Difference between revisions of "Lamb's Head"
m |
|||
| (4 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown) | |||
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
| − | To reach Lamb's Head you should take the Ring of Kerry road from either Sneem or Waterville to Caherdaniel. About 1km south of Caherdaniel turn west onto L7542 | + | To reach Lamb's Head you should take the Ring of Kerry road from either Sneem or Waterville to Caherdaniel. About 1km south of Caherdaniel turn west onto L7542 at the bottlebank. At the end of the road after 5km END OF WHICH ROAD THERE ARE 2 strike across the peninsula towards the lookout post, at 105m, map reference 526563. If you want to camp ask for permission at one of the houses near the end of the road. Park considerately. Climbs are found north west of the Head. |
| + | |||
| + | The rock is part of the Valentia slate formation | ||
====Cuas Teampal==== | ====Cuas Teampal==== | ||
| Line 11: | Line 13: | ||
From the bottom of the black volcanic slabs at the first point it is possible to cross without wet feet follow a prominent crack leftwards to a ledge (stance in the triangle). Traverse right 3m and ascend the slab split by small horizontal crack (delicate). From the small ledge at the corner escape around the overhang to the top. | From the bottom of the black volcanic slabs at the first point it is possible to cross without wet feet follow a prominent crack leftwards to a ledge (stance in the triangle). Traverse right 3m and ascend the slab split by small horizontal crack (delicate). From the small ledge at the corner escape around the overhang to the top. | ||
| − | '''Innominate 45m V.S'''.<br>''C.Rice, M. Harris. June | + | '''Innominate 45m V.S'''.<br>''C.Rice, M. Harris. June 1972''<br> |
Follow "Tim's Refusal" to stance. Surmount the vertical rib on the left of the stance, Traverse left until crack is gained and climb the crack to the top. | Follow "Tim's Refusal" to stance. Surmount the vertical rib on the left of the stance, Traverse left until crack is gained and climb the crack to the top. | ||
====Cuas Sraib an Capall==== | ====Cuas Sraib an Capall==== | ||
This is the next zawn. No Climbs | This is the next zawn. No Climbs | ||
| − | ==== Cuas an Tabac ==== | + | ====Cuas an Tabac==== |
| + | |||
| + | On the Kenmare side of the zawn is a steep cliff Just above water level. Here is | ||
| + | |||
| + | '''Weetabix 21m V.Diff'''<br>''J Lynam, D. Mitchell, B. Kinsella. June 1972''<br>climb down an easy slab at the south end of the cliff and walk north beneath a steep wall. Just beyond the wall is a steep narrow slab. Start at its foot and climb the slab for about 5m and then move left onto a parallel narrow slab. Continue up using holds on the left edge to reach easier ground | ||
<br /> | <br /> | ||
Revision as of 18:05, 18 April 2024
To reach Lamb's Head you should take the Ring of Kerry road from either Sneem or Waterville to Caherdaniel. About 1km south of Caherdaniel turn west onto L7542 at the bottlebank. At the end of the road after 5km END OF WHICH ROAD THERE ARE 2 strike across the peninsula towards the lookout post, at 105m, map reference 526563. If you want to camp ask for permission at one of the houses near the end of the road. Park considerately. Climbs are found north west of the Head.
The rock is part of the Valentia slate formation
Cuas Teampal
Pippin 27m V.Diff
S. & M. Harris, June 1971
10m right of the Boundary Wall of the roof over the face opposite the black volcanic cracks. Follow the left hand cracks up three tiers of wall
Merry 30m Diff
G. Moyces, S. Harris, June 1972
2m left of Pippin. A short semicircular crack is climbed, then scramble until an easy traverse is reached on left and then finish up the centre of the slab
Tim's refusal 45m S
S. & M. Harris, June 1971
From the bottom of the black volcanic slabs at the first point it is possible to cross without wet feet follow a prominent crack leftwards to a ledge (stance in the triangle). Traverse right 3m and ascend the slab split by small horizontal crack (delicate). From the small ledge at the corner escape around the overhang to the top.
Innominate 45m V.S.
C.Rice, M. Harris. June 1972
Follow "Tim's Refusal" to stance. Surmount the vertical rib on the left of the stance, Traverse left until crack is gained and climb the crack to the top.
Cuas Sraib an Capall
This is the next zawn. No Climbs
Cuas an Tabac
On the Kenmare side of the zawn is a steep cliff Just above water level. Here is
Weetabix 21m V.Diff
J Lynam, D. Mitchell, B. Kinsella. June 1972
climb down an easy slab at the south end of the cliff and walk north beneath a steep wall. Just beyond the wall is a steep narrow slab. Start at its foot and climb the slab for about 5m and then move left onto a parallel narrow slab. Continue up using holds on the left edge to reach easier ground
