
ORCRIST GOBLIN-CLEAVER 12m HS 4b
S.R. Young, J. Leonard. 22.7.1972.
Start at the left hand end of the clean wall. Climb the overhanging wall, or, more easily the ramp on the left, to reach a ledge below a slab. Move up this and the short overgrown corner above to the top.
IVY SOAP 12m HVS 5b
S. Windrim. 9.1976.
Start 2m right of Orcrist Goblin-Cleaver. Bridge up the overhanging corner to a spacious ledge. From this, teeter precariously left to join the top of Orcrist Goblin-Cleaver.
K-SQUARED * 12m VS 4c
S. Darby, J. Butler, M. O'Shea. 10.6.1972.
A short, but exciting route, taking the corner right of Ivy Soap. Start below the corner. Climb this to the large ledge on the left. Make a very committing step back into the corner (committing is the crux). Continue up to reach a ledge and the top.
SQUEEZY 12m E2 5b
S. Windrim. 4.1978.
Serious. Start below the hanging corner right of K-Squared. Climb up to a ledge to the right of the corner. Using a hold on the arête above gain a worrying position bridged across the corner with some difficulty. Lurch quickly up to finish.
KOZANGAS 12m VD
D. O'Murchu, M. Nowlan, P. Turpin. 1972.
Start below the hanging corner of Squeezy. Climb rightwards over ledges to the base of an obvious corner. Finish up this.
BLACKWIND 12m S 4a
B. Green. 11.1975.
Follow Eachtra to the wall just right of the Kozangas corner. Climb the flake crack on good holds to the top.
EACHTRA 12m VD
J. Butler, M. O'Shea. 16.9.1972.
Takes the obvious diagonal line below the Kozangas corner to finish just left of Ivy Chimney.
IVY CHIMNEY 14m S
F. Maguire. 1951.
The start can be embarrassing as it is somewhat stubborn. Enter the chimney either by delicate moves from the right (4c) or more thuggishly from the left starting at the crack (5a). If successful, finish pleasantly up the chimney to a spacious ledge and peg belay.
EX- IVY WALL 14m HVS 5b
J. Mulhall. 22.7.1972.
The steep wall 1m right of Ivy Chimney. After a deceptive start climb the wall on good but spaced holds, passing a vertical borehole to an easier finish.
DAMOCLES 14m S 4a
S.R. Young, M. O'Shea. 22.7.1972.
Steep, enjoyable climbing. Start at a groove 3m right of Ivy Chimney. Climb the steep groove and vertical borehole to a large ledge. Continue up the short slab and corner above to the top.
YEPP 20m S 3c
S.R. Young, J. Leonard. 22.7.1972.
Start as for Damocles. Follow the rightward trending line, until a pull over an overlap gains a slab. Continue traversing rightwards to finish as for Mechem.
TENASHITY * 14m E1 5c
S.R. Young, J. Butler. 25.7.1972. A. Latham, S. Windrim. 27.11.1976. (Free).
Technical climbing up the steep corner right of the Damocles groove. Climb the corner to a bulge (small wire runner). Difficult moves lead over this and up the wall above onto a slab. Finish directly up.
YOU AND ME 17m HVS 5a
D. Greenlan. 11.1977.
A contrived route. Start at blocks 1m right of Tenashity. Climb the short ramp to a ledge, traverse left to join Tenashity above the bulge. Continue up to the slab, step left and finish through the V-slot.
MECHEM 15m D
J. Butler, D O'Murchu. 29.6.1972.
Start as for You and Me. Climb the short ramp to a ledge. On up over broken ledges to finish just left of a short vertical crack.
GORSE 15m D
G. Jones. 16.5.1964.
A very prickly expedition up the dirty corner just right of Mechem. Follow Mechem until it is just possible to move right into the corner, and up this to the top.
HANGING AROUND 15m E2 6a
J. Grube, J. Price. 1983.
A gymnastic exercise breaching the right-hand end of the slanting roof right of Mechem. Start on blocks below a flake. Climb up to the roof and using the borehole grapple over this onto the holdless slab above. Having regained composure, continue up the excellent thin crack in the wall above.
THE UPWARD FALL VS 4c
Mark Gylby, Grzegorz Motyka and Robert Myc 04/11/2018
Start right of Hanging Around in groove, up corner vertical slab. Bridge Choss wall to block. Move delicately onto rising slab. Step rightward and gain broken arete edge. Move directly above to gain thin crack to top.
To the right of Hanging Around, a large ramp above a smooth, clean wall leads almost to the top of the cliff. A poor route on rotten rock Nicks (D) starts 4m up the ramp and climbs a narrow green ramp and short, flaky crack to the top. The following routes are located on the smooth wall.
HOLYMOAC 6m HS 4b
J. Butler. 22.7.1972.
Scamper up the obvious diagonal flake crack at the left hand end of the wall.
HOLYMOAC DIRECT 6m E2 5c
J. Grube. 12.1982.
Start just right of Holymoac below a vertical drill hole. Thin moves lead to a good finger hold at the base of the drill hole. Pull up and lunge left into the friendly jugs of Holymoac.
EREWHON ** 9m E2 5b
A. Latham. 21.11.1976. (Top roped prior to first ascent).
Excellent bold wall climbing requiring a positive approach. Start below and right of a line of three bore holes. Climb up on small ledges to the third borehole where a hard, committing move brings better holds to hand. Finish warily.
GR20 9m. HVS (5a). Top-roped prior to leading.
