The Bishop - Dunran

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Printed guidebook available here

This pinnacle is in Dunran Glen, south of Newtown Mount Kennedy at map reference O 273 028.

Follow the old main road south from Newtownmountkennedy for 2½km to where it levels before a bridge over the new road. Opposite some cottages on the left a road branches right (O 276 032). Follow this road to a gate on the right into a Coillte-owned wood. The gate is usually closed but one can step over the wall beside it. Follow the forest road which bears left into a narrow, steep-sided, wooded valley. After a 5 - 10 minutes The Bishop comes into sight high on the left.

In the 1770's the landowner diverted streams to form a lake below the Bishop's Rock. This was a renowned beauty spot and resting place for the traveler. Now only overgrown, muddy pools remain.

Ravens or peregrines may nest here and if so avoid.

G page 294 bishop.jpg Download topo of the crag at The Bishop

Looking from below the most obvious feature is the crack running up the right-hand side which is the line of The Crozier.

1 SLEEPY HOLLOW     27m     VD
Start at the foot of the rib on the left edge of the face. Follow this edge, over a bulge and finish either straight up from the neck or around the right cheek (harder). The climbing is interesting but the hillside is never far away.
B. Walker, D. Mitchell, 26/8/1972.

2 THE ACTRESS     27m    E2    (5c)
Climb the slightly groovy wall to the overhang and up this to the top.
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan.

3 THE PULPIT*     25m    VS    (4c)
Climb the wall just left of the block.
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan.

4 DIET OF WORMS*    25m    E1    (5b)
Climb the wall right of the block.
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan.

5 SALVATION*     25m    E1    (5b)
Climb the wall direct.
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan.

6 PURGATORY     30m     S    (4a) Start on a ledge below the crack
1. 27m Climb up to the foot of the crack and then traverse left along the ledge. Go up right of the rib for about 5m until it is possible to move left onto the crest of the rib. Continue up flaky slabs left of the rib and up to the overhang. Swing left over the shoulder and up broken rock.
2. 3m To the top as for Sleepy Hollow.
Old IMC, probably 1942

7 THE CROZIER*     27m     HS    (4b)
1. 24m Starting as for Purgatory climb up the short wall into the foot of the crack. Climb this, mainly by bridging and with the aid of handholds in the crack. Turn the small overhang easily on the right and continue up flakes over the shoulder to the neck.
2. 3m To the top as for Sleepy Hollow.
R. Lynam, J. Lynam, 26/8/1972.

8 LUTHER     25m    VS    (4b)
Climb the rib.
C. Torrans

9 THE CONFESSIONAL     10m     VS    (4b)
Start as for Purgatory. Pull up right into the foot of the diedre. Climb mainly on small holds on the right wall to the top. Very sustained climbing.
I. Masterson, J. Lynam, 19/6/1972.

Lower down is a smaller pinnacle, The Deacon. This has been climbed up the face, the chimneys and either edge. These variations are Difficult and were climbed by the Old I.M.C. in 1942.

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="53.063584" lon="-6.101457" zoom="17"> 53.062709, -6.101421 The Bishop (approximate position) </googlemap>