Difference between revisions of "Tangincartoor"

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'''Maneater''' is between 4 and 5 on Sector B
 
'''Maneater''' is between 4 and 5 on Sector B
  
'''Maneater''' 20m VS 4b Joe Lyons, Dermot Wall, 2002 The wide chimney on the right of the crag is reached by climbing easily up the blocks at its base. Bridge up between the walls, keeping out to pass the overhang at the top.
+
'''Maneater''' 20m VS 4b <br>''Joe Lyons, Dermot Wall, 2002'' <br>The wide chimney on the right of the crag is reached by climbing easily up the blocks at its base. Bridge up between the walls, keeping out to pass the overhang at the top.
 +
 
  
 
[[File:Jul 2009 - Tangincartoor 004.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]<br />''Tangincartoor Section B showing angle of rock''
 
[[File:Jul 2009 - Tangincartoor 004.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]<br />''Tangincartoor Section B showing angle of rock''
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[[File:SECTOR a.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]
 
[[File:SECTOR a.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]
  
only one climb has been made known to me in this area, it is at the left of the above photo, starting below a boulder sitting on top in a slanting crack. I believe it was first done by Orla Prendergast. It was definitely done on 18th April 2010, by Theo Mooney, Ka Yuen, 2010.
+
Only one climb has been made known to me in this area, it is at the left of the above photo, starting below a boulder sitting on top in a slanting crack. I believe it was first done by Orla Prendergast. It was definitely done on 18th April 2010, by Theo Mooney, Ka Yuen, 2010.
  
 
'''Nanuk''' 16m HS 4b<br>
 
'''Nanuk''' 16m HS 4b<br>
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'''2 Boy Named Sue *''' VS (4b) 11m<br>
 
'''2 Boy Named Sue *''' VS (4b) 11m<br>
A tricky rising traverse, bold in places. Start at large block below obvious rounded flakes. Up block onto wall following flakes up and left to first ledge. Moving left on ledge, rock-over without hand holds onto sloping ledge (Crux). Move gingerly left on ledge to better protection. Up crack to overlap, traverse left, step across to mantle finish.<br>
+
''Carl Maddox 2009''<br>
Carl Maddox 2009
+
A tricky rising traverse, bold in places. Start at large block below obvious rounded flakes. Up block onto wall following flakes up and left to first ledge. Moving left on ledge, rock-over without hand holds onto sloping ledge (Crux). Move gingerly left on ledge to better protection. Up crack to overlap, traverse left, step across to mantle finish.
  
 
'''3 Slumdog Millionaire*''' VS (4c) 9m<br>
 
'''3 Slumdog Millionaire*''' VS (4c) 9m<br>
Start at obvious central crack, below undercut. Follow crack up to undercut, straight up crack in overhang to finish.<br>
+
''Paddy Gethings 2009''<br>
Paddy Gethings 2009
+
Start at obvious central crack, below undercut. Follow crack up to undercut, straight up crack in overhang to finish.
  
 
'''4 Poker Face*''' E1 (5b) 13m<br>
 
'''4 Poker Face*''' E1 (5b) 13m<br>
Follow Slumdog Millionaire to undercut, traverse right along the undercut. Below roof swing down and right on large jug to foot crack. Traverse right using finger-tip crack (crux) to welcome rest. Up right corner of Swing on a String to finish. Nice climbing.<br>
+
''Carl Maddox 2009''<br>
Carl Maddox 2009
+
Follow Slumdog Millionaire to undercut, traverse right along the undercut. Below roof swing down and right on large jug to foot crack. Traverse right using finger-tip crack (crux) to welcome rest. Up right corner of Swing on a String to finish. Nice climbing.
  