Kevin Byrne, Sean Barrett, Colin Keogh and Antoinette Gough. (9.6.2016).
An easier companion to Erewhon, Start on the wall just left of Street Fighter. Side pulls lead to an obvious pocket. Better holds and small wires to the ramp. Move out left on good crimps before making a delicate stretch to the finish right of Erewhon. Protection is poor but a long stretch to the final crack on Street Fighter can protect the final moves.
STREET FIGHTER ** 12m VS 4c
K. Higgs, S.R. Young. 29.5.1976.
Fine steep climbing with good protection. Start right of Erewhon below a cleaned groove. Climb the groove steeply to jugs and a large ledge. Move out left onto a narrow sloping ramp, and climb the thin crack in the wall above to the top.
THE SHIELD *** 15m E2 5c
S.R. Young 1973. (Aided). S. Windrim 22.4.1978. (Free).
A classic battle. Probably the most fallen off route in the quarry. Follow Street Fighter to the ledge. Continue up the steep, rightward trending crack passing a difficult and strenuous sequence of jams.
Variation: Left (Cop-Out) Finish E1 5b - Some holds have appeared out to the left of the crack over the last few years. These can be gained by a reach left just before the crux of The Shield. Get yourself balanced left of main crack and continue to the top.
WAITING FOR THE SUN 15m E4 6b
Jan Kuczera (PL), Ivan Staron (SK)(top roped prior to ascent, lead by both climbers) 17.10.2009
A bold line up the wall just right of The Shield. Climb the flake right of The Shield and arrange a sling at the top for protection. Move boldly up the vertical seam to reach the peg and climb on through the overhang to the top of the wall.
LUCKY MAN 20m E4 6b
Ivan Staron (top roped prior to ascent) 26.7.2011
A fine hard line up the wall between “Waiting for the Sun” and “Ozymandias”. Start in an obvious recess in the wall exiting this at the top to the left. Continue up to the middle of the wall, reach two small crimps and make a hard move which leads to the leftward trending crack (crux). Climb, with difficulty, up the crack to a good hold at the top. From the top of crack make a tricky traverse to the right through overhang and finish straight up to the top of the wall.
OZYMANDIAS ** 23m E4 6a/b
R. Dean. 1986.
A serious and spectacular route taking a ?butch? line up the right edge of the wall. Dubious rock adds to the excitement. Start 15m right of The Shield, at a niche below a short shallow groove. Climb the groove exiting right at the top to a good spike. Move down and right on good holds to the edge of the wall and step up onto a small pedestal (small wires above, but hard to place). Make hard moves up the thin crack and then out right to the dramatic razor edge. Layback this with your heart in your mouth until better holds and the top are reached.
FOREIGN ATTACK 24m E2 6a
Grzegorz Motyka, Kacper Lament, Marc Gylby, 12th April 2013
Protection is mainly micro wires. Start just right of Ozymandias. Move left up the ramp and up left edge of slab. Step up to spike and fixed sling. Bridge to finger hold. Follow a crack, trending left to a mantel. Move left following a crack into chimney, and bridge boldly up this. Leave the crack and swing left onto the arete. Lay back main arete, move steadily onto main face to gain foot-ledge. From this move boldly up edge to reach final jug. Step up to belay.
Right of Foreign Attack is a large area of vegetated slabs capped by an ominous layer of mud. These have been scrambled across and bouldered upon extensively, but only one route has been recorded.
OFF THE HOOK E1 5a.
25.11.16. Mark Gylby and Gregory Mortyka.
Starts next to Foreign Attack. Up slab,gain boulder,then up slab. Used 3 hooks to gain top.
Further right again is an altogether more attractive piece of rock, the Eliminate Wall.
LESS DOPE MORE ROPE 35m S
W Whelan, C O Fiannachta. 02/04/2012
This route is now disappearing under vegetation again.
Long route starting at the right hand edge of the vegetated slabs 5m left of a big ash tree.Climb straight up to an obvious ledge on small holds. Step up onto a horizontal crack and traverse this rightwards for 4m. From here climb delicately upwards on small holds to a shallow niche (crux). Move right to an obvious flake then climb rightwards and upwards to the obvious blocky steep wall. surmount this to belay as for Eliminate A. Cleaned prior to climbing.
FRAGGLE ROCK 12 m HS
C O Fiannachta, W Whelan. 04/04/2012
Corner climb starting 4m left of Eliminate A. Climb the obvious corner to the top. shares belay position with Eliminate A. Cleaned prior to climbing.
ELIMINATE A *** 15m VD
IMC. Early 1940s.
Probably the best route on the wall. Supremely enjoyable. Start at the bottom left corner of the Eliminate Wall. Climb the left edge of the slab to a small ledge below a thin crack. ?Purists? will spurn the prominent iron spike. Climb the crack on good holds to a ledge and the top. Note: Major rockfall on 2017-08-25 obliterated this route.
ELIMINATE A DASH ** 15m VS 4b
F. Winder 1950.
A bold route up the wall right of Eliminate A. Start as for Eliminate A. Other starts are possible. Climb directly up to a slight bulge just right of the Eliminate A crack. Continue directly up the wall above with difficulty to gain a ledge. Climb the short wall above to the top.
RETURN TO INNOCENCE 15m E3 5c
M. McSherry, 1994. (first recorded ascent, top roped prior to ascent).
A committing little pitch with high stakes and no room for error. Start just left of the fallen block and cruise up the slab left of the niche to a steep blank face. Make a soul searching stretch from micro-crimps to the gorse-covered ledge and finish above.
