Clogherhead

CLOGHERHEAD (Ceann Chlochair) Co. LOUTH.

An interim guide. All gradings should be regarded as provisional. Cams are the best option for protection on many of the climbs. Some of the route names are provisional and may change.

This aptly-named headland is owned and managed by Louth County Council as a designated SAC and a local amenity. On this short stretch of coastline there is one sizable buttress and several smaller ones, all just a short stroll from the car park, along a well-worn path. There may be options for bouldering, too. It’s a very pleasant spot, getting a lot of sunshine, with splendid views of the Cooley and Mourne mountains further north.

The rock is greywacke, providing good friction when dry, but greasy when wet. E facing, it is sheltered from most winds, but should be avoided when there are strong E or S/E winds, due to high splash zones.

APPROACH. From the main street in Clogherhead village take the road signposted for Port Oriel Harbour and park at the top of the large public car park directly above the Harbour.  Cross the stile in the wall and drop down to cross the wooden stile at the foot of the fence to join the grassy path. Continue along it, moving parallel to the coast, until you come to a fence (5 minutes).

NORTH BUTTRESS. This is located about 20 m before the fence, below the foot of an earthen bank running down the hillside, and is reached by scrambling back N from near the bottom of the fence, to the foot of the buttress.  Low to half tide only.  (The slab to the R of the buttress is peppered with holds, providing pleasant scrambling), All climbs are described from R to L, facing the rock. All climbs start at sea level, best at low to middle tide.

Winchy winchy Spider VS4c

The R hand rib is the broadest one. From the top of the rib cross a gap and climb the short head-wall near the R edge.  Belay well back.   S.Daly. G.Moss. 23/6/25

No Flies on Me HS4b

The rib just L of above is the shortest one. From the top of the rib step across R and move up over a gap to climb the short head-wall near its centre.

S.Daly, G.Moss 23/6/25

Babóg na Bealtaine V.D

There are two shallow chimneys on the buttress. This climb follows the R-hand one.

G. Moss 15/05/25

Walk into my parlour VS4c

The rib immediately L of BnaB.     

S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25.

Web of Intrigue HVS5a

The L-hand rib.

S. Daly, G.Moss 18/6/25

THE MAIN BUTTRESS, R-hand side.  Descend via the grassy slope and rocks on the L (facing out) or, more easily, abseil. It is possible to scramble down from the bottom of the fence and traverse around to the foot of the R-hand side of the buttress but the lower rocks can be greasy after a high tide and in such case an abseil approach is preferable (go through a gap in the fence at the warning sign and follow a narrow path down to locate a suitable abseil point).  

Auld Lang Syne V. Diff

The obvious crack on the R edge of the buttress. Climb the crack and move steeply up  L, on biscuit coloured rock, at the top

C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24.                     

Ring in the New Severe

The shallow corner immediately L of above. Spaced protection.

C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24.

Autumn Airs. E1 5b

Start just L of above, below the crack splitting the skyline. Climb up and through the gap. S.Daly, G. Moss 10/10/25

No country for old men HVS5a

3m L of Ring in the New. A steep start leads to sustained climbing.

S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25.

The Tooth Fairy E1 5b

Start L of above, directly below the obvious hanging rock tooth, Climb directly to the top. Poor protection.

S. Daly, G. Moss 10/10/25.

Fiacail Forais V. Diff

Start below and L of an obvious hanging rock tooth 3 meters above. Climb to a thread anchor around a flat block.

G. Moss 19/3/25.

Lú Lámh Fháda V.Diff

Start just L of Fiacail Forais below the L edge. Follow the edge to a thread anchor around a flat block.

G. Moss 19/3/25.

Habemus Papam Severe

Start at the bottom R of the deep dark recess just L of LLF. Climb the narrow ramp on the R side of the recess, difficulties increasing with height.

G. Moss 8/5/25. 

Dubh Dorcha V. Diff

Start immediately L of HP. Climb straight up to a block belay.

G. Moss 18/4/25.

Tír na nÓg HVS5a

Start at the bottom L of the dark recess. Move up a short subsidiary slab until it is possible to pull across L to gain the bottom of the steep, narrow slab. Follow this, with interest, to the top.

S. Daly, G. Moss. 23/6/25.

MAIN BUTTRESS L-hand side Access to this section, which is to the L of the dark recess, is easiest by abseil.

Eitre Éasca Diff.

Abseil down the obvious shallow chimney 4m S of the dark recess, to a ledge above the high tide mark. Move 4m R and climb on good holds to the foot of a groove at 4m. Follow the groove to the top.

C. McGovern, G. Moss 4/5/25

Alternative Arete VS4c

Abseil down the obvious shallow chimney 4m S of the dark recess and move 2m R along a ledge above the high tide mark. Climb on good holds to a large ledge. Climb the steep arete on the R.

S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25

Trasna na dTonnta V. Diff

Abseil as for above to the foot of the shallow chimney with a small overhang at 4m. Climb the chimney, the overhang providing the crux.

G. Moss 18/4/25

THE SOUTHERN SECTION. This area is about 60 m south of the main buttress, beyond a jumble of boulders and short slabs. Two pointed, conical slabs feature prominently and the tops of these can be clearly seen from the main buttress.

Approach. Follow the path from the car par for just under 10 minutes, to a section of wooden fencing on the L, topped by barbed wire. Cross here and go down, veering L, over steep grass and rock to where there are two obvious, steep, conical slabs. The most southerly of the two has a rusty bolted lower off on top but we could find no record of an ascent on either the wiki or UKC, so the slab may have been top-roped. The slabs and climbs on this section are described from L to R, moving back N.

Time nor Tide E1 5b

4m L of the bolted slab there is a short, steep, wide slab. This climb follows a line just R of the L edge.

S. Daly, G. Moss. 16/7/25

Seóltaí Geala M Severe.

The crack running up the L side of the bolted slab. Start from a sloping ledge below the slab, low to half-tide only. The crux being the last couple of moves. Most likely climbed before. First recorded ascent

G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25

Fumata Bianca V. Diff.

Climb the shallow corner between the two conical slabs.     

G. Moss. 8/5/25.

Lá Breithe V. Diff. Climb the seaward face of the pointed buttress 15m N of the conical slabs.

G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25