 
'''5 Swing on a String''' V Diff 7m<br>
 
'''5 Swing on a String''' V Diff 7m<br>
 +
''Paddy Gethings 2009''<br>
 
Obvious corner and blocks on right side of crag. Awkward<br>
 
Obvious corner and blocks on right side of crag. Awkward<br>
Paddy Gethings 2009
 
  
 
==Ivy wall – 10-12 metres==
 
==Ivy wall – 10-12 metres==
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'''1 Windy Miller''' Severe (4a) 18m<br>
 
'''1 Windy Miller''' Severe (4a) 18m<br>
 
''Carl Maddox 29/08/2004''<br>
 
''Carl Maddox 29/08/2004''<br>
Start on left side of crag below holly tree. Follow left trending ramp past holly tree to grass/ heather ledge. Follow obvious steepish flared cracks and grooves above (care wobbly block at 2/3 height) to Mantle shelf finish. Good protection.<br>
+
Start on left side of crag below holly tree. Follow left trending ramp past holly tree to grass/ heather ledge. Follow obvious steepish flared cracks and grooves above (care wobbly block at 2/3 height) to Mantle shelf finish. Good protection.
  
 
'''2 Top of the Tower**''' VS (4c) 20m<br>
 
'''2 Top of the Tower**''' VS (4c) 20m<br>
 
''Ben Siddal 29/08/2004''<br>
 
''Ben Siddal 29/08/2004''<br>
Start at main central crack, 2-3m right of Windy Miller, follow crack to thinner cracks until directly below heather ledge, mantle-shelf rightwards onto clean rock ledge. Traverse left on ledge for 2 meters, until below scooped ledge. Strenuous moves onto ledge, then follow thin groove line passing horizontal cracks near top. (Small cams useful) An excellent and varied route.<br>
+
Start at main central crack, 2-3m right of Windy Miller, follow crack to thinner cracks until directly below heather ledge, mantle-shelf rightwards onto clean rock ledge. Traverse left on ledge for 2 meters, until below scooped ledge. Strenuous moves onto ledge, then follow thin groove line passing horizontal cracks near top. (Small cams useful) An excellent and varied route.
  
 
'''3 Camelot **''' VS (4c) 18m<br>''Clare Wheatley, March 2012''<br>
 
'''3 Camelot **''' VS (4c) 18m<br>''Clare Wheatley, March 2012''<br>
Start 1 meter left of Top of the tower climb thin crack straight up to join Top of the Tower, onto large heather ledge. Climb directy up from ledge passing parallel cracks keeping left of Pheonix Nights. Small cams useful. Quality, varied climbing.<br>
+
Start 1 meter left of Top of the tower climb thin crack straight up to join Top of the Tower, onto large heather ledge. Climb directy up from ledge passing parallel cracks keeping left of Pheonix Nights. Small cams useful. Quality, varied climbing.
  
 
'''4 Smile the Fear''' E1 5b 18m<br>
 
'''4 Smile the Fear''' E1 5b 18m<br>
 
''Carl Maddox, Aug 2014''<br>
 
''Carl Maddox, Aug 2014''<br>
Start halfway between Top of the tower and Phoenix nights. Move under and right of bulge. Easier climbing to horizontal cracks. From second crack follow tiny crimps over bulge (crux). Move left to last 2m of Pheonix nights. <br>
+
Start halfway between Top of the tower and Phoenix nights. Move under and right of bulge. Easier climbing to horizontal cracks. From second crack follow tiny crimps over bulge (crux). Move left to last 2m of Pheonix nights.  
  
 
'''5 Pheonix Nights **''' HS (4b) 17m<br>
 
'''5 Pheonix Nights **''' HS (4b) 17m<br>
 
''Carl Maddox 2003''<br>
 
''Carl Maddox 2003''<br>
Start on right side of crag below small holly tree, which marks line of distinct left trending, seam/ cracks. Climb cracks past holly tree, then rising traverse left for 2-3 meters to ledge, follow central cracks to top. Steep, good holds, well protected, quite hard for the grade.<br>
+
Start on right side of crag below small holly tree, which marks line of distinct left trending, seam/ cracks. Climb cracks past holly tree, then rising traverse left for 2-3 meters to ledge, follow central cracks to top. Steep, good holds, well protected, quite hard for the grade.
  
 
'''6 Patella Jam *''' HS (4b) 18m<br>''Rikki Phillips, 2004''<br>
 
'''6 Patella Jam *''' HS (4b) 18m<br>''Rikki Phillips, 2004''<br>
Line 120: Line 121:
  
 
'''1 Great Craic **''' HVS (5b) 10m<br>
 
'''1 Great Craic **''' HVS (5b) 10m<br>
Takes the obvious crack on left side of crag, good finger jams and foot friction. Short but excellent test piece.<br>
+
''Carl Maddox 2003''<br>
Carl Maddox 2003
+
Takes the obvious crack on left side of crag, good finger jams and foot friction. Short but excellent test piece.
  
