Difference between revisions of "Fanore"

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===Introduction===
 
===Introduction===
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A long low limestone cliff ranging in height from 3m to 10m. It is about 600m above and behind St Patrick's Church in Fanore. Park at Murrough Bridge, there are a few spaces on the grassy verge of the Khyber Pass road. Walk up the road towards the Pass for 200m and there is a stile on the right hand side, climb over this and head up the rocky hillside until you spot the escarpment line.
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A long low limestone cliff ranging in height from 3m to 14m. It is about 600m above and behind St Patrick's Church/Fanore National School. Park at Murrough Bridge, there are a few spaces on the grassy verge of the Khyber Pass road. Walk up the road towards the Pass for 200m and there is a stile on the right hand side, climb over this and head up the rocky hillside until you spot the escarpment line. Alternately for the South most climbs there are a few parking spots at the national school however on school days it's best to park in the public beach car park and cut up through the fields.
 
[[File:Fanore layout.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]
 
[[File:Fanore layout.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]
 
<br />
 
<br />
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Start left of '''SCREAM''' and climb the left side of the buttress to a small ledge, climb up the steep cracked wall on your right which is left of the upper arete.
 
Start left of '''SCREAM''' and climb the left side of the buttress to a small ledge, climb up the steep cracked wall on your right which is left of the upper arete.
  
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200m to the right/South there is another steep buttress, routes are now '''left to right'''.
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200m to the Right/South there is another steep buttress, routes are now '''left to right'''.
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[[File:Fanore L.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
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[[File:Calling Dawn fanore .jpg|thumb|600x600px|Calling Dawn|alt=|center]]
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'''CALLING DAWN''' 12m Diff
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''Ciara Wall, Aodhán Gallagher, 26/02/24.''
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Traverse right up the ramp. Pleasant climbing.
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 +
20m further Right/South there is
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[[File:ES.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
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'''An Luascadh Mór''' VS 4b
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''Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.''
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Start 3m left of '''ELF ON A SHELF''' at a steep left facing crack/groove and climb to a slab, traverse rightwards along the slab  and finish up '''ELF ON A SHELF.'''
  
 
'''ELF ON A SHELF''' VD
 
'''ELF ON A SHELF''' VD
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Climb the easiest line left of the steep section.
 
Climb the easiest line left of the steep section.
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'''Cathair Bheannach''' S
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''Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.''
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The crack to the right of Elf.
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[[File:Fanore L.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
  
 
'''RODEO DRIVE''' S
 
'''RODEO DRIVE''' S
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Climb the shallow steep left facing corner (finger crack) to the ledge and finish up the cracked head wall on the right.
 
Climb the shallow steep left facing corner (finger crack) to the ledge and finish up the cracked head wall on the right.
  
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100m to the right/South there is the main buttress.
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100m to the Right/South there is the main buttress.
 
[[File:VH.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
 
[[File:VH.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
 
'''VENTURA HIGHWAY''' D
 
'''VENTURA HIGHWAY''' D
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''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''             
 
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''             
  
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In the bay between the overhangs climb up between two protruding blocks to steeply gain a shelf, climb the cracked wall above and to the left. The hanging block marked X appears to be stable but is bordered by fresh air on four sides which doesn't inspire structural confidence therefore don't touch it.             
+
In the bay between the overhangs climb up between two protruding blocks to steeply gain a shelf, climb the cracked wall above and to the left. The hanging block further right and marked X appears to be stable but is bordered by fresh air on four sides which doesn't inspire structural confidence therefore don't touch it.             
  
 
'''BIKINI LINE''' VS 4c             
 
'''BIKINI LINE''' VS 4c             
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Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.
 
Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.
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[[File:FANORE Rhs.jpg|center|thumb|800x800px]]
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'''WALRUS''' 10m VD
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'''THE WALRUS''' 10m S
  
 
''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/4/2023.''
 
''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/4/2023.''
  
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Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.                                                                            
+
Takes the left hand groove line in the next bay, veer right at the grassy topped bulge, finish leftwards up the easier wide crack/corner.                                                              
  
 
'''BEACH BUM''' * 10m VS 5a  
 
'''BEACH BUM''' * 10m VS 5a  
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Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.
 
Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.
 +
 +
The next climbing area of interest is about 500m further Right/South on a steep prow of rock.
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[[File:F8.JPG|center|thumb|800x800px]]
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'''BEACH LOUNGER''' S
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''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''
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Start 1m left of the steep blank corner at a short vertical crack, climb steeply up the crack and move diagonally leftwards to the wider crack, climb onto the laid back slab and finish rightwards up the slab.
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'''STRAIT TO GLORY''' HVS 5a/5b
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'' Marcin Ostasz Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''
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On the far right of the prow there is a wide crack at ground level below a higher left facing corner, climb the wide crack to the ledge and continue steeply up the corner moving slightly right to gain the flat finishing holds. 
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'''HORMUZ CRISIS''' VD
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''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''
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Start at the wide vertical crack 4m right of '''STRAIT TO GLORY''', climb up this for 1m and traverse leftwards up the leftward trending ramp/groove to the top.
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'''CAUGHT BY THE TIDE''' S
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''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''
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Start at the wide vertical crack 4m right of '''STRAIT TO GLORY''', climb up this for 4m and traverse leftwards to a foot ledge before heading straight up the cracked slab above.
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[[File:ST.JPG|center|thumb|900x900px]]
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'''NOT SO STRAIT''' VD
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'' Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''
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Start at the wide vertical crack 1m right of '''CAUGHT BY THE TIDE''', climb up this for 2m before heading rightwards up the cracked slab above.
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'''SIRENS TAIL''' VS
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'' Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''
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Starts easy enough but gets more involved near the top... 10m right of '''NOT SO STRAIT''' there is a steep cracked wall, start at the rib just right of a vertical crack, climb the rib for 3m and move leftwards on horizontal ledges (to cross the vertical crack) and finish up a thin finger crack in the smooth wall.
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The next climbing area of interest is about 150m further Right/South.
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[[File:HE.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]'''HIGHER EDUCATION''' HS 4b
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''Barry Watts, unseconded 19/7/2024.''
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Climb the wall and upper crack on the left hand side of the buttress.