ELIMINATE B DASH * 15m VD
P. Kenny 1950.
Highly recommended. Start on a fallen block below a niche at 3m. Climb up to the niche and continue on good holds until it is possible to move left to a flake crack. Move up and then reach around to the left and gain a ledge. A short wall leads to the top. More direct variants are also possible.
ELIMINATE B * 16m D
IMC. Early 1940s.
A pleasant meandering route. Start as for ?B-Dash?. Follow this to the step left. Move diagonally rightwards following the line of good holds below the steep headwall, until escape is possible right of the hanging flake.
UP SLIDE RUN 14m VS 4c
S. R. Young. 6.1978.
Excellent climbing. Start at the fallen block. Climb straight past the right-hand end of the niche and make thin moves on tiny edges to better holds above. Continue to the overhang and surmount this using a large flake.
ELEVENS A CROWD 15m VS 4c
S.R. Young. 5.1975.
Start at the fallen block. Move up to the right-hand end of the niche at 3m. Continue diagonally right to a light coloured shallow groove and finish up the steep wall on the left.
ELIMINATE C 12m D
IMC. Early 1940s.
To the right of the fallen block is a dense hawthorn thicket. Start on the right side of this. Climb leftwards on jugs to finish as for Eliminate B.
ELIMINATE D 12m D
IMC. Early I940s.
Start as for Eliminate C. Climb up and right to a slab. Follow this to the top.
ADIDAS 12m D
D. O'Murchu, J. Butler. 1972.
Start on a flake right of Eliminate C. Climb up directly to a short groove. Step left onto the rib to join Eliminate D.
ELIMINATE D DASH 11m VD
IMC. Early 1940s.
Start just right of the flake. Climb directly up the slab to a groove. Finish up this.
SENTRY BOX 9m D
IMC. Early 1940s.
Short but varied. Start just left of a small roof at the right-hand end of Eliminate Wall. Climb the slab to reach a prominent V - groove with a ledge at its base ?the Sentry Box?. Continue up this to the top.
ELIMINATE E 10m D
IMC. Early 1940s.
Start as for Sentry Box. Climb the slab, and then enter the groove right of Sentry Box. Up this to finish.
Opposite the Eliminate Wall is a bulging buttress of grey granite boasting several sporting crack lines. Left of this is a more broken area of walls and slabs. Easter Egg (VD), an insignificant route, climbs the short slab at the left end.
JELLY BEAN 12m S 4a
D. Whitehead, W. Wilson. 1962.
Takes a line up the broken area of rock. Start 4m left of a small ash tree, below a shallow groove and horizontal borehole. Make interesting moves up the groove to gain a short rib, which is climbed on its left side to reach a mossy slab. Follow this to the top.
JELLY BABY - 14m HS 4b
Dave Trunk/Declan Craig 01/07/2010
Start as for Jelly Bean. Climb the Jelly Bean groove then move right crossing a small rib to base of steep wall. Move right along wall for 3m to steep arête with thin crack near its edge. Climb the arête on small holds protection appearing near the top. Belay on bush near wall and exit over the wall.
Two routes which scramble up the gorse and grass covered slopes right of Jelly Bean have been recorded in 1997, but not added to the wiki until 2017, 20 years later! Never Say Di and Lady Emma.
NEVER SAY DI - 17m S
B. Donegan, D. Thomson, J. Sheehan 10/09/1997
Start 4m right of Jelly Bean, behind an ash tree at the short brown (slippery) slab. Climb to the right of the prow and move left and up to a blocky corner. Climb this to the top.
The following two route descriptions may actually be the same route, Giant Stairs may have been added as a route because Lady Emma was put up in 1997, but the description only surfaced in 2017
LADY EMMA - 20m V Diff
J. Sheehan, D. Thomson,B. Donegan 10/09/1997
Start at the foot of the white slab just lef of Nelson's End. Climb the white slab and continue up to s small ash tree (gone as of 2016). Step right onto the arete and follow this to the top, surmounting the overhanging step on the left. Belay at or behind the wall.
GIANT STAIRS VS 4c
Gregegorz Mortyka, Paddy Lendzioszek 25.10.15.
Start left of Nelsons End,delicately up slab with black streak. Balance and smear to lip. Mantel,then follow natural groove to right edge,move left into increased step.
NELSONS END 20m S 3c
G. Jones, D. Balmer. 9.3.1966.
A pleasant route up the left side of the bulging buttress. Start in an alcove 7m right of the small ash tree. Climb the corner using the thin crack on its right wall. Exit right onto the slab and continue to the top over ledges.
Variation: Instead of stepping right to the slab follow the edge of the rib straight up to the boundary wall. S. McMahon, 1998
SMOULDERING STIRRUPS * 12m E2 6a
S. Windrim. 23.8.1977.
A brute of a route taking the left-hand of the two overhanging cracks. Start as for Nelson’s End. Climb the short corner to a flake below the leering crack. This succumbs to technical thuggery. Belay on the slab above.
MAD AS A HATTER E3 6a
M. Duffy, R. Browner, C. Rooney 15.3.1996. (Top-roped prior to ascent).
Start left of Blazing Saddles, below a short slab. Climb the centre of the slab to a break. Reach out right for the jug on Blazing Saddles. Then surmount the overhang rightwards to grapple onto the slab above.