 
'''2 Tangy Cartoor *''' HS (4b) 10m<br>
 
'''2 Tangy Cartoor *''' HS (4b) 10m<br>
2a Bold start on slab following scoops past flake hold to small ledge. Traverse obvious, left trending cracks to top. Tricky with a good committment to smearing. <br>
+
2a Bold start on slab following scoops past flake hold to small ledge. Traverse obvious, left trending cracks to top. Tricky with a good committment to smearing.  
+
 
 
'''2 Surf Mayo *''' V Diff 10m<br>
 
'''2 Surf Mayo *''' V Diff 10m<br>
Good holds to triple cracks. Make committing moves to finish. High in Grade. <br>
+
''Carl Maddox Solo 2003''<br>
Carl Maddox Solo 2003
+
Good holds to triple cracks. Make committing moves to finish. High in Grade.  
  
 
'''3 The Tick Returns''' Severe (4a) 8m<br>
 
'''3 The Tick Returns''' Severe (4a) 8m<br>
Nice crack climb. Obvious easy-angled crack on right side of crag. Follow longest, widest hand/finger crack.<br>
+
Nice crack climb. Obvious easy-angled crack on right side of crag. Follow longest, widest hand/finger crack.
Carl Maddox 2004
+
 
 +
'''Bouldering'''
  
Bouldering
 
 
4 Five Finger Shuffle (5) 8m
 
4 Five Finger Shuffle (5) 8m
 
(Upper Wall) Obvious hard crack. Horizontal traverse 8m.<br>
 
(Upper Wall) Obvious hard crack. Horizontal traverse 8m.<br>
Line 149: Line 150:
  
 
'''1 Bush Fighting''' VDiff 20m<br>
 
'''1 Bush Fighting''' VDiff 20m<br>
Poor protection for grade. Start easy protruding slab. Traverse left past two big dubious blocks until vegetation stalls traverse. Up onto vegetation, aiming for (fai???). Unprotected groove, good holds to top.<br>
+
''Carl Maddox 2004''<br>
Carl Maddox 2004
+
Poor protection for grade. Start easy protruding slab. Traverse left past two big dubious blocks until vegetation stalls traverse. Up onto vegetation, aiming for (fai???). Unprotected groove, good holds to top.
  
 
'''2 Bag of Bollox''' Almost Ungradable S / HS (4a/b) 25m<br>
 
'''2 Bag of Bollox''' Almost Ungradable S / HS (4a/b) 25m<br>
Left side of crag, beneath huge overhanging block. Straight up vegetation under overhang. Pass wobbly silver bark tree, left at overhang and up ‘rock’ to finish. Weird!<br>
+
Left side of crag, beneath huge overhanging block. Straight up vegetation under overhang. Pass wobbly silver bark tree, left at overhang and up ‘rock’ to finish. Weird!
Carl Maddox 2004
 
  
 
'''3. Beautiful Mind''' HS (4b) 20m<br>
 
'''3. Beautiful Mind''' HS (4b) 20m<br>
 +
''Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky 2012''<br>
 
Take the obvious vertical crack and grooves , to the layback arete. Up this to make an awkward pass of the overlap, to giant flakes. Follow flakes taking care with the rock to finish easily.<br>
 
Take the obvious vertical crack and grooves , to the layback arete. Up this to make an awkward pass of the overlap, to giant flakes. Follow flakes taking care with the rock to finish easily.<br>
Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky 2012
 
  
 
'''4. Clems Route''' HS / VS (4b) 22m<br>
 
'''4. Clems Route''' HS / VS (4b) 22m<br>
Cleaned cracks to the left of Beautiful mind <br>
+
Cleaned cracks to the left of Beautiful mind  
 +
 
 +
'''Boulder above vegetated main wall'''
  
Boulder above vegetated main wall
 
 
First Boulder
 
First Boulder
Crack 1 (5a) Straight up
+
 
Crack 2 (5a) Hard traverse up<br>
+
Crack 1 (5a) Straight up
 +
Crack 2 (5a) Hard traverse up
 +
 
