Coreen More
Location
This crag is located in the Wild Nephin National Park, on the Northern end of Coreen More ridge, F956 079. From Newport, take the N59 to Mulranny/Achill. Shortly after leaving the town, turn right to the L1402 to Furnace. Continue for approximately 12 km, and then turn left to the Broghan Carroll Bothy/Letterkeen Trailhead. Park there. Follow the marks for the Western Way North on the forestry road. Follow the road for approximately 40 minutes. Then, take the trail into the col between Coreen More and Coreen Beg. Walk past the highest point on the trail, and the crag will become visible from the path on the left. Cut through the bog to the crag.
Although the crag is situated almost right in the middle of the Letterkeen Loop/Bothy Loop, the western side of Coreen More is boggy and more difficult, approaching it from that side is not advised.
Conservation
Please note this is one of the most remote, wild, and unspoiled areas in Ireland, and we should do everything to keep it that way. Adherence to the Leave no Trace rules is a minimum. If you want to try new routes please find a rock which is clean by its nature. Do not clean any large expanses of rock. These rocks are home to mosses, lichens and vegetation, let's leave them that way.
Safety
Please do not take phone coverage for granted. Phones do not work in the valleys, they work poorly on the slopes, and so-so on the summits. Inform someone of your whereabouts, and take screenshots of the topos and route descriptions.
Character
It is a short, 9m crag perfect for learning leading trad. Routes vary from Diff to HS, varied protection is required, thus it is a perfect learning ground. The rock above provides some protection for anchors, however, cams or tricams are necessary. As these types of protection tend to walk, constant supervision is required. Hence, the crag is not suitable for bottom roping.
Routes described left to right
1. Cheap Flights, HS, J.Gruszczyk, C. Murray, 7.09.24
Start just right from the corner, climb the overhang to the corner between the overhanging rock. Scramble carefully on the grass to reach the anchor point.
2. Yekaterina Direct, Diff., A. Souček, J. Gruszczyk, 9.03.24
Start on good holds directly below the corner between the overhanging rock and the slab. Then, climb the corner. Excellent protection.
3. Balconi, V.Diff., J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 16.09.24
Start on good holds 1m right from Yekaterina Direct, climb straight up.
4. Pootfath, V.Diff., J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 16.09.24
The line directly in the middle of the slab. Excellent climbing on good holds, and much easier than it looks, but the first good piece of protection is half way up.
5. Knees Up Mother Brown, V.Diff., I. Hicks, J. Gruszczyk, 16.09.24
Climb 1m right from Pootfath.
6. Deception, Severe, C. Murray, J. Gruszczyk, 7.09.24
Bouldery, risky start. Start on the arete and veer slightly left when you reach mid-height.
7. How handy, Severe, J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 03.10.24
Traverse left to right. Start as for Cheap Flights, climb up the corner to the second diagonal crack, follow to the end of the wall, finish as for Deception
8. The armchair, Severe, J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 03.10.24
Traverse right to left, eliminate line which leads from 2 metres up Deception to the protruding rock you can sit on while placing the last bit of protection.
The Lonesome Pine Crag
Access: from the same spot of the Letterkeen Loop, hit the ridge of Coreen More. Walk 5 to 10 minutes, as far as Mosaic Wall (a great opportunity for a warmup!), then contour right for about 5 minutes. There is a small cave to the left of the crag, and a lonesome pine in front of it.
Character: it is a beautiful rock, with amazing features and beautiful views, perfect for those who climb for aesthetics rather than for grades. The climbing itself is very pleasant, but the protection is not easy to find, especially on the bottom and on the top. It eats cams and tricams, or an occasional hex, but it doesn't yield much to nuts.
The anchor points are solid, but 10m away on a grassy slope, so they should be approached with the utmost care and respect. A set of 60m half ropes was used and was sufficient.
1. The Map of Flying Rocks, Severe, J. Gruszczyk, I.Hicks, 30/04/25
The steepest route on the crag.
Start on the overhang on the left hand side, proceed to the other overhanging bit with a small tree, then climb on the left trough another grassy lip to the top.
Some unstable rock so requires a good judgement.
2. Sundried Potato, V.Diff, J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 12/03/25
Start 1m right of The Map of Flying Rocks, climb straight to the top
3. Coreen Amore, V.Diff, J.Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 12/03/25
Start on huge pockets in the middle of the wall, climb straight up. Placements zigzag, so climb on half ropes or bring a lot of extenders.
4. The Lonesome Pine, V.Diff, I. Hicks, J. Gruszczyk, 12/03/25
Start in the corner on the right, finish as Coreen Amore
5. Far Right, Diff, J.Gruszczyk, I.Hicks, 30/04/25
Start on the rib, continue on the right to the top.