BLAZING SADDLES ** 15m E2 5c
S. Windrim. 8.7.1976
A superb route. Although not as vicious as its neighbour the right-hand crack proves a somewhat tiring excursion. Start at a short corner below the crack. Climb the corner to a good stance below the crack where it is possible to eye it speculatively. Jam the crack to a final, frantic struggle onto the slab above. Belay here, or continue to the top.
JOAS 15m VS 4c
IMC. Early 1940s.
A more amenable companion to the previous routes taking the short wide crack on the right. Start as for Blazing Saddles. Climb the corner to the overhang. Move right on undercuts to gain the wide crack, and follow this to a slab and belays. The wide crack can also be reached by climbing the stepped slab on the right via a precarious mantelshelf and then traversing left to the crack.
DIADEM 15m E1 5b
S.R. Young, P. O'Neil. 8.1979.
Provides an interesting variation finish to Joas. From the base of the wide crack, move left into the shallow quartzy scoop above the overhang and up this to the slab and belays.
Right of Joas at the same level is a small dark detached buttress with a shallow groove up the centre. This buttress hosts a number of mini-routes.
JINGLE BELLS 8m E2 6a
T. Burke. 1981. B. Callan. 4.1990. (Free as Vic Reeves Big Night Out).
From the centre of the buttress a crack zigzags its way out across the left wall. Follow this crack with increasing difficulty under a nose and up into a niche.
THE RAGGED EDGE 7m E3 6a
R. Browner, M. Duffy. 16.5.1996.
Start as for Jingle Bells but continue up the arête with interest.
ALTER-EGO 7m E2 6a
R. Browner, M. Duffy. 16.5.1996.
Start below the arête right of Jingle Bells. Climb up and right onto a ledge in a groove. Then climb up and right out of the groove onto another ledge to finish above.
GROUND ZERO 8m E2 6a
R. Browner, M. Duffy, C. Rooney. 16.5.1996.
Climbs the groove right of Jingle Bells. Climb the groove from the bottom to the top!
CUSTODIAN CONDUCT 7m E3 6b
R. Browner, M. Duffy, C. Rooney. 18.5.1996.
Takes the obvious corner right of Jingle Bells, with an all or nothing move to gain the ledge.
DEMONIC 6m S
R. Browner, M. Duffy, C. Rooney. 18.5.1996.
Climbs the insignificant severe crack to the right of Custodian Conduct.
Right of the previous routes, but at a lower level, there is a light brown wall with a large sycamore tree in front of it. The following routes breach the wall.
NECROPOLIS 18m E1 5b
M. Diggins. 1986.
Takes the grey wall left of the tree. Start below a small overlap at 3m. Climb the wall boldly past the overlap to a vegetated ledge. Continue up the thin crack to a prickly finish.
DETRITUS 20m VS 4c
K. Higgs, T. Ryan. 2.4.1977.
A good, steep route. Start behind the large tree below a faint groove. Climb the wall to a recess between two boreholes. Climb diagonally left to a small ledge. Move up and right onto a nose, and continue up the wall via a flake to thread belays on the left.
RE-ENTRY 14m HVS 5a
S.R. Young. P Brennan. 3.4.1973.
A poor route with a ?death? finish, it climbs the groove at the right end of the wall. Very rarely climbed. Climb the groove to a peg runner on the right wall. Move up slightly, then swing out right around the overhang to gain a slab, which is green at the best of times, and covered in a slimy coating at the worst. If you decide to go for it, make sure that your second is good at catching flying objects.
STUCCO 11m D/DIRE
S.R. Young. 3.4.1977.
Arguably the biggest ?Bag?? in the guide, although Central Gully does come close. Mere words do not do this route justice. The short corner 2m right of Re-Entry may leave you paralysed with disbelief on first viewing.
Right again from the Re-Entry Wall is an extremely low angled slab the ?kids? sliding slab?, with small buttresses above providing good boulder problems and one recorded route. Thanks, Mr Quarryman (VD) takes the slab and short wall left of the two parallel cracks. Overlooking the ?kids? sliding slab? is a long, slabby wall with an obvious hairline crack. Four short, but worthwhile routes are found here.
HIGH TRUE BUFFER CLEAR 7m HVS 5a
M. Diggins. 1986.
Climbs the wall at the left-hand end, finishing up a thin crack. The crack can be avoided by stepping right.
ICE CREAM 7m E4 6a
R. Browner. 20.3.94.
A poor route on poorer rock with even poorer gear. Start 2m right of High True Buffer Clear. Climb directly up onto a dubious flake at half height, move slightly right and finish decisively.
GREENLAND CRACK 6m E3 6a
IMC. Greenland Expedition. 1968 (Aid). H. Hebblethwaite. 11.1987 (Free).
The thin crack provides a short but technically absorbing route.
THE ARÊTE 5m VS 4c
S.R. Young. 1978.
Climbs the right arête of the wall.
Right of The Arête is a white slab hidden behind two ash trees.
BRACHIAL 15m S 3c
L. Convery, J. Lynam. 26.7.1978.
Start below the thin hairline crack. Climb the slab left of the crack to a gorse covered terrace. Continue strenuously up the diagonal crack to the top.
DACTYLIC 15m S 3c
L. Convery, J. Lynam. 4.7.1978.
Start as for Brachial. Climb the thin crack to a ledge. Up the short corner to the large gorse covered terrace. Finish up the short wall and corner right of the diagonal crack. Alternatively finish further right via a vertical slot.
THE MUSKETEERS 15m S 4a
L. Convery, J. Lynam, W. Hannon. 3.6.2001
A dry weather friction climb with poor protection, climb the slab to the right of the hairline crack to the gorse covered terrace. Continue up the upper slab just left of the black streak and finish as for Dactylic.
