Difference between revisions of "Oysterhaven"
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'''Oysterhaven''' (near Kinsale)<br> | '''Oysterhaven''' (near Kinsale)<br> | ||
| − | Approaching the area from Carrigaline, go through Nohoval and take the first turn on the L, following a cul-de-sac which leads, after two miles, to a farmhouse. There is a track from the farmhouse to the cliff. The climbs are located where the track meets the cliff, and are close together. Easy descent (leaving the climbs on the R) to a rocky platform. | + | Approaching the area from Carrigaline, go through Nohoval and take the first turn on the L, following a cul-de-sac which leads, after two miles, to a farmhouse. There is a track from the farmhouse to the cliff. The climbs are located where the track meets the cliff, and are close together. Easy descent (leaving the climbs on the R) to a rocky platform. |
| − | From this platform R to L: | + | |
| − | '''Corner''' 30ft. Diff.<br> | + | From this platform R to L: |
| − | There is a tricky move on small holds at the start, the rest is easy. | + | |
| − | + | '''1. Corner''' 30ft. Diff.<br> | |
| − | '''Foam Chimney''' 45ft. V. Diff.<br> | + | ''P. Long, W. Gregor. March 1978.''<br> |
| − | Easy climbing for 30 ft., leading to a little ledge. Above this the chimney is vertical, with small holds. The crux is getting off the ledge. A little ledge on the R wall may be used to step across the chimney. Good protection.<br> | + | There is a tricky move on small holds at the start, the rest is easy. |
| − | + | ||
| − | '' | + | '''2. Foam Chimney''' 45ft. V. Diff.<br> |
| − | A narrow deep chimney for about 25ft. leads onto an open area for about 10ft. to a ledge. The crux is getting off this ledge for the next 10 ft.(vertical). Steep to the top. Going up the R wall is easier near the top. Poor protection | + | ''C. O'Leary, G. O'Regan. March 1978.''<br> |
| − | + | Easy climbing for 30 ft., leading to a little ledge. Above this the chimney is vertical, with small holds. The crux is getting off the ledge. A little ledge on the R wall may be used to step across the chimney. Good protection. | |
| + | |||
| + | '''3. Deep Chimney''' 55ft. S.<br> | ||
| + | ''G. O'Regan, C. O'Leary March 1978.''<br> | ||
| + | A narrow deep chimney for about 25ft. leads onto an open area for about 10ft. to a ledge. The crux is getting off this ledge for the next 10 ft.(vertical). Steep to the top. Going up the R wall is easier near the top. Poor protection. | ||
And here is the guidebook: | And here is the guidebook: | ||
Revision as of 22:25, 27 March 2021
This information is taken from New Climbs 1978.
Oysterhaven (near Kinsale)
Approaching the area from Carrigaline, go through Nohoval and take the first turn on the L, following a cul-de-sac which leads, after two miles, to a farmhouse. There is a track from the farmhouse to the cliff. The climbs are located where the track meets the cliff, and are close together. Easy descent (leaving the climbs on the R) to a rocky platform.
From this platform R to L:
1. Corner 30ft. Diff.
P. Long, W. Gregor. March 1978.
There is a tricky move on small holds at the start, the rest is easy.
2. Foam Chimney 45ft. V. Diff.
C. O'Leary, G. O'Regan. March 1978.
Easy climbing for 30 ft., leading to a little ledge. Above this the chimney is vertical, with small holds. The crux is getting off the ledge. A little ledge on the R wall may be used to step across the chimney. Good protection.
3. Deep Chimney 55ft. S.
G. O'Regan, C. O'Leary March 1978.
A narrow deep chimney for about 25ft. leads onto an open area for about 10ft. to a ledge. The crux is getting off this ledge for the next 10 ft.(vertical). Steep to the top. Going up the R wall is easier near the top. Poor protection.
And here is the guidebook:
