Coreen More
Location
This crag is located in the Wild Nephin National Park, on the Northern end of Coreen More ridge,
F956 079.
From Newport, take the N59 to Mulranny/Achill. Shortly after leaving the town, turn right to the
L1402 to Furnace. Continue for approximately 12 km, and then turn left to the Broghan Carroll
Bothy/Letterkeen Trailhead. Park there. Follow the marks for the Western Way North on the forestry
road. Follow the road for approximately 40 minutes. Then, take the trail into the col between Coreen
More and Coreen Beg. Walk past the highest point on the trail, and the crag will become visible from
the path on the left. Cut through the bog to the crag.
Although the crag is situated almost right in the middle of the Letterkeen Loop/Bothy Loop, the
western side of Coreen More is boggy and more difficult, approaching it from that side is not
advised.
Character
It is a short, 9m crag perfect for learning leading trad. Routes vary from Diff to HS, varied protection
is required, thus it is a perfect learning ground. The rock above provides some protection for
anchors, however, cams or tricams are necessary. As these types of protection tend to walk,
constant supervision is required. Hence, the crag is not suitable for bottom roping.
Routes described left to right
1. Cheap Flights, HS, J.Gruszczyk, C. Murray, 7.09.24
Start just right from the corner, climb the overhang to the corner between the overhanging
rock. Scramble carefully on the grass to reach the anchor point.
2. Yekaterina Direct, Diff., A. Souček, J. Gruszczyk, 9.03.24
Start on good holds directly below the corner between the overhanging rock and the slab.
Then, climb the corner. Excellent protection.
3. Balconi, V.Diff., J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 16.09.24
Start on good holds 1m right from Yekaterina Direct, climb straight up.
4. Pootfath, V.Diff., J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 16.09.24
The line directly in the middle of the slab. Excellent climbing on good holds, and much easier
than it looks, but the first good piece of protection is half way up.
5. Knees Up Mother Brown, V.Diff., I. Hicks, J. Gruszczyk, 16.09.24
Climb 1m right from Pootfath.
6. Deception, Severe, C. Murray, J. Gruszczyk, 7.09.24
Bouldery, risky start. Start on the arete and veer slightly left when you reach mid-height.