Latest revision as of 17:47, 29 April 2026

Introduction

A long low limestone cliff ranging in height from 3m to 14m. It is about 600m above and behind St Patrick's Church/Fanore National School. Park at Murrough Bridge, there are a few spaces on the grassy verge of the Khyber Pass road. Walk up the road towards the Pass for 200m and there is a stile on the right hand side, climb over this and head up the rocky hillside until you spot the escarpment line. Alternately for the South most climbs there are a few parking spots at the national school however on school days it's best to park in the public beach car park and cut up through the fields.

Fanore layout.jpg


Fanore.jpg

The first climbs are on the far left (as you face the cliff) and have a north westerly aspect to them. They run from right to left.

Ice cream parlour.jpg

ICEBURGER * (1) 14m HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Climb steeply to the platform, climb the crack in the laid back slab and move right to finish.

CHOCK A LOT * (2) 14m S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start left and just lower down from the rock platform. Climb the cracked wall and finish up the right trending wide crsck, as the names suggests hexes are handy.

SPRINKLES (3) 10m VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start just left of CHOCK and climb the narrower cracks directly to the top.

I SCREAM (4) 10m VS 4c

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start 5m left of SPRINKLES at an arete, climb the wall left of the arete to a platform, finish up the steep wide crack above (crux).

COHEN (5) 10m S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start left of SCREAM and climb the left side of the buttress to a small ledge, climb up the steep cracked wall on your right which is left of the upper arete.

200m to the Right/South there is another steep buttress, routes are now left to right.

Calling Dawn

CALLING DAWN 12m Diff

Ciara Wall, Aodhán Gallagher, 26/02/24.

Traverse right up the ramp. Pleasant climbing.

20m further Right/South there is

ES.jpg

An Luascadh Mór VS 4b

Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.

Start 3m left of ELF ON A SHELF at a steep left facing crack/groove and climb to a slab, traverse rightwards along the slab and finish up ELF ON A SHELF.

ELF ON A SHELF VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/2/2024.

Climb the easiest line left of the steep section.

Cathair Bheannach S

Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.

The crack to the right of Elf.

Fanore L.jpg

RODEO DRIVE S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.

Climb the left facing corner (wide crack) to the ledge and finish up the wall on the left.

PET SOUNDS VS 5a

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.

Climb the shallow steep left facing corner (finger crack) to the ledge and finish up the cracked head wall on the right.

100m to the Right/South there is the main buttress.

VH.jpg

VENTURA HIGHWAY D

Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21/4/2024.

Climb the left side of the ridge/arete.

Fanore main crag Ap 24.jpg

SLACK TIDE 10m VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.

Climbs the left facing corner on the left of the overhangs.

COME TO THE COAST VS 4c

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.

In the bay between the overhangs climb up between two protruding blocks to steeply gain a shelf, climb the cracked wall above and to the left. The hanging block further right and marked X appears to be stable but is bordered by fresh air on four sides which doesn't inspire structural confidence therefore don't touch it.

BIKINI LINE VS 4c

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Climb the leftward slanting wide crack to a ledge finish directly up the vertical wall above.

BAYWATCH 10m S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.

THE HOFF 10m HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.

FANORE Rhs.jpg

THE WALRUS 10m S

Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/4/2023.

Takes the left hand groove line in the next bay, veer right at the grassy topped bulge, finish leftwards up the easier wide crack/corner.

BEACH BUM * 10m VS 5a

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay, looks laid back and easy going from a distance but it turns out to be tougher than it looks.

Liner.jpg

CRUISE LINER 10m VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.

Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.

The next climbing area of interest is about 500m further Right/South on a steep prow of rock.

F8.JPG

BEACH LOUNGER S

Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.

Start 1m left of the steep blank corner at a short vertical crack, climb steeply up the crack and move diagonally leftwards to the wider crack, climb onto the laid back slab and finish rightwards up the slab.

STRAIT TO GLORY HVS 5a/5b

Marcin Ostasz Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.

On the far right of the prow there is a wide crack at ground level below a higher left facing corner, climb the wide crack to the ledge and continue steeply up the corner moving slightly right to gain the flat finishing holds.

HORMUZ CRISIS VD

Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.

Start at the wide vertical crack 4m right of STRAIT TO GLORY, climb up this for 1m and traverse leftwards up the leftward trending ramp/groove to the top.

CAUGHT BY THE TIDE S

Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.

Start at the wide vertical crack 4m right of STRAIT TO GLORY, climb up this for 4m and traverse leftwards to a foot ledge before heading straight up the cracked slab above.

ST.JPG

NOT SO STRAIT VD

Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.

Start at the wide vertical crack 1m right of CAUGHT BY THE TIDE, climb up this for 2m before heading rightwards up the cracked slab above.

SIRENS TAIL VS

Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.

Starts easy enough but gets more involved near the top... 10m right of NOT SO STRAIT there is a steep cracked wall, start at the rib just right of a vertical crack, climb the rib for 3m and move leftwards on horizontal ledges (to cross the vertical crack) and finish up a thin finger crack in the smooth wall.

The next climbing area of interest is about 150m further Right/South.

HE.jpg

HIGHER EDUCATION HS 4b

Barry Watts, unseconded 19/7/2024.

Climb the wall and upper crack on the left hand side of the buttress.

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