Tangincartoor

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Sector B

Please Note: The Crags at Tangincartoor, are on Private Land, Climbers are requested not to climb without permission of landowners.

The Irish name for Tangincartoor is Teanga an Chartúir

Marcin Ostzas and myself did some climbs here in July 2009. Looking up from the valley there are 3 climbable looking sections. The centre one B appears to be the cleanest and the photos below show some routes on it. It is about 15-17m high at the highest point and slabby granite with good protection, known to geologists as the Corvock Granite. Friction is excellent.

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Tangincartoor Section B (not as slabby as it looks)

Maneater is between 4 and 5 on Sector B

Maneater 20m VS 4b Joe Lyons, Dermot Wall, 2002 The wide chimney on the right of the crag is reached by climbing easily up the blocks at its base. Bridge up between the walls, keeping out to pass the overhang at the top.

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Tangincartoor Section B showing angle of rock

Sector C

To the right of Sector B there is another clean piece of rock, probably 15-20m high. The rock here is more brittle and protection poor. We did one route here

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Sector C

Sector D

Further down the hill there is another clean steep area.

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Sector D

Sector A

to the north of sector B a lovely bit of rock is found.

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only one climb has been made known to me in this area, it is at the left of the above photo, starting below a boulder sitting on top in a slanting crack. I believe it was first done by Orla Prendergast. It was definitely done on 18th April 2010, by Theo Mooney, Ka Yuen, 2010.

Nanuk 16m HS 4b

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many new routes are to be done here.

Slumdog Buttress (Far Left) – 9-13m

A small, clean section of rocks with a range of quality, surprisingly good routes. This crag is found to the left of Ivy wall

1 Deception
S/HS (4a) 9m
Start on left of crag, 1m right of Boy Named Sue. Traverse in leftwards on blocks. Into and up corner groove. Tricky move at 2/3m height.
Paddy Gethings 2009

2 Boy Named Sue * VS (4b) 11m
A tricky rising traverse, bold in places. Start at large block below obvious rounded flakes. Up block onto wall following flakes up and left to first ledge. Moving left on ledge, rock-over without hand holds onto sloping ledge (Crux). Move gingerly left on ledge to better protection. Up crack to overlap, traverse left, step across to mantle finish.
Carl Maddox 2009

3 Slumdog Millionaire* VS (4c) 9m
Start at obvious central crack, below undercut. Follow crack up to undercut, straight up crack in overhang to finish.
Paddy Gethings 2009

4 Poker Face* E1 (5b) 13m
Follow Slumdog Millionaire to undercut, traverse right along the undercut. Below roof swing down and right on large jug to foot crack. Traverse right using finger-tip crack (crux) to welcome rest. Up right corner of Swing on a String to finish. Nice climbing.
Carl Maddox 2009

5 Swing on a String V Diff 7m
Obvious corner and blocks on right side of crag. Awkward
Paddy Gethings 2009

Ivy wall – 10-12 metres

A short steep crag to the left of main wall. Offering steep, clean and well protected crack climbing. Characterised by three steep crack lines to left of Ivy, and featuring long horizontal breaks high on the wall.

1 Jammie Dodger* HS (4b) 10m
Danger loose blocks. Take's the obvious left hand crack, through small overlaps, onto recently cleared ledge! Well protected and sustained.
Ben Siddal 2004

2 Street Fighter** VS (5a) 10m
The steep central finger crack. Follow crack on good solid finger locks to excellent holds/ rests in horizontal breaks. Climb/ jam the overhang V-groove (crux) to finish. A short excellent route.
Carl Maddox 2004

3 Jack Flash * HS (4b)10m
Follow third obvious L/R angled crack to wide jamming/ layback crack finish.
Carl Maddox 2004

4 Waitext VDiff12m

Start at beneath right chimney / blocky groove. Up to grass ledge, chimney and ledges to top. Awkward
Carl Maddox Solo. 2002

5 Phoenix Rising *** HVS (5a) 23m
A great climb, start as for Waitex, climb to the highest, horizontal crack. Traverse the high horizontal cracks of Ivy wall.Traverse cracks towards remaining Ivy, crux section just before Ivy was originally aided by pulling on two cams, but after clearing has now been climbed clean. Find hidden foot holds in Ivy and continue sustained traverse across upper wall to finish at the end of crag/ cracks.
Carl Maddox, Maurice J Dixon