 
Second Boulder
 
Second Boulder
Crack and Arête (4c) 5m<br>
+
 
 +
Crack and Arête (4c) 5m
 +
 
 
Walk In Boulder
 
Walk In Boulder
Main overhang (5a)
+
 
L overhang wall (5c)
+
Main overhang (5a)
 +
 
 +
L overhang wall (5c)
  
 
==Tree Buttress – 30m==
 
==Tree Buttress – 30m==
  
 
'''1 Tree Trees *''' HS (4b) 18m<br>
 
'''1 Tree Trees *''' HS (4b) 18m<br>
Start left of trees, on flaky blocks. Cross (???) wall (very vegetated) to bulging wall. Hard move up to solid hand holds, topping out on slab to (????) belay below slab R2.<br>
+
''Ben Siddal 2004''<br>
Ben Siddal 2004
+
Start left of trees, on flaky blocks. Cross (???) wall (very vegetated) to bulging wall. Hard move up to solid hand holds, topping out on slab to (????) belay below slab R2.
  
 
'''2 Thirty Tree and a Third''' S (4a) 30m<br>
 
'''2 Thirty Tree and a Third''' S (4a) 30m<br>
Start between first and second tree, up detached block, move right on ledge to holly tree crack/corner. Up corner onto easy sloping crack. Right again up to slab above.<br>
+
''Carl Maddox 2004''<br>
Carl Maddox 2004
+
Start between first and second tree, up detached block, move right on ledge to holly tree crack/corner. Up corner onto easy sloping crack. Right again up to slab above.
  
'''Left variant S (4a) 30m'''<br>
+
'''Left variant S (4a) 30m<br>'''
Start just right of the left hand tree. Up slabby block to arête. Move up and left of arête on excellent holds. Follow right trending foot crack for 6m then left crack. Move easily up slabs to finish. Cams essential.<br>
+
''Carl Maddox 2004''
Carl Maddox 2004
+
<br>Start just right of the left hand tree. Up slabby block to arête. Move up and left of arête on excellent holds. Follow right trending foot crack for 6m then left crack. Move easily up slabs to finish. Cams essential.
  
''' Georgie Porgie * HS (4b) 30m'''<br>
+
'''Georgie Porgie * HS (4b) 30m'''<br>
Good climbing. Start as for Left Variant. Up blunt arête, tackle arête and right wall (small cams) tricky. (????) in a crouched position along crack to foothold just above steep wall (exposed). Up more easily on slabs.<br>
+
''Juraj Georgievsky 2008''<br>
Juraj Georgievsky 2008
+
Good climbing. Start as for Left Variant. Up blunt arête, tackle arête and right wall (small cams) tricky. (????) in a crouched position along crack to foothold just above steep wall (exposed). Up more easily on slabs.
  
 
==Rainbow Wall – 12-20m==
 
==Rainbow Wall – 12-20m==
Line 197: Line 204:
  
 
'''1 Geoffrey''' Diff 14m<br>
 
'''1 Geoffrey''' Diff 14m<br>
Right chimney/ Walls- Various lines at Diff/ V Diff on right side of crag.<br>
+
''C Maddox Solo 2003''<br>
C Maddox Solo 2003
+
Right chimney/ Walls- Various lines at Diff/ V Diff on right side of crag.
  
 
'''2 Gap of Rohan * ''' V Diff 17m<br>
 
'''2 Gap of Rohan * ''' V Diff 17m<br>
Left chimney, nice climbing <br>
+
''Rikki Phillips, Solo 2004''<br>
Rikki Phillips, Solo 2004
+
Left chimney, nice climbing
  
 
'''3 The Seeker ** ''' VS 4c 18m<br>
 
'''3 The Seeker ** ''' VS 4c 18m<br>
Takes the thin cracks and grooves just left of Gap of Rohan. Climb direct to cleaned crack and groove, up this to small foot ledges and second crack below vegetation. Move slightly right and summount next ledge (possibly crux) Follow crack to easier ground and top. Quality climbing <br>
+
''Carl Maddox / John Pierce 29/08/08''<br>
Carl Maddox / John Pierce 29/08/08
+
Takes the thin cracks and grooves just left of Gap of Rohan. Climb direct to cleaned crack and groove, up this to small foot ledges and second crack below vegetation. Move slightly right and summount next ledge (possibly crux) Follow crack to easier ground and top. Quality climbing  
  