WALTZING MATILDA 19m D
L. Convery, J. Lynam. 4.7.1978.
Takes a broken, chossy line up the right side of the slab, finishing up the short wall and corner as for Dactylic.
EOS 20m D
J. Butler, T. Creedon. 8.8.1973.
A machete may prove useful to reach the start. Climb the corner groove on the right side of the white slab, continuing up over broken ledges and the right edge of a lichenous green slab to the top.
To the right, a wide grassy gully leads to the plateau. The following two routes start part way up the gully on its left side.
SUAS 9m S 3c
L. Convery, J. Lynam. 26.7.1978.
Start in a recess containing a small whitebeam tree. Climb the wall behind the tree and continue up the broken face above. A harder start climbs the overhanging corner on the right.
BULLET OF TRUTH HVS 5a
Grzegorz Motyka and Mark Gylby 23.3.2017
Start right of Suas, directly up face to reach rising crack, move above micro gear to gain ledge and horizontal bore. Move directly up over bulge to reach top.
BITE THE BULLET Vs 5a
Mark Gylby and Grzegorz Monika 25.2.2017
Route between Suas and Monymusk. Start just left of vertical bore hole on ramp start. High step up following edge to V ledge, up to horizontal borehole, move right to overhang, gain top direct.
BORN TO BE WILD VS 4C
Mark Gylby & Grzegorz Motyka 23.4.2017.
Start between Bite the bullet and Monymusk. Off ramp climb direct towards small bore hole above. Edge with increased difficulty to gain bore, move left to ledge. Move directly up through broken quartz to gain top.
MONYMUSK 10m D
J. Lynam, N. Lynam, L. Convery. 18.7.1978.
Start just right of Suas. Climb the rib to where it steepens. Move right and continue up the slab to the top.
Right of the grassy gully is a large area of steep walls. The walls merge into a fine sweep of slabs. The following four routes breach the steep wall.
APPETITE FOR DESTRUCTION 13m E5 6a
D. Ayton, A. Tarjani, 16.7.2004.
Start 10m left of the ash tree, directly below the finishing groove of Ripsnorter. Climb a short groove and follow line of leftward trending holds to a hollow flake (poor wire). Move out right to avail of the peg protection on Ripsnorter, return back left and attempt to gain the finishing groove from below.
RIPSNORTER ** 20m E5 6a
D. O'Sullivan, J. Stark. 16.8.1990.
Hard technical climbing. Near the left end of the steep wall behind an ash tree is a leftward facing corner, which peters out 2/3 of the way up the face. Start at the base of the corner. Thug leftwards along the rising break to a peg runner, then straight up to the corner via a thin move. From the top of the corner move left easily for 2m and then up to two pegs. Teeter out leftwards to the orange groove (crux), which quickly deposits one at a thread belay or halfway back down the wall.
INDECENT ASSAULT ** 20m E8 6c
R. Browner, J. Gillmor. 4.7.1995. (Top-roped prior to ascent. Two homemade pegs were used, no longer in-situ).
An audacious outing where the difficulties and dangers increase to a heart-stopping finale. From the ash tree, climb right and move up with relative ease to a ledge at half height (pegs). The route now begins in earnest. Continue up the wall via a series of tricky moves, which lead to the crux rockover, left and then one more tenuous move to escape up the finishing groove.
ALEXANDRIA ** 20m E6 6b
R. Browner, K. Kuss. 11.8.2004.
An excellent route with some exciting moments. Takes a line below the point where the top of the steep wall meets the top of the Ghost Slab. Climb boldly up to a peg at 9m, traverse left then move up a shallow groove to an undercut flake. Make a difficult pull left to enter a second shallow groove. Another hard move is made to exit the groove, moving slightly left to a breathtaking finish.
The following routes are located on the slabs to the right of the steep wall.
Super G E6 6b
R. Browner, J Gernon. 23.09.1R. Browner, J Gernon. 23.09.11
An involved voyage across the Ripsnorter wall. Start at the base of the Ghost slab and traverse leftward and gradually upward with increasing peril to a committing move which gains the sanctuary of the peg on Alexandria. Continue left across to a small ledge and on through Indecent Assault and onward again to a peg below a rightward trending crack which leads upward to the crux finish. The final few meters had been previously climbed on top-rope while exploring the possibilities of a more direct project line.
THE GHOST *** 23m E2 5b
S. Windrim, D. Windrim. 11.7.1976.
A superb route, giving bold, intricate climbing. Start at the left end of the slabs on a grass-covered block. Climb up onto the slab and traverse left along the edge to reach a large niche with difficulty. Move out right using a small diagonal overlap to gain a good hold and make a long step right to a sloping ledge. Good wire at foot level. Pull up on small holds beneath the arched overlap. Surmount this delicately to reach better holds (with relief) and finish up the shallow groove above. A great pitch.
Variations: 1. Time Warp 5b Start 5m left of the normal start beneath a borehole. Climb the steep wall past the borehole to a narrow hand ledge. Traverse this hastily rightwards to gain the niche. Unfortunately very dirty. J. Grube, J. Price. 5.1983.
HORRIFIED E4 6a
R. Browner, S. Coughlan, W. Walshaw. 27.7.1995.
Climbs directly up the slab between two faint seams to join The Ghost at the right hand end of the sloping ledge.
