Difference between revisions of "Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point"

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Situated on the west shore of the Mullaghmore peninsula, Co. Sligo, and in sight of Classie Bawn Castle, (Grid Ref. 686562, Sheet 16, Sligo, Leitrim, Fermanagh, Donegal).<br>
 
Situated on the west shore of the Mullaghmore peninsula, Co. Sligo, and in sight of Classie Bawn Castle, (Grid Ref. 686562, Sheet 16, Sligo, Leitrim, Fermanagh, Donegal).<br>
 
(Also known as Rosskeeragh Point)
 
(Also known as Rosskeeragh Point)
 
  
 
Approach on the road to Mullaghmore. Before reaching the village take the left turn at the castle gate lodge. Park on the roadside at the first sight of the sea at a little junction.
 
Approach on the road to Mullaghmore. Before reaching the village take the left turn at the castle gate lodge. Park on the roadside at the first sight of the sea at a little junction.
 
  
 
Even though the normal route along the coast is a Right of Way, the landowner has in recent years objected to climbers using this route. Conflict has been avoided by accessing the crag via a more southerly route through the community playing fields and along the beach to the south of the headland.
 
Even though the normal route along the coast is a Right of Way, the landowner has in recent years objected to climbers using this route. Conflict has been avoided by accessing the crag via a more southerly route through the community playing fields and along the beach to the south of the headland.
 
  
 
The rock is solid sandstone giving excellent steep and short routes.
 
The rock is solid sandstone giving excellent steep and short routes.
Line 14: Line 11:
  
 
'''1. GROUND ATTACK''' *** 16m VS 4b<br>
 
'''1. GROUND ATTACK''' *** 16m VS 4b<br>
R.Finlay, P.Hall 8th August 1982<br>
+
''R.Finlay, P.Hall 8th August 1982''<br>
 
Right of the shattered section of cliff follow the obvious long crack over several overhangs on the nose.
 
Right of the shattered section of cliff follow the obvious long crack over several overhangs on the nose.
 
  
 
'''2. NOW A VETERAN''' *** 12m VD<br>
 
'''2. NOW A VETERAN''' *** 12m VD<br>
G.McCann, P.Chatterley 8th August 1982<br>
+
''G.McCann, P.Chatterley 8th August 1982''<br>
 
2m right of Ground Attack climb ledges trending left to exit.
 
2m right of Ground Attack climb ledges trending left to exit.
 
  
 
'''3. DOWNWARD THRUST''' * 12m S 4a<br>
 
'''3. DOWNWARD THRUST''' * 12m S 4a<br>
P.Hall, R.Finlay 8th August 1982<br>
+
''P.Hall, R.Finlay 8th August 1982''<br>
 
Between Now A Veteran and Downward Thrust climb a crack to a ledge and move delicately and directly to a dubious exit.
 
Between Now A Veteran and Downward Thrust climb a crack to a ledge and move delicately and directly to a dubious exit.
 
  
 
'''4. VERTICAL TAKEOFF''' * 12m VS 4c<br>
 
'''4. VERTICAL TAKEOFF''' * 12m VS 4c<br>
R.Finlay, P.Hall 1982<br>
+
''R.Finlay, P.Hall 1982''<br>
 
Start on a large smooth flat rock below a big overhang. Swing up dynamically on the point of the overhang on fingerholds. Gain ledges on the left and trend right to nose and exit.
 
Start on a large smooth flat rock below a big overhang. Swing up dynamically on the point of the overhang on fingerholds. Gain ledges on the left and trend right to nose and exit.
 
  
 
'''5. FISH WITH BOOTS''' 12m HVS 5a<br>
 
'''5. FISH WITH BOOTS''' 12m HVS 5a<br>
Allsop, Walls 1991
+
''Allsop, Walls 1991''
 
 
  
 
'''6. SHORT AND CURLEY''' 12m E1 5c<br>
 
'''6. SHORT AND CURLEY''' 12m E1 5c<br>
R.Allsop, J.Walls 28th July 1990<br>
+
''R.Allsop, J.Walls 28th July 1990''<br>
 
Start around the corner from undercut arête of Vertical Takeoff at a large box recess. Using small holds climb directly from the middle of the box to reach a good hold above on the right (crux). Surmount overhang and follow crack above more easily. Finish rightwards with care.
 
Start around the corner from undercut arête of Vertical Takeoff at a large box recess. Using small holds climb directly from the middle of the box to reach a good hold above on the right (crux). Surmount overhang and follow crack above more easily. Finish rightwards with care.
 
  
 
'''7. FYF''' 12m S 3c<br>
 
'''7. FYF''' 12m S 3c<br>
P.Grant and Gortatole party 3rd April 1983<br>
+
''P.Grant and Gortatole party 3rd April 1983''<br>
 
Start right of Vertical Take-Off and 3m right of box recess. Climb obvious weakness leftwards.
 
Start right of Vertical Take-Off and 3m right of box recess. Climb obvious weakness leftwards.
 
  
 
'''8. LEGS IN SPACE''' VS 4c<br>
 
'''8. LEGS IN SPACE''' VS 4c<br>
J.Flanagan, P.Daly<br>
+
''J.Flanagan, P.Daly''<br>
 
Takes groove and overhang 1m right of FYF. Move right at overhang then trend right.
 