 
'''3 Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly * ''' HS (4b) 20m<br>
 
'''3 Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly * ''' HS (4b) 20m<br>
Start 1-2m left of The Seeker, up to undercut groove trending slightly left, then directly up lightening cracks in wall, a hard move gains small foot ledges (crux) easier climbing to finish. Good protection at the mid-height crux.<br>
+
''Ben Siddal LP, 2004''<br>
Ben Siddal LP, 2004
+
Start 1-2m left of The Seeker, up to undercut groove trending slightly left, then directly up lightening cracks in wall, a hard move gains small foot ledges (crux) easier climbing to finish. Good protection at the mid-height crux.<br>'''Direct Start to Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly, VS4c <br>'''''Carl Maddox''
  
'''Direct Start to Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly, VS4c Carl Maddox <br>'''
 
 
Start left of undercut groove, straight up steep shallow cracks (tricky to protect) to join main crack at half height.
 
Start left of undercut groove, straight up steep shallow cracks (tricky to protect) to join main crack at half height.
  
 
'''4 Zippy * ''' VDiff 20m<br>
 
'''4 Zippy * ''' VDiff 20m<br>
Up obvious L/R crack to large 'scoop'. Traverse slightly left at 5m. Thin crack and smaller scoops to top. Good climbing.<br>
+
''Carl Maddox LP''<br>
Carl Maddox LP
+
Up obvious L/R crack to large 'scoop'. Traverse slightly left at 5m. Thin crack and smaller scoops to top. Good climbing.
  
 
'''5 Bungle ''' S (4a) 18m<br>
 
'''5 Bungle ''' S (4a) 18m<br>
Start 1-2m left of Zippy. Follow shallow scoops in wall to short steep crack at mid height. Up crack (crux)easier finish.<br>
+
''Carl Maddox 2004''<br>
Carl Maddox 2004
+
Start 1-2m left of Zippy. Follow shallow scoops in wall to short steep crack at mid height. Up crack (crux)easier finish.
  
Moving left from Bungle, a vegetated section leads to a distinct red rib right trending  
+
Moving left from Bungle, a vegetated section leads to a distinct red rib right trending
  
 
'''6 Red Rib ''' VD 18m<br>
 
'''6 Red Rib ''' VD 18m<br>
Follow Rib throughout, Poor protection.<br>
+
''Rikki Philips LP, 2004''<br>
Rikki Philips LP, 2004
+
Follow Rib throughout, Poor protection.
  
Just left of Red Rib is a fairly large overhang, a smaller overhang/ overlap left again gives,  
+
''Just left of Red Rib is a fairly large overhang, a smaller overhang/ overlap left again gives,''
  
 
'''7 George''' S (4a) 18m<br>
 
'''7 George''' S (4a) 18m<br>
Up to small overhang pull over this and scramble to top.<br>
+
''Carl Maddox, Solo. 2004''<br>
Carl Maddox, Solo. 2004
+
Up to small overhang pull over this and scramble to top.
  
Left of George several short lines, with positive holds from Diff-V Diff can be explored at will.
+
''Left of George several short lines, with positive holds from Diff-V Diff can be explored at will.''
  
To the right of Sect more brittle and protection poor. we did one route here  
+
''To the right of Sect more brittle and protection poor. we did one route here''
  
 
==Excellence Promised area, Far Right Crags==
 
==Excellence Promised area, Far Right Crags==
Line 247: Line 253:
  
 
'''2 Grasshopper Ridge *''' VD 40m<br>
 
'''2 Grasshopper Ridge *''' VD 40m<br>
A good little climb. Spi??? Up with the odd dubious block. Something a bit different to the main walls.<br>
+
''M Dixon / C Maddox.''<br>
M Dixon / C Maddox.
+
A good little climb. Spi??? Up with the odd dubious block. Something a bit different to the main walls.
  
or B there is another clean piece of rock, probably 15-20m high. The rock here is
+
''or B there is another clean piece of rock, probably 15-20m high. The rock here is''

Latest revision as of 15:00, 24 March 2021

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Sector B

Please Note: The Crags at Tangincartoor, are on Private Land, Climbers are requested not to climb without permission of landowners.