Central Crag, Main Wall – 15-20 metres

Routes described left to right

1 Windy Miller Severe (4a) 18m
Start on left side of crag below holly tree. Follow left trending ramp past holly tree to grass/ heather ledge. Follow obvious steepish flared cracks and grooves above (care wobbly block at 2/3 height) to Mantle shelf finish. Good protection.
Carl Maddox 29/08/2004

2 Top of the Tower** VS (4c) 20m
Start at main central crack, 2-3m right of Windy Miller, follow crack to thinner cracks until directly below heather ledge, mantle-shelf rightwards onto clean rock ledge. Traverse left on ledge for 2 meters, until below scooped ledge. Strenuous moves onto ledge, then follow thin groove line passing horizontal cracks near top. (Small cams useful) An excellent and varied route.
Ben Siddal 29/08/2004

3 Camelot ** VS (4c) 18m
Start 1 meter left of Top of the tower climb thin crack straight up to join Top of the Tower, onto large heather ledge. Climb directy up from ledge passing parallel cracks keeping left of Pheonix Nights. Small cams useful. Quality, varied climbing.
March 2012, Clare Wheatley

4 Smile the Fear E1 5b 18m
Start halfway between Top of the tower and Phoenix nights. Move under and right of bulge. Easier climbing to horizontal cracks. From second crack follow tiny crimps over bulge (crux). Move left to last 2m of Pheonix nights.
Carl Maddox, Aug 2014

5 Pheonix Nights ** HS (4b) 17m
Start on right side of crag below small holly tree, which marks line of distinct left trending, seam/ cracks. Climb cracks past holly tree, then rising traverse left for 2-3 meters to ledge, follow central cracks to top. Steep, good holds, well protected, quite hard for the grade.
Carl Maddox 2003

6 Patella Jam * HS (4b) 18m
Start as for Pheonix nights. Climb to the small holly tree where a tricky traverse rightwards, leads to rock and grass sloping ledge below overhang. Trend up and rightwards below overhangs to steep hanging Apex, pull through this (crux)and up through second slot to finish. Interesting climbing.
Rikki Phillips, 2004

High Crag – 8-10 metres

Small slabby crag found just above and left of main wall

1 Great Craic ** HVS (5b) 10m
Takes the obvious crack on left side of crag, good finger jams and foot friction. Short but excellent test piece.
Carl Maddox 2003

2 Tangy Cartoor * HS (4b) 10m
2a Bold start on slab following scoops past flake hold to small ledge. Traverse obvious, left trending cracks to top. Tricky with a good committment to smearing.

2 Surf Mayo * V Diff 10m
Good holds to triple cracks. Make committing moves to finish. High in Grade.
Carl Maddox Solo 2003

3 The Tick Returns Severe (4a) 8m
Nice crack climb. Obvious easy-angled crack on right side of crag. Follow longest, widest hand/finger crack.
Carl Maddox 2004

Bouldering 4 Five Finger Shuffle (5) 8m (Upper Wall) Obvious hard crack. Horizontal traverse 8m.
5 Green Cross (3) 4m (Lower Wall) Obvious off-width crack. (?????) boulder.
6 (5+) 2m in from left edge of wall. Small, slopped holds, tricky for feet. Fell several times.
7 (6a) 3m left of above. Superb crimp climbing. Sloped top. Excellent.

Main Wall – Right vegetated Crag 20m

Very vegetated in parts, new routes require some gardening. The cleaned lines offer very good crack and corner climbing with some Good potential for hard slab climbing

1 Bush Fighting VDiff 20m
Poor protection for grade. Start easy protruding slab. Traverse left past two big dubious blocks until vegetation stalls traverse. Up onto vegetation, aiming for (fai???). Unprotected groove, good holds to top.
Carl Maddox 2004

2 Bag of Bollox Almost Ungradable S / HS (4a/b) 25m
Left side of crag, beneath huge overhanging block. Straight up vegetation under overhang. Pass wobbly silver bark tree, left at overhang and up ‘rock’ to finish. Weird!
Carl Maddox 2004