HAUNTED *** 22m E5 6a
H. Hebblethwaite. 8.1988. R. Browner, P. Keane. 4.8.1998. (Reclimbed after crucial foothold broke off).
Brilliant technical climbing, in a superb ?out there? position on the left edge of the slab. Follow The Ghost to the niche. Step left and climb the arête on tiny holds passing two peg runners ?en route?.
THE BOGEY MAN 20m E6 6a
R. Browner, M. Duffy. 21.9.1996. (Top-roped prior to ascent).
A daunting challenge up the centre of the Ghost slab. Follow The Ghost to the niche. Exit the top of the niche with difficulty and delicately pad your way straight up the slab above.
THE PHANTOM RASPBERRY BLOWER *** 25m E5 5c
D. O'Sullivan. 13 8.1990.
The upper traverse line on the Ghost Slab is an excursion for those of stout heart. You can leave the gear behind for this one. Once embarked upon you might as well keep going as it is just as hard reversing, and as everyone knows, it is much more honourable to fall off going up, than it is to fall of whilst trying to reverse. Massive crater potential. Follow The Ghost to the right hand end of the fault. Before confidence disappears, launch out leftwards and manically crimp your way along the line to a junction with Haunted. The ensuing buzz is tremendous.
SPECTRE 20m E6 6a
D. O'Sullivan. 13.6.1991. (Top-roped prior to ascent).
Takes the faint seam above Phantom Raspberry Blower. Sustained, scary climbing with some doubtful rock and no protection. Follow The Ghost to the intersection with Phantom Raspberry Blower. Just left of a right facing overlap in The Ghost is a thin left-arching crack, follow this until a hard move gains the left trending seam. Follow the seam intrepidly leftwards to reach a good hold and an easy exit.
POLTERGEIST * 20m E4 5c
T. Burke, P. O'Sullivan, K. Murphy. 8.1983.
Takes a fairly direct line up the Ghost Slab. Quite serious in its upper section, though unfortunately escapable at several points. Start as for The Ghost. Move up and diagonally left for 3m. Climb the slab on very small holds passing the diagonal overlap on The Ghost. Mantelshelf onto a small ledge and move up to a horizontal break. Continue directly up the slab above, just left of The Ghost, and don?t fall off.
THE EXORCIST E2 5c
K. Cooper, J. Lally. 16.6.1994.
Start as for The Ghost. Climb up and right to a peg. Continue up leftward to join The Ghost.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING ** 20m HS 4b
D. Milnes, J. Lynam. 20.1.1968.
The left hand of the two wide cracks provides an extremely enjoyable route. ”Purists” will spurn the easier deviations out right or left near the top and finish direct up the corner. Well protected all the way.
HUNG OVER * 20m E3 6a
T. O'Connor, N. Keegan. Summer 1994.
Squeezes in between Yorkshire Pudding and Honeypot Crack. A surprisingly good route with both its hard moves made above good gear. Climb the thin crack right of Yorkshire Pudding. Step delicately right onto a shallow pocket and continue up to a good stance at the bulge (small hex in borehole). Climb the centre of the bulge to reach a good hold and continue directly to the top.
HONEYPOT CRACK ** 20m S 3c
F. Maguire. 1952.
The right-hand crack provides another excellent route. Unfortunately heavy rain frequently turns the lower section into a greasy watercourse.
THE CRUCIBLE 20m E3 6a
J. Grube, T. Burke. 7.1984.
Sadly now buried under a veritable field of lichen. Start midway between Honeypot Crack and Masochist. Climb the slab between the two cracks with thin moves through an overlap at 3m, and continue direct on small holds just left of Masochist to gain a large ledge. From the ledge finish more easily to the top.
MASOCHIST * 20m E3 6a
G. Jones, B. Walsh. 1.6.1967 (Aid). H.
The thin crackline right of Honeypot Crack. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty until hard moves on “tinies” allow the large ledge to be reached. Continue more easily to the top. Adequate protection at the crux can be arranged using small wires.
Variation: 5c The crux can be avoided by moving slightly left and then climbing the slab on small holds to the scoop. P. O'Sullivan, T. Burke. 8.1981.
EL CAMINO 18m E4 6b
H. Hebblethwaite. 9.1990.
A very thin eliminate up the slab 2m right of Masochist. Climb the slab direct by some deft pulling on dots to gain the ledge on Masochist. Finish up this.
SPACE SHUTTLE ** 18m E3 6b
J. Grube. Spring 1982.
An uncompromisingly technical line up the slab to the right. It frequently sees horrendous, rubber burning slides from its crux. Fortunately however, the landing is reasonable and usually it is just one?s ego that is damaged. Start 4m down and left of the corner of Lumberjack. Climb the slab using tiny edges until a spine tingling sequence of smears gains the thin horizontal break. Continue up more easily to join Lumberjack.
LUNAR LANDING 20m E2 5b
J. Grube. Summer 1982.
A rather pointless traverse of the slab. Start as for Space Shuttle. Traverse up and left following a quartz vein, and cross Masochist into Honeypot Crack. Left again into Yorkshire Pudding. Finish up this or The Ghost.
VOLTAS, VORTIC, VECTOR 16m E3 6b
T. Burke. 1985.
Another desperate problem up the thin crack right of Space Shuttle. Climb the thin crack until it fades. Move left and finish direct, or right to join Lumberjack.
LUMBERJACK 18m S 4a
C. Rice, S.R. Young, J. Muihall, D. Leonard, J. Lynam. 10.6.1972.
A very worthwhile route up the right side of the slab. Start below the corner at the right end of the slab. Climb the corner until it is possible to traverse left to a niche and then up over a slight bulge to an overhang. Continue left and up on undercuts to the top.