Takes groove and overhang 1m right of FYF. Move right at overhang then trend right.
 
  
 
'''9. SHEFFIELD''' * 12m S 4a<br>
 
'''9. SHEFFIELD''' * 12m S 4a<br>
P.Hall 30th May 1982<br>
+
''P.Hall 30th May 1982''<br>
 
This route takes the black corner before a small zawn. Climb the corner to a slightly overhanging and loose-looking but stable blocks to top.
 
This route takes the black corner before a small zawn. Climb the corner to a slightly overhanging and loose-looking but stable blocks to top.
 
  
 
'''10. BLOW INS''' 12m VS 4b<br>
 
'''10. BLOW INS''' 12m VS 4b<br>
P.Daly, J.Flanagan<br>
+
''P.Daly, J.Flanagan''<br>
 
Takes the arête and short groove between Sheffield and Ardent.
 
Takes the arête and short groove between Sheffield and Ardent.
 
  
 
'''11. SHOCKWAVE''' 10m VD<br>
 
'''11. SHOCKWAVE''' 10m VD<br>
P.Hall, J.Stewart 18th June 1982<br>
+
''P.Hall, J.Stewart 18th June 1982''<br>
 
Start just left of Ardent outside the zawn. Climb the obvious lightning crack on overhanging blocks to a platform (direct is 4a). Trend left to exit.
 
Start just left of Ardent outside the zawn. Climb the obvious lightning crack on overhanging blocks to a platform (direct is 4a). Trend left to exit.
 
  
 
'''12. ARDENT+F82''' ** 12m S 4a<br>
 
'''12. ARDENT+F82''' ** 12m S 4a<br>
P.Hall, J.Stewart 13th June 1982<br>
+
''P.Hall, J.Stewart 13th June 1982''<br>
 
Move into the zawn 4m right of Sheffield and climb the finger crack above steps. Climb to widening crack and platform.
 
Move into the zawn 4m right of Sheffield and climb the finger crack above steps. Climb to widening crack and platform.
 
  
 
'''13. HAUGHEY'S HANDBAG''' 12m VD<br>
 
'''13. HAUGHEY'S HANDBAG''' 12m VD<br>
D.Hall. 1982<br>
+
''D.Hall. 1982''<br>
 
Start outside the zawn face 3m right of Ardent. Pull up onto the nose and climb obvious steps to platform.
 
Start outside the zawn face 3m right of Ardent. Pull up onto the nose and climb obvious steps to platform.
 
  
 
'''14. GO FOR IT''' 10m VD<br>
 
'''14. GO FOR IT''' 10m VD<br>
P.Grant, G.Burns, J.Keeney 3rd April 1983<br>
+
''P.Grant, G.Burns, J.Keeney 3rd April 1983''<br>
 
Start 2m right of Haughey's Handbag around nose. Climb obvious broken wall trending left.
 
Start 2m right of Haughey's Handbag around nose. Climb obvious broken wall trending left.
 
  
 
'''15. STRAY EXOCETS''' *** 12m S 4a<br>
 
'''15. STRAY EXOCETS''' *** 12m S 4a<br>
P.Hall, J.Stewart 13th June 1982<br>
+
''P.Hall, J.Stewart 13th June 1982''<br>
 
1m from outside nose climb a small crack to a small platform and flakes to the top.
 
1m from outside nose climb a small crack to a small platform and flakes to the top.
  
 
+
'''16. SIDEWINDER''' *** 12m VS 4b<br>
'''16. SIDEWINDER''' *** 12m VS 4b
+
''P.Hall, R.Finlay 18th July 1982''<br>
P.Hall, R.Finlay 18th July 1982
 
 
Start 2m right of the Stray Excocet's nose. Climb the first obvious crack to an overhanging block. Hand traverse left and up the crack to finish.
 
Start 2m right of the Stray Excocet's nose. Climb the first obvious crack to an overhanging block. Hand traverse left and up the crack to finish.
 
  
 
'''17. CEASEFIRE''' * 10m S 3c<br>
 
'''17. CEASEFIRE''' * 10m S 3c<br>
R.Finlay, G.McCaron 7th August 1983<br>
+
''R.Finlay, G.McCaron 7th August 1983''<br>
 
Start 2m right of Sidewinder. Climb groove to gain block then traverse left almost joining Sidewinder. Exit up an obvious small steep corner.
 
Start 2m right of Sidewinder. Climb groove to gain block then traverse left almost joining Sidewinder. Exit up an obvious small steep corner.
 
  
 
'''18. GRINGO''' * 8m VS 4b<br>
 
'''18. GRINGO''' * 8m VS 4b<br>
A.Currans, M.Cox 7th August 1983<br>
+
''A.Currans, M.Cox 7th August 1983''<br>
 
Just right of Ceasefire.
 
Just right of Ceasefire.
 
  
 
'''19. BATTLE OF THE PLATE''' ** 8m VS 4c<br>
 
'''19. BATTLE OF THE PLATE''' ** 8m VS 4c<br>
A.Currans, M.Cox 7th August 1983<br>
+
''A.Currans, M.Cox 7th August 1983''<br>
 
Just right of Gringo.
 
Just right of Gringo.
 
