Doonamo Point

From Irish Climbing Wiki

(Dún na mBó)

The following information is taken directly from New Climbs 1993 - 1995.

GR F 64 42 Sheet 6 1/2/inch. On the west coast of the Mullet, north west of Belmullet.

The crag is south facing, rock is clean and of high quality friction. Description sent in reads "reasonable top protection for leader, but not a lot of climb protection". The rock is considered to be pretty sound, is mainly of horizontal cracks, shelfs and steps, but not a lot of protection.

Approach: Enter a field on the left side of gravel road and the crag is about 30m beyond the Doonamo Blowhole. It is idenified by being exactly opposite a large 60m x 30m rock out to sea which is joined to the crag by a shelf. Abseil down to a small platform in a corner and this will provide standing space for up to three persons.

1/. Spider's Fall S 20m
G. O'Neill, C. Lynch 8.4.94
Start from the platform and move directly up into corner about 3m. Protection point. Traverse left out into the exposed face over a quartzite patch. Move upward along a vertical break to another horizontal crack and continue to the top by the left side of a vertical flake.

2/. Oakwood Revisited V. Diff 20m
J. Tracey 8.4.94
From the platform, move up the corner on the left side of the small arete which becomes easier towards the top where large steps remove the buzz from the climb.

3/. Beaty's Brainy Brother HS4b 22m
M. Tracey, G. O'Neill 8.4.94
From the platform move move to the right face by moving up to the overhanging block. Surmount this block and continue to the top directly via a series of horizontal cracks. No protection.

4/. Beavis and Butthead HS4b 22m
G. O'Neill (solo) 9.4.94
Start as for Beaty's Brainy Brother but, from the overhanging block move out right to below the nose and climb up and out to the edge of this nose and directly to top.