The Irish name for Tangincartoor is Teanga an Chartúir

Marcin Ostzas and myself did some climbs here in July 2009. Looking up from the valley there are 3 climbable looking sections. The centre one B appears to be the cleanest and the photos below show some routes on it. It is about 15-17m high at the highest point and slabby granite with good protection, known to geologists as the Corvock Granite. Friction is excellent.

RTENOTITLE
Tangincartoor Section B (not as slabby as it looks)

Maneater is between 4 and 5 on Sector B

Maneater 20m VS 4b
Joe Lyons, Dermot Wall, 2002
The wide chimney on the right of the crag is reached by climbing easily up the blocks at its base. Bridge up between the walls, keeping out to pass the overhang at the top.


RTENOTITLE
Tangincartoor Section B showing angle of rock

Sector C

To the right of Sector B there is another clean piece of rock, probably 15-20m high. The rock here is more brittle and protection poor. We did one route here

RTENOTITLE
Sector C

Sector D

Further down the hill there is another clean steep area.

RTENOTITLE
Sector D

Sector A

to the north of sector B a lovely bit of rock is found.

RTENOTITLE

Only one climb has been made known to me in this area, it is at the left of the above photo, starting below a boulder sitting on top in a slanting crack. I believe it was first done by Orla Prendergast. It was definitely done on 18th April 2010, by Theo Mooney, Ka Yuen, 2010.

Nanuk 16m HS 4b

RTENOTITLE

many new routes are to be done here.

Slumdog Buttress (Far Left) – 9-13m

A small, clean section of rocks with a range of quality, surprisingly good routes. This crag is found to the left of Ivy wall

1 Deception S/HS (4a) 9m
Paddy Gethings 2009
Start on left of crag, 1m right of Boy Named Sue. Traverse in leftwards on blocks. Into and up corner groove. Tricky move at 2/3m height.

2 Boy Named Sue * VS (4b) 11m
Carl Maddox 2009
A tricky rising traverse, bold in places. Start at large block below obvious rounded flakes. Up block onto wall following flakes up and left to first ledge. Moving left on ledge, rock-over without hand holds onto sloping ledge (Crux). Move gingerly left on ledge to better protection. Up crack to overlap, traverse left, step across to mantle finish.

3 Slumdog Millionaire* VS (4c) 9m
Paddy Gethings 2009
Start at obvious central crack, below undercut. Follow crack up to undercut, straight up crack in overhang to finish.

4 Poker Face* E1 (5b) 13m
Carl Maddox 2009
Follow Slumdog Millionaire to undercut, traverse right along the undercut. Below roof swing down and right on large jug to foot crack. Traverse right using finger-tip crack (crux) to welcome rest. Up right corner of Swing on a String to finish. Nice climbing.

5 Swing on a String V Diff 7m
Paddy Gethings 2009
Obvious corner and blocks on right side of crag. Awkward

Ivy wall – 10-12 metres

A short steep crag to the left of main wall. Offering steep, clean and well protected crack climbing. Characterised by three steep crack lines to left of Ivy, and featuring long horizontal breaks high on the wall.

1 Jammie Dodger* HS (4b) 10m
Ben Siddal 2004
Danger loose blocks. Take's the obvious left hand crack, through small overlaps, onto recently cleared ledge! Well protected and sustained.

2 Street Fighter** VS (5a) 10m
Carl Maddox 2004
The steep central finger crack. Follow crack on good solid finger locks to excellent holds/ rests in horizontal breaks. Climb/ jam the overhang V-groove (crux) to finish. A short excellent route.

3 Jack Flash * HS (4b)10m
Carl Maddox 2004
Follow third obvious L/R angled crack to wide jamming/ layback crack finish.

4 Waitext VDiff12m
Carl Maddox Solo. 2002
Start at beneath right chimney / blocky groove. Up to grass ledge, chimney and ledges to top. Awkward

5 Phoenix Rising *** HVS (5a) 23m
Carl Maddox, Maurice J Dixon
A great climb, start as for Waitex, climb to the highest, horizontal crack. Traverse the high horizontal cracks of Ivy wall.Traverse cracks towards remaining Ivy, crux section just before Ivy was originally aided by pulling on two cams, but after clearing has now been climbed clean. Find hidden foot holds in Ivy and continue sustained traverse across upper wall to finish at the end of crag/ cracks.

