Difference between revisions of "Ballynahown"
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[[File:IMG 0247.JPG|600px|IMG 0247.JPG]] | [[File:IMG 0247.JPG|600px|IMG 0247.JPG]] | ||
[[File:Bhown LHS.jpg|center|thumb|491x491px|alt=]] | [[File:Bhown LHS.jpg|center|thumb|491x491px|alt=]] | ||
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| + | '''CLUB MED''' VD | ||
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| + | ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 11th August 2022.'' | ||
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| + | Start 4m left of '''AN CATHACH''' on a ledge, climb the fist crack to a higher ledge, traverse left across broken ground to the pinnacle, climb the cracked wall at the back of the pinnacle to the top. | ||
'''AN CATHACH''' 15m HVS 5b **<br />''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011.<br />''This route takes the prominent corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the corner crack and small holds on the left wall to get established. Follow the corner and horizontal breaks on the left wall. A series of bridging moves up the steep corner and a difficult move near the top get you to the top. Excellent belay seat 1m from the top. (An Cathach was a legendary monster who inhabited Scattery island and terrorised people!!!!!!!) | '''AN CATHACH''' 15m HVS 5b **<br />''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011.<br />''This route takes the prominent corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the corner crack and small holds on the left wall to get established. Follow the corner and horizontal breaks on the left wall. A series of bridging moves up the steep corner and a difficult move near the top get you to the top. Excellent belay seat 1m from the top. (An Cathach was a legendary monster who inhabited Scattery island and terrorised people!!!!!!!) | ||
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'''CRANNOG''' HS 4b<br />''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011.<br />''This great little route starts under the large overhang at the right hand end of the crag. Layback left up the ramp. Then climb up to the right hand side of the big roof. Using holds on the right of the roof pull through to gain the top. | '''CRANNOG''' HS 4b<br />''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011.<br />''This great little route starts under the large overhang at the right hand end of the crag. Layback left up the ramp. Then climb up to the right hand side of the big roof. Using holds on the right of the roof pull through to gain the top. | ||
[[File:Clare rocket.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]] | [[File:Clare rocket.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]] | ||
| − | <br /> | + | '''CLARE ROCKET''' VS 4c |
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| + | ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 11th August 2022.'' | ||
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| + | This climb takes the blunt arete 3m right of '''CRANNOG'''. Climb the left hand side (steeply at first) and traverse right at the bulge to finish up the cracked wall above. | ||
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| + | '''DOWN IN THE BOOM DOCKS''' S | ||
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| + | ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 11th August 2022.'' | ||
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| + | Start at the left facing corner in the right hand side of the recess right of '''CLARE ROCKET'''. Climb to the overhang, traverse left on the ledge below the overhang (awkward), move right to climb the wide crack above the overhang.<br /> | ||
Revision as of 17:46, 15 August 2022
Ballynahown
A high clean limestone cliff 300m ESE of Leaba na hAon Bhó Crag of Oughtdarra. Located on commonage.
Peregrines are known to have nested here in the past, best to avoid it until August.
CLUB MED VD
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 11th August 2022.
Start 4m left of AN CATHACH on a ledge, climb the fist crack to a higher ledge, traverse left across broken ground to the pinnacle, climb the cracked wall at the back of the pinnacle to the top.
AN CATHACH 15m HVS 5b **
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011.
This route takes the prominent corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the corner crack and small holds on the left wall to get established. Follow the corner and horizontal breaks on the left wall. A series of bridging moves up the steep corner and a difficult move near the top get you to the top. Excellent belay seat 1m from the top. (An Cathach was a legendary monster who inhabited Scattery island and terrorised people!!!!!!!)
AN TEACH SOLAS 14m HVS 5a
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011.
This route starts at a steep wide crack in the middle of the crag.
Bridge up the corner, using hand jams in the crack, to a ledge above the wide crack. Continue through easier horizontal breaks above.
CRANNOG HS 4b
Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011.
This great little route starts under the large overhang at the right hand end of the crag. Layback left up the ramp. Then climb up to the right hand side of the big roof. Using holds on the right of the roof pull through to gain the top.
CLARE ROCKET VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 11th August 2022.
This climb takes the blunt arete 3m right of CRANNOG. Climb the left hand side (steeply at first) and traverse right at the bulge to finish up the cracked wall above.
DOWN IN THE BOOM DOCKS S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 11th August 2022.
Start at the left facing corner in the right hand side of the recess right of CLARE ROCKET. Climb to the overhang, traverse left on the ledge below the overhang (awkward), move right to climb the wide crack above the overhang.