Variations Direct Start 4b The slab just left of the corner.
Direct Finish HS 4b Continue over the overhang via a thin crack to the top. S. Windrim, D Windrim. 1975.
Right of the Ghost Slab the cliff steepens again, becoming blocky and recessed. In April, 2010, while creating a circular walkway, the workmen stripped the shrubbery and vegetation from the base of the slab to the right of Lumberjack, to reveal a clean overhang, split by two cracks and set above a broad ledge.
The following route takes the righthand crack and continues up some previously unclimbed rock.
SILVER LINING 25m. HS 4c.
G. Moss, J. Reville. 1/5/2010.
Start at a small block below the centre of the overhang. Up onto the platform and move right to the foot of the righthand crack. Climb the crack through the overhang (crux) and follow it to where it ends. Slope up right to the base of the corner just left of the horizontal drillhole. Climb the corner and small overhang on good holds. Move up to the base of the overhanging wall and traverse up diagonally right to the base of the short left-trending crack. Climb this to a ledge, step out left and traverse across to the highest point, finishing at a small finger bowl.
Variation start Use the bouldery left hand crack (5a) to breach the overhang B Watts 20/6/2010
Variation 2: Start as slab, to groove(existing route). Then edge right to gain point of block. Up lip onto white slab and then finish as per existing route. Grzegorz Motyka and Mark Gylby 27/12/2017
The following route starts at the bottom right of the easy angled white slab.
SLAB ROUTE 16m D
IMC. Early 1940s.
Start at the bottom right of the slab and climb easily to the zig-zag crack, up this, and scramble to the top. The crack can be avoided by climbing over blocks to the left.
PORCUPINE 17m VD
P. Kenny. 1951.
Start as for Slab Route below the bottom right corner of the white slab. Climb the short, steep corner just right of the slab over a protruding block to a ledge and gorse bush. Alternatively climb the easy slabby corner and move right to gain the ledge. Step left and continue up past a recess and groove to a huge block. Either move right or left around this to reach a ledge. Continue up the crack to the top.
OGGIE 17m S 4a
S.R. Young, D. O'Murchu. 26.7.1973.
Start as for Porcupine. Climb the slab just right of the Porcupine corner to gain the gorse bush ledge right of the block. Up the short wall and follow a quartz vein rightwards until a committing move allows some cracked blocks to be reached. Pull around these to the top.
FANG ** 15m HVS 5a
J. Price, B. Rodgers. 3.1967.
A fine companion to Stereo-Tentacles providing absorbing climbing. Start as for Porcupine. Climb the open slabby corner to the overhang. Traverse up and right to a ledge below a groove, peg runner. Make a precarious move up into the groove and then step right to escape up easier ground to the top.
SKID ROW 15m HVS 5b
S. Windrim, D. Windrim. Spring 1975.
An eliminate up the wall between Fang and Stereo-Tentacles. Start at a vertical quartz vein midway between these two routes. Climb the steep wall past an overlap and horizontal drill hole to reach the Fang ledge, peg runner. Ascend the wall above directly and exit over a bulge.
STEREO-TENTACLES *** 14m HVS 5a
S.R. Young, D. O'Murchu. 28.7.1973.
A real peach of a route giving technical climbing on small holds with a considerable feel of commitment to it. Reasonably well protected. Start as for Porcupine. Climb up easily rightwards to a recess below an obvious vertical drill hole. Thin moves lead up the slabby corner on the left to the Fang ledge (peg). Precarious bridging up the corner allows a long stride left onto a spike. Finish more easily.
HIATUS 14m HS 4b
J. Lynam, P. Kenny, P. Panayotou.
A good steep crux. The wall and groove left of the hanging prow. Follow Stereo-Tentacles to the recess below the vertical drill hole. Climb steeply up the wall past the drill hole to gain the ledge (crux). Continue more easily up the corner above to the top. Variation: The Shit Creek Finish VS 5a Steps left from the ledge to join Fang at the peg runner. Finish up Fang. P. Duggan. 1963.
DRIFTERS ESCAPE 17m VS 4b
J. Colton, N. Maguire. Spring 1977.
Start amongst the undergrowth at the foot of a corner below a steep section of orange, rotten looking rock. Climb the corner onto a slab. Move left to below a groove on the right side of the hanging prow. Swing left around the prow using the slab and crack to gain the ledge above the crux of Hiatus. Finish up the corner above.
BUSHWHACKER E1 6a
Dayle Smyth and Jeremy Colandairaj (Toproped before FA) April 2007.
Technical moves up the wall rewarded with a ledge and seemingly loose finish of Shatt. Start 1m left of Shatt with a mantel, move leftwards to a slap at the left arête and thankgod holds above. Contemplate on the ledge and finish up the corner of Shatt.
Note: Route has become more serious since the bush below the left arête was removed, although it might be approachable as a highball boulder problem.
SHATT 15m S 4a
D. O Murchu, S.R. Young. 11.11.1972.
Start as for Drifter's Escape at the bottom of the corner. Follow Drifter's Escape to where it swings left around the prow. Climb the steep groove above on dubious rock carefully. Finish up a rib on the left.
ECLIPSE 16m S 4a
D. Ryan, R. Windrim. Summer 1974.
Definitely not recommended. Start as for Subpoena. Thrash leftwards through the morass of vegetation, then up past a small overlap to gain a gorse-covered ledge. Continue to the top via a leftward trending slab.