3. Beautiful Mind HS (4b) 20m
Take the obvious vertical crack and grooves , to the layback arete. Up this to make an awkward pass of the overlap, to giant flakes. Follow flakes taking care with the rock to finish easily.
Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky 2012

4. Clems Route HS / VS (4b) 22m
Cleaned cracks to the left of Beautiful mind

Boulder above vegetated main wall First Boulder Crack 1 (5a) Straight up Crack 2 (5a) Hard traverse up
Second Boulder Crack and Arête (4c) 5m
Walk In Boulder Main overhang (5a) L overhang wall (5c)

Tree Buttress – 30m

1 Tree Trees * HS (4b) 18m
Start left of trees, on flaky blocks. Cross (???) wall (very vegetated) to bulging wall. Hard move up to solid hand holds, topping out on slab to (????) belay below slab R2.
Ben Siddal 2004

2 Thirty Tree and a Third S (4a) 30m
Start between first and second tree, up detached block, move right on ledge to holly tree crack/corner. Up corner onto easy sloping crack. Right again up to slab above.
Carl Maddox 2004

Left variant S (4a) 30m
Start just right of the left hand tree. Up slabby block to arête. Move up and left of arête on excellent holds. Follow right trending foot crack for 6m then left crack. Move easily up slabs to finish. Cams essential.
Carl Maddox 2004

Georgie Porgie * HS (4b) 30m
Good climbing. Start as for Left Variant. Up blunt arête, tackle arête and right wall (small cams) tricky. (????) in a crouched position along crack to foothold just above steep wall (exposed). Up more easily on slabs.
Juraj Georgievsky 2008

Rainbow Wall – 12-20m

A slabby crag, characterised by two obvious wide chimney's on right of crag, which are clearly visible from the road Routes described right to left

1 Geoffrey Diff 14m
Right chimney/ Walls- Various lines at Diff/ V Diff on right side of crag.
C Maddox Solo 2003

2 Gap of Rohan * V Diff 17m
Left chimney, nice climbing
Rikki Phillips, Solo 2004

3 The Seeker ** VS 4c 18m
Takes the thin cracks and grooves just left of Gap of Rohan. Climb direct to cleaned crack and groove, up this to small foot ledges and second crack below vegetation. Move slightly right and summount next ledge (possibly crux) Follow crack to easier ground and top. Quality climbing
Carl Maddox / John Pierce 29/08/08

3 Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly * HS (4b) 20m
Start 1-2m left of The Seeker, up to undercut groove trending slightly left, then directly up lightening cracks in wall, a hard move gains small foot ledges (crux) easier climbing to finish. Good protection at the mid-height crux.
Ben Siddal LP, 2004

Direct Start to Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly, VS4c Carl Maddox
Start left of undercut groove, straight up steep shallow cracks (tricky to protect) to join main crack at half height.

4 Zippy * VDiff 20m
Up obvious L/R crack to large 'scoop'. Traverse slightly left at 5m. Thin crack and smaller scoops to top. Good climbing.
Carl Maddox LP

5 Bungle S (4a) 18m
Start 1-2m left of Zippy. Follow shallow scoops in wall to short steep crack at mid height. Up crack (crux)easier finish.
Carl Maddox 2004

Moving left from Bungle, a vegetated section leads to a distinct red rib right trending

6 Red Rib VD 18m
Follow Rib throughout, Poor protection.
Rikki Philips LP, 2004

Just left of Red Rib is a fairly large overhang, a smaller overhang/ overlap left again gives,

7 George S (4a) 18m
Up to small overhang pull over this and scramble to top.
Carl Maddox, Solo. 2004

Left of George several short lines, with positive holds from Diff-V Diff can be explored at will.


To the right of Sect more brittle and protection poor. we did one route here

Excellence Promised area, Far Right Crags

Continue past small parking bay with gate to far right end of crag section. Park in bay / track. Cross river to green, triangular field.

1 Excellence Promised VS (4c) 15m
Start at left end of crag. (????) Obvious large scoop, climb line just left of overhangs to vegetated corner. Up this, messy to top. (Potential if cleaned)

2 Grasshopper Ridge * VD 40m
A good little climb. Spi??? Up with the odd dubious block. Something a bit different to the main walls.
M Dixon / C Maddox.

or B there is another clean piece of rock, probably 15-20m high. The rock here is