  
 
'''20. PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE''' * 10m S 3c<br>
 
'''20. PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE''' * 10m S 3c<br>
A.Currans, M.Mace, C.Cassidy, K.McConnel, J.Hamilton 3rd April '83<br>
+
''A.Currans, M.Mace, C.Cassidy, K.McConnel, J.Hamilton 3rd April '83''<br>
 
Start 4m left of Bomb Alley. Climb obvious rounded flake steps to thin exit on upper wall.
 
Start 4m left of Bomb Alley. Climb obvious rounded flake steps to thin exit on upper wall.
 
  
 
'''21. BOMB ALLEY''' ** 10m S 3c<br>
 
'''21. BOMB ALLEY''' ** 10m S 3c<br>
P.Hall, D.Hall 11th September 1982<br>
+
''P.Hall, D.Hall 11th September 1982''<br>
 
Climb directly up crack at cleft in wall at boulders.
 
Climb directly up crack at cleft in wall at boulders.
 
  
 
'''22. STONE RUN''' *** 8m HVS 5a<br>
 
'''22. STONE RUN''' *** 8m HVS 5a<br>
A.Currans, M.Smith 7th August 1983<br>
+
''A.Currans, M.Smith 7th August 1983''<br>
 
Right of Bomb Alley below overhang.
 
Right of Bomb Alley below overhang.
 
  
 
'''23. TEAL INLET''' 9m VD<br>
 
'''23. TEAL INLET''' 9m VD<br>
P.Hall, J.Stewart 13th June 1982<br>
+
''P.Hall, J.Stewart 13th June 1982''<br>
 
Obvious corner past large boulders, climb to overhanging block, pull up corner crack to platform and exit easily.
 
Obvious corner past large boulders, climb to overhanging block, pull up corner crack to platform and exit easily.
 
  
 
'''24. ANTELOPE''' ** 12m VD<br>
 
'''24. ANTELOPE''' ** 12m VD<br>
D.Hall 13th June 1982<br>
+
''D.Hall 13th June 1982''<br>
 
Climb the next corner right of Teal Inlet via steps and traverse left across platform to a vertical corner and exit vertically.
 
Climb the next corner right of Teal Inlet via steps and traverse left across platform to a vertical corner and exit vertically.
 
  
 
'''25. SHELL SHOCK''' *** 12m VD<br>
 
'''25. SHELL SHOCK''' *** 12m VD<br>
A.Currans, G.McCann 11th September 1982<br>
+
''A.Currans, G.McCann 11th September 1982''<br>
 
Start at Antelope and climb the vertical crack more directly.
 
Start at Antelope and climb the vertical crack more directly.
 
  
 
'''26. THE ROSE ARÊTE''' ** VS 4b<br>
 
'''26. THE ROSE ARÊTE''' ** VS 4b<br>
T.Fogg, K.Quinn 1983<br>
+
''T.Fogg, K.Quinn 1983''<br>
 
Takes the arête just beside and left of Airstrike.
 
Takes the arête just beside and left of Airstrike.
 
  
 
'''27. AIR STRIKE''' *** 12m S 4a<br>
 
'''27. AIR STRIKE''' *** 12m S 4a<br>
R.Finlay, P.Hall 18th July 1982<br>
+
''R.Finlay, P.Hall 18th July 1982''<br>
 
Start at the nose right of Antelope and 1m left of a zawn.Climb the widest crack. Start at an overhanging block and then climb the obvious crack above.
 
Start at the nose right of Antelope and 1m left of a zawn.Climb the widest crack. Start at an overhanging block and then climb the obvious crack above.
 
  
 
'''28. ABJECT SURRENDER''' 12m VD<br>
 
'''28. ABJECT SURRENDER''' 12m VD<br>
R.Finlay, D.Seaman 1983<br>
+
''R.Finlay, D.Seaman 1983''<br>
 
A poor attempt at climbing the arête left of Swing Wing. At the major difficulties step left and climb the loose wall first trending left then right to the top of arête.
 
A poor attempt at climbing the arête left of Swing Wing. At the major difficulties step left and climb the loose wall first trending left then right to the top of arête.
 
  
 
'''29. SWING WING''' *** 12m VD<br>
 
'''29. SWING WING''' *** 12m VD<br>
P.Chatterley, G.McCann 8th August 1982<br>
+
''P.Chatterley, G.McCann 8th August 1982''<br>
 
Climb easily in obvious corner 3 m right of deep zawn slot.
 
Climb easily in obvious corner 3 m right of deep zawn slot.
 
  
 
'''30. WING TIP''' VD<br>
 
'''30. WING TIP''' VD<br>
R.Finlay, S.Semple, J.Monaghan 18th July 1983<br>
+
''R.Finlay, S.Semple, J.Monaghan 18th July 1983''<br>
 
Takes the arête right of Swing Wing.
 
Takes the arête right of Swing Wing.
 
  
 
'''MALVENAS''' * 10m S 4a<br>
 
'''MALVENAS''' * 10m S 4a<br>
M.Smith, A.Devlin 7th August 1983<br>
+
''M.Smith, A.Devlin 7th August 1983''<br>
 
5m left of Overshoot. Start below a small corner on overhanging rock. Crux at the top of the corner.
 
5m left of Overshoot. Start below a small corner on overhanging rock. Crux at the top of the corner.
 