Central Crag, Main Wall – 15-20 metres

Routes described left to right

1 Windy Miller Severe (4a) 18m
Carl Maddox 29/08/2004
Start on left side of crag below holly tree. Follow left trending ramp past holly tree to grass/ heather ledge. Follow obvious steepish flared cracks and grooves above (care wobbly block at 2/3 height) to Mantle shelf finish. Good protection.

2 Top of the Tower** VS (4c) 20m
Ben Siddal 29/08/2004
Start at main central crack, 2-3m right of Windy Miller, follow crack to thinner cracks until directly below heather ledge, mantle-shelf rightwards onto clean rock ledge. Traverse left on ledge for 2 meters, until below scooped ledge. Strenuous moves onto ledge, then follow thin groove line passing horizontal cracks near top. (Small cams useful) An excellent and varied route.

3 Camelot ** VS (4c) 18m
Clare Wheatley, March 2012
Start 1 meter left of Top of the tower climb thin crack straight up to join Top of the Tower, onto large heather ledge. Climb directy up from ledge passing parallel cracks keeping left of Pheonix Nights. Small cams useful. Quality, varied climbing.

4 Smile the Fear E1 5b 18m
Carl Maddox, Aug 2014
Start halfway between Top of the tower and Phoenix nights. Move under and right of bulge. Easier climbing to horizontal cracks. From second crack follow tiny crimps over bulge (crux). Move left to last 2m of Pheonix nights.

5 Pheonix Nights ** HS (4b) 17m
Carl Maddox 2003
Start on right side of crag below small holly tree, which marks line of distinct left trending, seam/ cracks. Climb cracks past holly tree, then rising traverse left for 2-3 meters to ledge, follow central cracks to top. Steep, good holds, well protected, quite hard for the grade.

6 Patella Jam * HS (4b) 18m
Rikki Phillips, 2004
Start as for Pheonix nights. Climb to the small holly tree where a tricky traverse rightwards, leads to rock and grass sloping ledge below overhang. Trend up and rightwards below overhangs to steep hanging Apex, pull through this (crux)and up through second slot to finish. Interesting climbing.

High Crag – 8-10 metres

Small slabby crag found just above and left of main wall

1 Great Craic ** HVS (5b) 10m
Carl Maddox 2003
Takes the obvious crack on left side of crag, good finger jams and foot friction. Short but excellent test piece.

2 Tangy Cartoor * HS (4b) 10m
2a Bold start on slab following scoops past flake hold to small ledge. Traverse obvious, left trending cracks to top. Tricky with a good committment to smearing.

2 Surf Mayo * V Diff 10m
Carl Maddox Solo 2003
Good holds to triple cracks. Make committing moves to finish. High in Grade.

3 The Tick Returns Severe (4a) 8m
Nice crack climb. Obvious easy-angled crack on right side of crag. Follow longest, widest hand/finger crack.

Bouldering

4 Five Finger Shuffle (5) 8m (Upper Wall) Obvious hard crack. Horizontal traverse 8m.
5 Green Cross (3) 4m (Lower Wall) Obvious off-width crack. (?????) boulder.
6 (5+) 2m in from left edge of wall. Small, slopped holds, tricky for feet. Fell several times.
7 (6a) 3m left of above. Superb crimp climbing. Sloped top. Excellent.

Main Wall – Right vegetated Crag 20m

Very vegetated in parts, new routes require some gardening. The cleaned lines offer very good crack and corner climbing with some Good potential for hard slab climbing

1 Bush Fighting VDiff 20m
Carl Maddox 2004
Poor protection for grade. Start easy protruding slab. Traverse left past two big dubious blocks until vegetation stalls traverse. Up onto vegetation, aiming for (fai???). Unprotected groove, good holds to top.

2 Bag of Bollox Almost Ungradable S / HS (4a/b) 25m
Left side of crag, beneath huge overhanging block. Straight up vegetation under overhang. Pass wobbly silver bark tree, left at overhang and up ‘rock’ to finish. Weird!

3. Beautiful Mind HS (4b) 20m
Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky 2012
Take the obvious vertical crack and grooves , to the layback arete. Up this to make an awkward pass of the overlap, to giant flakes. Follow flakes taking care with the rock to finish easily.

