Clogherhead

CLOGHERHEAD (Ceann Chlochair) Co. LOUTH.

An interim guide. All gradings should be regarded as provisional. Cams are the best option for protection on many of the climbs. Some of the route names are provisional and may change.

This aptly-named headland is owned and managed by Louth County Council as a designated SAC and a local amenity. On this short stretch of coastline there is one sizable buttress and several smaller ones, all just a short stroll from the car park, along a well-worn path. There may be options for bouldering, too. It’s a very pleasant spot, getting a lot of sunshine, with splendid views of the Cooley and Mourne mountains further north.

The rock is greywacke, providing good friction when dry, but greasy when wet. E facing, it is sheltered from most winds, but should be avoided when there are strong E or S/E winds, due to high splash zones.

APPROACH.        

From the main street in Clogherhead village take the road signposted for Port Oriel Harbour and park at the top of the large public car park directly above the Harbour.  Cross the stile in the wall and drop down to cross the wooden stile at the foot of the fence to join the grassy path. Continue along it, moving parallel to the coast, until you come to a fence (5 minutes).

NORTH BUTTRESS.           

This is located about 20 m before the fence, below the foot of an earthen bank running down the hillside, and is reached by scrambling back N from near the bottom of the fence, to the foot of the buttress.  Low to half tide only.  (The slab to the R of the buttress is peppered with holds, providing pleasant scrambling), All climbs are described from R to L, facing the rock. All climbs start at sea level, best at low to middle tide.

Winchy, winchy Spider. VS4c

The R hand rib is the broadest one. From the top of the rib cross a gap and climb the short head-wall near the R edge.  Belay well back.   S.Daly. G.Moss. 23/6/25

No Flies on Me. HS4b

The rib just L of above is the shortest one. From the top of the rib step across R and move up over a gap to climb the short head-wall near its centre.

S.Daly, G.Moss 23/6/25

Babóg na Bealtaine. V.D.

There are two shallow chimneys on the buttress. This climb follows the R-hand one.

G. Moss 15/05/25

Walk into my parlour. VS4c.

The rib immediately L of BnaB.     

S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25.

Web of Intrigue. HVS5a.

The L-hand rib.

S. Daly, G.Moss 18/6/25

THE MAIN BUTTRESS, R-hand side.                                             

Descend via the grassy slope and rocks on the L (facing out) or, more easily, abseil. It is possible to scramble down from the bottom of the fence and traverse around to the foot of the R-hand side of the buttress but the lower rocks can be greasy after a high tide and in such case an abseil approach is preferable (go through a gap in the fence at the warning sign and follow a narrow path down to locate a suitable abseil point).  

Auld Lang Syne.  V. Diff.

The obvious crack on the R edge of the buttress. Climb the crack and move steeply up  L, on biscuit coloured rock, at the top

C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24.                     

Ring in the New. Severe.

The shallow corner immediately L of above. Spaced protection.

C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24.

No country for old men. HVS5a.

3m L of Ring in the New. A steep start leads to sustained climbing.

S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25.

Fiacail Forais V. Diff.

Start 2m further L below and L of an obvious hanging rock tooth 3 meters above. Climb to a thread anchor around a flat block.

G. Moss 19/3/25.

Lú Lámh Fháda. V.Diff

Start just L of Fiacail Forais below the L edge. Follow the edge to a thread anchor around a flat block.

G. Moss 19/3/25.

Habemus Papam. Severe

Start at the bottom R of the deep dark recess just L of LLF. Climb the narrow ramp on the R side of the recess, difficulties increasing with height.

G. Moss 8/5/25.   

Dubh Dorcha V. Diff.

Start immediately L of HP. Climb straight up to a block belay.

G. Moss 18/4/25.

Tir na nÓg HVS5a

Start at the bottom L of the dark recess. Move up a short subsidiary slab until it is possible to pull across L to gain the bottom of the steep, narrow slab. Follow this, with interest, to the top.

S. Daly, G. Moss. 23/6/25.

last couple of moves.    Most likely climbed before. First recorded ascent G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25.    (Sile eyed up the thin, central crack but an incoming tide foiled any attempt.)  

Fumata Bianca.  V. Diff.

Climb the shallow corner between the two conical slabs.     

G. Moss. 8/5/25.

Lá Breithe V. Diff. Climb the seaward face of the pointed buttress 15m N of the conical slabs.

G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25