  
 
'''CLOWN'S SMILE''' 10m VS 4b<br>
 
'''CLOWN'S SMILE''' 10m VS 4b<br>
P.Nolan, R.Finlay, A.Currans 1984
+
''P.Nolan, R.Finlay, A.Currans 1984''<br>
 
Climb to the large overhang. Bridge widely and pull into corner. Up corner and finish as for First Landing.
 
Climb to the large overhang. Bridge widely and pull into corner. Up corner and finish as for First Landing.
 
  
 
'''OVERSHOOT''' ** 10m VD<br>
 
'''OVERSHOOT''' ** 10m VD<br>
P.Hall, S.Hall 12th April 1982<br>
+
''P.Hall, S.Hall 12th April 1982''<br>
 
Start at the second corner 12 m right of Swing Wing. Pull up on overlaps to platform and exit vertically.
 
Start at the second corner 12 m right of Swing Wing. Pull up on overlaps to platform and exit vertically.
 
  
 
'''FIRST LANDING''' ** 12m VD<br>
 
'''FIRST LANDING''' ** 12m VD<br>
P.Chatterley, G.McCann 8th August 1982<br>
+
''P.Chatterley, G.McCann 8th August 1982''<br>
 
Climb through the overlaps, next corner right of Overshoot and left of Beach Head.
 
Climb through the overlaps, next corner right of Overshoot and left of Beach Head.
 
  
 
'''BEACH HEAD''' *** 12m S 3c<br>
 
'''BEACH HEAD''' *** 12m S 3c<br>
P.Chatterley, G.McCann 1982<br>
+
''P.Chatterley, G.McCann 1982''<br>
 
Climb directly up the corner with an overhanging block right of First Landing.
 
Climb directly up the corner with an overhanging block right of First Landing.
 
  
 
'''BLUFF COVE+F106''' ** 8m VD<br>
 
'''BLUFF COVE+F106''' ** 8m VD<br>
P.Chatterley, P.Nolan, E.Clarke, D.Coffey 10th April 1982<br>
+
''P.Chatterley, P.Nolan, E.Clarke, D.Coffey 10th April 1982''<br>
 
Just right of Beach Head.
 
Just right of Beach Head.
  
 
'''SEA KING'''<br>
 
'''SEA KING'''<br>
S.Hall, P.Hall 12th April 1982
+
''S.Hall, P.Hall 12th April 1982''<br>
 
At an overhanging nose climb to platform and obvious crack.
 
At an overhanging nose climb to platform and obvious crack.
 
  
 
'''VELMA''' * VS 5a<br>
 
'''VELMA''' * VS 5a<br>
T.Fogg 10th April 1983<br>
+
''T.Fogg 10th April 1983''<br>
 
To the right of Beach Head and Bluff Cove at the nose. Hand traverse to nose and swing up. Continue easily to top.
 
To the right of Beach Head and Bluff Cove at the nose. Hand traverse to nose and swing up. Continue easily to top.
 
  
 
'''SPLASH LANDING''' * 10m D<br>
 
'''SPLASH LANDING''' * 10m D<br>
B.Gilmer, K.Ratcliffe. 11th September 1982<br>
+
''B.Gilmer, K.Ratcliffe. 11th September 1982''<br>
 
Start at the first corner at overhanging ledge and pool. Climb around the pool and up the black corner crack.
 
Start at the first corner at overhanging ledge and pool. Climb around the pool and up the black corner crack.
 
  
 
'''GO HOME GALTIERI''' ** 10m VD<br>
 
'''GO HOME GALTIERI''' ** 10m VD<br>
R.Finlay, S.Semple, J.Monaghan 10th July 1983<br>
+
''R.Finlay, S.Semple, J.Monaghan 10th July 1983''<br>
 
Takes first corner right of Splash Landing.
 
Takes first corner right of Splash Landing.
 
  
 
'''ON A WING AND A PRAYER''' 10m VD<br>
 
'''ON A WING AND A PRAYER''' 10m VD<br>
D.Cross, B.Gilmer 18th July 1983<br>
+
''D.Cross, B.Gilmer 18th July 1983''<br>
 
Right of Go Home Galtieri below left side of box recess, climb onto obvious ledge into recess. Climb wall to easy ground on top to finish.
 
Right of Go Home Galtieri below left side of box recess, climb onto obvious ledge into recess. Climb wall to easy ground on top to finish.
 
  
 
'''ARGIE BARGIE''' 10m VD<br>
 
'''ARGIE BARGIE''' 10m VD<br>
R.Finlay,S.Semple, J.Monaghan 18th July 1983<br>
+
''R.Finlay,S.Semple, J.Monaghan 18th July 1983''<br>
 
Start 5m right of On A Wing And A Prayer. Climb the opposite corner of the recess. Awkward.
 
Start 5m right of On A Wing And A Prayer. Climb the opposite corner of the recess. Awkward.
 
  
 
'''ELEVATOR LEVITATOR''' ** 10m S 3c<br>
 
'''ELEVATOR LEVITATOR''' ** 10m S 3c<br>
P.Hall, D.Hall 11th September 1982<br>
+
''P.Hall, D.Hall 11th September 1982''<br>
 
Start right of overhanging ledge and pool at box recess. Climb first crack through small over-hanging block to exit.
 