4. Clems Route HS / VS (4b) 22m
Cleaned cracks to the left of Beautiful mind

Boulder above vegetated main wall

First Boulder

Crack 1 (5a) Straight up Crack 2 (5a) Hard traverse up

Second Boulder

Crack and Arête (4c) 5m

Walk In Boulder

Main overhang (5a)

L overhang wall (5c)

Tree Buttress – 30m

1 Tree Trees * HS (4b) 18m
Ben Siddal 2004
Start left of trees, on flaky blocks. Cross (???) wall (very vegetated) to bulging wall. Hard move up to solid hand holds, topping out on slab to (????) belay below slab R2.

2 Thirty Tree and a Third S (4a) 30m
Carl Maddox 2004
Start between first and second tree, up detached block, move right on ledge to holly tree crack/corner. Up corner onto easy sloping crack. Right again up to slab above.

Left variant S (4a) 30m
Carl Maddox 2004
Start just right of the left hand tree. Up slabby block to arête. Move up and left of arête on excellent holds. Follow right trending foot crack for 6m then left crack. Move easily up slabs to finish. Cams essential.

Georgie Porgie * HS (4b) 30m
Juraj Georgievsky 2008
Good climbing. Start as for Left Variant. Up blunt arête, tackle arête and right wall (small cams) tricky. (????) in a crouched position along crack to foothold just above steep wall (exposed). Up more easily on slabs.

Rainbow Wall – 12-20m

A slabby crag, characterised by two obvious wide chimney's on right of crag, which are clearly visible from the road Routes described right to left

1 Geoffrey Diff 14m
C Maddox Solo 2003
Right chimney/ Walls- Various lines at Diff/ V Diff on right side of crag.

2 Gap of Rohan * V Diff 17m
Rikki Phillips, Solo 2004
Left chimney, nice climbing

3 The Seeker ** VS 4c 18m
Carl Maddox / John Pierce 29/08/08
Takes the thin cracks and grooves just left of Gap of Rohan. Climb direct to cleaned crack and groove, up this to small foot ledges and second crack below vegetation. Move slightly right and summount next ledge (possibly crux) Follow crack to easier ground and top. Quality climbing

3 Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly * HS (4b) 20m
Ben Siddal LP, 2004
Start 1-2m left of The Seeker, up to undercut groove trending slightly left, then directly up lightening cracks in wall, a hard move gains small foot ledges (crux) easier climbing to finish. Good protection at the mid-height crux.
Direct Start to Pysgod Wibbly Wobbly, VS4c
Carl Maddox

Start left of undercut groove, straight up steep shallow cracks (tricky to protect) to join main crack at half height.

4 Zippy * VDiff 20m
Carl Maddox LP
Up obvious L/R crack to large 'scoop'. Traverse slightly left at 5m. Thin crack and smaller scoops to top. Good climbing.

5 Bungle S (4a) 18m
Carl Maddox 2004
Start 1-2m left of Zippy. Follow shallow scoops in wall to short steep crack at mid height. Up crack (crux)easier finish.

Moving left from Bungle, a vegetated section leads to a distinct red rib right trending

6 Red Rib VD 18m
Rikki Philips LP, 2004
Follow Rib throughout, Poor protection.

Just left of Red Rib is a fairly large overhang, a smaller overhang/ overlap left again gives,

7 George S (4a) 18m
Carl Maddox, Solo. 2004
Up to small overhang pull over this and scramble to top.

Left of George several short lines, with positive holds from Diff-V Diff can be explored at will.

To the right of Sect more brittle and protection poor. we did one route here

Excellence Promised area, Far Right Crags

Continue past small parking bay with gate to far right end of crag section. Park in bay / track. Cross river to green, triangular field.

1 Excellence Promised VS (4c) 15m
Start at left end of crag. (????) Obvious large scoop, climb line just left of overhangs to vegetated corner. Up this, messy to top. (Potential if cleaned)

2 Grasshopper Ridge * VD 40m
M Dixon / C Maddox.
A good little climb. Spi??? Up with the odd dubious block. Something a bit different to the main walls.

or B there is another clean piece of rock, probably 15-20m high. The rock here is