Fanore
Introduction
A long low limestone cliff ranging in height from 3m to 14m. It is about 600m above and behind St Patrick's Church/Fanore National School. Park at Murrough Bridge, there are a few spaces on the grassy verge of the Khyber Pass road. Walk up the road towards the Pass for 200m and there is a stile on the right hand side, climb over this and head up the rocky hillside until you spot the escarpment line. Alternately there are a few parking spots at the national school, walk up the small dirt road parallel to the coast road for 150m (past houses on the left) and cut up through the fields.
The first climbs are on the far left (as you face the cliff) and have a north westerly aspect to them. They run from right to left.
ICEBURGER * (1) 14m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.
Climb steeply to the platform, climb the crack in the laid back slab and move right to finish.
CHOCK A LOT * (2) 14m S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.
Start left and just lower down from the rock platform. Climb the cracked wall and finish up the right trending wide crsck, as the names suggests hexes are handy.
SPRINKLES (3) 10m VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.
Start just left of CHOCK and climb the narrower cracks directly to the top.
I SCREAM (4) 10m VS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.
Start 5m left of SPRINKLES at an arete, climb the wall left of the arete to a platform, finish up the steep wide crack above (crux).
COHEN (5) 10m S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.
Start left of SCREAM and climb the left side of the buttress to a small ledge, climb up the steep cracked wall on your right which is left of the upper arete.
200m to the Right/South there is another steep buttress, routes are now left to right.
CALLING DAWN 12m Diff
Ciara Wall, Aodhán Gallagher, 26/02/24.
Traverse right up the ramp. Pleasant climbing.
An Luascadh Mór VS 4b
Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.
Start 3m left of ELF ON A SHELF at a steep left facing crack/groove and climb to a slab, traverse rightwards along the slab and finish up ELF ON A SHELF.
ELF ON A SHELF VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/2/2024.
Climb the easiest line left of the steep section.
Cathair Bheannach S
Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.
The crack to the right of Elf.
RODEO DRIVE S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.
Climb the left facing corner (wide crack) to the ledge and finish up the wall on the left.
PET SOUNDS VS 5a
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.
Climb the shallow steep left facing corner (finger crack) to the ledge and finish up the cracked head wall on the right.
100m to the right/South there is the main buttress.
VENTURA HIGHWAY D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21/4/2024.
Climb the left side of the ridge/arete.
SLACK TIDE 10m VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.
Climbs the left facing corner on the left of the overhangs.
COME TO THE COAST VS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.
In the bay between the overhangs climb up between two protruding blocks to steeply gain a shelf, climb the cracked wall above and to the left. The hanging block marked X appears to be stable but is bordered by fresh air on four sides which doesn't inspire structural confidence therefore don't touch it.
BIKINI LINE VS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.
Climb the leftward slanting wide crack to a ledge finish directly up the vertical wall above.
BAYWATCH 10m S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.
Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.
THE HOFF 10m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.
Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.
THE WALRUS 10m VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/4/2023.
Takes the left hand crack line in the next bay.
BEACH BUM * 10m VS 5a
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.
Takes the right hand crack line in the bay, looks laid back and easy going from a distance but it turns out to be tougher than it looks.
CRUISE LINER 10m VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.
Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.
The next climbing area of interest is about 400m further Right/South.
HIGHER EDUCATION HS 4b
Barry Watts, unseconded 19th July 2024.
Climb the wall and upper crack on the left hand side of the buttress.