Start right of overhanging ledge and pool at box recess. Climb first crack through small over-hanging block to exit.
 
  
 
'''WHY DO YOU CALL THIS ONE PORKY?''' 10m VD<br>
 
'''WHY DO YOU CALL THIS ONE PORKY?''' 10m VD<br>
B.Gilmer, D.Cross 18th July 1983<br>
+
''B.Gilmer, D.Cross 18th July 1983''<br>
 
Start just right of Elevator Levitator in box recess. Climb right-hand corner to ledge, then straight up wall. Good protection.
 
Start just right of Elevator Levitator in box recess. Climb right-hand corner to ledge, then straight up wall. Good protection.
 
  
 
'''ARGENTINIAN EXTREME''' ** 7m D<br>
 
'''ARGENTINIAN EXTREME''' ** 7m D<br>
B. Gilmer 11th September 1982<br>
+
''B. Gilmer 11th September 1982''<br>
 
Next rectangular recess right of Elevator Levitator. Climb directly.
 
Next rectangular recess right of Elevator Levitator. Climb directly.
 
  
 
'''TUMBLEDOWN DARE''' ** 7m VD<br>
 
'''TUMBLEDOWN DARE''' ** 7m VD<br>
B.Gilmer 11th September 1982<br>
+
''B.Gilmer 11th September 1982''<br>
 
Climb directly the first corner at bridge-zawn.
 
Climb directly the first corner at bridge-zawn.
 
  
 
'''BRIDGE HEAD+F73''' * 7m D<br>
 
'''BRIDGE HEAD+F73''' * 7m D<br>
T.Fogg, R.Finlay and Party 10th April 1983<br>
+
''T.Fogg, R.Finlay and Party 10th April 1983''<br>
 
Climb the bridged zawn just right of Tumbledown Dare either on the outside or on the inside.
 
Climb the bridged zawn just right of Tumbledown Dare either on the outside or on the inside.
 
  
 
'''BECAUSE IT _____ PIGS''' 7m S 4a<br>
 
'''BECAUSE IT _____ PIGS''' 7m S 4a<br>
D.Cross, B.Gilmer<br>
+
''D.Cross, B.Gilmer''<br>
 
Start in box recess just right of the descent. Takes the right corner. Climb up overhang using good holds and right hand wall (crux). Follow crack to finish.
 
Start in box recess just right of the descent. Takes the right corner. Climb up overhang using good holds and right hand wall (crux). Follow crack to finish.
 
  
 
'''MERRY SEAMAN''' 7m VD<br>
 
'''MERRY SEAMAN''' 7m VD<br>
R.Finlay, D.Seaman<br>
+
''R.Finlay, D.Seaman''<br>
 
Start on the wall 6m left of Diversionary Tatics. Climb an obvious black corner beside the equally obvious flake.
 
Start on the wall 6m left of Diversionary Tatics. Climb an obvious black corner beside the equally obvious flake.
 
  
 
'''PLEASURE DOME''' 7m VS 4b<br>
 
'''PLEASURE DOME''' 7m VS 4b<br>
I.Gracy, E.Nolan 14 June 1986<br>
+
''I.Gracy, E.Nolan 14 June 1986''<br>
 
Start at the left edge of the boulder of Combined Forces. Take a direct line up a thin crack to the top of the crag.
 
Start at the left edge of the boulder of Combined Forces. Take a direct line up a thin crack to the top of the crag.
 
  
 
'''COMBINED FORCES''' 7m VS 4c<br>
 
'''COMBINED FORCES''' 7m VS 4c<br>
R.Patterson, P.Hall, R.Finlay 14 June 1986<br>
+
''R.Patterson, P.Hall, R.Finlay 14 June 1986''<br>
 
A few metres right of Merry Seamen. Start at a large black block. The route is a direct line from the boulder to a small overhang at the top of the crag.
 
A few metres right of Merry Seamen. Start at a large black block. The route is a direct line from the boulder to a small overhang at the top of the crag.
 
  
 
'''DIVERSIONARY TACTICS''' 7m VD<br>
 
'''DIVERSIONARY TACTICS''' 7m VD<br>
R.Finlay, D.Seaman<br>
+
''R.Finlay, D.Seaman''<br>
 
Climbs the obvious arête left of Direct Assault.
 
Climbs the obvious arête left of Direct Assault.
 
  
 
'''DIRECT ASSAULT''' 7m VD<br>
 
'''DIRECT ASSAULT''' 7m VD<br>
R.Finlay, D.Seaman<br>
+
''R.Finlay, D.Seaman''<br>
 
Climb the obvious crack line of prominent nose.
 
Climb the obvious crack line of prominent nose.
 
  
 
'''LEFT MANOEUVRE''' 7m D<br>
 
'''LEFT MANOEUVRE''' 7m D<br>
P.Chatterley, P.Nolan 10th April 1983<br>
+
''P.Chatterley, P.Nolan 10th April 1983''<br>
 
In the recess right of Direct Assault.
 
In the recess right of Direct Assault.
 
