Strabane Glen

From Irish Climbing Wiki
Revision as of 14:32, 11 March 2021 by Daveh (talk | contribs) (Created page with "'''This information is taken from New Climbs 1979.<'''br> This crag is situated about one mile on the Reservoir side of Strabane. 800px '''Green...")
(diff) ← Older revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff)

This information is taken from New Climbs 1979.<br>

This crag is situated about one mile on the Reservoir side of Strabane.

Strabane glen.jpg

Green Grave 55ft. HS
Takes the obvious route up to the right of the prominent corner on the left-hand corner.
Start: huge stone blocking entrance to the ledge on the left-hand side.
1/. 40ft. V. Diff. Step up off stone onto small ledge. Move up on good holds for 30 ft. Traverse left to belay awkwardly on small ledge.
2/. 15 ft. HS. Traverse right to ledge (escape possible at this point). Climb out over right-hand side of overhang (delicate) to top. Tree belay.
S. McCrory, E. Breslin. 2nd Oct. 1978.

Temptation 50 ft. V. Diff
Start: below overhanging bulge. Trend left up face to corner. Step into corner and continue to top.
J. Rotheram, June 1979.

Drunken Duck 50 ft. V. Diff.
Start; as for 'Temptation'. Move left avoiding corner at 30 ft. and finish to top.
S. McCrory, E. Breslin. June 1979.

The following climbs are taken from New Climbs 1980.

Rigor Mortis 18m HS
Left of 'Green Grave' is a shallow cave know locally as "Lundy's Cave" which is climbed out of, right-wards, to a small ledge. Moving left-wards again negotiate overhang and corner to large grassy ledge and belay. Climb crack behind ledge past tree and proceed to top on progressively smaller holds.
A. Tees, R. Smith. 14th Oct 1979.

Lundy's Last Laugh 33m S.
Below and left of "Lundy's Cave" is a large alcove with prominent overhangs to its R.
Start: at the back of the alcove and climb up on small holds until forced right (awkward) to base of wall flanked on its right-hand side by an obvious chimney.
Climb left-hand edge of wall moving left-wards past blackened stump into overhanging corner above large ledge. Climb Corner.
C. Wray, A. Tees (alternate leads), R. Wray. 23rd Nov. 1980.

Highwayman 12m V. Diff.
Start: about 5 m. left of 'Lundy's Last Laugh' and directly below stump mentioned in same.
Climb up on good holds until forced left along fault to the "Exit".
A. Tees, R. Wray. 27th Dec. 1980.

Stumpeesbrae 12m Diff.
5m left of 'Highwayman' is a recessed corner which is climbed from a platform.
R. Wray, A. Tees. 21st Jan 1981.

Above the central overhangs mentioned in 'Lundy's Last Laugh' there is a large grassy balcony from which three easy climbs emanate.

Strabanshee 9m V. Diff.
Towards the left-hand side of the balcony is a wide crack which is climbed easily after strenuous initial pull up. On reaching ledge with tree move right and climb to top beside 'Strabanjo'.
A. Tees. 21st Jan 1981.

Strabanjo 9m. Diff.
This is the right-angled chimney right of 'Strabanshee'.
A. Tees, C. Wray 23rd. Nov. 1980.

Strabandit 9m. Diff.
Right of Strabanjo' is a prominent wide corner, which is climbed.
A. Tees. 22nd. Dec. 1980.