RISING CURVE VS 5a
Mark Gylby and Grzegorz Motyka 26.08.2017
Start left of subpoena. Climb on left of vertical white quartz. Micros under slight roof block. Step left onto small ledge. Move right onto face, with three quartz lines, to gain sloping ledge. Move left onto rising groove, bridge and follow to top.
SUBPOENA 14m HS 4b
J. Leonard, S.R. Young. 24.7.1973.
Start just left of a vertical drill hole, below a rib and vertical quartz vein running up to a spacious ledge. Follow the rib to the ledge, move left and up over a bulge. Continue up the steep arête left of the clean corner of Assassin.
ASSASSIN * 14m HVS 5a
P. McClelland, P. McManus. 26.8.1988.
Short but sharp. It takes the corner right of the upper arête of Subpoena. Follow Subpoena or Triptych to the spacious ledge. Move left and step up into the steep clean corner to arrange protection before reaching out left to a sharp rib. Continue up this rib on its right hand side. Hard for the grade and harder for the short.
TRIPTYCH 14m VS 4c
E. Bottomley, B. O'Flynn. 1961.
Worrying. Start just right of Subpoena at a vertical drill hole. Climb the drill hole and move left to gain the spacious ledge. Up the wall above to gain a leftward trending groove line with difficulty. Follow this to finish at the top of Assassin. Variation: An inferior eliminate finish between Triptych and Diphthong has been recorded.
DIPHTHONG * 14m S 4a
IMC. Early 1940s.
A fine route with lovely climbing up the top wall. Start as for Triptych at the vertical drill hole. Up past the drill hole and move right onto the spacious ledge. Climb the wall above on its right side by means of the prominant quartz vein, swinging right to finish.
SLABS WALL 14m D
IMC. Early 1940s.
Start 3m right of the vertical drill hole on Triptych. Climb the slabby wall to reach a short vertical drill hole and finish slightly right.
DRINKERS DIRECT 15m VD
J. MuIhall, J. Leonard, P. Lyons. 9.1971.
A scrappy route. Start down and to the right of Slabs Wall below the finish of Drinker?s Delight. Climb straight over ledges and bulges to a large ledge. Finish as for Drinker?s Delight.
DRINKERS DELIGHT 15m VD
P. Kenny, W.R. Perrott. 1953.
A much better route than its namesakes. Start below the right-hand of two leftward trending corners. Climb the corner to a ledge, and continue up the steeper groove above to another ledge, junction with Drinker?s Direct. Step left and finish up a short groove.
NEED A DRINK 15m E4 6b
T. O Connor, C. O Connor, N. Keegan. 8.1997. (Top-roped prior to ascent).
The wall right of Drinker?s Delight main corner provides hard and committing moves above a nasty landing. Climb direct to the ledge of Drinker?s Delight at 5m. Launch up the thin crack on the wall to a small borehole and finish at the larger borehole on the skyline.
BANDIT VS 5a
Mark Gylby and Grzegorz Motyka.14.01.2017.
Start right next to Drinkers Delight. Up ledge, climb straight gain ledge. Follow crack right three quarter up. Delicate move straight to top, gain curved ledge. Mantel on to curved edge, gain borehole and move to top.
THE SLOPS 14m S 4a
M. Punch, L. Breathnach. 21.05.2014
Start at the bottom of the ramp between drinkers delight and coca cola. Climb straight up and move left past a flake to gain the ledge. From here follow a slight quartz vein to a sloping hand hold where you can pull up onto the slab.
1+1=3 E2 5b
Grzegorz Motyka and Mark Gylby 29.10.2017
Start right of The Slops at base of ramp. Micro gear at top of ramp. From base of ramp, climb directly up on face, to small ledge. With difficulty gain right flake, edge up to gain left slope, with increased difficulty gain lead edge. Gain grass ledge, move right and follow rising crack to top. Mantle on to sloping edge and follow right to top.
GMMG 14m VS(5a)
Grzegorz Motyka and Mark Gylby. 11.02.17
Start right of The Slops, climb straight up to borehole Crack, follow left curving slope with delicate move. Up past bush to gain Bandit crack, climb right ,then directly up, gain sloping edge, mantel and gain bore hole.
COCA - COLA 14m D
J. Lynam, L. Convery. 18.4.1977.
Start just left of the short steep corner of Inside Straight. Climb two mantelshelves, then move right onto a ramp leading to a large ledge. Up left, then back right along a sloping ledge to gain an easy slab and the top.
INSIDE STRAIGHT 5m HVS 5b
J. Grube. Autumn 1982.
Climbs the short steep corner at the right-hand end of the wall.
OCCAMS EDGE 6m HVS 5b
J. Grube. Autumn 1982.
A tricky little number up the arête just right of Inside Straight.
ENTER CERT 6m 6b
J. Grube. 3.1984.
A desperate mini route on ?tinies? up the centre of the slab just right of Inside Straight.
Above and to the right of the previous routes is a low angled slab, which is reached by a scramble through the gorse bushes.
DYNAMIC 11m S 3c
L. Convery, J. Lynam. 8.10.1977.
Start at the right-hand side of the slab. Layback up the right edge of the slab, step left into the incipient crack, which is climbed to the top. Peg belay. Slightly harder variations are possible, starting further left.
For the record (and if you are desperate) a ?route? has been recorded up the wall below and right of Dynamic. Preface (S) has to be the shortest and most insignificant route in the world. It has to be seen to be believed and should be done in big boots to fully savour its delights.