  
 
'''FLANKING MOVEMENT''' ** 7m VD<br>
 
'''FLANKING MOVEMENT''' ** 7m VD<br>
R.Finlay, D.Seaman 25th August 1983<br>
+
''R.Finlay, D.Seaman 25th August 1983''<br>
 
Takes the wall right of Left Manoeuvre 2m right of a prominent nose. Climb into obvious squared corner of Left Manoeuvre then step right onto wall moving rightwards and up.
 
Takes the wall right of Left Manoeuvre 2m right of a prominent nose. Climb into obvious squared corner of Left Manoeuvre then step right onto wall moving rightwards and up.
 
  
 
'''MID AIR MANOEUVRE''' * 7m D<br>
 
'''MID AIR MANOEUVRE''' * 7m D<br>
R.Finlay, P.Chatterley 10th April 1983<br>
+
''R.Finlay, P.Chatterley 10th April 1983''<br>
 
The line just right of Flanking Movement.
 
The line just right of Flanking Movement.
 
  
 
'''RIGHT MANOEUVRE''' ** 7m VD<br>
 
'''RIGHT MANOEUVRE''' ** 7m VD<br>
P. Chatterley 1982<br>
+
''P. Chatterley 1982''
 
 
  
 
'''WAR WEARY AMNESIA''' * 7m VD<br>
 
'''WAR WEARY AMNESIA''' * 7m VD<br>
A.Currans, M.Mace, C.Cassidy, K.McConnel, J.Hamilton 3rd April '83<br>
+
''A.Currans, M.Mace, C.Cassidy, K.McConnel, J.Hamilton 3rd April '83''<br>
 
Start on the right side of tower left of Lynx. Climb awkward line to gain obvious deep split.
 
Start on the right side of tower left of Lynx. Climb awkward line to gain obvious deep split.
 
  
 
'''OOPS KNEES AND JAMS IT EASY''' * 7m VD<br>
 
'''OOPS KNEES AND JAMS IT EASY''' * 7m VD<br>
R.Finlay and Gortatole Party 18th June 1983<br>
+
''R.Finlay and Gortatole Party 18th June 1983''<br>
 
Start just left of Funny Funnel. Gain ledge and climb the obvious crack with the jammed flake.
 
Start just left of Funny Funnel. Gain ledge and climb the obvious crack with the jammed flake.
 
  
 
'''FUNNY FUNNEL''' 7m D<br>
 
'''FUNNY FUNNEL''' 7m D<br>
R.Finlay<br>
+
''R.Finlay''<br>
 
Start just left of Introductory Slither. Climb the chimney direct.
 
Start just left of Introductory Slither. Climb the chimney direct.
 
  
 
'''INTRODUCTORY SLITHER''' 10m D<br>
 
'''INTRODUCTORY SLITHER''' 10m D<br>
R.Finlay + five<br>
+
''R.Finlay + five''<br>
 
Just left of Lynx, climb the obvious arête to the top up a series of high steps.
 
Just left of Lynx, climb the obvious arête to the top up a series of high steps.
 
  
 
'''LYNX''' *** 10m D<br>
 
'''LYNX''' *** 10m D<br>
G.McCann, P.Chatterley 8th August 1982<br>
+
''G.McCann, P.Chatterley 8th August 1982''<br>
 
Climb the square-cut corner. Awkward at top.
 
Climb the square-cut corner. Awkward at top.
 
  
 
'''PUMA''' * 10m D<br>
 
'''PUMA''' * 10m D<br>
P. Chatterley, G. McCann, D. Hall. 8th August 1982<br>
+
''P. Chatterley, G. McCann, D. Hall. 8th August 1982''<br>
 
Bridge wide chimney to roof and continue directly to the top.
 
Bridge wide chimney to roof and continue directly to the top.

Latest revision as of 20:36, 24 March 2021

Situated on the west shore of the Mullaghmore peninsula, Co. Sligo, and in sight of Classie Bawn Castle, (Grid Ref. 686562, Sheet 16, Sligo, Leitrim, Fermanagh, Donegal).
(Also known as Rosskeeragh Point)

Approach on the road to Mullaghmore. Before reaching the village take the left turn at the castle gate lodge. Park on the roadside at the first sight of the sea at a little junction.

Even though the normal route along the coast is a Right of Way, the landowner has in recent years objected to climbers using this route. Conflict has been avoided by accessing the crag via a more southerly route through the community playing fields and along the beach to the south of the headland.

The rock is solid sandstone giving excellent steep and short routes.

Mullaghmore 2.jpg

1. GROUND ATTACK *** 16m VS 4b
R.Finlay, P.Hall 8th August 1982
Right of the shattered section of cliff follow the obvious long crack over several overhangs on the nose.

2. NOW A VETERAN *** 12m VD
G.McCann, P.Chatterley 8th August 1982
2m right of Ground Attack climb ledges trending left to exit.

3. DOWNWARD THRUST * 12m S 4a
P.Hall, R.Finlay 8th August 1982
Between Now A Veteran and Downward Thrust climb a crack to a ledge and move delicately and directly to a dubious exit.

4. VERTICAL TAKEOFF * 12m VS 4c
R.Finlay, P.Hall 1982
Start on a large smooth flat rock below a big overhang. Swing up dynamically on the point of the overhang on fingerholds. Gain ledges on the left and trend right to nose and exit.

5. FISH WITH BOOTS 12m HVS 5a
Allsop, Walls 1991

6. SHORT AND CURLEY 12m E1 5c
R.Allsop, J.Walls 28th July 1990
Start around the corner from undercut arête of Vertical Takeoff at a large box recess. Using small holds climb directly from the middle of the box to reach a good hold above on the right (crux). Surmount overhang and follow crack above more easily. Finish rightwards with care.

7. FYF 12m S 3c
P.Grant and Gortatole party 3rd April 1983
Start right of Vertical Take-Off and 3m right of box recess. Climb obvious weakness leftwards.

8. LEGS IN SPACE VS 4c
J.Flanagan, P.Daly
Takes groove and overhang 1m right of FYF. Move right at overhang then trend right.

9. SHEFFIELD * 12m S 4a
P.Hall 30th May 1982
This route takes the black corner before a small zawn. Climb the corner to a slightly overhanging and loose-looking but stable blocks to top.

10. BLOW INS 12m VS 4b
P.Daly, J.Flanagan
Takes the arête and short groove between Sheffield and Ardent.

11. SHOCKWAVE 10m VD
P.Hall, J.Stewart 18th June 1982
Start just left of Ardent outside the zawn. Climb the obvious lightning crack on overhanging blocks to a platform (direct is 4a). Trend left to exit.

12. ARDENT+F82 ** 12m S 4a
P.Hall, J.Stewart 13th June 1982
Move into the zawn 4m right of Sheffield and climb the finger crack above steps. Climb to widening crack and platform.

13. HAUGHEY'S HANDBAG 12m VD
D.Hall. 1982
Start outside the zawn face 3m right of Ardent. Pull up onto the nose and climb obvious steps to platform.

14. GO FOR IT 10m VD
P.Grant, G.Burns, J.Keeney 3rd April 1983
Start 2m right of Haughey's Handbag around nose. Climb obvious broken wall trending left.

15. STRAY EXOCETS *** 12m S 4a
P.Hall, J.Stewart 13th June 1982
1m from outside nose climb a small crack to a small platform and flakes to the top.

16. SIDEWINDER *** 12m VS 4b
P.Hall, R.Finlay 18th July 1982
Start 2m right of the Stray Excocet's nose. Climb the first obvious crack to an overhanging block. Hand traverse left and up the crack to finish.

17. CEASEFIRE * 10m S 3c
R.Finlay, G.McCaron 7th August 1983
Start 2m right of Sidewinder. Climb groove to gain block then traverse left almost joining Sidewinder. Exit up an obvious small steep corner.

18. GRINGO * 8m VS 4b
A.Currans, M.Cox 7th August 1983
Just right of Ceasefire.

19. BATTLE OF THE PLATE ** 8m VS 4c
A.Currans, M.Cox 7th August 1983
Just right of Gringo.

20. PSYCHOLOGICAL WARFARE * 10m S 3c
A.Currans, M.Mace, C.Cassidy, K.McConnel, J.Hamilton 3rd April '83
Start 4m left of Bomb Alley. Climb obvious rounded flake steps to thin exit on upper wall.

21. BOMB ALLEY ** 10m S 3c
P.Hall, D.Hall 11th September 1982
Climb directly up crack at cleft in wall at boulders.

22. STONE RUN *** 8m HVS 5a
A.Currans, M.Smith 7th August 1983
Right of Bomb Alley below overhang.

23. TEAL INLET 9m VD
P.Hall, J.Stewart 13th June 1982
Obvious corner past large boulders, climb to overhanging block, pull up corner crack to platform and exit easily.

24. ANTELOPE ** 12m VD
D.Hall 13th June 1982
Climb the next corner right of Teal Inlet via steps and traverse left across platform to a vertical corner and exit vertically.

25. SHELL SHOCK *** 12m VD
A.Currans, G.McCann 11th September 1982
Start at Antelope and climb the vertical crack more directly.

26. THE ROSE ARÊTE ** VS 4b
T.Fogg, K.Quinn 1983
Takes the arête just beside and left of Airstrike.

27. AIR STRIKE *** 12m S 4a
R.Finlay, P.Hall 18th July 1982
Start at the nose right of Antelope and 1m left of a zawn.Climb the widest crack. Start at an overhanging block and then climb the obvious crack above.

28. ABJECT SURRENDER 12m VD
R.Finlay, D.Seaman 1983
A poor attempt at climbing the arête left of Swing Wing. At the major difficulties step left and climb the loose wall first trending left then right to the top of arête.

29. SWING WING *** 12m VD
P.Chatterley, G.McCann 8th August 1982
Climb easily in obvious corner 3 m right of deep zawn slot.

30. WING TIP VD
R.Finlay, S.Semple, J.Monaghan 18th July 1983
Takes the arête right of Swing Wing.

MALVENAS * 10m S 4a
M.Smith, A.Devlin 7th August 1983
5m left of Overshoot. Start below a small corner on overhanging rock. Crux at the top of the corner.

CLOWN'S SMILE 10m VS 4b
P.Nolan, R.Finlay, A.Currans 1984
Climb to the large overhang. Bridge widely and pull into corner. Up corner and finish as for First Landing.

OVERSHOOT ** 10m VD
P.Hall, S.Hall 12th April 1982
Start at the second corner 12 m right of Swing Wing. Pull up on overlaps to platform and exit vertically.

FIRST LANDING ** 12m VD
P.Chatterley, G.McCann 8th August 1982
Climb through the overlaps, next corner right of Overshoot and left of Beach Head.

BEACH HEAD *** 12m S 3c
P.Chatterley, G.McCann 1982
Climb directly up the corner with an overhanging block right of First Landing.

BLUFF COVE+F106 ** 8m VD
P.Chatterley, P.Nolan, E.Clarke, D.Coffey 10th April 1982
Just right of Beach Head.

SEA KING
S.Hall, P.Hall 12th April 1982
At an overhanging nose climb to platform and obvious crack.

VELMA * VS 5a
T.Fogg 10th April 1983
To the right of Beach Head and Bluff Cove at the nose. Hand traverse to nose and swing up. Continue easily to top.

SPLASH LANDING * 10m D
B.Gilmer, K.Ratcliffe. 11th September 1982
Start at the first corner at overhanging ledge and pool. Climb around the pool and up the black corner crack.

GO HOME GALTIERI ** 10m VD
R.Finlay, S.Semple, J.Monaghan 10th July 1983
Takes first corner right of Splash Landing.

ON A WING AND A PRAYER 10m VD
D.Cross, B.Gilmer 18th July 1983
Right of Go Home Galtieri below left side of box recess, climb onto obvious ledge into recess. Climb wall to easy ground on top to finish.

ARGIE BARGIE 10m VD
R.Finlay,S.Semple, J.Monaghan 18th July 1983
Start 5m right of On A Wing And A Prayer. Climb the opposite corner of the recess. Awkward.

ELEVATOR LEVITATOR ** 10m S 3c
P.Hall, D.Hall 11th September 1982
Start right of overhanging ledge and pool at box recess. Climb first crack through small over-hanging block to exit.

WHY DO YOU CALL THIS ONE PORKY? 10m VD
B.Gilmer, D.Cross 18th July 1983
Start just right of Elevator Levitator in box recess. Climb right-hand corner to ledge, then straight up wall. Good protection.

ARGENTINIAN EXTREME ** 7m D
B. Gilmer 11th September 1982
Next rectangular recess right of Elevator Levitator. Climb directly.

TUMBLEDOWN DARE ** 7m VD
B.Gilmer 11th September 1982
Climb directly the first corner at bridge-zawn.

BRIDGE HEAD+F73 * 7m D
T.Fogg, R.Finlay and Party 10th April 1983
Climb the bridged zawn just right of Tumbledown Dare either on the outside or on the inside.

BECAUSE IT _____ PIGS 7m S 4a
D.Cross, B.Gilmer
Start in box recess just right of the descent. Takes the right corner. Climb up overhang using good holds and right hand wall (crux). Follow crack to finish.

MERRY SEAMAN 7m VD
R.Finlay, D.Seaman
Start on the wall 6m left of Diversionary Tatics. Climb an obvious black corner beside the equally obvious flake.

PLEASURE DOME 7m VS 4b
I.Gracy, E.Nolan 14 June 1986
Start at the left edge of the boulder of Combined Forces. Take a direct line up a thin crack to the top of the crag.

COMBINED FORCES 7m VS 4c
R.Patterson, P.Hall, R.Finlay 14 June 1986
A few metres right of Merry Seamen. Start at a large black block. The route is a direct line from the boulder to a small overhang at the top of the crag.

DIVERSIONARY TACTICS 7m VD
R.Finlay, D.Seaman
Climbs the obvious arête left of Direct Assault.

DIRECT ASSAULT 7m VD
R.Finlay, D.Seaman
Climb the obvious crack line of prominent nose.

LEFT MANOEUVRE 7m D
P.Chatterley, P.Nolan 10th April 1983
In the recess right of Direct Assault.

FLANKING MOVEMENT ** 7m VD
R.Finlay, D.Seaman 25th August 1983
Takes the wall right of Left Manoeuvre 2m right of a prominent nose. Climb into obvious squared corner of Left Manoeuvre then step right onto wall moving rightwards and up.

MID AIR MANOEUVRE * 7m D
R.Finlay, P.Chatterley 10th April 1983
The line just right of Flanking Movement.

RIGHT MANOEUVRE ** 7m VD
P. Chatterley 1982

WAR WEARY AMNESIA * 7m VD
A.Currans, M.Mace, C.Cassidy, K.McConnel, J.Hamilton 3rd April '83
Start on the right side of tower left of Lynx. Climb awkward line to gain obvious deep split.

OOPS KNEES AND JAMS IT EASY * 7m VD
R.Finlay and Gortatole Party 18th June 1983
Start just left of Funny Funnel. Gain ledge and climb the obvious crack with the jammed flake.

FUNNY FUNNEL 7m D
R.Finlay
Start just left of Introductory Slither. Climb the chimney direct.

INTRODUCTORY SLITHER 10m D
R.Finlay + five
Just left of Lynx, climb the obvious arête to the top up a series of high steps.

LYNX *** 10m D
G.McCann, P.Chatterley 8th August 1982
Climb the square-cut corner. Awkward at top.

PUMA * 10m D
P. Chatterley, G. McCann, D. Hall. 8th August 1982
Bridge wide chimney to roof and continue directly to the top.